Boy do I hate fuel algae. Never had a problem the first 2 years I owned the machine, but I let it sit for about 5 months this winter and I’m paying for it now. I’ve got an inline filter in prior to the fuel bowl and fuel filter. I cleaned the filter out 4 times last week all within a few hours of one another and decided to drain / strain the tank today. Used the machine for about 4 hrs tonight and cleaned out the filter 2 more times. This sucks!!!!!!!
Did you put any bio-diesel in the tank?
I swear by both of these products https://powerservice.com/psp_product/clear-diesel-fuel-tank-cleaner/ https://powerservice.com/psp_product/bio-kleen-diesel-fuel-biocide/
Really need to thoroughly clean the tank. This is a huge problem on sailboats. Once it 'starts' to be a problem, it will always be until cleaned properly or tanks replaced.
No I did not. I’m not too familiar with Diesel fuel so I was hoping someone would post some tips.
Thank you!
I put algacide and lubricity additives in my fuel when it's delivered. My little tractor had a bunch of algae in it when I bought it. I had to siphon out the tank and suck all the crud out with the shop vac. My shop vac STILL smells like diesel. Haven't had any more problems since I cleaned it out.
You have to kill the algae in the fuel, it just keeps growing until you do. I had an algae problem in the late 80's in my semi. I would have to change fuel filters every 1000 miles or so because they would plug up. I tried everything the truck stops carried. The only thing that worked was a product from Amsoil. I don't remember the name of the stuff. We had a guy back then that sold Amsoil from his house and he was able to get it for me. Good luck Jim
In addition to the other very good suggestions on fixing your algae problem - Never put biodiesel in anything that is not ran hard everyday. FWIW I will never put B10 in any tank that I own again if I can help it. I know now a days pretty much all diesel has some bio in it but try to stay away if you can.
On the bio-diesel subject my supplier in FL told me 5% was as low as was available. No source for pure diesel. The nearest drive up pump to me is 15%. At 5% they don't have to have a warning on the pump but 15% does.
Does off road have it? Never looked to be honest.
The only difference in off road is red dye. The dye can be added or left out by the delivery truck.
Bought both of these today and dumped some in the tank. Hopefully things clear up a bit after a few weeks of use.
Thanks for the kick in the butt to add biocide every fillup. I did skip the antigel since it’s warm.
I don’t know if I would do it every fill up, but would definitely do it if the machine sits for a little while!
Depends on the supplier just like on-road fuel. As NH575E said it's the same fuel just dyed for tax purposes.
Supposedly, the new bio diesel is nothing at all like the old bio diesel, so this might be going away if we get rid of the old bio diesel completely.
Haven't heard about this. I work for the Fed government, bio is the only thing they will let us run in our engines except we put our foot down about the standby generators. We still have the same problems with the bio sitting in the tanks and turning into a sticky goo in the equipment that sits around. But whoever mentioned it in a previous post they are correct, if you run it everyday it seems to work fine, I use it everyday in my 2009 powerstroke service truck and have no problems except in the winter. You MUST use a additive when it gets cold or it clogs up the fuel system. I have been stranded 3 different times over the years till I started using Howe's at every fill-up during the winter.
Update: I put both of these products as directed into my tank on Saturday. I let it run for about 10 minutes to cycle through. I used the machine for about 4 hours today and boy what a difference. I only had to clean out my inline filter 1 time today and I noticed that the algae was not as sticky as it was before. Now it’s more floaty and seems to break up easier. I’m gonna run most of the fuel out and probably drain the rest with a fresh set of treatments. Hopefully this fixes the issue entirely.
Glad it worked for you. Currently have a big generator in the shop that had 4" of algae in the bottom of the tank. Cut the top off because it needed a new one made and steam cleaned the tank and found rust holes in the bottom. Guess the algae was so thick it was plugging the holes shut lol. Now have to make a new bottom for the tank as well.
Double update: ran the machine for another 4 hrs today and didn’t have to clean the filter at all!!! I checked after I was done for the day and it wasn’t even packed full. Thank you Jesus!
Good deal. Nothing more frustrating that fuel issues well maybe hydraulic...
Ii think I would take fuel or hydraulic over electrical lol
Yeah that's an understatement. I was thinking in the fluid world..
Got a 3126 in a 963c that is eating my lunch right now lol. Keeps dropping fuel but can not figure out where. Would like to send an oil sample to check for fuel in oil but machine was just serviced. I have a feeling it is an injector but those really suck to pull and trying to avoid that job lol
Funny I was thinking the exact opposite. Electrical is so much simpler to diagnose and work with. I guess it is what is our strongest suit.
In my boat with twin 6-71ti Detroits I used Howe's Diesel Treat religiously. It keeps the water in the fuel emulsified and improves lubricity. The algae lives at the meeting of water and diesel. No layer, no algae.
Triple update: ran the machine for another 4 hours or so yesterday and I didn’t have to shut it off once! That stuff is a miracle worker! Thanks for all who replied to help.
Don't ever use the Bio Diesel from gas stations. There is so much water and trash in it and will for a tank sludge. It cost me almost 4k after everyone said I had a faulty injector pump. As a mater of fact it was the sludge in the FTank.
We in the UK have been using Bio fuel for quite a while now, the first problem I had was in 2017, when the temperature dropped to freezing ( zero to minus 1) I had the bio content drop out of suspension, it was so thick I could scrape it out with a piece of flatbar, I could run on the fluid part of the diesel if I skimmed it off the top of the Bio part. The other thing I discovered is that gas oil ( thats our red diesel) is not the same as road diesel. Road diesel is to spec EN590, I dont know what EN spec gas oil is. I was told if you have a new machine and you have fuel injection problems, the warranty will be void if you run on gas oil. The next problem I had was in 2020, same again, (I think by this time we were up to 20% bio), again the bio dropped out of suspension but by this time I was adding additives, anti bug, anti wax, gas oil conditioner to make it burn better??. all this at extra add on cost to the basic gas oil. I asked the supplier the question, if the additives are necessary should' nt they be added at source, therefore by my thinking the basic gas oil is not fit for purpose, so another money making scheme. Anyway our Government in their wisdom decided that from April 2022 all construction plant would have to use road diesel, and their thinking was that the construction industry would "absorb" the cost, at present our road diesel at the filling station is £1-90 is per litre so no one can absorb the cost (I believe gas oil is around the 85 pence per litre so quite a price difference). So the bio part has cost everyone dearly for the problems it causes. Good luck all I have not had problems with road diesel so far, fingers crossed!!
Sounds like your "gas oil" or on road diesel is bio, and your red offroad is regular fuel from the refinery. Over here our off road red diesel and the fuel oil they bring to your house for your furnace is the exact same thing. Lucky for us, our "gas oil" or on road is the same oil as the red off road, without the red dye. If they make us go to bio diesel over here, we are in trouble. You might find me going to the dark side with the wmo guys.
In the UK they are different. Domestic heating systems use "burning oil" which is a 28-Redwood viscosity product somewhat similar to kerosene. By comparison diesel is 35-Redwood viscosity and is usually only burned in industrial heating applications. The required furnace burner nozzle would be different dependent on which of the two products was in the tank.
Disagree. Depends on the state. Here in PA sulfur content can be 2000 ppm. https://hbsteeleoil.com/key-differe...sel-fuel-on-road-diesel-fuel-in-pennsylvania/
That article is old. They say in the article that they eventually want it to be the same, I wonder if by now they finally changed it and made all the red dyed fuel the same. They did say Pa is the last state in the east to still use the high sulphur red fuel for heating, and that was back in 2015. What would scare me is they mention they want to put a small percentage of bio in it also. I hate that stuff in equipment that sits around for long periods.
Like I mentioned in my previous post, my supplier in FL says the minimum in most of the US is now 5% BIO. That is for on or off road. He claims they do NOT have to have the BIO disclaimer on pump fuel with 5% or less. The only nearby pump red I can find is 15%. I don't use that. If I buy from a pump I go ahead and buy on road with no disclaimer on the pump other than the low sulfur. NOTHING goes in my machines without lubricity and biocide additives added.
Yes but my point is the additives should be in there when the fuel is delivered, or the fuel is not fit for purpose. The last red diesel I bought was what was called HVO, it is supposed to have an unlimited shelf life and does not require additives and plugging point is minus 31 degrees celcius and it's to EN590 ( according to the fuel supply company) its been in my storage tank since February 2022 and seems to be ok, I only use this fuel on farm work , it cost more than gas oil, but no complaints so far
I often wonder that about gasoline. How much would it cost them to add a little bit of Stabil to the fuel and already have it in there? Some sort of conspiracy or politics going on somewhere I suppose.
Stabil is short lived on the current reformulated heavy oil gasoline products, they are unstable as all get out before hauled to user and go sour in as little as six weeks for the local marine fuels sales here. When had a open hole in the water and attempting to fill with money that tidbit was shared. The Fuel tanks at marinas are not ever topped up, sell to minimal quantity and only order what they consider can sell in a few weeks. No longer recommending keeping boat tanks full and regardless are suggesting minimal fuel for winter storage then add fresh that will burn when dewinterize. Cars that sit a lot show that same distress.
There could be some benefits from additizing RUG/ethanol mixtures with products like Stabil to prevent phase separation under particular circumstances, but there is a lack of credible data. It’s snake oil, according to my colleagues in the fuel biz.
Marinas don't use ethanol based fuel do they? I thought that was a good place to get non-ethanol fuel for lawnmowers and other small engines? Though all gasoline eventually seems to go bad.
Nobody around here gets pure gas except stations that special order. Marinas won’t buy it as is higher dollar. Everything in MO is min 10% ethanol
Take 2 jelly jars and fill halfway with pump gas and add stabil to one and shake up. Then look at them in a month. The one with stabil will still be solid where the one without will already have begun to separate. I hate ethanol.
Already did that several years ago with Marina Gas, they whined when I complained.
And I run a 2012 Harley 103, does NOT appreciate Corn Gas, Mileage varies station to station as to %E. In Corn Gas KS or NB economy drops close to 20% and HEAT Builds.
If you don't mind paying the BOAT TAX.
We used to go to a local small airport to get real gas but to many people heard about it and they shut that down. Now in anything that uses mix I buy that stuff in a can TruFuel for 20 bucks a gallon and haven’t worked on a small engine in about 7 years.