Starter went belly up (actually I think it is just the solenoid), and I got it all unhooked, but I can't remember how to physically get the starter out. I do remember that it is nearly impossible, but not quite. There is a large hard hydraulic line right below it that prevents me from being able to tip it down, and I can't remember if it will come out without having to drain the hydraulics, and take that line loose. Anyone here remember stuff like that?
I changed one a long time ago. I remember removing the dipstick tube from the block and removing the solenoid bolts and letting the solenoid flop over to clear the fuel pump. But, my thoughts and memories of that experience are fuzzy from the rage and hatred for that machine I felt at the time. The only thing that made me feel better was to slam my penis in the door jam with the cab door. I was able to overcome my emotions with that therapy and finish the job on time so I could catch my plane home from whatever third-world village I was at. Your mileage may vary. Good luck.
Here is a not so good video of a guy putting one back in but he already has it in the hole when it starts. He does describe the removal as Coaldust says.
Thanks for the replies guys. I've had the starter out of it before, when I split the machine to work on the shuttle. I remember filing a tiny bit of metal off of the snout, and I definitely had the hard hydraulic line just below it disconnected. I guess it was such a painful memory that I blocked it out of my mind.
Try slamming your crank in the door like Coaldust, maybe it'll jog your memory..
I have what is known as a high functioning forgetter, so I don't know if even THAT would help.
A ratcheting end wrench (Gearwrench) helps with the bolt behind the starter case. Minutes instead of half an hour, or at least that's what it feels like. Everyone laughed when I showed up with a set of Gearwrench ratcheting wrenches. Wasn't so funny after they realized I was knocking out the starters without pain.
I did have to take the hydraulic lines loose, and was finally able to get the old starter out. However, the new starter has a slightly longer solenoid, which seems to be making it impossible to install due to interference with the fuel pump. I can't figger out how to remove the dipstick tube. You happen to remember how to remove it, or will dredging up that memory cause you to need therapy?
Doesn't appear to be anything securing it in there. Does it unscrew, maybe? I have not been able to get it to move in any way. BTW, I cannot see it nearly as well as the picture would indicate with the loader arms right in my way, but my phone camera fits in there to get a picture.
It appears to be a pressed in fit. This may sound extreme but instead of taking a chance of breaking it off flush with the block, cut it off and leave enough to be able reinstall it with a splice.
Jaguar service manuals had this dreaded phrase "maneuver clear" often proceeded by "using a suitable prising bar". Both meant the same thing, get a cutting torch. Joe H
Yeah, I like the fact that the Ford service manual just says to disconnect the wires, remove the bolts, and take the starter out. Makes it sound simple. One of those things which leaves me thinking if they had designed in just a quarter inch more room.........
GOT IT! I didn't get the dipstick tube out, but somehow, as I was about 3 notches past frustrated, all of a sudden the starter all but jumped into place on its own. I have no clue how it happened, but I am mighty thankful that it did. Now to put everything back together that I had to take apart to get to the starter. I can't believe that none of you jokers volunteered to come over and do this job for me.
I am guessing that you had it rotated enough to get the solenoid clear of the tube, then turned the starting motor to line up the bolt holes. Weren't you able to get a starter identicle to the one you removed ? Is the old one rebuild-able for a spare ? I can say from experience that a spare starting motor is very desirable to have.
Yeah, it seems to be identical except for the solenoid, which is a little longer. The service manual refers to the fact that later models have an improved version. I suspect that the solenoid was the problem anyway. It would just click loudly, and the starter motor itself didn't even try to turn. I will keep the old one, and maybe get it rebuilt some day.