Fixing leaking cylinders seems to be the popular thing to do to a backhoe so I decided to join the crowd. The first 3 pictures are for a loader bucket cylinder that was leaking badly. Unfortunately, the dealer got the wrong seal kit for me so I'm waiting to see what they come up with. Meanwhile, I pulled apart the steering cylinder. The rod has a lot of dents from rocks landing on it. It's very exposed and vulnerable to anything falling off the loader bucket. The dealer wants $1200 for a new rod. Can I just file off the high spots and then polish it with very fine sandpaper? Or maybe I could get a hydraulic shop to make a new rod.
It's so much fun you'll find yourself doing another one every year or so! Yes, file off the bumps and sand smooth. Most general repair machinists will be able to order the rod and make up that rod, the hydraulic shops farm that out to them, so might as well deal direct. Or you could find the part number and see if there's an NOS or aftermarket rod available.
I'm good with the file and sand method since this is a low use machine. I don't mind a little seepage, but I don't want it to just ruin the new seals after a few hours of use. I'll have to see if the dealer will give me the part number for the rod.
Get some emery cloth and use the old shoe shine method on it. https://www.amazon.com/3M-03008-Emery-Cloth-Assorted/dp/B000FP8HUU/ref=pd_bxgy_img_sccl_1/139-0076438-5244211?content-id=amzn1.sym.7746dde5-5539-43d2-b75f-28935d70f100&pd_rd_i=B000FP8HUU&psc=1
The bottom line is that you must remove any and all of the raised portions. The portions that dip in will not cut the seals, but will carry a small amount of oil. I like an angle die grinder and 3m (roloc)pads to take down the high spots.
Thanks for the advice guys. Turns out that CNH does not have the correct kit for this cylinder anymore. I would have to buy a new gland and piston to update the cylinder to the new style. So I guess I need to try to source the seals individually. I found what I think are suitable substitutes for most of them, but I'm not sure where to get a new gland wire.
You have a lathe. The rod is available online. If you are qualified to cut threads, make a new rod. I confess I chickened out on making a new barrel a few years back. I've always wondered if I could have done it. Seems to me a rod would be simpler.
Sometimes it is cheaper to replace a steering cylinder than repair it. Broken Tractor Link
I used this kit when I did mine. Fit correctly, and came with the wire. 85804740 Bucket Cylinder Seal Kit Fits Ford 455C-675E Ford Style 85804740 Hydraulic Cylinder Seal Kit This is a New Seal Kit that fits the following Models and Cylinder part numbers. Model Num. Application Cylinder Rod Size (in) Bore (in) Serial Num. Misc Part # 455C LOADER B cea-services.com
That's a good idea but the only problem is this one has an integral piston. That's probably why it's so much for a new one. Not to mention that my lathe skills are pathetic...
This machine is newer than the year listed on the site, but for $32 it might be worth a chance!
I looked into that also. Unfortunately every listing I could find was either for 2wd only or mysteriously excluded 555D. Not sure what makes this one so special...
If it is a 555d, this is the cylinder kit that Messicks shows. Look at the price difference. The fact that it is in stock tells me it is a hot #.
I looked it up on Messick's and I think the note under item #11A is telling us the same thing the dealer told me. The seals will only fit the updated gland and piston I think.
Trust me, I get what you are saying. I spent over $400 for the updated gland nut for the crowd cylinder. After I did that, NH575E and I were discussing it, and he found the kit that would work with the original gland. Not telling you what to do, but I put that kit in my 1999 machine and it fit. I may be worth the $42 (including shipping to my house) to buy it and try. NH575E called CEA-Services and talked to them. They agreed to take back one of the 2 kits he purchased for one of his cylinders. BTW, the CEA-Services kits come from Hercules just like the individual items you priced out above.
Ok, I appreciate your first hand experience. Did the kit come with a new retaining wire?
Yes. I also put clear reviews in the slot after the wire is in to keep water and corrosion out.
Correction...Clear RTV...Never trust spell check...LOL
Autocorrect can be so frustrating! Thanks again for your recommendation of CEA services. I called and talked to Chris today and he was very helpful. The Ford part number that he pulled up for this machine is different than the one the dealer sold me so I'm hopeful that everything will fit properly (with the bonus of being 1/3 the cost!).
Hopefully it is correct!
Good luck! I'm about to tackle the boom on my 575E. I found stock on the obsolete kit for it so with a whole bunch of luck I will have one rebuild go my way.
Many thanks @Swetz and @NH575E ! The kit from CEA was correct, all the seals were perfect match to the originals (minus the deterioration of course!). I've installed the gland on the rod but have not reinstalled the piston and bolt yet. What torque spec do you guys use, or do you just let the rattle gun go until it won't go any tighter? Red threadlocker on the bolt threads?
I use blue loctite and hammer the bolt with a 1" air gun till the compressor cycles back on then let it build and do it again. I have an undersize compressor though. So far I haven't had one come loose.
This one had red on the threads when I took it apart, but it also came off with just a 1/2" air impact
This is what mine looked like prior to reassembly: I had to have mine professionally removed. Admittedly I did not apply heat or really "get after it" as this was my first crack at a cylinder re-seal adventure and I did not want to damage anything. I did do the re-assembly much the same way as @NH575E . Torque specs for these cylinder pistons are unreal and I doubt guys like us (normal, relatively sane), have the necessary equipment to achieve those numbers. Good luck on yours.
Those of us with older machines can't really go by what things look like when we take them apart. No telling how many times they have been apart and how many people like me that ignore some specifications and do things our way have been in there. The question of Loctite type and torque specs comes up from time to time so I went to the E series manual seeking answers. Here are the rod and gland torques listed in the E series New Holland manual. Here is the list of Loctite numbers and types. My manual calls for the 262/271 High Strength Red for piston bolts and glands. I will continue using 242 Blue on the bolts and anti seize on the glands. So there you have it. Figure out how or if you want to do it by the book or follow your own path.
I hope you don't use red loctite on any of the glands. The are usually a bi to get loose without it. IMHO of course.
I didn't use heat either. I don't know what New Holland calls for, but this one has a class 10.9 M24-2.00 piston bolt which has a standard torque spec of a little over 800 ft-lbs. Being a D Series it may be a little bit different than the numbers in the chart that NH575E posted.
I use the blue Loctite on the bolt. I have a powerful 1" drive that zaps them off and on. I do not check torque...good..n...tighten..,LOL
God no! To be honest, as a farm machine, they don't need to be crazy tight. I actually use neversieze on the threads.
Holy Smokes NH. I hadn’t went looking for the torque specs for the crowd cylinder I’m rebuilding now. I thought at the most it was 700-800 lbs. Looks like my battery 3/4 Milwaukee impact is going to have a feast!
Well, both the loader bucket cylinder and the steering cylinder are reassembled and seem to be working fine with no leaks so far. Thanks for all the advice!
Thanks for the update. I am glad it all worked out!