Live in South Africa and own a well used 550/555 tlb - not even sure which model as the serial plates are gone. It is the 2wd with the power reversing transmission. Blew the transmission oil seal - the spring was off the seal - the agents needed two days to provide one, not to mention a small gold mine, so a reputable seal shop provided one from the oil pump and torque converter which i took to them (double lip high temp seal). That blew within 20 minutes - the outer lip of the seal was damaged in two places. I assumed I had nicked the seal when installing the converter - it has two 'lugs' on the end of the shaft and both were pretty sharp. Filed and polished the lugs and in went another seal. That lasted 45 mins. Before I strip her for the third time, I need to find out whats causing the seals to fail. 1. I've wondered if the seals can be too tight on the shaft - would that cause the outer lip to split and tear under heat? On the tractorbynet forum the only suggestion is excess vibration of the converter is causing the seals to fail. When i first split her one of the bolts flexplate to TQ was loose and one of the flexplate to flywheel bolts as well. All are tightened. I will have a real good look at the flexplate when I strip her next. 2. How would I tell if the TQ needs a rebuild - its not like I would feel any extra vibration on this brute. Could this cause the failure of the oil seals? Any suggestions appreciated. Ken
seal failure Ken, The thing that I would look at is the wear on the converter hub that slides into the charge pump. The bushing in the charge pump that supports that hub. And the rear converter hub along with the pilot hub that is bolted to/along with the retaining of the flywheel. A broken or loose rear main bearing cap, worn rear main bearings could also effect this as well as the locate pins that keep the engine/bell housing centered when pulled up tight. To install the converter, place the converter into the charge pump with the flex plate installed, slide the engine back and install bolts and hardware to pull it up and tighten, work threw the cover to install the bolts and washers just snug on the flex plate, rotate the engine about 5 rounds with the starter, (do not let it start) this will center the converter up with the flex plate/flywheel. Tighten the converter/flex plate bolts up tight. I pack the back side of those charge pump seals with vas jelly to help keep the spring in place during install. The male hub shaft, rear of converter and female hub bolted to the flywheel should be a close fit.
Thanks Sheepfoot Gonna rule out the items I know? think are ok 1. Loose rear main bearing cap / worn rear bearings - the rear engine seal is not even seeping oil and she doesnt use any engine oil so I'm assuming the engine is not the cause of the problem. Would you agree? 2. The locate pins are present and in good order Havent studied the flywheel, but intend to have it off this time I split her (got a leaking welsch plug and it can only be located behind the flywheel!) I have a manual (which at times is not totally helpful as someone had their hands all over her and pulled off a number of items - like the transmission oil cooler. She has run over a few hundred hours without it though so I'm assuming this hasn't caused the damage). I did the installation as you describe, only did not use the starter to centralise the converter, merely turned the engine over by hand twice as the manual suggests. Will get back when i have her apart - AGAIN!
Got her apart again and put the pump and TQ together without a seal - and then the problem was obvious. The bushes in the pump are worn out and there is tons of play. One bush even has chunks out of it. Being South Africa and not rolling in cash I'm off to the local engineering workshop here in the farming town - gonna see if they can machine some new bushes to match all the wear. I know this isn't the best solution - should replace the pump, not to mention prob the TQ as well since the shaft is probably rather worn, but since this beast just gets used by me on my farm and Ive got splitting her down to a fine art of three hours, I'm gonna give it a bash. Just to give you an idea - the agents want R700 for just a new seal, not even finding out what a new pump costs yet!
Got a new bronze bush manafactured - turns out the neck of the converter is rather well worn - no longer even round - the turner did his best and the bush is twice as thick as the old one but still has some play when the pump is slipped on to the convertor. Purchased the ford seal - turns out I was misquoted on price by Ford and the cost of the seal was only a third of what they originally quoted. This seal is single lipped, much looser on the convertor neck. Did enquire about getting the neck of the convertor redone - thats gotto be imported into the country and will take fourteen days etc. So she is back together and after three hoirs of use Im still fingers crossed and she aint leaking. My assumption was the bronze bush wear was causing too much movement of the convertor neck which was resulting in the outer lip of the seals tearing - and the torn bits getting lodged under the inner seal causing the huge oil leaks. Did replace all the welsch plugs whilst I was at it. Thanks for the advice from everyone here - what did we do without the internet?
Ken1973, good to hear that you were able to have some machine shop work done to get it running for now. Even in the US we have delays on parts but most times it's next day or two day shipping anywhere in the US if the dealer/venders don't have it on the shelf. Converters and charge pumps are common parts here with several venders set up to do rebuilding/with a exchange programs. Most sell a rebuilt unit with a core charge, they bill you until you core gets returned and then credit you back. It would be hard for most of us to have a two week wait for parts. I hope you picked up all the parts needed so you don't have to keep splitting it, your on the right track to tighten up the wear so it will run a long time.