On a C65 it has a fuseable like on the bat termanal of the starter to run every thing . How heavy should this be it has a gas engine ? The one on it steal works but the wire to it is bear and not in good shape.
I am thinking those were 50 amp, had to manage all the cab loads and any small shorts that did not pop a fuse right off. The ratings are weird where they are Wire Size typical not listed by amps, so if 14ga then any 14ga fuse link is correct(ORielly's or Car Quest)
Yes and no. Replace fuse link with what it currently has. Length and gauge. Typically if you have a 10 AWG wire you'd step down to a 14AWG fuse link. 2ga protected by a 6. Always reduce by 4. Solder it in, no butt splices.
Might be a place to ask. Why did those type of fuse links get used? They are all crap that cost extra money to obtain and they are worse to cut the old one out and install a new one. If it burns on the road your next ride is on a tow truck. So what is the difference between a burning wire and a standard Buss fuse?
Cheaper to construct, simple as can make it. No boxes, no terminal strips, no changes to a "Sleek and Efficient" design to make money easier.
Think of it as a fuse before the fuse panel it protects your wiring harness from a dead short which will consume everything
Myself... I would replace it with real wire and a 50-60 amp Maxi-fuse near the battery.
Well if you've had bad luck and hate that vehicle having a fuse-able link might prolong the agony.
I had a fusible link go on an old 1970 Chevy C-50, nearly caught the truck on fire before it burned through. I don't remember the culprit, I think it was a charge wire to the welder battery.
This kind of confirms my feeling on the issue. I have wired the out in the past and just stuck an in line fuse into the harness. So there is no real advantage to having a fuseable link except to the manufacturer of the machine.