hello i have two 2007 kenworth t800 dumps that have the same problem oil pressure is idle at 20 lb and never climbs with rpm increase bypass valves are ok and one truck i have changed the injector seals reason for my question is i have 15 trucks all 2007 and all have c15 acert engines is anone else having the same issue i have ran uv tracing dye through head and i cannot pin point the leak and compressed air is not helping as well any feedback would help
I'm not sure what you're referring as fuel dilution, are you saying you're getting fuel in the crankcase oil?
Using a bucket of fuel add the UV dye and make it really strong. Run the engine fuel lines into the bucket and prime the system. Now cap the return line at the back of the head. pump up the priming pump as much as you can. with the valve covers off and using a UV light you should see where the fuel is coming from. We had some that took more pressure to make leak so we used a porta press filled with the dyed fuel. We had a engine that constantly had fuel dilution problems even after new injectors. Found the head was machined wrong where the injector goes.
I finally sold all my Acerts, but i did get something in the mail about a class action lawsuit against caterpillar for the horrible track record of the C-13, C-15, C-16's
Fuel into the coolant is typically an Injector sleeve seal failure. (Caused by overfueling / Inlet restriction) Fuel into the Crankcase can be either the Transfer pump seal (Smaller C) or an injector seal pumping fuel into the rocker box.
Have you had your oil sample sent to the lap to check for fuel?
I know this is an older thread, but we recently started using C 15s in our heavy military trucks. Just about all the ones I that are new have fuel in the engine oil. What gives? Thanks for your help in advance. Trever
FYI... Oshkosh advised some of our soldiers this week the following: run high idle if the truck is going to idle for more than 3 minutes. Some of our Detroit 8V-92s do the same.
i may have one with fuel in the engine oil too.
Just great, the water pump is starting to leak. Can I just put a seal kit in it or do I need to spend the big bucks to get a reman?
An engine Serial Number would be a good start.
C15 de mxs22723
For C-15 S/N MXS22723 you need the following parts to overhaul the 336-2213 water pump ($1217.27). 1 x 156-5198 Seal ($20.20). This is the seal that goes between the pump and the Front Timing Gear Housing. It is NOT in the kit. 1 x 267-2839 Kit ($396.23). This kit contains all the necessary bearings, seals, & hardware (including a replacement shaft) required to overhaul a water pump. If you want to look at a complete Reman water pump with a warranty ask for 10R-8660 ($669.51 + $529.73 Core Deposit). Those prices are what my local dealer is charging. Your prices may vary.
Is it true that I can rebuild the pump without removing the whole thing?
Sorry, no. The precooler has to be removed and then a load of parts including one of the oil cooler bonnets before you can get the pump off.
Ok I guess I just need to bear down and do it. They want over 800 for the pump here.
As I said the prices from your dealer may be different. We're a big customer so we get somewhat keener pricing. What I was trying to show was the relative prices of the repair kit vs Reman pump vs new pump.
Will the kit contain gaskets and seals needed for the precooler and any other parts that need to be removed?
Unfortunately not.
Nige, you seem to be familiar with this job. Do you know which aditional gaskets and seals I might need to do the job?
Not at all. I'm simply looking on-line at the Parts Book and the service manual for your particular engine.
Do you have a link to the parts book and or service manual? I have the mitchell manual but its vague.
Send me a PM with your e-mail address.
Thanks
I assumed you received all the info I sent you.
Yup Thanks again