Good morning. At least it is where i live. I have a BD2G dozer (Mitsubishi). The injector pump is a Denso, model number, i think, 11H0069. Underneath that it has 34461-46020. The problems i'm having is fuel getting into crankcase in significant amounts; Little power as if governor is not working. Under load, engine bogs down. If i can't get to clutch fast enough, and it stalls, it is very hard to restart unless i get off the machine and use the manual prime pump. Pump it a few times, it starts but problem is still there. Any ideas?
Hi I definitely do not claim to be an expert on anything…. Least of all injector pumps, so full disclosure before I offer my idea. I’m not familiar with the system on the Mitsubishi dozers, does it have an engine driven mechanical lift pump to pump the fuel up to the main injector pump? It may have just failed letting fuel into the sump and air into the fuel line. May just need replacing and your main pump might still be fine. The smarter guys will be more help than me but that’s a first check for you… see what the other guys say though.
I’m with u JAJ.. That’s where I would start.. If it turns out not to be the supply pump, then it’s the front seal on the inj pump.. depending on the pump mdl..
Thanks! I’ll look at the pump. Not sure if it has lift pump or not. Best I can tell the main part of the pump is near the front and is gear driven. Not sure if this forum accepts pics or not. If so, a picture is worth a thousand words might be helpful to identify what I actually have.
No worries at all! Yes you can post pics but I think you have to have had three post previously. looks you have more than that so should be all good If you can, it would be most helpful to see what you have. I did a google search and found this service manual in PDF. Is this like what you have? If it is, it may be helpful to you. https://thunderbutte.net/BD2G BS3G Service Manual OCR.pdf
It is. I'll review it some more. However, they use terms and symbols i'm not familiar with. In the meantime, I'll take some pics and post. Hopefully, it's a small, easily corrected problem. Thanks tremendously for your help! Jim
That is a Kiki 4 cyl “A” pump.. It has a supply pump w a hand primer on it.. They are known to leak at the seal.. U can remove the sp and put air in the in port and block the out port.. and dunk the sp in a bucket or spray it down w soapy water and look for air at the plunger.. Good luck
Thanks for the PDF manual. I pulled the lift pump. I cleaned, put new crush washers and freed up the plunger (?) in the end of the manual pump. The fitting that routes the incoming fuel from main fuel tank and return fuel, has an orfice very similar to a carburetor that houses the needle valve. Not sure if something is missing or that’s the way it’s supposed to be.
Thanks! If there should be a faulty seal causing the manual pump to leak, what consequence, if any, is there with the operation of the supply pump
Nothing to the supply pump.. but you’ll blow/seize the engine if u don’t find the problem.. It’s also possible that the injection pump itself is leaking fuel into the engine..
Absolutely you need to find the leak and fix it otherwise catastrophic failure is very likely, in very little time if you keep running it! Like Pumpguy says if it isn’t leaking at the supply pump it is coming from your main pump. Jbarker1- Did you do the test Pumpguy said with compressed air and the supply pump while it’s off looking for bubbles?
Thanks!!! I’m looking into it now. I pulled the supply pump off and completely disassembled. One thing I found was the spring is missing that is supposed to be above the plunger of the manual pump. JAJ, the link to the manual is invaluable! Thanks a million! If I’m understanding this correctly, the supply/lift pump on the inlet side has 2 ports. One is from the f tank, the other from the injector return. On the top side of the inlet port there is the plunger/check valve, the (missing spring of which I have no clue what size it is unless it’s the same as outlet side, spring.) I found a roll pin inserted in the bottom of the manual pump which adds about 3/32 to the overall length of the pump. The roll pin seems to serve as a guide for the p/check valve. Since the diagram in the manual doesn’t show a roll pin, I’m guessing, the roll pin plus the absence of a spring is not letting it seal. On the outlet side, there is a plunger/check valve, a spring and the valve support. (All with appropriate crush washers per the diagram.) ASAP I’m going to make those adjustments providing I can find the appropriate spring, then do the air test.
Get a DGK301 gasket kit.. Has all the stuff u need.. On the plunger side of the supply pump, how is the rod sealed.?? An oring or seal.? Try to post a pic..
Ok. Not sure about “plunger side” however here are some pictures. I tried to lay them in order as they go back in. Still not sure the roll pin belongs. The spring I thought was absent is, I think, down inside the manual pump.
I just noticed in the pic I turned the plunger the wrong way on the outlet side.
The hand primer is no good, needs to b replaced..do not reuse it.. The seal is behind the roller(back side) The roller is held in w a clip.. Remove the clip and roller and take another pic so I can see the seal.. The thing you’re calling a roll pin is the push rod for the piston.. It should be solid.. not split like a roll pin..
I saw the ring. I’ll pull it and follow through with your instructions. Sorry, the roll pin is in line with the primer pump in the pic. Primer pump, roll pin, plunger/check valve.
That “roll pin” belongs in the bottom of the hp.. and is never supposed to come out.. Put the piston rod back in the hole and check to see how the seal grabs the rod.. If u did what I asked u to do, and pressure tested it originally, we wouldn’t be going thru this crap.
Yeah if there is a way to check stuff before complete disassembly usually better to start there first. Pumpguy- This system looks like the hand/supply pump bolts to the bottom of the injector pump…. Is that section on the main pump engine oil or diesel lubricated ? If diesel, it looks like the seal in the main pump is the actual leak into the sump problem. Or do you think a leaking supply pump could over pressure the compartment and main pump could still be fine? Just thinking ahead… might save the OP time if it has to go to a Pump shop for an overhaul anyway?
The pump is engine oil lubricated.. The roller on the supply pump is engine oil lubricated.. There is an oil feed line on the side of the pump hsg., which means the engine is pumping oil into the pump and it drains back into the engine from the front of the pump.. So any fuel that gets into the injection pump via the supply pump or bad pumping plungers, is gonna drain back into the engine.. thru the front of the inj pump. SOME of those inj pumps are self contained.. which means u add oil to the pump and “forget about it”.. The pump oil and engine oil never mix.. But not on this one.. Good thinkin tho.!!
Yeah ok thanks for the reply! I have an old fiat dozer that is set up with a pump that is self contained like you describe but is driven by an external shaft. Bit different to the OP’s pump but I think it could be similar. That roller looked like it had been oil lubed but had me curious and thought I should ask. Hopefully it is just this supply pump then!
Hey fellas, I sure appreciate your help and I feel less than because of my lack of knowledge. It just seemed evident to me with the primer pump leaking like it was and the roll pin being in the bottom of the primer pump and the book doesn’t show it on any diagram I found, if someone may have added something to try to make the primer pump work. I have attached a picture of the roller end. I can’t see an o-ring and I’m thinking it is a seal. Reading pump guy and JAJ dialogue I am confused about engine oil coming directly to the lift pump unless it comes directly to the roller side from the main pump cam. There are, on the inlet side two ports. One is the fuel line and the other is the return line from the injectors. There are no other ports. It looks to me like the engine oil comes into the main pump. Pump guy are you saying the supply pump is engine oil lubricated or the inj pump? I have included a pic of the line coming out of the lower part of the inj pump and running to the engine. I put the rod back in and it seems to have some drag on it as it moves back and forth if that is what you mean by “grab” Just thought of it as I was typing: can I plug the primer pump hole, the return line hole, and the outlet hole, put it in the solution as you said, attach my air valve adapter and apply air pressure? Of course I would have to put it back together first. Again, if I’m too much of a pain, just tell me.
Hey all good!!! The whole point of this forum is to share and gain knowledge so you have no reason to feel bad about trying to learn! If we are being genuine in our attempt to gain knowledge and understanding (and “you” sure seem to be)… then the only stupid question is the one not asked. What Pumpguy was saying and I agree, is testing with air before pulling it apart would have told you straight away if you had isolated your problem to the lift pump and possibly saved you a lot of time. I would get the reseal kit for it now anyway but, I think you should be able to test it as you say. Would be good to know it’s your problem Pumpguy can correct me here if I am incorrect? The roller side of that lift pump runs on the cam in the bottom of the injector pump, which is lubed by engine oil fed from the motor that returns to engine sump. So if the lift pump is leaking diesel out past the roller it will end up in the engine sump. Pumpguy was explaining that the diesel leak can be coming from either the lift pump or the diesel side of the main injector pump. I think you can see the oil line coming from the motor in the last pic. Sorry for the long post, I hope this makes sense and helps you.
It does and thanks! I’ll do the air test tomorrow. I’m ordering the kit tonight which includes the primer pump. I’ll probably need some more guidance and it’s good to know it’s ok to mess up. Lol Hopefully the problem is isolated to the supply pump.
JAJ IS CORRECT on all points.. The seal thats behind the roller in your picture, is not easy to replace.. You see the obvious rubber in the center but if u look closer, the rubber is housed in a metal jacket that sits down in a hole in the sp body.. I’ve made a tool to remove it.. But u better get a new seal before u try to remove the old one.!! When u put it back together, flip the rod away from the shiny side.. that’s where the seal rides.. Hope it makes sense..I forget that not everyone has 37 years of experience doing this stuff.. lol
Thanks Pump Guy. Can you send me a pic of your tool and give me the specs on it? Hopefully, if you’re alright with it, I can replicate it. Does the seal come with the gasket kit? I have a kit ordered. I definitely understand changing ends with the rod. I’m about ready to test the sp as instructed, however, I suspect the seal should be replaced. BTW, I remembered I had another injector pump and it still had the Sp attached with some parts missing. The parts we need were still on it. When I pulled the Sp off, there was quite a bit of engine oil on the parts, like puddles. Could this be an indicator the Sp is working properly. I know there are other primary parts of the Sp that also have to be tended to as well if I’m understanding this right the area we are discussing is where the diesel gets into the crankcase. I really appreciate you bearing with me on this project.
I may have sounded like I was intending on using the one on the other inj pump. However, I’m not. It’s quite a bit different. All I was inquiring about if the presence of the oil was a good indicator of what it should look like. Thanks again JAJ and Pump Guy for your help.
Pumpguy would better help guiding you there. I can only make assumptions, but I would think you are correct in your thinking that you should be seeing oil like that. The diesel leak you have I believe would be “washing” the oil out of the bottom of the main IP… bigger the leak, the less oil you would find would be my guess. I am only having an educated guess though, Pumpguy will know from firsthand experience if that’s the case!
The seal on the push rod is definitely the problem. Will not hold air. I pulled the sp off the other inj and I definitely understand now, Pump Guy, what you mean by grab. The push rod on the initial sp would barely stay in at all when turned so it could fall out. The one I pulled off the old pump (housing very different but the pump section is exactly the same) is a great example of what it should be like If the seal could be removed and installed in the sp you have pics of, I believe, once I get the kit everything will pretty much be on my way to be back to work.
I believe you are absolutely correct. No way it could pump, consequently it it was starving for fuel and the diesel was going right into the engine. That’s my opinion.
I have the # for the seal but I’m heading out on a service call in the A.M… won’t be home until the afternoon..
Awesome! I just need guidance on getting the old one out in good form!
Sorry buddy, I was out in the field all day.. & was whipped out when I got home.. Did u contact me directly so I can get your email to send you a pic of the tool..?? Mine is: my screen name at aoldotcom
JAJ and Pump Guy, you have been a tremendous help! I learned, as a young man, (Now, almost 79) you can see a lot further down the road when standing on someone else’s shoulders! The problem is definitely with the supply pump. When Pump Guy told me about replacing the seal, I figured I had nothing to lose by trying something while in waiting for additional info from Pump Guy. I determined, by using the ps off the old and somewhat different inj pump, the proper feel of a push rod, (although a little smaller) sliding through the seal. (It was pretty tight) I used the shaft of a bolt I had on hand that was just a little larger than the push rod I had. It had the same feel as the one referred to above. Made sure it was precisely sized as to length, put it all back together, Did the test. It passed! Put it on the machine, no leaks in sp. Oil on cam side, diesel on the other. Let it set with fuel on for 4 hours, dip stick showed no signs of diesel. Used dozer for an hour, oil appeared to be diesel free. I still want to replace seal, however, there are absolutely no leaks. Not one drop of fuel coming from any fitting, etc. The way the dozer performed, I think I may need to adjust the governor before it runs at peak performance, or you fellas may have other ideas to make it perform at peak performance.
I am a bit lost in the description of what you have done… but that’s not hard to achieve. Sounds like you may have fixed your leak but I’m not sure how without a new seal if the diesel is going past the roller piece? PumpGuy might have a lot better chance of understanding this? If it is still lacking in power might still be getting air or need fuel filters changed if they haven’t been done already? I’m very interested to hear what Pumpguy thinks.
What I gather is he made/found a “fatter” push rod & the old seal is sealing around it..
Yeah that’s what I was thinking but couldn’t understand how it would work. I thought there would have been a larger seal around the roller piece as well but after reading your message I have looked over the pics again and now see how this would work. The culprit seal would be indeed the small one around the push rod! Still needs the new seal kit I wouldn’t trust it, especially not for too long as it is already worn out, but well done though.
Pump Guy that’s exactly what I did. Only a temporary fix to get me out of a jam. I’m still needing the number where I can order that seal. It’s still holding the diesel out of the oil but I don’t know how long. The gasket kit along with primer pump is supposed to be here Monday. JAJ I changed the fuel filter. Where could it be getting air?
Ah very good! What exactly is it doing? Missing, blowing smoke, not getting to full revs, getting full revs but lacking power under load….?? That info might point where to look. It could have an air leak anywhere on the suction side up to and including the supply pump. Have you checked the fuel lines for flow and partial blockages? If you have rubber lines it could have an air leak under suction or vacuum but not leak fuel out. Does it have a fuel strainer (course filter) as well as a main filter? Just some thoughts, but a description of symptoms could point in different directions.
Sorry about not getting u the p# of the seal.. I’m busier than a 1 legged man in an *** kickin contest.!! I’ll get it..
Under load it produces black smoke and bogs down as if the governor isn’t working properly. If I’m understanding this correctly, in order for the governor to work correctly the fuel supply has to be correct as well. Today it’s rained off and on. I did get a chance to take the inline shut off valve off thinking it was to small ID that it wasn’t getting the proper amount of fuel. Do you fellas know what the inlet fuel line proper ID is for a 4 cylinder? Suction side, on all points seems to be tight. One reason I think it is still a fuel issue is: when I first start it you can’t hardly get off the switch key fast enough for it not to start. After using it for a little while, and I can’t get my leg up high enough, fast enough and it stalls, it is hard to start.
No problem. This guy wants me to build him a road, but he’s been waiting awhile and he is intent on me doing it. Just when you get time. In the meantime I’m just keeping a close watch on the “repaired” one’s performance.
JAJ, I think the only filter it has is the screw on filter and it does have a strainer in the sp.
I was just getting ready to ask u about the strainer in the inlet banjo bolt below the hand primer.. If u could get a helper to work the hand primer when it starts to bog or when it starts blowing smoke.. THAT might tell u if it’s a fuel supply issue..?? How did the piston in the supply pump look.?? Any deep scratches.?? 90% of them need to be replaced due to scratch’s/ gouges.. u should check the housing where the piston rides for the same.. Does this pump carry an overflow valve.?? Have u checked it.??
I just went back and found a pic of the side of the pump.. No overflow valve..at least u don’t have to fight THAT..
Piston? I’ve had some refer to the plastic, what some diagrams refer to as plungers, as pistons. Are you talking about what the push rod seats in and the spring sets in the groove on the other side. The other end of the spring rest against the large nut on outside of sp.
That’s correct. Do you think the shut off valve may have been not letting it get enough fuel? It reduced the line from 1/4 ID to 1/8 ID.
Oh my! It’s midnight where I live! We probably should talk about this later.
I’m checking to see if all moving parts of pump are in the repair kit. I will let you know. Good night.
There’s only 1 piston/plunger.. Yes, what the big spring sits in. I know whatcha mean, it’s late, it’s almost 2:00am here..
Black smoke and lacking power sounds like too much fuel (or fuel at the wrong time) and not enough air to burn it! Did this start suddenly or has it been a problem since you got the dozer? How long have you had the dozer? Have you checked for a blocked air intake or air filter?
I’ve had the dozer for a few years. It was such a honey of an operations dozer. Initially a friend dropped it off at the church camp I was building out of a hay meadow. After awhile he offered me a deal I couldn’t refuse and I bought it. At that time, wrong decision, about all I knew was how to drive it. I knew to check all fluids before I got in the seat, but that’s about it. Then I got a crash course in blown hydraulic lines and leaking cylinders. Little by little I began to grasp the importance of clean fuel and air filters. When I retired in 2019, because of failing health the dozer sat idle for probably a year, maybe longer. When I started using it again, it just didn’t seem like its efficiency was as good as it should be. The black smoke loss of power began to show up and my son, who was an OTR truck driver (he owned his own truck) told me to pay closer attention to air filters, fuel filters and quality fuels. A little while back (I’m not using it everyday) I began to notice this fuel in oil. However, it wasn’t very much. At first it was puzzling to me, instead of having to add oil it would sometimes read just a little over full. However, best I can remember, that’s when loss of power began to be recognizable to me. I pulled the injectors, had them tested (all good). I just knew getting this sp working properly, changing fuel and air filters, would solve the problem and it may be when I get this sp overhauled properly every thing will settle in. Gasket kit is supposed to be here tomorrow and pump guy is getting me the number for the seal. Hopefully my cobbling will hold up until I get the new seal. I’ll double check the fuel suction side, the air flow, etc. Is there an adjustment device on the fuel side that will allow me to tweak till I get it fine tuned? I’ve already removed the fuel shut off valve that had the 1/8 inch ID thinking maybe it was too small. Tomorrow i’m planning on replacing rubber fuel supply line and installing the proper shut off valve.
Good morning. I just want to say again how much I appreciate the quality help I have received on this dozer fuel problem. I know you fellas can tell I’ve been my own worst enemy because of my lack of knowledge and because of that, many problems could have been prevented if the subtle changes had been dealt with. In our area there aren’t many diesel mechanics and those that are don’t like the word Mitsubishi. Because of that I’ve tackled some pretty big projects, mostly under carriage. Meanwhile, JAJ, the loss of power, governor not kicking in and the smoke issue, best I remember, all seemed to be about the time I noticed fuel in oil. Today, I intend to install the gasket kit. I’m also going to look closely at the piston Pump Guy told me about. As soon as I get the new seal, I’ll replace it and, hopefully I can rebuild the pump compartment completely. I’m going to take a very close look at the intake system. I think I changed the filter recently but if not, I’ll change that as well. I’m going to double check the complete fuel train, from tank to injectors and make sure everything’s good and tight. I’ll post again if I run into the unknown and when I can field test and the results of that. Y’all have a great day!
Hey sorry I have had a bit going on here and haven’t had a chance to reply. I have been thinking about your drama though…. The fact that it’s a new sudden thing that has happened is interesting! Makes me think it could be something simple. Pumpguy would know if the governor could need adjusting, but I think if it hasn’t been messed with it shouldn’t need it??? Have you adjusted the pump timing or could it have come loose and moved a bit? You have already ruled out the injectors. I have a very silly idea to try…. That you probably have already thought of… if it is starving for fuel like you think it is, have you checked the breather or vent on the fuel tank? Might be blocked or partially blocked. Would explain why it starts up fine and starts loosing power after a short time. If the breather looks/seems good you could double check it by running it for a while and then unscrewing the fuel cap listening for it sucking air back into the tank to fill the vacuum. If it sat for quite a time while you were unwell it would be a candidate for clogged breathers. Hope you are having some luck with it!! If you get a chance could you post a pic of your dozer? I would like to see the beast in question if you don’t mind?
Good morning, JAJ. I know about that, “a lot going on here” stuff for sure. No worries! Sounds like Pump Guy is in the same “boat”! He said it had rained at his place for the last 24 hours. I received the kit yesterday and for starters, only installed the primer pump since mine was short and had missing spring. Oil still looked good, no diesel. I took it for a test. It was better, but still not like I remembered, sound
And performance as well. I kept at it for a bit and it started working just fine intermittently. Backing up was a challenge, and that’s what got my attention. After sluggish performance for a bit, suddenly it moved backwards like a champ, started cutting and spinning the tracks. Then it would go back to misbehaving. Pump Guy had some interesting ideas about the pumping compartment, maybe a faulty piston. Today I’m pulling the pump and rebuilding what I can until I get the seal, and maybe a rebuild kit for the pump compartment. Yesterday, When I finished with the test run, let it sit for a few, checked the oil. Looked like the fuel was back. So, I don’t know if the pump was working correctly off and on was giving me moments of peak performance or if something else is going on. Good idea on the vent. Had not thought of it. That’s the first thing I’ll check (per your instructions), after I check the oil and start it.
Got a setback.. I can’t find the seal #.!! I “knew” where it was but it’s not there.. I’ll go thru my notes and see if I can find it. SORRY .. U can get the pump # off the name plate and call a fuel shop, they may give u the # if u tell’m you will get the seal from them.. Tellm u need the seal for the supply pump, the one behind the roller tappet.. In the meantime I’ll keep looking..
Found it.. check email..
The vent for this rig is in the fuel cap. The hole in the outside of the cap was plugged. Not really any appreciable difference. Pump Guy is sending me the seal. I’m pretty sure I’m still getting some fuel in crankcase. Hopefully the seal will clear that up and it’s not a fault of the main inj pump. I’ll get some pics soon. Thanks!
That intermittent bad running could be a blockage in the tank pickup. Look down in the tank with a flashlight for a "floater", a piece of something that can block the pickup.
So still blowing black smoke only under load and lacking power? No hunting or fluctuating in the revs? Does it run ok sitting still high and low revs?
Very good idea I have seen and heard of that a few times. Very frustrating to deal with. Might even be worth a little bit of compressed air to blow back into the tank if nothing can be seen in the tank, just in case it is stuck in the line. I’m not sure if the Op can test fuel flow via gravity from the tank in his system.
I took the shutoff valve out and just ran the line straight into the sp, thinking the 1/8 “ ID of the valve was too restrictive. The flow was full pipe at 1/4” ID. No load running at any RPM seems fine. Just when I engage a load does the RPM’s fall and would stall without any hunting or fluctuating. Clutching the machine is all that allows it to catch up.
Ok so what I am wondering is if you have something transmission/driveline related that is loading it up. Do you think that could be a cause? Without actually being there I can’t tell so I could be wasting your time. You might be right with the fuel being the cause, just throwing out there some other ideas that could save you some money. Does using the hydraulics while sitting still cause enough load to see symptoms? Do you have rippers? When it starts acting up you could lift the machine up with the rippers and blade to see if the tracks spin freely. Or see if it freely rolls on a down hill slope? As I say just throwing out ideas.
I need every idea (and probably some other things!) thrown at me right now! Lol The hydraulics don’t seem to load it up any more than my other machines do. I live on a hill that falls 2 ft for every 8. I can turn it loose, backwards or forwards, and I’m gaining speed in a hurry. With it in gear, just depress the clutch and away she goes. Working uphill and it begins to stall, press the clutch and if I don’t apply the brake, I’ve lost more progress than I’ve made. I’m trying something today that should dismiss this notion I’ve had that it was fuel and the culprit being the sp. I found this sp complete for $41.50. It’s here and I’m putting it on. If it doesn’t work any better and fuel’s still showing up in the crankcase, I’ll be looking at the inj pump. I’ve already pulled the inspection plate off thinking maybe I was getting fuel from the top. I couldn’t detect any wash down. All the fittings seemed to be tight enough as well, but we’ll see… As soon as I get the seal from Pump Guy, I’m rebuilding the one I’m working with now. If the inexpensive one falls, I will have one that can take its place. Hopefully, when I’ve a success story I can help someone else. I’ll post what I learn from another day in “Jim’s Tinker Shop”!
I’ve never used a UV Fluorescent Leak Detection Dye; but maybe it would give you another way to verify where/how the fuel is traveling?? Or not traveling… Keep digging-you’ll sort it out!
Good morning! Well I changed out the old sp for the new one from Friday Parts. Good results. The “beast” runs as smooth as smooth. Takes fuel and increases revs honorably. Reduces revs as good as any. However, under load, it’s very poor at hunting. Some better, but much to be desired. JAJ, good call on plugged fuel tank vent. The fuel cap hole was plugged. I’m also attaching the pic of the beast as you requested. The little tree got in the way of the model, but it’s a Mitsubishi, BD2G. Many thanks to Pump Guy for getting me the seal I needed to repair the old sp. In the meantime, I’ve discovered a hydraulic leak in a steel line on the return side. Soon as I get that fixed I’ll take it for another test run. After that, it’s probably back to the drawing board. I’m open to any and all ideas. Thanks to everyone for your input, guidance, etc. Pump Guy and JAJ have been a tremendous help.
Love your little dozer. I got to use a rental to grade around my friend's large shop. It was very flat and I only had a few inches to work with to make the water run away. It was quite capable with the farm soils.
It is a honey operating little dozer. When it’s at its best, it’s hard to beat. It takes a little longer to get some jobs done, however, it’s a finished product at the end of the day. After a while you get the feel of your machine and you can cut your grade. Leave your transit at home.
Your friend has a helicopter?
Good morning! Well, I installed the new supply pump. It's working great. No fuel in crankcase. Thanks to Pump Guy, I now have a new seal to get the old pump completely rebuilt. (nothing like a spare) in the meantime, I detected a steel hydraulic line leaking. To pull it for repair, I had to literally take every line loose. I repaired the leaking line and replaced all o-rings, repaired leaky blade lift cylinder, put it back together and it's working perfectly. However, I'm still having problems with the dozer "bogging" down when under a load. It works better going forward, but it is still not "hunting" like it should. Reverse is a real challenge. It loses rpms to the point of stalling completely unless I clutch it. Sometimes it will finally "hunt' just enough to increase the rpms to give a little hope. Any ideas where to look next? going forward t will spin both tracks.
Ok. I’m really revealing how limited my knowledge base is here. Something does seem to be seizing up in the steering clutch part of this machine. It steers almost too easy. However, if I’m not just on a witch hunt, when the machine starts working fine in reverse the steering becomes all squirrelly. Sometimes won’t steer at all. Could something be sticking?
JAJ You asked me earlier: “I am wondering if you have something transmission/driveline related that is loading it up. Do you think that could be a cause?” In reverse it does seem like the brakes are on. Just moving backwards with the blade up, it will stall if I don’t clutch it. Another question you asked: “Does using the hydraulics while sitting still cause enough load to see symptoms?” Just what am I looking for here?
You asked me earlier: “I am wondering if you have something transmission/driveline related that is loading it up. Do you think that could be a cause?” In reverse it does seem like the brakes are on. Just moving backwards with the blade up, it will stall if I don’t clutch it. Another question you asked: “Does using the hydraulics while sitting still cause enough load to see symptoms?” Just what am I looking for here?
Hi sorry I have been at a job where we have no connectivity to anything. Home having a restock and resupply. So what I was getting at was seeing if you have a problem somewhere other than the engine causing your issue. So something causing the engine to work really hard when it shouldn’t have to, causing black smoke and bogging down. The hydraulic loading idea was if your Hyd pump might be able to give the engine a bit of a load not related to the driveline. It probably wouldn’t give much if it is a gear pump, but if you pull a couple Hyd levers sitting still and it bogged down and blew smoke I would think it would most likely be an engine lacking power problem. If the engine didnt change note I would think less chance of engine as cause. But this isn’t a perfect test idea and may not give good results anyway. It sounds like it might be more driveline related if it is only doing it in reverse now? The steering issue could be getting you honed in on a possible cause. So your dozer has a manual gear box and clutch? What do you mean by steering too easy? Is your steering system seperate leavers and brake pedals? I have an old fiat bulldozer that once got a stick wedged up where the brake pedal shaft went in the case causing it to stay locked on, have you checked the brake pedals are returning freely if you have them?
Not a problem! I just appreciate your help at any time. If the machine turns abruptly when I pull the lever, I read somewhere it could indicate a stuck steering brake. It clicked! I had this guy, before I knew it had a gear pump, to pull those covers underneath the seat and adjust the brake bands.(I guess he didn’t know this machine either) Sometime ago, another mechanic, told me the gear pump was bad and needed replacing, which he did. I’ve used the little fella very little since then because of failing health. While you were away I began to rethink myself on my answer to you about it freewheeling. Yesterday I put it to the test. Come to find out, on a steep incline, in reverse the machine wouldn’t move at all and I remembered the steering advice. I pulled the covers and backed off on the brake band tensioners. Presto! It was like I had a new machine! It still isn’t adjusted as good as it should, however, my plan is to adjust until I get a good steering experience and have the machine move freely when in neutral on the incline. It does have brake pedals and they seem to be working as they should. In the meantime, I had a steel hydraulic line to spring several leaks due to several deep pits. I pulled it off (after literally pulling every other line off) and used my brazing skills to repair. I went back with all new o-rings and overhauled a blade lift cylinder. The hydraulics are working fine. Now: The fuel in crankcase, the power issue (which caused it to overheat) are solved. On to a clutch pedal issue. It literally will not move until the last bit of pedal is released. Just in front of the engine/transmission ujoint It has a band very similar to the steering brake bands only much smaller. It’s burned toast. JAJ, thanks for all your help. Besides the clutch issue and some under carriage issues, it’s a fine operating little machine.
My BD2G issue has now came down to this. The brake acts like it's on all the time. I've adjusted the adjustments under the seat. Set the brake bands at 2 2/3 turns, however it has great difficulty "freewheeling", especially backwards. Even moving backwards in reverse causes it to load up, blow the black smoke. Ideas? If the brake band that's affected by the inching clutch is too tight, will that cause movement problems of this nature?
Thanks for your help. My opinion, I've pretty much ruled out an engine or fuel related issue. It does have a standard transmission with the stick shift and clutch. It has the two steering levers and also a brake on the floor just like an automobile, clutch on left and brake on right. You jogged my thinking and tomorrow I'm going to see if the floor brake may be the problem. I've checked specs and measurements on everything i could, however, for some reason, haven't thought of the possibility of the floor brake needs adjustment. What i meant by steering to easy, i read somewhere if the machine turned when the lever was just barely pulled, look at the possibility of something stuck or out of adjustment in the steering. By now, i don't think that's the problem. I'll post as soon as I can. Thanks again!