the amount of hydraulic oil leaking from the cooler has increased to the point that i have to fix it. The old man that owns the radiator shop says he has done hundreds of them without a problem. couple of questions 1. is there a way to minimize the amount of fluid that drains? 2. once i get the cooler back on , and refill the fluid, do i need to bleed out the air? 3. anything i might need to know that i dont?
also, does someone know the other "makes" that are the same as the case 9030b?
my initial plan was to buy some expansion plugs to stop the flow of oil once i take off the cooler, but on second thought i dont think i will be able to work quickly enough taking off and putting it on to save the fluid, instead i am going to park it with the boom and the resevoir tank down hill, cooler facing up hill and just collect what i can. my biggest question is: do i have to bleed the air off once i refill?, i am guessing no since that would mean i would have to crack open the connections on the boom and stick? maybe just keep hitting the valve to release air at the resevoir?
if you have access to power and a shop vac you can put enough suction in the reservoir to prevent draining the oil. It has been discussed on here before and perhaps a search can turn something up. I was skeptical at first but have done it with amazing results.
wow, never thought of that, just seal off at the resevoir, run the shop vac while unhooking/hooking up to avoid "spillage" and seal off inbetween? or can you pull a vacuum that holds it while i get the cooler repaired? i searched for the past thread on this, but didnt find it, thanks a LOT for this information
The 9030b was probably built by Sumitomo as was Link-Belt and others.I ran a 9020 for a while and like the other Sumitomo machines it was a very nice excavator. I am getting old and my memory is not what it was but this should give you a start.Ron G
Well we have done it and it works. Perhaps someone else can post a link to the thread? Just make a good connection so the vacuum hose doesn't come off during the procedure. Would recommend getting some caps for hoses while cooler is disconnected.
i wonder if i could just depress the pressure valve on the resevoir tank and attach vac to it?
Wherever you fill the the hydraulic tank is where you can connect the vac. If it's a big fill hole that's bolted down with a large cap you can make a cover out of plywood, use the original cover as a template for the holes to bolt it down and use a hole saw to cut the right size hole for the vac line. I had to do this on my Kobelco and it worked great.
9030B has a bolted on filler cap. It's ridiculous, but that's what they have. Not sure how you would go about putting a vacuum on it. I would just get some caps/plugs (whatever-keep in mind they might be metric) and screw them after you get the lines disconnected. You're going to lose a little oil, but really shouldn't be more than a quart.
thanks, it hasnt rained for most of the summer, but has been raining for 3 days straight, i am heading down with a tarp and tools to take it off this morning. yes it is a bolt on cap, i dont understand that design, but i guess once i get the leaking stopped it wont be as big a problem. thanks for all your help, I hope it goes as smoothly as it seems.
dangit, knew it couldnt be that easy...took it to repair shop and they cant find the hole, they said they can only put 50 psi in it...any ideas???
what amount of pressure builds up in these?
They might have to hot tank it. It might only leak when it's hot? Just a thought. I have no idea how much pressure, maybe a couple hundred??
i cant seem to find anybody around here who deals with oil coolers, the radiator repair guy said that if i can find the leak he can fix it...i guess i have to put it back on and trim back the fins where i see it getting moist while it is running...i thought about using dye but not sure that will give me an exact spot...i can see the area it is leaking in already. i have really been thinking about the amount of pressure, since it is on the suction side, i cant imagine there being "to much" pressure, i see it as more a heat thing like you said shimmy1. i dont know the temperature of fluid either, but i know the flash point is around 400F for iso46, so i doubt it gets above 200F normally and probably far less, i guess normal is around 150-180F...so if i could get boiling water to test it in...i think still easier to put back on and test.
Is there any possibility that one of the cooler hoses could be leaking and giving the impression that the cooler core is the source of the leak..?
I planned on changing out both donut gaskets at the pipe coupler along with replacing the O rings at the 2 connectors...the donut gasket coupler was a little loose...but when i checked the leak just after i turned it off it was leaking form the bottom of the cooler, i guess it is possible that it sprayed from the coupler..hmmmm, which is just in front of where it was moist and maybe the fan pulled it in...i will feel pretty stupid if that was the case.
If that is the case you won't be the first person who's been caught out that way and you certainly won't be the last....... Back to the radiator repair shop. If they put 50psi in the core and it's not leaking I'd be fairly certain it's not the core where your leak is coming from. Normally cooler circuits run at about 20-35psi, so if it's not leaking at 50, well you get my drift .............
that is great to hear that 50 lbs should have shown the leak!!! i hope putting new gaskets and retightening will do it.
IMO 50psi should show the leak, but I'm not familiar with this particular model so I won't guarantee that.
Whenever I break the seal on a pressurized hydraulic system I seem to detect very little pressure.It seems like a positive pressure of 5 or 6 pounds,just enough to insure that the oil feeds the pump and the system does not starve the pump etc.in any way.That would be on hot system.Ron G
update on the oil cooler..so i changed out all the gaskets and O rings, put everything back in, turn it on, and within 30 seconds it is leaking from the cooler...UGGGGHH!!!, well at least I dont feel stupid about it being a simple fitting, and i have gathered that it doesnt need to be hot tanked...I cant believe that there was any amount of pressure built up...i couldnt see the leak, but i do know it is in the bottom 3 flues and bottom corner...since a new aftermarket will cost $2k, i guess i better find the leak...any tips on doing this?, i plan on just cutting out the fins in the 6 inchx 6 inch area, cleaning it with some degreaser and just watching as it is started up.
quick update, took the cooler back off after finding the general location of the leak, took it back to the same radiator shop and he found 3 small leaks all on the same tube...weird that it didnt show up the first time...but glad that it is fixed and back up and running...i havent run it for more than 30 minutes just to check the leak...hope that once it heats up it will stay leak free...thanks for everyones help
well the cooler has been working great, until yesterday, noticed a few drips after i turned it off and then saw the wet spot on the fins...typically does the cooler just keep on needing to be repaired...should i just breakdown and start looking for a new cooler? it looks like i might be able to get one from alibaba for under $1000, or give the repair another shot?