Just bought a very used 1989 (I think) Ford 655C and want to do at least an oil change and any other filters and easily accessible maintenance things assuming (to be safe as I dont know...) that it was neglected and I shoukd do as much as I can and should before I really use it. Cursory searches online show too much junk to wade through. Should I try and find a tractor repairman who makes house calls? Or is there a good site folks can recommend for filter kits and 'how to' info?
Welcome to HEF Barty ! From your questions I take it that you have no experience doing basic maintenance on equipment. Buy a service manual for your Ford. EBay is a good place to find one. You really, really need one. You should get someone to help show you how to do that oil change. It is super important that you use the correct oil. Servicing the fuel filters and the associated components is not something you should attempt without competent help there to show you how to do it.
Thanks for the welcome! I do not have any experience doing basic maintenance on heavy equipment. I have alot on regular vehicles.... I just did an oil change, rear differential, and transfer case service on my '15 F-250 6.2L gasser. I have had a couple diesel trucks in the past and maintained them. I put a listing out on CL for someone to come help show me and have 1 response already. The machine came with the service and repair manual but that has nothing in it about routine maintenance (11 chapters of more intense repair stuff), so I think I need the operators/owners manual? Also no clue about where to order parts and filters as I assume you cannot run down to Walmart or Advance Auto to grab filters..... Is Tractor Supply a good resource for lubricants and filters?
NAPA
I got the owners manual. It at least gives lubricant information, but this is old... dont know whether things have changed in 30 years (like they do for on-road vehicles) in terms of what you 'should' use. For instance the engine lubricant is listed as 'Ford M2C-121-B/c or M2C-159-A/B'. In the ambient temperature chart it shows a very wide range of weights to use depending on the outside temp. Living in Vermont we get below zero sometimes in winter and 90 degrees in the dead of summer. I wont be putting all that much time on this as its not a commercial machine to me, but its arriving with black oil that was overdue for a change when I bought it and I will be doing work here in November / December before the ground freezes solid and maybe plow a small driveway a few times through the winter. Chart says 0 degress should be 10w30. Plus 10 degrees should be 15w30, plus 20 degrees should be 20w40 or 20w50. Then 40 degrees and above calls for SAE 30. Never seen a chart with different oil weights for every 10 degrees of temperature change.... thinking I will do 20w40 and try not to run it unless I get snowed in when the temp is below 20 degrees. Then I can change it again the spring when temps are back consistently in the 40's and above. The manual doesn't say what oil filter to use... I guess maybe NAPA would have that info? Hopefully the guy I will have come help will at least know this elementary stuff but I'd like to purchase what I need ahead of time. For engine oil and transmission (10w30), should I use synthetic blend oils? Full synthetic?
Engine oil. 15W-40. Delo or Delvac. Some use Rotella but I have no experience with it. Synthetic blend is better. I'd look for a 5W-40 in a blend or full synthetic, but be prepared, a good synthetic will dislodge a lot of the carbon built up in the block. As for filters, Wix, Napa Gold or Baldwin will serve you well. Fuel filters. Look around on YouTube for videos showing how to change fuel filters on a CAV injection pump. Don't use NAPA or Wix filters. They block fuel flow. Look for Baldwin or OEM. Messicks.com is a good source for OEM anything. Check out their online parts diagrams under NewHolland, Construction. Transmission. A Napa, Wix or Baldwin filter is what to look for. Baldwin is a BT5. Valvoline makes a transmission fluid that meets Ford specs.; VV813. Most others don't. Needs to "meet or exceed" Ford M2C134D spec. Most say recommended for or equivalent to and are actually a 20W hydraulic fluid. M2C134D (aka 134D) is closer to 40W. You can use the TSC Travelers Premium in the hydraulics, but not the transmission or center housing. Check out your manual. You drain the transmission via drain plug under the transmission. The drain plug in the converter is harder to get to. Center Housing. Use 134D. No filter to change. Drain plug is inline and behind the transmission drain plug. Hydraulic. Travelers Premium is a cheap solution. Check your manual. I think you have two hydraulic filters. Power Steering. I think you'll need an OEM filter. I don't remember if Napa sells one. Use 134D in the P/S pump. Coolant is a big deal. You need to check your coolant for Nitrite level and freeze protection. Probably best to dump in and start fresh. Don't use the new ELC coolants. This is old tech. You need a coolant with Sodium Nitrite. Fleetguard makes a good nitrite coolant as does CAT. CAT calls theirs DEAC. I forget what name Fleetguard is using these days. Fuel Tank. You might want to pump out your tank and make sure there's not anything floating around or laying on the bottom. You won't believe what accumulates in there. 2-3oz of synthetic 2cyl oil per 5 gallons fuel helps keep your injectors clean. Best forums for help with your service and repair issues is this forum and Yesterday's Tractors Ford forum. There's a lot of good folks out there willing to help you if you have an interest. I'm sure I'm forgetting something but that's plenty to get you going.
Here's a link to Wix filters by application. http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/Applications.aspx?Section=1 I knew I'd forget something. You need air filters. They're in the link. My Baldwin BT5 transmission filter was incorrect. Looks like you need a BT260 or a Wix 51664.
Wow.... Check Break.... thats fantastic. Thank you so much for your time! Really, appreciate it. Sounds like I should stock up on Travelers premium and 134D (Valvoline VV813 is the preferred stuff?) Radiator flush recommended (like old truck... with a garden hose, or no?) before I put all new in? And assume that would be a 50/50 mix with the DEAC full strength stuff? I'm not putting hundreds or thousands of hours on this so I would rather spend more money for the best fluids since she is an old well used machine... You said Transmission filter is a BT5? I see that is the oil filter from Baldwin... is there a gold standard on oil filters for these?
No flush, just drain and replace. 50/50 mix distilled water and DEAC coolant. Walmart sells distilled water for under a buck a gallon. Valvoline is the preferred Ford transmission fluid. I don't trust CNH's OEM Ambra fluid anymore. Baldwin is a very good filter. So is Donaldson, if you can find them. Wix is fine for what you need. Napa Gold is made by Wix. I screwed up on the BT5. Make that a BT260. It has been suggested to me that filters that don't sell in volume are likely made by one manufacturer and all the others paint it their color and claim it's the best. I don't know what's true, but you can't go wrong if it says Baldwin or Donaldson and Wix will serve you just as well. Sorry for the bumb steer on the transmission filter. Messicks has OEM, but they're probably 2x the price and made by Wix or Baldwin.
I actually used your advice on Baldwin and their site is great. Lists all the filters I need here: https://www.baldwinfilters.com/port...ine=38240&equipment=Loaders&manufacturer=FORD Pretty much ordered them all on ebay but the oil filter. I'll probably do Wix (or NAPA gold for that). Thanks a ton again!
For the coolant.... the manual syas to drain the radiator and block, shut the cocks again and then add 26.75 fl Oz of chemical unhibitor FW-15 (Ford Specification ESN-M99B169-A)... then do the 50/50 of water and Ford Antifreeze. Should I do that as well or just the DEAC 50/50?
When the manual was written, everyone was using standard ethylene glycol. FW-15 is the Ford brand of sodium nitrite additive you mix with standard antifreeze to make it into diesel engine coolant. The additive helps reduce cavitation which causes pinholes to form in your cylinder wall. Now that the antifreeze manufacturers manufacture a diesel engine coolant with all the additives in it, all you have to do is monitor the condition of your antifreeze (with test strips) and add the FW-15 or Nalcool/Pencool or Nitrite recharge of another name and you're good to go. Too much is just as bad or worse than not enough. If you have access to DEAC, it will last for years and years before you have to add anything to it. DEAC may be available in a premix (50/50) form but I'm too cheap to pay Caterpillar prices for distilled water so I buy the 100% formula and thin to 50/50.
I'd use it for an hour, drain the engine oil and antifreeze. Antifreeze into a clean white bucket. If there's no sediment that settles in the bucket then refill with new. If there's sediment, then refill with rainwater and run it another hour and drain, repeat until there's no more sediment. Obviously do this above freezing only. All the other fluids, change the filters and leave the fluids alone if possible. I'd run conventional (non synthetic) 15w40 and use a block heater for an hour before starting if it's below 30 outside. Run the fuel low a few times to get rid of all the old stale fuel, and be aware that most diesel includes bio diesel these days (at least in wi, mn) and bio starts degrading in hours... I'd consider converting to a small plastic tank for quicker turnover if you're using this thing very rarely, and very little at a time. The reason I wouldn't change the hydraulic fluid, the first hose you break will leak a good portion of that on the ground, so wait till you blow most of the hoses before draining all the old fluid. The exception would be if you have water in a powershift transmission fluid, change that before working it.
Thanks Check Break, thats what I figured about the coolant but wanted to be sure. Thankfully radiators arent that expensive on ebay if this one goes south. I assume, Delmer, that you are suggesting rainwater because of the chlorine or flouride and stuff in city water sources? Would I be OK using my hose as I am on a well and we have virtually nothing in that water? Was considering a block heater too, never installed one but thinking that wont be too tough... and you say conventional... not even a synthetic blend? Thats interesting, love the advice from people who know what they are doing as I normally would just put the best /most expensive stuff in and figure that would be the right thing to do.... Will be easier to do the tranny service in the summer too. Will have to look at the fuel tank and see how hard replacing it is... you guys know if theres a drain plug or something on the bottom or will I have to siphon it out to drain? Diesel around here in Vermont I think is typically just the on-road low sulphur diesel I would use, not alot of bio-diesel that I have seen here (which is odd considering its VT and they are very 'green' here). The fuel filters are not that expensive so I can just replace that more often and add the 2cyl oil as Check Break suggested.
On another note... all the ssites I have seen so far deal with older tractors... these 'newer' backhoes dont have alot of resources I can find for cab parts. Any leads on where to find stuff like that? I need a door handle, a window latch, the entire wiper motor and blade assembly, and some other stuff that is not a necessity but would be nice like cracked plastic pieces. And what about glass? The only glass I see on ebay are the panels I DONT need. The windshield is serviceable but cracked in several places all the way across, and one lower panel I may just leave is spidered. I am excited to start working on it as soon as the shipper gets it here, thanks for all the input guys!
I like rainwater because it is soft, not many minerals, and slightly acidic, so it makes a nice flush that you can run a couple hours, or weeks and drain the sediment out. Your well water is probably fine if it's not terribly hard. Where you get into trouble is adding a gallon every couple of days because something is leaking, that will plug a radiator up with hard water deposits. One time flushing won't really matter in the scheme of things. I'd use conventional because you might change it annually, because you won't get the hours to change it more often. It will be dirty, but the oil will not be broken down, where a synthetic would last longer. If you're going 24/7 and oil changes are downtime, then synthetic allows a longer change interval, and save money. Year old synthetic with the same dirt isn't going to protect the engine any better than year old conventional, they'll both be dumped just because they're a year old. The dealer might have some parts and glass, the wiper and possibly latches will be cheaper if you can match the names and numbers off them and order outside the dealer. The glass can come from a glass shop, don't know which would be cheaper. Your tank might be fine if you keep up with it. The plastic tank is a last resort if problems come up, or you really want to keep fuel fresh.
I have maintained my 655c for 20 years, and have never had a major breakdown of any sort. Any green or yellow Ford/New Holland dealership can get you most parts for that unit. Their oil, transmission and hydraulic filters are pretty close in price to aftermarket. For the engine oil, one can use a standard Ford older v-8 engine filter either PH-1 or PH-8a . They are so cheap you can change them every 50 hours. The cross references are all over the net. You definitely don't want to change the fuel tank or radiator unless they are shot. Nightmare project. The transmission and rear axle and hydraulic system take the same hydraulic fluid. I use an anti wear AW 20 weight. And yes, hydraulic fluid usually gets changed by a broken hose. You should get a rubber dust cup for the air filter housing. They are always hard and non working after a few years. This unit has a great operators manual, far better than anything put out by John Deere. All you need to know to keep it going is in there. As for draining the fuel tank, on the bottom of the engine on the passenger side there is a fuel shut off and here you could open the tube and flush out anything. Never did it because the engine has a glass water trap and a separate filter. For air filters, Napa has always been more than the dealer. There is also a power steering filter rather easy to change, inside the pump housing on the engine. I would use standard oil. I used Delo for years and now the $9.00 gallon Walmart diesel engine oil - delivered. Can't beat that and the specs are good according to my oil lab samples. You certainly cannot judge diesel engine oil by color. The samples I send look like coal tar but the lab says all is good on all points. Typically, my oil goes 2x or more the recommended change time. Would like to know how much you paid and how many hours? Been a great unit and outdigs my Deere 710d which have a monster 6 cylinder engine and weighs several thousand pounds more.
So, its been a little while since I posted because I JUST got the darn thing delivered today... what an Odyssey. I was successful with your help locating and have all the filters bought and most of the fluids that you all recommended. Having trouble finding the 134d, though. I may swing by the local Ford truck dealership later today and see if they have it. Auto parts store could get me the Valvoline VV813 but only in a 5 gallon $120 bucket. I was just going to change the filter for now as suggested and maybe look at it more closely in the summer warmer months but figure I will need to add fluid there if I replace the filter, just have to find it. I plan on at least going home today, running it for a little while and doing the engine oil, that 'seems' like the easiest. I did get an owners manual which indeed is VERY helpful, so I now have that and the much bulkier (and probably wont personally use repair manual). Check Break, you said earlier no flush, just replace coolant. Delmer suggested a flush... is there any chance of harm with that flush or were you saying it just wasn't necessary? I plan to probably do that next unless I shouldn't with a 50/50 mix and try to locate test strips. I did get the CAT coolant for this that 'should' last a very long time but they didnt have any test strips. Are they available online somewhere? 690elc... thanks, thats all great info too! Any leads on where to find a rubber dust cup? I wont change the air filters until I locate one of those... there is really no dealers around here so I pretty much have to order my stuff online. I think (hope) I got a good deal on this at $8,500 plus $150 I spent renting a car and gas to go down and see it and another $600 on delivery. With almost $300 in filters and fluids and a couple misc. things I am sitting at $9,500 delivered and all I need to do the fluids and filters changes (minus tranny fluid... just have the filter). It has 7500 hours roughly. Cracked windshield I would like to replace and a rear wiper motor assembly and a couple door latches... otherwise she appears all there, usually starts right up and doesn't really smoke at all, though the cabin with the doors shut smells a little smokey (but I dont know whats normal)... but i dont think exhaust is getting in there based on engine and muffler placement I dont think it could, right? I will try to post more as I get things done. Thanks again for everyone's input and help. Much appreciated!
"usually starts right up and doesn't really smoke at all, though the cabin with the doors shut smells a little smokey (but I dont know whats normal)... but i dont think exhaust is getting in there based on engine and muffler placement I don't think it could, right?" Carbon monoxide is odorless , but it comes along with smokey smells. You best find the cause of the odor while you still can.
I said to flush it only if you see sediment in the old coolant, it's up to you, but I'd never put new coolant in without flushing. I've drained coolant, flushed, and then put the same coolant back in. CO is not as much of a concern with a diesel as with a gas engine. You don't want to breathe diesel exhaust, it's bad for you for other reasons.
Maybe oily, or hot oil dirty smell best describes the smell... more of an odor, no visible smoke and doesn't smell like anything is on fire or anything just smelly. Smells the same as when I take the engine covers off many hours later during a cold day, same smell, so maybe its just dirty old diesel hot oil engine smell? Not overpowering just smelly. Looking at the manual I had another question as it says to clean and/or replace fuel injectors... is that something I should look into or if its running let it be? And is it the smame deal with older cars where they say dont clean the engine, you may cause something to start leaking more... or can I clean the engine... its dirty. Looks like this forum allows pics... I could post a few....
So, more pressing question now (we are just starting to have fun!) in my manual it says to open the valve if water can be seen in the glass bowl. Looks like liquid in there however, the drain plug lever is NOT on the bottom like it shows in my manual, its on the top. When I twist it (hard to do) a quarter turn the liquid came out the top in a slow steady drizzle (I took a pic and turned it back off) and it smells like fuel and is a light greenish color with a yellow tint. Anyone know why the valve is on top instead of the bottom? Seems weird and inefficient if it was done hat way on purpose or I am doing something really wrong?
So... crap. Problem identified... not solved. I got under there with a Flashlight and found that the drain plug had been broken off flush with the base, then someone put a new drain plug up where a screw (bolt) should be... which costs almost $25 just for a screw by the way. So, I plan on disassembling the whole thing (might as well do a fuel drain at this point too) and see if I cant get the plug end drill out of the base and save myself over $80 just for that part. I am going to take a trip down to a dealer south of me and get all the gaskets and O-rings and washers and stuff so I'll have them to re-assemble. Fun times. As far as the tranny fluid, this is all they had online, is this what I want? https://partstore.agriculture.newho.../index.php?target=products&product_id=2473975 . Last question for now, the manual says the inner air cleaner should only be serviced by your dealer. Is that a huge no-no to replace that? Cant see why based on parts diagrams, but I dont want to open a can of worms I cannot close either...
Yikes !! $24.90 a gallon. Not in my world. There are cheaper alternatives.
Since I am not putting alot of miles on this (very small farm) I am hoping to get away with just replacing thew filter and adding 'something' to what is needed to fill back up... If I were doing a whole fluid refill and needed 5 gallons it would be rough... but everyone is saying this is the area you CANNOT use regular old tranny or hydraulic fluid for and I cant find anything other than the TSC Travellers brand multi purpose ATF that claims to meet M2c-166H or M2C-138CJ thats still $18 a gallon and isn't rated so highly
I'm a little behind here and just catching up. You're going to get many different opinions. It's up to you whether you flush. As was said, if there's sediment in your coolant, then flush. I've never had that problem probably because most Ford owners know the penalty for failing to maintain their coolant. I would not do a chemical flush. Walmart distilled water is very cheap. If your coolant has rust particles or other sediment in it, fill up the radiator with distilled water and run it at operating temperature for an hour, then drain and refill, repeating the process 2x or 3x. The distilled water should look better with every flush. If it doesn't, it's not going to get any better and I'd cross that bridge when and if I came to it. Otherwise fill with 50/50 DEAC and distilled water. Test strips are available at NAPA. The last ones I bought were a Cummins Fleetguard product. The Ford dealer won't have 134D. Valvoline is expensive but it will last you many years as long as it doesn't get condensate contamination. A suggestion was made previously that you use hydraulic fluid in the transmission and center housing. Do not do so. You need UTF (Universal Tractor Fluid) that meets or exceeds 134D in the transmission and at least a UTF that is recommended for use in applications requiring 134D in the center housing. Your machine has wet brakes and you need a friction modifier in your center housing fluid. Friction modifier may not be found in standard hydraulic fluid. I run 134D in both compartments because there may be a swapping of fluid between the transmission and center housing. There's no reason to risk your transmission for $100. Your don't know the amount of wear on your running gear and you don't need it wearing out prematurely. You should remove your outer air filter and take a look at the inner filter. If the inside of the outer filter is dirty and/or the inner filter looks dirty, replace the inner filter. No use dusting your motor for the cost of an inner air filter. It's your second line of defense if the outer air filter is not maintained properly. A glass shop that supplies truck glass can make you a replacement panel. Auto glass is probably better than the OEM panel. We use it in all our CAT air cabs. A fraction of the price of OEM and a much better product. If you poke a hole in it, a piece of tape will allow you to keep going until you get time to replace the panel. $10,000 is a good price if she gives you 500 hours of service before something major happens. Clean air, clean oil and good coolant will get the most out of your investment and avoid premature failure. The admonition that only the dealer can service your air filter is BS. You have to pay attention. If you don't install the air filters correctly, they will not seal and you'll dust your motor. Just take your time, use a flashlight or reading glasses if your eyes are like mine. Observe how the filter is installed and make sure it seals when you replace it. No big deal. You can run Travelers Premium (@ $40/5 gal) if your transmission and center housing is full of condensation (turns fluid milky white) but you'll need to drain and refill with 134D ten to forty hours later. If your fluid looks like new fluid, it's your call whether you change it or not. You won't be able to determine whether it's 134D equivalent or something less. I like safe rather than sorry. You won't have any fun rebuilding your shuttle or brakes. Now that you have an owners manual check the capacities section. I think the transmission and center housing will take the better part of 15 gallons if you drain the converter. You can run Travelers Premium in the hydraulic system.
All good stuff. I bought ALL the filters (including BOTH air so I will put them both on) except I saw there's a hydraulic system breather filter which is like a ring or short pipe. Mine is dark brown almost black. It says to clean with 'appropriate' solvent... dont know what that is but I am cleaning it best I can. Is that something that I should replace ($25) or just clean it and the area around it and it will be good? It was caked with sand in there (which makes sense because the history of this machine was used at a beach) all around the outside of this breather filter, now I have to play 'Operation' to clean that sand out without knocking any down in the reservoir tank... probably will try to shop vac it out and wipe it clean. I think I am going to drain the reservoir tank and clean the other inline outlet screen under the tank if its easily accessible too... get any dirt I can easily see in the tank washed out with new hydraulic fluid and re-attach the bottom feed tube and clean outlet screen then fill it back up. I agree with not skimping and cutting corners. Especially since this will sit for long periods of time I really like the no-condensate damage feature you spoke of with the Valvoline. You said it was about 15 gallons including the center housing... I am confused here by what you mean... is that the rear axle? Would I have to drain the rear axle as well when draining the transmission fluid? I am including a pic of the capacities chart from my manual. Getting enough 813 for the power steering pump too and I have that filter as well. I will need to check tranny dipstick when I get home, I havent yet. If it is milky white I assume I need to do a complete service ASAP? If it isnt and looks ok, whats the best course of action given I will probably only use this machine a handful of times until the spring. Should I suck it up and still do a complete service or just replace the tranny filter and add what I need to for fluid to make it full, or put in an additive for it sitting all winter and do the service in the spring or let it be altogether until the spring? I am going to try and (in order) do the air filters, clean out the hydraulic reservoir and filters and get that filled back up, then run it probably for an hour and then do the engine oil and filter and the coolant system while its hot, by tomorrow... I hope. That I think will be a good start.
From the dealer closest to me.... "As for the 134D hydraulic oil, we no longer have that product here. We carry the Case branded Hy-Tran Ultraction which is a blend of New Hollands 134D oil and the Case HY-Tran hydraulic oil. It covers both brands requirements for the hydraulics and gives the New Holland side the additional water absorbing ability that the 134D did not have but the Hy-Tran did have. "
I'm not familiar with HyTranUltra but you can see the same info online that I did. It's the correct fluid if you own a Case. Looking at Valvoline specifications, Valvoline works in place of 134D but it doesn't claim to work in place of HTU. From what the dealer told you, HTU is recommended for hydraulics and it has additional water adsorbing ability. I saw the same thing online. The dealer is leading you to infer it's also a good Ford transmission fluid. The dealer didn't specifically say that and I believe that statement would be wrong from what I've seen online. As for HTU being a blend of 134D and HyTran, I found nothing to support that statement. When you get a chance, replace the breather filter. It will last your lifetime. According to your capacities picture, you need 15.58 gallons to fill both the transmission and center housing. The center housing is the casting behind the transmission. It contains the ring and pinion. The axle housings bolt to the center housing. When you drain the center housing, you drain the axle housings. If the trans or center housing oil is dark or milky, replace it. You can fill with $40/5gal Travelers Premium and leave it in there over the winter. Let it mix with any deposits and drain it in the Spring when you have 20-40 hours on it. Replace the transmission filter now and again in the Spring. If the oil is amber in color change the filter, run for a few minutes and add oil to operating level. Change the oil (to 134D) and filter in the Spring. If your hydraulic fluid is dark and you get a little crazy, you can crack some hydraulic hoses and drain what you can out of the hydraulic system. If your hydraulic fluid is amber in color, then just change the filters. Hope that helps.
So just to be clear you are saying that I can use travelers premium in the transmission as basically just a flush until the Spring? You had said not to use that but I assume as a short term solution and a flush that that would be OK? Theres no travelrs premium UTF so I want to make sure you mean the hydraulic oil...
Yes. You can use it to replace the old oil for a low use period, leave it in over the winter, and replace it in the spring with a UTF that meets or exceeds 134D. If it looks good when you drain it in the spring, if you capture it in a clean bucket and take care to keep out any other contaminants, you can can reuse it in your hydraulic system and only be out the cost of your labor. TRAVELLER Premium Universal Tractor Trans/Hydraulic Fluid is a specially formulated, premium multigrade (SAE 10W-30) fluid blended with the highest quality lubricating oils and the most technologically advanced additive system. Provides superior protection and performance for modern farm equipment employing a common sump to lubricate hydrostatic transmissions, differentials, wet brakes, hydraulics and final drive gears. Formulated with the latest available technology Low Temperature Pumpability Protection Against Brake Chatter Excellent Thermal Stability Greater Protection Against Gear Wear RECOMMENDED FOR THE FOLLOWING APPLICATIONS: ... FORD NEW HOLLAND M2C41B, M2C48C, 53A, 86B, 134D, C, B, A ... . Specification Description CountryofOrigin: Made in USA Performance Standards: JD J20-C / CAT TO-2 Package Quantity: 1 Flash Point: 400F Container Type: Pail Type: Tractor Hydraulic Fluid Container Size: 5 gal. Part Number: 526929 Brand: Traveller
Updates... Did both Air filters. Easy. Only glitch was that the inner looked like it had a sponge O-ring that went against the wall and the rubber O-ring built in to the filter. The manual doesnt show that in the breakout and I think the built in O-ring will give a really good seal so I installed it like that. They had a date from early 2011 on them so 8.5 years is long enough. They didnt look nearly as bad as I would have assumed they would, quite good actually... replaced them both anyway. It did not have dust 'cup' on that bottom short pipe piece as shown in the breakout sketch but I ordered one. Not sure really what that even does in reality. Did the Oil change and that went smooth, nothing alarming in the old oil. Used Delvac 15-40. The old filter was a NAPA gold but not the same part number and significantly shorter that the one I got to replace it. Replaced the hydraulic filter and alot of fluid leaked out while i refinished and repainted the filter housing. The fluid was clear and looked really good. There were some rather larhe chunk of stuff (a couple looked clear like small broken pieces of glass) and a couple very small rock that looked like crushed grey stone.... but not sediment, no dirt and clear fluid, the filter (as expected as it is immersed in oil its whole life) looked very good too. I cleaned up the breather filter area next to the fill cap and the breather filter itself. I had to order a new breather filter so I'm waiting on that. Guy at Tractor supply has a 555 and suggest for the extra $6 I actually get the Travellers UTF in the 'Renew" bucket. He said its the same as Travellers premium but has some conditioning additives for wear and seals.... figured it couldn't hurt. Replaced the coolant.... the old coolant looked really good except it was green.... so I flushed it quick and replaced with DEAC 50/50. The DEAC is pinkish... hopefully this isnt the newer ELC stuff as I have been warned on here about, but nothing I can do now... the correct DEAC is in there at 50-50 and I need to pick up some test strips now. I opened the front grate and l;eaned out the bottom radiator and the next one was caked pretty good with gummy oily dirt so I sprayed engine degreaser on it and rinsed it off with a hose so air could flow better. Topped off the tranny and center housing, both clear liquid so I will have to change those in spring but they looked very clean too. The power steering was very low. It had red fluid in there so its either 134D or maybe even the wrong stuff... didnt look good. I have the filter and will be pulling off the housing tonight to do a complete change with 134D in that at least. No large O-ring available so I have to hope the one on there is in decent shape or she will have to sit for a few days while I order one and only be out a couple liters of 134D. Tonight I also plan to remove the fuel filter assembly and re-build it with new gaskets, clean everything up and repaint the metal parts and drill out that broken off stud on the bottom so I can use the water separator properly (see above post and pic). The machine smokes alot at first and then moderately steady once warmed... I dont know whats normal or not. The muffler is shot and filling the engine compartment with smoke that wafts a little into the cabin. Made a separate post asking folks where to get a muffler. Ebay by far is the cheapest at $315 but I cant spend another $315 dollars on this thing right now. Straight pipe with inline muffler is $100 but I would have to jury rig an "L" pipe fitting and another 90 degree to get it in the sheet metal hole and then over an into the manifold so dont think thats worth it and its not the proper muffler. Running OK for now, but smokey. At some point probably in the spring will have to take a look at some other stuff to address this... maybe new plugs? Fuel injectors (at least cleaned)?
I picked up a new muffler and tink-tink-tink rain flapper at Tractor Supply for about $50 if I remember correctly. My 555 has a "custom made" exhaust riser coming up from the exhaust manifold in place of the correct S pipe. It was that way when I got it, and it makes the muffler on my machine sit at a weird angle.
Replaced the coolant.... replaced with DEAC 50/50. The DEAC is pinkish... hopefully this isnt the newer ELC stuff ... . DEAC is pink. It's not ELC. CAT ELC is red. The power steering was very low. It had red fluid in there... . Probably ATF. Pull the lines off the cylinders and drain as much of it as you can. Replace with 134D. The machine smokes alot at first and then moderately steady once warmed... Add some synthetic 2 cycle oil to the fuel. Your injectors need help. I use Schaeffers. 3oz to 5 gallons. The muffler is shot and filling the engine compartment with smoke that wafts a little into the cabin. Made a separate post asking folks where to get a muffler. Ebay by far is the cheapest at $315 but I cant spend another $315 dollars on this thing right now. You must have the horizontal muffler. They look abysmal. Must be hand made in some 3rd world shop. The horizontal mufflers are about $100 but I don't think you have the correct manifold for this. If you can find some Schaeffers 2 cycle, blend or full synthetic, online, give it a shot before you start cleaning injectors.
While you're in the front, lube the pump driveline. You want to do this every 50 hours or so or a u-joint will let go and take out your radiator, pump drive and sometimes the pump input shaft.
Not sure what this even is....? What/ where is the pump driveline?
Check out: (07) Hydraulic Systems, (05B01) - HYDRAULIC RESERVOIR, COOLER & PUMP DRIVE, Part No. 41 https://www.messicks.com/nhc/65229 You can figure out a lot by perusing the online parts diagrams.
Anyone know if the oil pan is steel or aluminum? Looking at getting a magnetic heater, but it wont work on aluminum... any suggestions as to a heater type or brand? Theres what appears to be a block heater of the correct type (part number I need is 3rd listed under MPN) but not sure if this is accurate and/or if its hard to install? https://www.ebay.com/itm/5B611-Fros...377638?hash=item4b6d5d4a66:g:PKYAAOSwru1dtMVg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5B611-Fros...377638?hash=item4b6d5d4a66:g:PKYAAOSwru1dtMVg https://www.ebay.com/itm/Frost-Plug...ctor-86518685-86578374-86590140-/183888906894 They are only 600 watts.
Anyone know if the oil pan is steel or aluminum? Pan is steel. I've never seen an aluminum Ford oil pan.
So... I had someone interested in buying this come look at it today. They drove it up the tsreet a ways and back and got it good and hot (too hot). Smoke was coming out of the oil exhaust pipe underneath and it was hot! At first thought there may be a mouse nest in the air filter, removed it and that looked OK. While it was running he removed the dipstick and oil splashed out like it was under pressure. I have never had any issues with it getting too hot but I also have never run it up and down the street, just slowly around the property. He couldnt figure out why it was smoking a little through the oil exhaust or why the oil splashed out of the dipstick. The coolant was fine... any thoughts?
My 655 overheated and blew steam and smoke from the tube lately and I discovered the gasket on the radiator cap was rotten. [My last guess for the problem!] New cap fixed that. But I never had oil come out the dipstick tube. sounds overfilled. Make sure no coolant is in the engine oil, that's a terminal disease. John deer sells oil test kits for 15$, and others. Might want to do that. The 655 does not have a coolant reservoir, so they need lots of room at the top as a expansion space. If you fill it like an auto to the top, you will be blowing anti freeze out the tube. Driving it slow or on the road has no bearing on the temperature of the engine. Work the hoe hard for an hour, thats the test.
Interesting. So this is what it looks like. The gasket on the cap doesnt look too bad, maybe? But here is the other thing.... when I looked up the PN (E2NN810AA) its says 7psi. A tractor parts site says the cap should be (I think...) an E2NN8100BA and thats 13psi. The oil looked a little too full. Ground is also not exactly even but close. I drained about a half quart at most and now its reading at just under the top side of 'safe'. Looking down into the radiator I can see the fluid clearly at the bottom of the neck... is that too full? Any of this or anything else jump out at you? I have ran the hoe for over an hour straight several times and never had it get that hot, its hot but not THAT hot, and its never blown smoke from the oil exahust pipe like it was when it was really hot either. I've also never pulled the dipstick when it was running so I dont know if that was happening before.
Also, when I run it I tend to keep the throttle about half way, just barely past the implement icon on the throttle slide sticker... I never need to increase it , it also seems to work the same as pressing the gas. If they floored it or ran it fast for a quarter mile back and forth would that be what you'd normally do or would you not have it constantly at that high or an rpm for that long straight? The guys were nice enough and definitely knew what they were doing but wondering if this particluar hoe isnt supposed to be at max RPMs for that long, maybe? I just have had no issues before today.... cant figure it out.
Odd picture of the dipstick. Oil should be on the stick from tip to safe. You have a dry section. My hoe has 7800 hours and I drove it up a mountain 2 miles from 2400' elevation to 2900' and there was some smoking or steam from the pipe, but no issues otherwise. That was full throttle with a bad radiator cap, and yours looks okay. You may have a bad thermostat. Fairly easy to get to. Change it. If you have not removed the front grille and tilted down the hydraulic and transmission coolers lately, that may be the issue. They need pressure washing often. see your book
Theres no dry spot, its just glare and the oil is fairly new and still a little brown. I'll look into a thermostat tonight, would that make it run hot?
Could a crankcase breather be plugged or need servicing?
I don't see anything to worry about. You have some hot smoke coming out of the crankcase vent tube? if it feels hot, I'd guess that there's some steam in it, you should be able to get some condensation if you put a piece of cold steel in the hot blowby, that would show it's water/steam. If it was antifreeze it would be serious, but water is nothing to worry about, you just haven't used it enough. If it's not leaking coolant, blowing steam, or using coolant, then don't worry about the coolant or radiator cap or coolant level.
I run my 655 up a steep hill between properties at the 3500' elevation for 3 miles on the road and it is pedal to the floor all the time. The land here is so steep that one leg grows longer than the other. So, no, the guys didn't do any harm. I don't know if yours has a turbo. Mine does not. If yes, never shut it down hot, give it a long high idle. On mine the crankcase vent tube and the radiator overflow go to the same area, so when mine blows "steam" I am never certain which one it is. How many hours on yours? these tractors get tired around 8000 hours. The 655 is prone to a transmission overheat because the three cooling radiators are stacked together and hard to get to without some wrenching. The fins suck in all of the dirt your are working and then any small leaks pack it in the fins. Drop the grille and tilt the tranny cooler down to get to the HYd cooler and then radiator. My 710e John Deere never overheats and the coolers stay clean, dont quite know why. My 690e excavator also has never had the radiator touched in 20 years. But the Ford needs love there. Here is a video of the 690c pushing over forest fire killed pine trees if anyone needs some entertainment:
Keeping this thread alive, I am newly in the same position as Barty Just acquired a 655c. PS fluid was low and hydo was low as well. Came with a new bucket of Agri+Plus and from reading this thread I regret using it to top my hydro fluid off. From what I've gathered, the new to me 1st time maintenance shopping list is as follows: FLUIDS- 40 Gal of 134D equivalent (Trans+Hydro+P/S) 2 Gal of DEAC 2 Gal of Distilled H2O 3 Gal of 15w-40 (takes 9 quarts) 1 Gal of 2 stroke oil (2-3oz per 5gal diesel) FILTERS- H9075 Baldwin Hydro Filter BT260-10 Trans Fitler PT548 Power Steering Filter Coolant test strips BT111/PH1/PH-8a Oil Filter BF825 Fuel Fitler PA2431 Outer Air PA2432 Inner Air Generic Breather for Hydro System?
Welcome to HEF, Dmash !
Thank You! Got mine for 7k. Multi function CA 93in loader. Bucket seems like 12in wide? A few broken/missing glass pieces. Runs very nice. 4WD too. A couple lines look to be seeping. Ones of the stabilizers makes noise as it moves as if the seal was dry or maybe slightly bent? I've used them maybe 12 times and only heard that the last 2 times. Steering has a slight whine. Fluid is topped off and sometimes the steering wheel seems to ratchet when steering as if its skipping teeth. Almost seems to only do it when moving at higher throttle. Entry door was broken at hinge and welded back on to bracket so it won't close by 1-2 inches. Seat looks rough. Tilting loader down(moving stick to right) is more difficult than any other direction. A bunch of the plastic window levers are broken in some way. Left side tail light doesn't function. Cab fan system is functioning but useless in 80-90 degrees. Heat seems to work. Tires are worn to maybe 40%-60% average. I was a auto mechanic for 7 years but never anything like this. Practiced digging a trench around the driveway to install a rock wall and went through about 10 gallons ( 5 of leftover kero which ran nice) Plan to prep 18acres of over grown farm land to build 4 houses. Think it should meet all my needs. Thats the bio of the machine. Really enjoyed the activity this thread had last year. Thanks!
So its a month later, Replaced outer air filter, oil change and filter, fuel filter, trans filter, replaced most of the green coolant but never hot enough to release the heater core i guess so will do again before winter. Replaced 2 broken glass panels. Cleaned radiator/coolers. Topped off and checked all fluids (except the washer fluid). Then I made an 8 mile journey to the land we bought. The air restriction light on the whole time and could not explain. Its run great for a couple weeks at the house and then this light. Sometimes even at idle. And I've looked at both air filters and "look" clean. But power seemed the same and no smoke so I worked thru it. Broke a rear side window (tree grabbed it off the door glass and swung it so hard it crumbled). Replaced with Polycarbonate. Made my way up hill clearing brush and pushing tiny trees. Trans keeps overheating. I move 50ft, have to stop and run the throttle to cool the trans. This is constant while going up hill. Clearing some brush, my right side steps get pressed up, causing the bucket to slam to the ground and lift me up. Nervously I kill the engine and think. The bucket shifter was basically stuck but I was able to make small movements until the bucket came off the ground. Got it started but Battery seeming to get weak. I make my way down safely. And I've lost my tach signal during all this. I know this is not a brush hog but I didn't really learn that till this week. So I pull the steps off and see the hydro lines slightly out of sorts and possibly routed incorrectly from previous owner. The hydro filter housing has a plastic looking line that seems to be broken but I can't tell where it went so dump line? The are 2 electrical connectors down there, one is plugged into the harness and the other i can't find where it goes or if it for an aux but the inside looks too clean to have been sitting unplugged for 30 years. Bent the stair housing back into shape and reinstalled. Things are working "okay". Battery seeming weaker. I experience the shuttle shifts taking extended time to engage. Soon later, I lose reverse. And eventually forwards. Shut it off, cool, on (weaker) and I have forwards again but still no reverse. Now the battery is dead. Jump it. Runs a bit till I lose shuttle, jump and repeat. Next day, won't jump. Battery sensor seems corroded and broken. I thought it wasn't necessary to start though. I hear 2 relays working when trying to start, and can verify the relays click off if trying to start and switching between gears(to verify its not the neutral switch). Been through a lot this week but could use some tips here. Battery is topped up on water as well.
Wow, I'd start with the simplest thing first. Was it charging when it was running? do you have a working battery warning light? or checked the running voltage? A lot of issues could be the alternator not working so low voltage. First step, charge the battery or replace with a known good one, then see if it starts. If it doesn't crank, then check the battery voltage while cranking or attempting to crank.
Ok so battery sensor connector to harness is broken, will cut those and replace with new connector. Around 5 wires going to positive on starter corroded. 2 with fusible links from what i can see. Lots of previous owner cuts and solders that are blue corroded. Hopefully I'll fix all those shortly and the tach and some others will function normally again. It was charging in the past. I used to get the battery light then have to hit the throttle up to get it to charge which I hear is common. Wish there was some advice on the shuttle shifts and trans heating up. Or the air restriction light? As it heats up it gets worse, eventually even see it at idle. Thanks for the reply!
The shuttle shift might be a bad one. Do you still have the old trans filter? cut it open and take a section out to look for debris, look on youtube for how to do it. Post a pic of any debris you find. What gear are you using it in? The air restriction light should be easy, it's either the light, the wiring, the sensor, or the filter is actually restricted. As long as the filter is intact, and it's not blowing black smoke, then there's no harm in running it. The inner air filter is much smaller surface area, and if that's plugged with soot it will really restrict the airflow, then remove it and see if the light stays off. First, though, I'd get it running at the right voltage, and see what happens then.
Thank you! I am mostly in first. But ran 4th for 8 miles to get it on site. 1% of the time in 2nd. As for the air restriction, I've noticed there's a big obvious sensor above the manifold and then there's also a sensor on the manifold, any idea which one does what? I do have in owner's operator manual and I had purchased the service manual but there's a lot of scams out there and I did not actually get a legible service manual. I've heard there a source for the free files because they should have been supplied by dealers, but have not found a legitimate source. I should have these new cables crimped and soldered in the next 2 hours. hopefully she runs
I guess you're not overheating it by being in too high a gear. The "sensors": is the one on the manifold hooked to a fuel line and a heavy electric wire? that would be a thermostart. The other one if it's one smaller electrical wire, is probably the air filter restriction sensor. You can take the wire off and touch it to ground, it should activate the light, and make the light go out when it's removed from ground.
No the overheating is from facing uphill or driving up the hill. I have to push some brush uphill then back and turn so that i am horizontally level then race the engine until the cooler drops the tranny temp. 30 seconds of push and 3 mins or more of wait to cool. Its very frustrating. Maybe I can run. An extra auxiliary fan to blow heat out instead of sucking it into the engine bay. As for the electrical, had to pull the cav fuel filter setup, not excited about torching wires next to an open fuel system. Had to pull the starter. The solenoid has a corroded Aux positive contact. I took the solenoid apart but I don't know where I can get a contact or a solenoid on a Saturday. Getting that terminal off the positive batt cable looks near impossible, its 13mm in diameter so maybe i can find a new terminal with an inside diameter of 13mm and solder it over the old one. The old one is clean but the eyelet corroded off. Even though its the hottest days this week, winter is getting closer and I hate not being productive because I'm fixing this machine. I really tried to do all the preventative maintenance before the 8 mile trip. Now I'm doing reactive repairs in the dirt.
So the starter contact had broken on the positive side, leaving about half the post and I was able to switch the contacts around so that I had a good long one for the positive connections and I used the short one which still had some good threads to put the one bracket on. The battery sensor harness connection I redid and now my electrical system is all good. As for my transmission overheating it seems to be fine until I start moving leaves and brush and I find that it takes me about five minutes to pull the transmission cooler down and clear out the radiator from all the leaves and I have to do that almost every 10 to 15 minutes. I wish i could reverse the fan direction or install an electric aux fan on the trans cooler. I've been running with the trans dipstick unscrewed so that some heat can vent, and it does. The fluid is darker now so I'm deciding if I should wait for a filter to arrive in 3 days or just dump and fill the fluid today.
also, no idea how to get the air intake cap off that sits on the topside
I ended up installing an electric fan on the transmission cooler. It helps but I still keep burning fluid and overheating doing simple tasks. I am led to believe that I must have a restriction somewhere. I can not find any online source for info on the transmission filter cooling system. Might just have to completely remove all lines. Its about to get messy.
I hate to say it, but the oil overheating is probably slipping too much or some other problem. You might limp it a long time running a little at a time and letting it cool down, or it might not last long. I'd at least look into the pressures, and diagnose it further so you have some idea of what you're dealing with.
It really did run fine uphill and downhill without overheating until the passenger side step got Wedged up and all those lines got twisted and Kinked. I do think that one or two of those lines goes to the transmission I'm just not sure which yet and they may have caused the overheating and may be causing clutch slippage now but I've noticed if I use the tractor in quick bursts for heavy pushing and lifting it doesn't really overheat but if I leave it in gear against something, not moving with no throttle, it'll eventually overheat. So I do think that maybe there's a restriction in a line. Or maybe slippage while sitting but I don't really know the best way to test/inspect. How do I check the trans pressure?
Gotcha. I hadn't re read the whole thread and didn't remember you had a specific reason that the lines were actually kinked. If you like living dangerously, you could rig up an airless paint sprayer, or porta power pump to put some pressure on those lines to try to pop them back out, with appropriate safety gear obviously.
So after some mess, yes those line are kinked with some seepage, but the one line that is trans doesn't look touched. When I got this 655c, I changed the trans filter, after the over heating issue, I dumped the fluid and changed the filter again and almost pulled that washable screen out but seemed to be a gasketed plate so I left it alone since I was out in the dirt. I'm draining the trans and going to pull that screen with the 4 bolts. Also the Hydro reservoir had a small leak on the smaller outlet right at the tank so I drained that and will JB weld. Power Steering motor under the steering wheel is leaking too. Tried tightening the 6 bolts but didn't get much. Pulling that apart and finding some 3ish inch o rings is next. Really hoping this trans screen is my issue. Thank You for listening! It really does help.
ok so found some pieces in the "screen" Look like tiny rod bearing caps. Seem like clamps with a tiny ball tipped pin. Hope I can find a replacement "screen" filter. I tore this one up trying to find what was inside.
Just have to figure which bearing it was, and how serious the problem is...fun
I didn't know there would be a ball bearing inside a transmission like that, lots of needle bearings and bushings usually. Somebody should have a better idea of where it came from. Part of the problem is there just aren't as many Ford people on here as Cat or Case. Do you know if this is a Ford transmission and possibly a third party reverser? that would help you get information on it if it was a common problem in different models.
I called local dealer, said about 7 ball bearings in there, and not cheap. It would be great to know if there was an assembly that I could lift out, but splitting the trans looks unfortunately likely. 9A-24 is the transmission. Seems original. So tempted to just keep driving it. Don't know if the overheating is the bad bearing causing hot clutches or the bearing clamps blocking the screen from flowing fluid. Can't seem to find a replacement screen/strainer on line. Forgot to ask the dealer about it.
Messicks has a lot of stuff and you can access the drawings online. The link below is only one of the trans drawings, and I see several bearings. I would think if a bearing is gone, if the metal didnt destroy ther trans, the stress of the unsupported shaft would. Also creating more friction...heat. https://www.messicks.com/nh/124518?sectionId=1764672&diagramId=2A771CCB-B8BF-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6
Bonjour, j'ai une tractopelle Ford 655c, je voudrais faire le gros entretien mais je n'ai pas le manuel d'utilisation. Je cherche le bouchon de graisse. Savez-vous quelles huiles je dois utiliser et en quelle quantité ? Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
According to google: Hello, I have a Ford 655c backhoe loader, I would like to do major maintenance but I don't have the user manual. I'm looking for the grease cap. Do you know what oils I should use and how much? Thank you in advance for your answers.
I have a 655c and first thing I did was buy the 5 books for EVERYTHING. Maybe $200, but now more like $200 each. what is a grease cap? Use 15/40 normal diesel engine oil. I have had mine for 12 years and decided never to touch the tranny except to top it off and change filters often. Same for the axle. but I recall it takes 15/40 diesel engine oil also or perhaps 75 weight gear oil. Wet brakes are in the axle and when they wear out the tractor is basically done for. Be easy on them. Use heav duty coolant, walmart has it for $12 a gallon concentrated. Change all filters regularly. I have put a ton of small parts on this machine and sometimes I want to push it off a cliff. Just now I have the starter and alternator making problems. Still the best hoe I ever had, and thats quite a few. Where are you in wisconsin?
Dmash, how about an update on that problematic 655c? -If you and the tractor are still alive.