I am hoping for some guidance on a leaking steering cylinder: (1) REMOVING THE CYLINDER... I have been able to loosen one of the steering joints at the end of the cylinder on one side but the other side will not come loose. Attempts to loosen the other side result in the steering cylinder rotating on the loose side...so basically I am not making any progress. Anyone have any guidance to prevent the cylinder from rotating so that I can loosen the remaining side? (2) SMALL BIT OF RUST AT THE END OF THE CYLINDER... I notice one side of the steering cylinders has some rust at the very tip. It is not bad but rather than spend $1,400 for a new one, any guidance on how to deal with that issue? (3) SEAL REPLACEMENT... Any guidance, tips or tricks on how to break down the cylinder to replace seals? Thanks
MJE, Here is a link to a thread that may be helpful to you. HeavyEquipmentForums
Swetz, many thanks for the link!
Which side came loose? If it was the right side you can pull the shaft with the left side attached. You STILL have to get both sides off to replace the cylinder seals. Looking back at photos it looks like the right side joint may come through the hole with the cylinder too if the left side joint was the one that came loose. You just have to unscrew it from the tie rod. I unscrewed the tie rods from the ball joint and left the outer ends attached at the wheels. The problem would be you can't get the rod out without having the right side ball joint off. On mine the right side came loose and the left fought hard. I ended up buying a Clamping Two-Piece Shaft Collar for 2-7/16" Diameter, McMaster Carr number 6436K81 and hand grinding it to fit over the piston. I taped the piston and installed the shaft collar and used a big pipe wrench to hod it to get the left side ball joint loose. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/1312?SrchEntryWebPart_InpBox=6436K81 I had prepared for the worse and discovered they sell generic cylinders on eBay for $500-$650 and I also found the ball joints for around $65. Other than fighting with the ball joints the cylinder was a breeze to rebuild so it was worth the hassle to fight with getting it apart.
I just remembered, you need to cap the hoses when you take them loose or it will siphon all the oil out of the hydraulic tank. If your right side ball end came loose from the steering rod and you need the split collar I ground to hold the piston then PM me and we will work something out.
NH575E, thanks for the response. It was the left side that came loose. I measured the cylinder and it appears to be 40mm so I ordered a 1.5" split collar and will give it a go. Looks like I have leaking wheel hub planetary seals as well so will tackle that before the steering rebuild.
If you can't get it loose by holding the narrow flats on the end that came loose it sounds like a clamp on the shaft is your only hope. Wrap it with a layer of duct tape before installing the split collar. Remember the shaft is the sealing surface so you want to protect it as best you can. I used two 3ft pipe wrenches and had to put pipes on the handles for leverage. The service manual warns about how tight these are from the factory. I don't see the need for them to be that tight and didn't lean on mine when it went back together.
NH575E, thanks for the guidance. I received the split collar today and will attempt to use it tomorrow. Perhaps a silly question but do you know if both ends of the cylinder are right hand threads. The left handside (left side as you sit in the seat) and the one I have loose, is definitely right hand (to tighten) but I wondered if the right hand side is the same or could it be a left hand thread? Anyone else know?
Both sides are right hand threads.
MJE, Take pics and share how this worked out for you, please!
UPDATE: So the split collar was placed on the cylinder and despite multiple efforts to tighten it so I could loosen the ball joint, it kept slipping. I had to cut the linkage between the ball joint and tie rod end. So then it should have been a matter of loosening the 4 bolts holding the steering cylinder in and pulling it all out. Well, the gland and rod pulled out but not the outer cylinder it sits in. Before I start pounding the outer cylinder out, does anyone know if there is some other fastening (bolt, pin, etc) that I missed.
Did you remove the line and adapter fitting on the right side? Too late now but you can unscrew the steering rod from the tie rod end without removing the end. I don't know how the rod can come out without having the right hand ball end removed. When I did mine and was preparing for the worst I found new reproduction cylinders on ebay as low as $500. Apparently this steering cylinder wasn't unique to our tractors.
This is where the right side line and fitting are. It will have to be removed for the cylinder housing to come out. Here is an OEM cylinder for less than $600. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173628525555?hash=item286d110bf3:g:nygAAOSwmUBb4z82 Here is a replacement ball end for less than $60. https://www.ebay.com/itm/402018381632?hash=item5d9a29af40:g:szYAAOSwz4hgXNY1 I hope you didn't cut the tie rod but if you did it's $125. https://www.ebay.com/itm/401867599230?hash=item5d912ced7e:g:K8EAAOSw1O9gJeew
Here is a screen shot of the actual fitting that will prevent removal of the housing.
NH575E, Thanks for this. Yes I did remove the line and fitting but the rod moves out but not the cylinder. I have all the replacement parts to install but struggling to get the cylinder out. I will bang on it today and see if it comes out.
UPDATE: The old steering cylinder is out...was a bit stuck but with some persuasion it came out. The new steering cylinder has been installed. I have new ball joints and tie rod ends to install. Is there a specific order these go in....ball joint to steering cylinder then to tie rod OR tie rod to ball joint then to steering cylinder? Before I get myself in a tangled not anyone have any guidance on the install?
With it all apart I would first install the ball joint to steering rod and then the tie rods. I wouldn't try to tighten the ball joint ends as tight as the factory did. It's not like they are likely to come loose. Glad you got it going your way. I was just about to ask for an update.
I am glad to hear that it is moving forward!