Ser # 5YJ01625 Can anyone help me with the proper part number interchange for CAT fuel injector (atomizer) part number 6I-1214 ?. I'm looking for the correct Perkins and Stanadyne part numbers for those CAT injectors, so that I can try to find them cheaper than the $305 each that CAT wants. Yes I know I'm cheap, but we're building a house and shop and I have to make every single dollar count where I can and if I can save some money on the same quality, I will. Anyway, I was looking at the Perkins catalog and they show half a dozen injector part numbers for their 1004-40 engine which from what I can tell is the same model as the Cat 3054 in my backhoe. Stanadyne's catalog only crosses over Perkins numbers as far as I can see, so I need the right Perkins number to get the right Stanadyne number. I haven't pulled any of the injectors out yet (to see if there is any numbers on them) and won't be able to for a few days probably, so I'm trying to just do some computer shopping work in advance if possible. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide as always. Tim
You need input from @thepumpguysc I dunno but maybe it is possible to recondition the injectors you have right now.? Also while we’re going down that particular rabbit hole what makes you think you need to replace the injectors.?
Reply to Nige
Thanks for responding Nige. I don't know for a fact that they need to be replaced. I suspect that one or two of them are not spaying properly, due to missing and sputtering over the entire RPM range but mostly at upper engine speeds. The engine doesn't seem to have as much power as it should, and it's been that way since we bought it two years ago. I had problems with it loosing prime in the fuel system when I first bought it and replaced fuel lines, ferrules, lift pump, rubber gaskets on the primary glass water separator, secondary water separator filter ect to get that problem worked out. I checked the outlet at the tank at that time as well. I figure at this point the power and missing/lack of power issue is most likely either the injectors or the injector pump. I figure my next step will be the injectors, but I don't plan on just buying them. I figured I could pull them, get one of those cheap bench testers to see how they are spraying, see if I could clean/de-carbon them and if not, replace what needs replaced. If the injectors seem to spray well and not leak then I guess the next suspect would probably be the injector pump. While I have the injectors out, I could do a compression test as well to see what I get there as well. Does that seem like a reasonable path?
Need advice from @thepumpguysc He's the expert in this stuff. if he doesn't respond shoot him a PM.
Having several Cat backhoes, I'd be more inclined to start more basic. This separator needs removed, disassembled, and the INLET passage cleared.
heymccall thanks for your reply. I had both the primary and secondary water separators off the machine, completely apart, cleaned them and replaced ferules and seals when I was trying to track down a vacuum leak in the fuel system when I bought it two years ago. The first thing I did was replace the separator cartridge when the machine would not start, so that was also done. After fixing the vacuum leak, and getting the engine running again, it still had a bit of a miss and didn't seem to have as much power as it should have to me. It seems like the miss has gotten progressively worse over the last two years, but with everything else we've been doing (not to mention blown hoses, a water pump, an overheating issue that was actually a wiring harness issue and cylinder rebuilds) that required immediate attention I haven't really had time to mess with the engine miss. I don't much diesel engine experience, but to me it sounds like more than one cylinder involved. Like maybe two that are not firing at 100% maybe. If I can find some time I was thinking I'd pull the injectors and see how well they bench test.
Have you ever been into the lines between the fuel tank and the water separator, and the tank itself, since you bought the machine.? If not then IMO you really should cover those (relatively inexpensive) bases before you move to the more expensive stuff in the fuel system. TBH if it's been two years since you went into the separator head I'd go into it again, just to tick the box again, before moving forward.
Yes it might make more sense if I explained what happened when I bought it. When I went to look at the machine it started up fine, ran ok (although even then it didn't seem like it had the right amount of power and it didn't seem like it was spinning up to full RPM. Some of the gauges were not working. I found out later that there is a short in the harness behind the instrument panel and that some of the connectors had melted off for the light switches. Anyway the Tach does work, but I'm not sure it's registering correctly since the short in the harness caused the high temp gauge reading that I had before. I don't have a hand held tach to check it independently of the tach in the machine. The day I went to pick the backhoe up, again it started up fine no problems, but after trailering it home and letting it sit on the trailer til the next morning, it got really cold (lived in Pennsylvania at the time) and when I went to start it, it would not start. My immediate thought was jelled fuel or water in the fuel, but after changing the water separator cartridge and trying to prime the new filter using the lift pump I could not get fuel up to the new separator cartridge. As I recall from memory the primary glass separator also would not stay full either. Even after temps warmed up for few days, things still would not work. I was able to get the machine to run using fuel in a gas can and a 12 volt pump running into the injection pump so I knew the problem of why it wouldn't run was between the tank and before the injection pump for that issue. So after calls to a diesel mechanic friend and the local Cat dealership, I ended up first replacing the lift pump, (which I don't actually think was bad) then I ended up taking apart and replacing all the rubber ferrules at each line joint, and I also tore apart the primary and secondary separators cleaned them and replaced the gaskets in them as well. The Cat parts guy told me the ferrules are a known problem on these machines and that they cause vacuum leaks when they get old. I pulled the fuel line off the tank and the flow from the tank was what I would say was 100% fine. I thought maybe the tank outlet could have been clogged but it wasn't. I went ahead and replaced the rubber fuel line coming out of the fuel tank to ensure that there was not a pin hole causing a problem in that line either. I did not replace the second fuel hose which if I recall correctly was a return line, because I figured if it was a return line it probably wasn't causing the issue. Probably should have just replaced it anyway I guess. So after all that I did get the machine up and running and it's been running pretty reliably ever since, except for the normal problems you have with a 30 year old backhoe that needs a bunch of stuff fixed on it. When I say reliably, I mean it starts when I turn the key, but still seems to have a miss, doesn't seem to have as much power as I would think it should, and only spins up to around 2000 RPM on the tach. If this was a gas engine, I would say that it's acting like an ignition misfire problem, like maybe a bad plug wire(s) or cap and rotor kind of issue.
I've been known to pull the injectors and reconnect them, upside down, to verify spraying patterns. Kinda messy, but, sometimes I'm either nowhere near a test bench, or, my pockets are empty. From where you're at, get injectors tested, and, while they're out, test compression at all four cylinders.
As an aside, I've lost count of how many times that I've found, or seen, the circled Oring missing on the water bowl.
Do you see any reason that I can't buy one of the diesel injector testers they sell for about $100 or so and test them myself for spray pattern, pop pressure and leaking? Doesn't look too hard from the videos I've seen and I'd have the tester to use on my other diesel equipment in the future. I'd also like to get the experience and knowledge from doing it myself if possible.
I have a 90 dollar one and it works fine. Even if you don't have the cracking pressure spec you'll be able to pic out the problem one with easily with it assuming it is in deed bad
This one right here
Thanks
Before you spend hundreds or more on parts make sure your engine is good. Perform a compression test. If you have a cylinder with low compression that will cause your symptoms. In my day job as a field engineer for an auto manufacturer I see techs put thousands of dollar in parts into a vehicle only to find out the engine has one or more cylinders with an issue.
Great advice. Thank you.