Well guys I finally picked up a backhoe. After looking at the Case 680 and a John Deere, I got a Ford 4500. She's somewhere between a 65 and a 75. Its a 3 cyl diesel 201 I think. The loader is in good shape, the hoe is not too bad and the bucket and pins are worn beyond belief. She starts very hard when cold but after its warmed she'll start all right. The transmission is a 4 speed w/shuttle shift and dif lock. I just changed the trans fluid yesterday because I noticed white milk coming up out of the trans when warm. It was like runny mayonaise. I replaced the filter as well. The ford/NH mechanic I talked to at the dealership suggested that I flush the trans out with diesel but he said that running it to long like that may hurt the seals. I figured for an extra 100 or 2 I would be better off using hyd oil and changing it 2 or 3 times to get the water out. The Hyd oil in the loader frame looks good so it must be seperate system. I also have to check the diff fluid and see if its white as well. I also did the power steering fluid, it takes hyd oil but the guy I got it from was using power steering fluid and its like black paint. She doesnt steer too well. I bought the ps filter and will flush it again with hyd oil and put in the new filter. I also did engine oil and fliter, hyd filter (front), air filter (inner and outer) and a couple tubes of grease. I got the diesel fuel filter but didnt change that yet because I dont know how to bleed the lines. I dont have a repair manual yet and cant seem to find a good source for them. I like to look at something before I buy it. I also cant fine the serial tag on the tractor. I found the loader tag and the hoe tag. One of the next thing Id like to do is get some of the diesel leaks fixed. The injector pump and some of the lines are weeping drips here and there. The result is working the tractor in a bath of diesel fumes and smoke :Banghead So its not a new hoe by any stretch but the price was right and hopefully it'll do me right :notworthy
manuals Glad to hear that you got your hoe, and she was cheap... Looks like she might have been well used but not worn out. Here is a link to a company that sells reprodustion manuals. Basically they are high quality copies of the originals. I've bought several different manuals for different equipment from them and I've been pleased. If you need parts info, it can be accessed online thru a new holland construction dealer or thru new hollands usa home page. http://www.jensales.com/Product_List.aspx?model=4500&make=FORD&cat=manuals
Got one project done! I got one culvert in today, pretty happy about that She ran good. The first set of pics came out better than the second. I'll take some more tomorrow :usa Hey Stumpjumper, thanks for that. I'll give them a call tues. It figures the one I want is on backorder or special order or something. Some stuff I need to fix on the machine 1) oil pressure gauge 2) hook up altenator 3) hook up preheater glow plug flame thing :beatsme 4) fix leaky injector lines 5) continue changing oils until mayonaise is out of transmission 6) Hook up aux power for maybe lights :notworthy 7) get power steering to work again seems doable and not too expensive. Its not like I'm going to dump thousands into this old beast, it just needs some lovin
Serial # & date of manufacture Hi Brenainn, You can find the serial # and DOM etc on a decal on the inside of the engine hood! The unit number should give you the date of assembly and read something like the following: 3H12B Explanation: 3 means 1973, H means August (8th letter in alphabet = 8th month), 12 means 12th day of month, B means second shift in work day. You will also find the same type of numbers for engine, transmission, rearend, hydraulic system (in tractor, not loader or hoe). You should be able to find the serial # stamped into the top left mounting pad on the front of the bell housing (I think). Hope that this helps! I'm just up the road a ways (New Boston, NH).:usa Dave
More problems and pics Hi Shetland Sheepd, thanks for that. I looked inside the cowl but the tag is gone oh well. When I was a kid my mom ran the horse shows up in New Boston at the fairgrounds. Thats a real nice town! I did some more diggin today and the hoe swing seems looser than it was yesterday. I has a couple feet of play side to side when extended fully, not good :beatsme Is there an adjustment I can make on that? Here is a pic of my altenator any idea how to hook it up to charge the battery? Here is a piece I found that was loose on top of the valve cover. I'm assuming this is part of the diesel warming system or electrical parts? Any help is appreciated guys :thumbsup
Hi Brenainn, The piece that you found appears to be the remains of your voltage regulator! it looks like it burned up in an electrical fire, which would explain the lack of wiring! It also appears that what you have there isn't an alternator but a Lucas generator, which is standard on that vintage tractor. I don't have expertise on the wiring diagram, so I'm not able to help you there without further research. As for the glow plug (located at the front end of the intake manifold) there should be one wire coming directly from the key switch to the plug. There is a spade on the back of the switch that is dedicated to this function. Again, I don't have a diagram at my disposal right now, but I can gain access to this information in a day or two if someone else doesn't come up with info in the mean time.:beatsme You will also notice a place to attach the drive end of the cable that drives your tachometer. that is on the outer end of the Lucas generator. The information decal may have also been destroyed by an engine compartment fire, or the hood panel may have been replaced at some point. The decal would have been in the middle of the under side of the hood panel that opens (right side of the tractor) Just a little bit about me: My forum handle is Shetland Sheepdog (it wouldn't all fit in the login!) My name is Dave. I'll try to get a PM to you with more info. Let me know how you make out. Aha! now I see why you can't find the decal! The hood panel is missing!! Dave
Hey Dave, I do have the hood panel, I took it off to start cleaning the motor, figure out where my oil leaks, diesel leaks, exhaust leaks and get a look at her. The blackness you see in the pics I believe is from exhaust leaking. Between the diesel, oil and exhaust everything is coated with black grime including the radiator Tonight I got the boom swing slack fixed and also greased the u joints on the hyd pump. I'm looking at engine heaters now and was wondering what kind the folks here like the best. The 4 ive seen so far are the in hose block heater, in the freeze plug heater, a magnetic stick on heater and a fuel warmer. I'm thinking the in hose heater but not sue yet :beatsme I got to get my wiring figured out. Another thing I want to do for winter is take off the hoe and make a counter weight out of a barrel some rebar and concrete. Anyone ever do this? How hard is it to take off the hoe? What is the procedure? Thanks for the help, B
Your Boom swing I found out on my 550 that I have a cylinder leaking past the seals on the boom swing. I can do a quick fix by unhooking the hose that goes between the two cylinders. This gets rid of the extra hydraulic oil that builds up over time. Looks like for me to be able to fix it right I have to drop the unit to get the cylinders out. I have not figured out the best way to do this yet and not in that big of a rush as I do not use the hole that much. If you go to the new holland construction site you can do a search for parts. They has all the parts manuals online. I use it to see how things like wiring and other things are layed out.
forgot one thing I forgot to add. With your swing boom chain getting loose like that. You might want to make sure that you have your boom chained so that it can not move side to side when you are traveling from place to place. When mine was like that my boom was way to one side and when I when over a bump with the back tire on that side it shifted the boom to the other side and snaped the swing chain. I replaced the whole chain and it cost almost $1000.00 for the chain.
Hey Trail Boss I was starting to think the guys around here didnt like the old Fords!! I did what you said about taking the breather hose off and getting the chain tight. I must have a leak too! First I got to figure out how to get the hoe off the tractor without getting myself killed What do I do with the hydraulic lines when I get it off?? Ive completed a few more maintenance projects ; got a new alternator wired in and a new battery with volt gauge, installed a new block heater, installed an oil pressure gauge ( and found out that I have very little oil pressure), did the power steering filter and fluid, installed a new valve cover gasket, welded a nut onto the end of my loader lifting spool valve, wired up the original lights. So I'm pecking away at it!! I'm thinking about dropping the oil pan and doing a new pump and rod and main bearings, I dont know,... Lets hear it guys!!!! :usa
If the machine was mine, I'd leave the hoe on for plowing snow, a little weight never hurts for traction. Besides 2 wheel drive backhoes can get stuck easily depending on what your doing and that hoe can sometimes get you out. Besides, I think your going to need an overhead hoist to get the hoe off, possibly with the stabilizers down and the bucket making a three point tripond you can do it, but if it settles, you might be screwed...
FORD Repair Swing Cylinder on Backhoe Looking for someone skilled to repair hydraulic leak on Ford SWING CYLINDER BACKHOE in Worcester County Massachusetts - any recommendations?:beatsme
Hey Stumpjumper, I think you may be right about that hoe. I'll leave it on for the winter. Thanks MXI Hey I dont really know maybe someone here does :beatsme I need to fix the seals in my swing cylinders as well, they have slow leaks, that means the hoe needs to come off, I'll figure it out someday
Hi Brenainn just writing to let you know that I'm learning from the responses you are getting on your equipment I have owned a 555 Ford for 6 months now and am in the same boat you are. I am in the process of cleaning up the machine and changing the fluids for winter etc. Will continue to monitor you thread because it is most helpful. You Ford looks very similar to mine. Mine is a 3 Cylinder, hydrostatic trans.
Hey Finalsay, good to hear from ya! I been busy doing cordwood lately and have been using the backhoe for that. Just finished up a grapple load and figure I got about 7-8 cord of wood there. Been working on the driveway some too. Got some nice ditches down the side and a decent crown too it. Almost time to grade with the york rake and then maybe a load or 2 of knitpack if I can afford it and stick a fork in it cause I'm done! Next year I'll work on some more stuff. Need to get some tire chains and get the plows ready cause the snows coming!! :usa
My neighbor has a 4500 backhoe, the wiring and everything associated with it burned up. I want to help him rewire using a simple 12 volt alternator, battery, ignition sw, starter ect. Just enough to start charge and run the machine, would anyone have a simple wire diagram for accomplishing this.
We still have an old 4500 hanging around from the days when it was the main machine, (had 2 4500s and a 5500). We don't use it much but it is handy every now and then. They are a very strong machine for their size and age. As far as your generator goes, I would recomend canning it and replaceing it with a 1 wire alternator, no wiring diragram needed, just run the wire to the battery and you are done with it, no external regulator, don't have to polarize it, just hook up and go, also cheaper in the long run. To take the backhoe off extend the hoe out as far as it will go, set the outriggers down, there are two large nuts sticking straight up behind the seat, one on either side of the toolbox, loosen these nuts (a couple of inches or so) and then use the outriggers to lift the hoe off of the hooks. block the hoe up, disconnect the two main hyd lines to it and drive away from it. It is really a simple process if I explained it right.
I like the one wire alternators, but if I don't have one, I use an older Delco Remy alternator with internal regulator, which I think were in use for about 25 years or so, and easy to find. Connect a 10 gauge wire from the large terminal on the alt to the positive terminal on the amp meter, or go direct to the battery terminal on the starter if you don't want a working gauge. On the side of the alt there should be a plug with 2 wires coming out of it. Check for corrosion on the plug connections first. Connect the red wire back to the large positive terminal on the alt. The smaller white wire is the sensing wire and needs to go to the ignition switch to a terminal that is live only when the key is on. As with any older diesel with a manual injection pump shut-off, people forget and leave the key on sometimes, draining the battery. An oil pressure switch can be used instead. ** used them on some of their older tractors. Tee the switch into an oil gallery. Connect one terminal on the pressure switch to a live battery feed, the other to the sensing wire from the alternator. As with a starter, a good ground on an alternator is important also, I believe. Phil
I am new to this forum today. I hope my information gets seen by all you great guys. I am still working on making a new post for my problem. I hope I get the hang of all this computer stuff. I have a similar backhoe as Brenainn's without the overhead cab. I have had it for about three years with no major problems. The battery died, because the old generator does not work, and I could not get it started with my crappy 6 amp charger during the cold months of winter and so it sat unused all winter. New battery, planning on buying a one wire alternator from Autozone to keep me charged, but no start. It cranks. I drained fuel from the filter and it looks good. I opened plugs from the fuel pump, and fuel gushed. I opened the lines to the injectors; nothing. Not a drop of fuel. I was told by a back-yard deisel mechanic that it had to be a broken fuel pump shaft. Another said it was the vacuum bladder in the pump that was shot and would run about $1,000.00. All I could think of was the fact that the engine would not start unless it was in neutral. My first question is how that interupt systems works, and could that be a problem. I see a fuel return line going to a block near the ignition switch. What does that do, and could that be the problem? I am at a loss here and need some help. Thanks to all of you and this forum Tim Ashaway, RI
I have a couple of ideas, I'd like to find an old pump I have and post a picture of it. Mention of the pump governor diaphragm(bladder) makes me think you might have an in-line pump rather than the rotary pump. I doubt a bad diaphragm would keep the old in-line pump from running, they will usually just run away. A broken pump coupler on these old in-line pumps that Ford uses, is a visual check. There is a fuel valve under the CAV rotary pump cover, at the rear, that sticks in the off position, as I recall. Pumps sitting for a very long time or have moisture introduced into them can also end up with the main pump plungers stuck. I'm assuming you have the manual pump fuel shut-off lever in the 'run' position, the pump is full of fuel and air has not been introduced into the pump at some point. A fuel line leading to the rear of the engine, that does not look like the normal fuel line return to tank, is probably part of the manifold heater system. Was your engine running good before you shut it off? Phil
Thank you Phil for the quick response and help. I took a few photos and will attempt to paste them in here. The engine ran great last summer but sat idle all fall and winter. The fuel pump would appear to be rotary to my untrained eye. I drained some fuel from the stopcock at the bottom of the fuel filter to check for water, debris or gelled fuel. The fuel ran clear. I then cracked the lines at the engine head and got no fuel from any of the three cylinders when I cranked the engine. Next I cracked the ports on the front end of the fuel pump both top and side. Fuel flowed easily. The pump is not moving any fuel to the engine; not a drop. I cannot seem to figure out how to add a photo (3). If it would be of help, you might be able to give me instructions on how to add photos. Thanks for the help. Tim
This is an attempt to post one photo.
Welcome to the forum Ford 4500. :usa You have your 3 probationary posts in, you'll now have access to the forums features. Here's a link to posting pics.
Ford 4500, See if you can get fuel coming out of the bleed screw out on your injection pump(see pic 5), as part of the bleeding process. Make sure your manual shut -off lever is in the forward position, usually the cable pulls it to the rear to shut fuel off. Failing to get fuel from the injector lines, I would be tempted to pull the pump cover off, carefully, and check the fuel metering valve for free movement. Note that the cover should be cleaned beforehand, think clean when you are doing this. Be careful of the cover gasket and note the location of the spring before you unhook/rehook it. Also when reassembling the cover, the fuel shut-off lever has to engage a 'hook'(pic 4). Take your time. You will be working in diesel fuel unless you drain the pump housing. There maybe a cover on the side of the pump, so you can drain some fuel off, or you may choose to check the valve, under 'water'. The valve must rotate freely with the slightest touch. I've included a picture of a old CAV pump with no housing so you can see the valve. The complete pump in the first picture is a newer CAV pump with solenoid shut-off. I won't add any notes to the pictures, I think it's self explanatory. Phil
Last pic. Move the governor control arm(13) back and forth and the metering valve should move also. Phil
Thank you for all of that information Phil. I will study it tonight and get on it tomorrow. Can I work on it on the tractor or should I remove it first? Thank you again. Here are photos of my unit:
I could be totally wrong here...but it looks like the fuel shut down is pulled back.
Looks the same to me.
You both are correct. I had been guessing that the problem was something simple like a clogged port rather than a broken shaft or worse. I had been bleeding fuel from the upper port and working the shutoff linkage back and forth to perhaps dislodge any gunk that may be clogging the works. I left it overnight in the closed position and took the photos today. Before getting this great help from Phil this morning, my next plan was going to force fuel under pressure into the pump to dislodge any bad fuel or gunk. Or, forcing in some solvents and/or Deisel 911 to disolve any blockage. Never having been inside one, I was a little reluctant to damage any delicate floats or valves. I am not working with any manuals or drawings here. I spent last evening searching for some answers or help on the internet and found you guys. It was like dry land to a drowning man. I am trying to decide if I can take off the cover with the pump still installed and keep it clean enough or remove it for bench work. I have a job lined up for the machine that I will lose this week. Without a truck/trailer the extra income comes from neighbors, and that puts the pressure on for me to produce or be the last guy to call. You guys have been great. Many, many thanks to Phil for taking the time to guide me through this step by step providing photos, drawings and instruction. Tim
Ok then, if you've been trying to get fuel with the shutoff in the "run" position to no avail, I think Phil has given you some good illustrations to work with. I would attempt the repairs with the unit installed as opposed to removing it. Remove all the heavy debris that you can with a scaper and compressed air. Then soak the whole thing down with starting fluid and blow of with air. This will clean everthing that would contaminate the system. Good luck and keep in touch. Phil seems to have some good stuff on this.
Thank you ATCOEQUIP. I will do as you say; very clean. Have been working under a tarp for a couple of weeks now due to the rain here. More coming all week. Nice to know that I have guys like you. I start at 5am. Gotta go. Thanks again. Tim
Thank you ATCOEQIP, I will keep it clean as you say. Working under a tarp the past few weeks due to the rain continues for the next week as well. Many thanks to you for the advice. I start at 5 am, rain is now my friend. Thanks again. Tim
Nice looking Ford. Got a 420 myself, dig well for a smaller machine...
Can anyone tell me where to find the HP rating of Ford 4500 Diesel 1970? Industrial tractor. I have seen it listed in several publications from 52-67 HP. Seems like there should only be 1 answer, but I cannot find it. Also, same question for a Cat 830 MB. Thank you.
The 4500 i have is a great machine. Bought it used. Did a litttle work on it, new clutch, front and rear trans brg, lubes, filters, ect. The last major problem has me stumped. When i got the machine the dig bucket was slow to curl out. In was no problem. Plenty of pull in power. My son actually ripped the bucket popping out a stump. Now the bucket will not curl out at all. The boom in and out ok. Slow to swing left, fast moving right. There are some adjustment screws on the valve body (impossible to get at) but none seem to help. All the rest of the hyds work ok. any suggestions.:beatsme
Looks like you got a broken swing chain bolt, and the only way to fix that is to disconnect both hydraulic swing hoses (while the boom is up) so you may swing the boom by hand, to replace the (hardened) bolt. Keep chains oiled they are very expensive and the left & right is different. Buy a one wire alternator and be done with it. Some have two fuel filters and some have one. Fill them with fuel and the bleeder is a 1/2" hex on the pump. I advise to do the filters after the engine has warmed up. We always have, had Big Fords and when run out of fuel the tend to be extremly hard to restart. Also Note; that if you have a "flipper" on the mechanical lift pump, you must turn over the engine until the pump is relaxed on the camshaft or it will do nothing when you try to pump it > to bleed the system. On the power steering there is a filter in the pump that looks like a regular Ford truck, or maybe the pumps getting a little weak.
On the topic of the swing chain, I was able to order a chain repair kit from a bearing supply company once, for my 4500. It matched up to the type of chain used commonly for forklifts. I'm sure longer lengths could have been ordered. Your hydraulic problem may be a failed circuit(secondary) valve in that circuit. Foreign pieces in the oil will also lodge under valves and cause problems. I also had a 550 once, that had a slow to curl bucket problem that was intermittent. Although I did not work on the machine I was told by the previous owner that it a mechanic found a piece of nylon, from packing, in a valve in that circuit. We need you ATCOEQUIP. Phil
Sounds like i need to remove the valve body, take apart and clean. Any do,s or dont,s, tricks, ect. I have had the backhoe off the tractor before to replace hoses so thats no problem. Don,t know about the valves though. Any suggestions what to look for besides trash. On the swing chain: We also had both sides ot our swing chain break at the same time. I blamed the small crossover hose that ties the left and right cyls.together since it was busted. We were lucky that the links were repairable. A litte heat from our torch some grade eight bolts (to make new pins) and we were back in business.
I think you've nailed it Phil. When you describe "adjustment screws" on the valve body, "screws" being plural (meaning more than one), it sounds like the valve body has circuit relief valves on it. That's where I'd be looking. If the bucket has power to pull a stump, then it's doubtful there's a problem with the cylinder packing. It could be something as simple as a failed o-ring on a circuit relief valve. I'd be plucking them out. I'd even switch some of the reliefs and see if the problem now moves to a different function, thereby determining you have a failed relief valve. As for the swing chain broken; if it was broken where it attaches to one swing cylinder, wouldn't it swing one way then not come back at all?
I will start plucking and checking the o-rings. Many thanks for pointing me in a starting direction. I believe what i am looking at may be relief valves. A little hard to see where they are located at. I will let you know how it turns out. I am sure i will have other questions. Don't know why both swing chains broke at the same time. My son was operating the machine at the time and if he was doing something stupid he-aint-talking.
Gotta thank Phil...he's the one who lead you there. Nothing unusual there.
Hey Phil, Many thanks!!!!!!!!! Just signed up for this forum, Gotta get use to how to get arround
Welcome to the forum 64eman. :usa Phil is a handy guy. Just gotta catch him before 9 PM, that's his recharge time.
Thanks for jumping in on this one ATCOEQUIP, just a lucky guess on my part . I don't have a lot of experience with hydraulic systems and I felt this chap needed your advice. Talk to you later, Phil
Hey guys, I've had a '67 4500 for about a year now and have gone through some of the same issues posted on this thread. One simple thing I had trouble figuring was how to cap the hydraulic lines. For those who haven't doen it yet you take one line off at the machine and the other off at the hoe connecting them back to form a loop. As for the return line(the big fat one), you remove this at the tractor side and loop it back to a plug that should be welded inside the upper right hand corner of the hoe frame(above the right cylinder). On this plug should be a cap to put on the tractor. It is very simple but I wasted alot of time trying to figure it out. I would post pics but it appears I am not aloud. As far as the swing cylinders go, if there is fluid building up in that cross-over line rebuild the cylinders. Mine got to the point of blowing out the line and covering me and the tractor with oil. Plus with the seals shot your in danger of damaging the inside of the cylinder. This thread has been the most helpful thing I have found on my tractor and I thank all you guys.
Welcome Ranchand, You are right about the confusing line rearrangement when it comes time to remove the hoe. I got a page printed off from a farm dealer showing the layout and was able to figure it out from there. I believe you have to have more than 5 posts before you can start your own thread, complete with pictures. Phil
Hydrolics help We just inherited a 4500 and cant keep hydrolic oil in it. as hydrolic gets lower, engine oil goes up. I believe it is a 1964 3 cyl diesel. Where is the Hydrolic pump? is there a gasket between the pump and the engine block? otherwise runs great and is in good condition.
Do you have a backhoe or three point hitch? If you have a 3ph the pump for that is on the left side rear of engine, it is lubed by engine oil, and when the internal seals go bad it can do that. If you have a backhoe it runs off the loader pump, which is in the front and driven by a shaft, not direct from engine. Thinking about it; does your powersteering pump have it's own reservoir?; some do, most use main hyd. tank. The powersteering pump is on the front left of engine, and driven by timing gears. It is a possibility if it uses main reservoir.
3 pt hitch, Ill have to check if it has a power steering reservoir. Thanks for your help!
my 4500 will not start, suspect fuel delivery, checked all below this thread... Phil, can I add an electric pump (upstream from the factory manual pump, of course) to this backhoe? marty
hey guyl's very interesting read.quick question for phil. where are you located? i'm in 401 / 416 area?
Martychi, an electric pump won't help, the fuel is delivered to the injector pump by gravity. The injector pump pressurises the fuel to a few thousand psi, and delivers it at exactly the right time. The way the spark determines the timing on a gas engine, injector pump does on a diesel. If you loosen the 5/16 headed bleed screw on the side of the pump, and spin the engine, do you get a good stream of fuel, with no bubbles? Once you do, loosen all the injector lines on top of the engine, near the valve cover, a few turns and spin the engine again, untill you see clear fuel with no bubbles. Once you see clear fuel, tighten the lines while it is spinning. BE VERY CAREFUL, AND TOUCH THE LINE NUTS WITH A WRENCH ONLY! DO NOT USE YOUR HANDS! THE FUEL CAN BE INJECTED UNDER YOUR SKIN AT HIGH PRESSURE, AND CAUSE LOSS OF FINGERS!
trevor b, We haven't heard from Phil since Dec. 09,2010. It has been suggested we start a --Where Is Phil thread. I would do it but worry that his identity may be exposed. I am sure a lot of members prefer to keep their identity unknown on a public discussion forum.
this 4500 ford hoe was working fine about 3 weeks ago...
These engines are bad about getting air locked. Getting back to that pump bleeder screw, when you spin the engine, the fuel should spray 3-6 feet. If you take the injectors off the lines, do you get any fuel when you spin the engine? Just checking: you do have the fuel shut off lever at the front on top of the pump in the forward position; and, when you move it back and forth, does it feel like it is hooked to something? When you are bleeding this engine the throttle should be full open. Before I disassembled anything on the pump, I would want to be certain that there was plenty of fuel getting to it. Have you changed the fuel filter? You may want to blow back through the lines into the tank, because these machines are bad about getting clogs in the needle valve in the bottom of the tank. I usually take that needle valve out and throw it away, replacing it with a 1/4 turn ball valve. If you decide to the problem is in the pump, there are good instructions earlier in this thread, just clean everything well before you start, take it slow, and check one thing at a time. Good luck, and let us know what you find, Mitch
no fuel from ford 4500 injectors help! These engines are bad about getting air locked. Getting back to that pump bleeder screw, when you spin the engine, the fuel should spray 3-6 feet...no, only about 1 foot...seems more like gravity pressure... If you take the injectors off the lines, do you get any fuel when you spin the engine?...no, sometimes a drop Just checking: you do have the fuel shut off lever at the front on top of the pump in the forward position; and, when you move it back and forth, does it feel like it is hooked to something?...yes When you are bleeding this engine the throttle should be full open...check Before I disassembled anything on the pump, I would want to be certain that there was plenty of fuel getting to it. Have you changed the fuel filter? You may want to blow back through the lines into the tank, because these machines are bad about getting clogs in the needle valve in the bottom of the tank. I usually take that needle valve out and throw it away, replacing it with a 1/4 turn ball valve....fuel supply is ok up to the pump If you decide to the problem is in the pump, there are good instructions earlier in this thread, just clean everything well before you start, take it slow, and check one thing at a time. Good luck, and let us know what you find, Mitch
Hi guys I'm a newbie with a 4500 as well and am trying to do some research to figure out my fuel issue. My dad was running mine an ran it out of fuel on me so I figured I would replace the filters at this time seeing I would have to bleed her anyway, replace both filters re filled the tank and tried to bleed her but nada, finally got fuel flowing to the inlet of the pump well but did notice that the plate with the two bolts in it where the line feeds was leaking. I tried to snug EM up n broke the one I'll ex out it tomorrow. But when I removed the plate it had a rubber gasket/diaphragm looking unit behind it my question is should this be replaced? Will a leak here cause her not to bleed properly? Any other input would be appreciated as well. And btw learned an awful lot just reading from you guys PLEASE KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK
I archived your thread and have a somewhat similar situation. I just bought a 71 4500 tlb and the trans fluid was milky so I changed it with the filter and drove around and it seemed to shift forward and reverse much better. The next day I went to move it to pressure wash it it would not move any direction. Not having much knowlege on shuttle trans, I am waiting for the service manual. It makes no noise at all so I'm hoping for a stuck valve or something without splitting. Any ideas? Thanx. steve
there is two large rods w/1 1/2 nuts that hold the backhoe in the cradle. Step 1, extend the backhoe out so the bucket is on the ground. Step 2,Loosen the two nuts that hold the backhoe in the cradle, one on each side. Step 3, raise the outriggers enough to clear the cradle on top and bottom. Step 4, move backhoe forward enough to clear the cradle. Step 5, disconnect the two small hoses and reconnect them together, the larger return line needs to be capped off with a #16 cap. DO NOT cap the two small hoses for it will bind the engine when trying to start. If you want to cap the ends on the hoe to keep trash out the two small hoses use a #14 male and female cap, the larger connections is a #16 female cap.
Sorry for bumping an old thread but I had a question. I just purchased a 4500 and it looks to be a decent piece of equipment. However, I noticed it does have some age and the cylinders aren't holding like they probably should. I have the swing chain looseness and I'm going to look at it this weekend. My question is where's the best place to find O-rings and seals locally? Is there a part number or sizing chart that explains what's needed for the various valves and such online or do I need to purchase the service manual and go from there? These questions have probably been answered somewhere but when I searched I couldn't find anything. Any help is appreciated.
I've never seen a listing for o-ring sizes, other than some equipment manufacturers put them in parts books. usually you take them out and go to a parts store or hydraulics shop and match them up. you can look up the parts books on line. Messicks.com is a good place.
Thanks Mitch. Just wondering. This is all new to me. Mine needs some TLC and tearing apart valves and rams is first order.
Another question. What about packings on the rams? Specifically, the crowd cylinder and lift cylinder? The guy I bought it from said I could go to NAPA and find one. Any truth to this? Both are leaking fluid out pretty bad.
Not any NAPA store I've been to, but if yours does cylinder work they should have them. Any local hydraulics shop can match up what you take out. These people sell them by application and are good to work with, I order from them frequently. https://www.baumhydraulics.com
Another vote for Baum Hydraulics because they are more than just hydraulics, see https://www.baumhydraulics.com/home.php?cat=1 very helpful folks too. Haven't needed to repair/replace my swing chain yet, but this would be my goto place for it.
Excellent! Thanks for the advice.
A friend of mine is selling a Ford 4500 and I was wanting to purchase the backhoe but I did not know what a reasonable price would be. The backhoe runs good and seems to be strong. The tires are pretty worn and as of right now the clutch is stuck. He said that he would sell it to me for $3000. Does this seem like a reasonable price? Thanks in advance for the help.
If it's in good shape, $3000 sounds like a deal. USUALLY a stuck clutch can be remedied by holding the pedal down and driving around bumping into things.
Thanks Mitch. It looks like I will be the new owner very soon then.
hi sorry to jump in but I have been searching for two weeks for info and just found this thread. I have a manufacture date of feb. 1970 ford 4500 backhoe. I have had it for 25years and it is the best machine I have ever owned. the picture of #26 by ford 4500 of his distributor type fuel pump Is the same one I have. the pump is leaking out of the left side inlet cover pretty bad. the tractor runs great but leaks more fuel than it uses. can this cover be removed on the tractor and a o-ring or something be replaced. I have a complete set of for shop manuals for this unit but it doesn't cover the internals of this pump. I have done a lot of repairs over the years to this unit but am getting up in years and would like to be able to use it again without major cost. As I live in a very small town with our post office on the neighbors front porch and no retail stores of any kind close by taking the tractor some where would require hauling it several hours to the nearest repair center.(I don't have a trailor)any help would be a life saver as I use this tractor all the time on my self sustaining life here on my farm.
I had the same problem with my 4500. Leaking like crazy. Finally had no choice but to remove the top cover. I bought some o-rings from grainger, did the repair and replaced the top cover. Then it would not start. I spent hours trying to fix it. No fuel to the injectors. To make a long story short, if I would have carefully removed the cover, took pictures, replaced the o-ring, it would have been simple. I didn't do the picture part. Don't be afraid of this fix, just go slow and take pictures. You can do it easily.
I've written at least 20 threads on how to do it.. CAV DPA pump??
1970 ford 4500 backhoe I started by removing the left side inlet cap while still on the tractor. I found a flat seal similar in design to a oil filter seal (except much smaller) it was punctured by the split pin in the cap when installed. I had a thermostat seal the same size and replaced it. reassembled the end cap and no leaks (for the last 20hrs +)of hard running. thanks for the responses all.