I have a neighbor with a 1971 Ford 550 Backhoe that is having fuel pump timing issues. Any tips on getting the timing set right? I have not looked at it yet but I assume there must be some sort of timing mark. I know to put cyl #1 on TDC before tearing it apart. I will of course mark on the gears where it sits now, as well as the orientation of the pump on the mounting bolts if for nothing else so I can set it all back to where it is now, but I have no experience with this machine and I would like to get it going for him. Thanks in advanced for any replies.
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what kind of timing issues? did somebody mess with it? typically the timing doesn't change on it's own, there's lots of other problems with the fuel system that are much more likely.
That pump should be a CAV/Delphi DPA pump.. There’s a master tooth/cut-out on the pump drive hub.. u match that up w the dowel pin that’s sticking out of the gear.. Once mated, install the 3 nuts AND washers.. BEFORE TIGHTENING THEM, look on the mounting ear of the pump for a timing line.. that line needs to go real close to the “0*” mark on the block.. That’s it.. install the lines and linkages.. If changing the f filter, REMEMBER the TOP ORING MUST GO “UP IN” the filter head.!!! Otherwise it chokes off the fuel.. If u can’t get it started, come back for bleeding instructions.. Good luck
I'm with Delmer, something is missing from this story. Someone take the pump off for some unknown reason? If so who and why? Or what makes you/him think it's a pump timing issue? We need "The rest of the story" and so do you before you waste a lot of time and money trying to fix the wrong thing. Joe H
If u give me the pump number, I can tell u which outlet is #1 on the pump and u can “air time” it.. THAT’LL give u a starting point for the engine.. On some pumps, if u open the side cover on the pump, there’s a C-clip w a flat on 1 end.. That flat will line up with a letter on the rotor.. which makes it SUPER EASY to time it.. If u have to go past the 0 with the timing line on the pump ear, u have problems.. Each line on the engine block is 2*.. So u don’t wanna go past the 0 more than 1/2-1 line.. Good luck
Yes, it had been in a fire and he bought it several years ago and tried fixing it himself. Not being a mechanic he did not mark anything when he took it apart. I have not gotten into yet, it runs rough, but it does run and I do not want to down this machine until I have sufficient knowledge about that fuel pump.
Thank you very much! I'll see if I can't get the numbers off of the pump for you.
Thank you very much!
You're right. He had purchased it after it had been in a fire. He repaired most of it himself a couple years ago. The guy is very smart, but he's not a mechanic. All he has done is rotate the pump on its mounting bolts to try to mess with the timing. I have no experience with these machines and would like to get it going for him.
If you get the numbers to thepumpguy, or if the owner remembers if the gear came out of the engine with the injection pump, or if it has a shaft that only goes on one way, then you'll get better advice. Sounds like he has a pretty good grasp of things if it's running!
So I went and worked on it yesterday, and honestly besides a slight and I mean almost unrecognizable sputter and about half throttle it ran just fine. I don't think timing is the issue. I found all the return lines on the injectors were cracked and loose, and leaking. The banjo fittings on the injectors and fuel pump are leaking, and two of the injectors themselves are leaking. Not a lot, but enough to be noticeable. Pretty sure that might be a good portion of the problem.
Probably sucking in air. Here's a weird one. We replaced an injector pump on a Ford 655 with a new pump. Ran ok but missed slightly at higher RPM'S. Shop kept telling us it was air. We got them to send a tech out. Long story short it was the steel line between the filter and pump. Replaced the line and it still had the problem. Installed a rubber line and problem solved. No Idea why it cused the issue.
MMTTR.. I’m not exactly sure on your return set up BUT.. on some models the return not only goes back to the tank, but it T’s off and routes some fuel back to the filter.. SO, if this is the case, fixing all those leaks (sucking air) should show a real improvement..
The fire you describe is probably the classic Ford battery fire. Check the return line all the way back to the tank. If partially obstructed, it will give you problems.