I am breaking this off into its own Topic so any Furkawa folks can follow it. Here is reposted the questions from the other thread: Having gone down and bought a 14mm Hex socket from NAPA ($28 - not cheap) I was able to get the 3 cap plugs out from under the bottom of the drive case (under seat area) One in the middle is obviously from the dipstick under the front of the seat because of the oil's milky appearance. Lot of oil came out maybe a couple of gallons. The plug on the right had really black thick oil about a couple of quarts. the one on the left had almost nothing and it looked like grease in consistency. Not sure about these if they are supposed have anything or not. Anyone have any thoughts? TIA.
Hi Matt, Firstly,you'll find that you will need to be in contact with people all over the world,if you need info on your machine.I know of owners in Europe,Australia,UK, & USA.There are not many CT5 & CD5 in operation. The S4E engine is similar to that used in the Mitsubishi BD2G crawlers,although I'm unsure if it's exactly the same. As for parts...your Hitachi dealer will source them for you,at huge prices ,although I imagine that USA customers will pay less than anyone else.I got quoted $1100 per lower roller!Aftermarket parts are almost non-existent. I can source lower rollers & a few other engine parts.I am also considering parting out my CT5 Crawler Loader. I've attached a diagram of the steering .It sounds like you opened the 2 final drive plugs.You need gear oil in there.Maybe get a tractor mechanic to show you through the various oil checks. Any other owners,please join this thread.... Jim
Thanks JimInOz for your reply. Yes, the Furukawas crawlers are pretty rare. Mine has sure been reliable and strong. Never had a track come off and the thing always starts and runs. Not sure the plugs are for the final drives since they are higher than the bottom of the drives being just slightly offset backwards from the center plug. Looks more like having to do with the clutches. The final drive area has a 14mm plug at the 2o'clock position for fill and I do not know if the drain is on the backside on the flat face but that would be my guess.
Hi Matt, Maybe they are drain plugs for the steering case.After working in wet areas ,you remove those plugs to drain any water that seeped in... If you have oil coming out,you might have a leaking Bevel gear case. I just pulled the clutches from a Mitsy BS3 yesterday & there's oil in the steering case.Looks like new seals required in there. BTW Matt,how did you work out that the Berco pins fitted your track.? It would be nice to find an aftermarket chain for our machines. Jim
In Arkansas there is a fellow that was doing business as Wilsons Undercarriage, that though he did not have the correct removal punch dies was willing to fabricate stuff so that he could remove the pins and bushings and replace them with the Berco ones. He did all kinds of equipment tracks and really knew his stuff. He also gave me a drawing of replacement Sprocket. Do not know if he is still in business since this was several years back but my tracks have operated about 200 hours without problem since then. I expect the oil in the right side is probably what caused my inability to brake the right side track for steering. If the seal is gone it would require a complete rebuild which I know is outside my ability. So i am left with getting what use I can out of the machine or selling it for someone else to tinker with it. Can not complain too much since I more than paid for the machine with developing my own property and doing contract work for others for several years. The Furukawa dozer was a good machine. (I will post this since I notice it has the d20 models listed)
Hi Matt, The small Jap machines are usually well made & give great service. Spare parts availability is the major problem....the prices are crazy. If you wish to sell the machine,let me know & I can find a buyer in the USA. Regarding your oil leak,just keep topping it up before you work...it may extend the life a little.It would be a shame to run the machine until spares are unusable. The D21 sprocket rim is 555mm diameter & the CT5 is around 600mm. I tried running my CT5 sprocket in a new D21 chain...close,but not perfect. The d21 pitch is 135mm,the CT5 is 137mm. I am yet to find aftermarket chain,idler & sprocket to fit the CT5.The Hitachi DX40 is same,but no aftermarket available,to my knowledge.I have seen rubber track suppliers listing DX40 & CD5....I'm sure their tolerances are different. The Furukawa FD45 are a smaller size. Jim
Nice pictures. My CD5 PB has the 6way blade and different tracks than the straight push dozer at top, I will take a picture and post it. One of the problems with sale of these dozers, is price of repair vs value of machine. There is a value in keeping a dozer if you have a large property in a rural area. Even if the thing only works some what. Since the price of replacement is much higher and the value of the replacement may not be as good (Used equipment is always bit of a gamble). However the price of repair may be higher than is justified by usage you can get. That is why when Darinray made a offer about purchase in the Gray market thread, him and I could not get together on price. The amount he felt he could offer due to transportation costs and repair costs was half as much as the value I could still get out of the dozer by having it around my place. This year even with the steering issue I made a $1000 from a neighbor to clean up the mess left behind when he had someone else clear land for building his house. Due to condition of my machine I only charged him $25/hr (Heck it was only a 1/4 mile up the road) and he was pleased as could be with the work I did. One problem I have where I am at, is it is extremely rural and there are few heavy equipment mechanics (none that I know of). So this complicates the picture considerably. However I would sell the dozer allowing for the repair costs and the right for someone to profit/get value considering what a repaired dozer would be worth.
Here is the other side.
As a update: While the weather was above freezing the last few days I drained the oil from the finals and replaced. Pulling the decking off to look at the clutch linkage I noticed the brake band that stops the drive shaft from rotation when the clutch is engaged was not stopping rotation. This made it difficult to go in and out of gear. I attempted to adjust the push rod tensioner but the Lower adjustment nuts were completely frozen. Luckily the upper nuts came free. Had to take off the lever and pull the cotter pins from the push rod mechanism to get the thing loose to take to the work bench to soak in penetrant and use the vise to break the bottom nuts free. Once replaced on the machine and adjusted, the shaft stops, I am able to shift the transmission much easier without grinding. Also with the fluid change and draining the right steering clutch housing, I have some grab when I want to turn to the right. The left seems better as well but that might be my imagination. I will have to check the buildup of oil in the right to see how bad the seal is leaking. At least I will get some more use from the dozer. Thanks to those that offered advice and also to the Forum here for information.
Sorry for the dumb question but you did put oil back in teh middle reservoir right? Darin
Yes, all 2 gallons of it, 15l. I used 30W motor oil since that is what I had read was appropriate.
Big IF this is anything like the old dry steering clutch machines we used to run: The seals on the bevel gear output/steering clutch shafts would start to seep oil and cause the same problem. We would wash the steering clutches and brakes by adding kerosene to the compartments and running the machine around for half an hour or so and then drain. The steering brakes would then work well for quite some time. A lot of guys would just leave the drain plugs out but I never liked doing that as mud and water would get in there. This flushing procedure was actually a factory recommended procedure by Allis Chalmers and they had a specific procedure in the service manual. I ran an HD6 with ripper so I would just jack the machine up in the air and run the tracks back and forth. Changing the seals was very expensive labor wise and as long as it was a minor leak, flushing would keep you going for years or until the ring and pinion failed.
Now that is very interesting, Komatsu 150. I may very well try the flush method and see what I get. Certainly have nothing to lose by it. Thanks for your experience and reply!
DF45P Parts I've read your threads and I am looking for sprockets for df45p. Does anyone know where I might purchase them??
Sure I have the sprocket rings for it. They are 27 tooth right? Contact me and hopefully we can work something out. Darin
Matt, Well done on the new thread. In replacing my bevel seals ,I noted that the bevel would likely retain a lot of oil for lubrication....but the oil going into the steer housings might cause problems unless drain plugs are loosened ,say,weekly. Of course,you would need to watch your bevel oil level,as it would drain a little on each use of the dozer...esp. on hill work. I don't stuff around with these problems...if there's a steering issue,I pull them & tidy everything up.That's the way you get to know about your machine & you know that you're gonna get a lot of service from those repairs. Time is usually the biggest cost.I realise this method cannot always be used,but I know that steering problems only get worse,as do oil leaks. Eventually a major issue,such as no pushing power...or busted bevel bearings, will arise. A real mechanic will tell you more than I ever could... MATT: Do you have a picture of the CD5 lube chart that is on the machine. Mine is illegible... A clear picture would be appreciated. Furukawadon, I think the FD machines have a smaller track system that the CD5/CT5 machines.Maybe closer in size to BD2 or D21 size. I think your machine has the Isuzu engine. I've attached a couple of pictures.. Jim
I will see if I can get a clear picture of it if the weather cooperates tomorrow. It is not easy to make out (rather faded) even though it does have some English alongside the Japanese and does give fluid amounts. I had thought about doing repairs like you are doing but I have been stymied by really cold nasty weather. (Do not have anywhere indoors to work on the dozer). Hope your repairs get you going good again.
Hi Matt, I can understand your weather constraints. We don't get snow & ice here & it's usually sunny,so I can't imagine living with the freezing cold that you get. I'm lucky that I built a shed to work in.It's mainly for protection from the sun. We have high 30s/low 40s C for this week. Regarding the lube chart,mine is nearly faded away,so any better image is gonna be a vast improvement. Jim
I may be able to get better picture than these when the ice melts that is covering the side of the dozer (presently -15C out with a wind chill of -25C).
Hi Matt, Thanks for the pictures.As you can see,they are much better than mine. I'm sure I could order a new chart,but I'd need to see my bank manager first,as Furukawa parts are all gold plated... Jim
Here is the best I can do with it with enhancement with GIMP.
Hi Matt, Thanks for the new picture.That's a good enough pic for reference purposes,& will be of help to others out there. I hope your weather is better this week. Jim
I was wondering if someone can help me. Someone wants to give me a Furukawa CD5P as a trade and was wondering if I can get more some of the basic info such as: - HP - Weight - Etc... I've looked everywhere online and can't seem to find anything on this model. Thanks Walter
Basically the same size as the Mitsubishi BD2G and or Komatsu D21P. 40hp ~9,000 pounds
The one I had, weighed 10,000 lbs. 40Hp Mitsubishi 4 cylinder. It is heavier than the Komatsu D21. As to the etc.? Happy to provide any thing else I can.
Excellent Matt, you information is helping me a lot. - What did you experience on the fuel efficiency? Gallons/hr? - What type of work did you use it for? - We would like to use it for clearing smaller brushes. Do you think they are suitable?
Mine used very little diesel, somewhere between .75 to 1.5 gals per hour. I used it for general land clearing, pond construction (I had mine for 12 years). It had the direct drive with main clutch so it was fairly powerful. It was quite a good machine being agile. I was sorry to have the steering go out in it. If I could have got it repaired I would have kept it. When I did contracting with it I hauled it about with a 14,000 gooseneck and my 1-Ton truck. Biggest problems with these machines is no one carries parts.
Thanks a lot for the info. It will definitely help us make a decision.
I just put a deposit down on a Furukawa CD5PLB tonight. Seems to run, move, and operate well, it just doesnt look real nice. I guess I'm gonna hose it down with some paint after getting it cleaned up. The only part it seems to need is a floor plate to go around the controls...I'll just end up building one... Does anyone have a source for parts for the CD5's?
This is interesting. I have a Komatsud20p where the dry steering clucthcs/brake bands got soaked with oil and no longer steers. You think putting some diesel in ther instead of kerosene and driving it around a bit would clean them up?
Hard to think it would make anything worse. It really worked on the old machines. We used kerosene because there is no oil component like diesel. I think Stoddard solvent would be even better although I think it's probably $10.00 a gallon now. The AC manual gave an amount to put in each side, enough to get the bottoms of the drums in fluid and you were supposed to operate clutches and brakes a lot while running around. Then drain it out and run around some more and operate everything to dry it out.
My furukawa clutch quit working today, I can't read japanese so I have no idea what clutch fluid it uses. Is it 10w like the kamatsu ?
Pretty interesting thread about Furukawa Electronic Company but Furukawa folks, did you already heard about the recent scandal that Furukuwa Company's facing? Yeah! The Furukawa Company is in big trouble right now and I find it here Investigation deepens in auto parts price-fixing scandal . An enormous price fixing scandal has broken involving Furukawa, a vehicle part supply firm that makes parts for several car manufacturers. The executives who took part in the price fixing scheme are facing prison terms. The business seems to have been fixing costs in more countries than previously suspected, however.
Hello everyone: Although this seem to be an old tread I am hoping by this time someone has made progress in sourcing parts for their Furukawa dozer. Has anyone been able to find replacement steering clutches to match the furukawa CD5B Dozer. Are there a source for a repair manual. My CD5B will not steer left, and I am trying to get a manual before I dig in too far.. Even a Japanese manual will do, since it shows diagrams of the various components. Any help most appreciated.. Seeking..
Furukawa CD5B Dozer steering clutch disks :Banghead Bump!.. Kick-start..Starter fuel, warm-up glow plugs, Bump.. JiminOZ: FurukawaMat: Anyone!: has everyone given up trying to source parts for the CD5B?.. I have been searching now for a week and have finally made contact with a possible manufacturer of clutch friction disks. They are asking for specifications. JiminOZ, the diagram you posted earlier showing the clutch pack, do you have the specs for the components of that clutch pack. Can you please break the seal on that gold plated CD5B manual binder and send me the specs for the various clutch disk. Please email me at: [email protected] I will share if my search and testing bear fruit. Regards: John
CD5B clutch pack specifications: Need. Hello Folks, Cleaning the clutch pack with with kerosene or diesel may work partly, but you will be replacing the larger oil molecule with a smaller kerosene molecule and a surface treatment at best. Like the brake pads on a car, break-cleaner may remove the surface contamination but the brakes will never work the same again. baking the pads under extreme temperature allows the oil to secrete from the material, and a household oven will not do. Further, if we go in that far and having to cook the disk to get them back to specs. replacing the disk would be my objective. Availability and cost being a very important factor in the decision of course. The Hitachi dealer I called said he could not help.. Someone please ping me back.. I am looking for specification on the clutch pack for the CD5B. Thanks>> Regards John
CD5 Parts manual Although this thread seem to be on a side line, I hope my sharing will help someone who looks. I finally found a parts manual. I will try to attach. I believe the site allows one hour if not used before delete.. I am still trying to source a repair manual. Maybe I can have the pages digital an then translated. If someone could copy the page which show the Steering clutch removal procedure It would be most appreciated.. Regards John..
Not given up yet. After much trials, I finally got the right clutch pack out. Simple now that I know how to do it. Three of my friction disk had a major failure, many teeth missing. Now the big decision; a manufacturer in China is asking me to send samples for their engineer to look at.. Idea is to ask for a production run of their minimum quantity.. Anyone interested in a couple of sets, if I make the plunge.. These strong little dozers has held up well, they are now showing that their steering clutches are consumables, and it would be a shame to just let them die. I took lots of pictures and hope to put together a show and tell if my parts run bear fruit..
Wow haven't seen this thread in a long time.. sorry for my delay but did just send you a email. talk to you soon.
Hi Everyone, jake here checking in with my first post. Thank you all for the info in this thread and i'll be back with questions. best regards, jake
One more post here to bump this to the top. I'm a new member so I am not able to send private messages yet. I was hoping to send one to Furakawamatt to ask him about the manuals that he has for the furukawa ce5 dozer. In the chance that he doesn't check in regularly here could someone send him a message or email for me? To avoid him getting an overloaded inbox If you do contact him for me could you post here as well saying that you did? Thanks in advance, jake
What would it take to get you to make a copy of your owners manuel on your furukawa cd5 and mail it to me?
I would be up for a copy too! Just lost a track and got it back on but would love to be able to have a schematic of the tensioner setup so I can work on it next winter.... Thanks, Jake
Anyone looking for a parts book I see there is one listed on E bay http://www.ebay.com/itm/FURUKAWA-CD...493573?hash=item4affd167c5:g:9rIAAOSwepZXQ6Vr
Hi Everyone, I need some assistance with a Hitachi DX45M which I believe is the same as Furukawa FD40P. How do I remove the steering clutch/brake system from the machine. Is it able come out straight from the top panel or do I need to dismantle further?
Guys; a really quick questions for members with knowledge... My Furukawa CT5 needs a new universal joints between clutch housing and final drive assemblies... Does anybody know what generic or similar manufacturer part will work? Sizing matches Spicer 1310 series however finding it a challenge to match up the HWD machine end caps.. appreciate any help. Thanks
Do you have any measurements you could send me.. I've got what appears by the photos some in stock here but as you know a picture could be deceiving.. Best to use email..
Any help:
Some follow up on this universal joint situation; nothing available off the shelf... Diameter D = 25.99 / Spicer 1310 = 28.00 Distance K = 60.50 / Spicer 1310 = outside clips Wing Caps on the Spicer 1310 assembly are not available with HWD or HWT, only available in LWT and they are hardened and will break even the toughest drill bit attempting to drill them out; have tried and failed. Wasted $500 down the toilet being sold a new Dana yoke and two spicer 1310 uni joints by the expert australian distribution manager... Totally useless option; parts are sitting under the bench providing a stable home for atmospheric surface rust. Ended up purchasing a NOS RUJ-2027 universal joint for $25 off Fleabay: Diameter D = 26.99 Distance K = 60.75 Went to the plumbing section at the local Aerospace store and purchased x4 bronze solder joint sleeves for $2.75 each, then machined the sleeves down to fit into each original wing cap; inside diameter was already correct; used a simple O'ring as a dust seal.. Took each new hardened cap off the RUJ-2027 uni joint and ground them down to 25.99 using a lathe, micrometer/vernier, and an air powered mini belt sander with 80 grit belts; took a while but the idea worked really well. (the other option is to line bore out the OEM yoke to suit 27.00mm RUJ-2027 caps, but there is the risk that the machinist you take your irreplaceable component to will screw it up; and they will because that's what 99% of humans excel at best and faithfully achieve reliably really really well without trouble regardless of culture colour creed status or individual net worth). micro-rant finished... Hand filed the inside faces of the yoke out from 60.50 to 60.75 to allow RUJ-2027 circlips to located. This is a knowledge and experienced based task. If you have neither, practice on an old piece of cast iron until you can achieve a "machine flat" surface finish by hand. Packed in and greased everything up really well as there is no room for grease nipple with the RUJ-2027 uni joint, so fitted a grub screw. Best show on earth again... After 12 months of sitting in the weather the engine started straight up on the batteries first turn... now the main clutch is stuck on the flywheel due to 12 months of non use; next adventure.... resoration repair works great!! Top inspection plates of the transmission have rusted through and gearbox unit has filled up with rain water... will have to remove and get new plates fabricated. Does anyone have a breakdown diagram of the primary transmission and engine clutch sections?
Correction on above information for dimension D. The Furukawa H-yoke bore is 26.50mm; dimension D = 26.49 for universal joint caps... Distance between universal joints on the H-yoke = 71.00 Dimension K = 59.25 (this needs to be filed out to 60.50 Dimension S = 33.00 Dimension C = 84.00 Wing Caps = HWD Distance across Wing Cap bolts = 60.75 square Checking through my notes - RUJ-2027 "is" a Spicer 1310 series universal joint. "The supplemented H-yoke that does not work is off a Dodge and uses Spicer 5.291X universal joint". waste of time... Can also confirm the Furukawa H-yoke itself is not case hardened; so working and repairing this component with standard hand tools is possible.
anyone know how to adjust up the brakes on one