Hi guy's I had this problem I wanted to share because this information is not out there. My gehl set the check engine light and began to sound louder than usual. I'm the owner operator so I know when something changes. Because of the diesel rattle I could tell something was off with the timing, and when it was hot it was even louder. I check the flash codes, all sensor connections blah blah blah. And after tons of reading I determined it was the bosch vp30 injection pump timing selenoid which does not show up in the flash codes. Dealers will tell you you need a new pump to the tune of 7k plus. Well that's not happening unless it has to be, but it doesn't. The selenoid is easy to get to, but mine was not easy to get out, like any replacement videos shows 2 bolts and just pop right out, cut the wires and splice in and your off to the races. Mine was so galled in that I had to remove the injection pump in order to not damage it. The new selenoid measures 9.2ohms The bad one measures open or OL. If you damage the core your in for a new pump and no core return. So I had to pull the pump to get the timing selenoid out. And, it is not very hard if your a good mechanic and want to save 5k or 6 or 7k. Prior to removing I had tried everything known to man, mild heat because of aluminum, every penetrating oil, pb, kriol, and the best of them all is good old liquid wrench and the cheapest. With the pump removed and in a vise by the bolt flanges only I gave it another shot of liquid wrench the heated with propane only until I could see the boiling at the seams. After several tries to wiggle it out with a channel lock it finally began to move. Got it out and installed the new one. Primed and bled the fuel system. It fired up easily and runs silky smooth with no check engine light. If anyone wants the full details on doing this repair, hit me up and I can walk them through it. There is a lot of things to know so you don't get yourself in a timing issue when pulling that pump. There are 3 gears with timing marks and you can't just pull the pump. All in all, it's an easy 8 hour job.
Hello Jimbo, I’m having problems with a 7810 and need to know what steps are involved in taking the injection pump off? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Yes I can help you, What kind of problems are you having.
OK, her are the steps. It's really not hard. 1. Open radiator and swing out. Drain. Now is a great time to just replace. 2. With boom arms fully raised and locked. Take off right side engine panel. Unplug ecu harness at ecu, 7mm Allen head. Unhook the large rectangle harness held in the bracket near the pump 3, 8mm bolts and 7mm Allen hold the plug together. Dip stick support 1, 13mm bolt and swing out of the way. This is all to allow access to the pump and room to remove it. 2 fuel lines with squeeze locks. Gently squeeze buttons with a pliers and wiggle off. Move out of the way.. Also there is a bracket on the back of the pump,1, 13mm bolt to the engine. Also there is a power plug to the pump. It's a large black square that has finger grabs, you have to work it loose by pulling it out towards you this disconnects the pump from power. It may take some effort if it's never been off before. Once pulled open the plug comes right out. Don't forget this step. 3. Now let's get the pump off. Back at the front of the engine, take off the fan, belts, waterpump in that order paying attention to the bolts. Next is the timing gear cover. 3 different lengths, pay attention. Inside the cover are 3 gears that are timed. cam, injection pump, idler and crank which you won't see. Important: If you are 100% certain that the old pump will be going back on you won't have to time the whole engine, but I would recommend it. Each gear has timing marks that all line up with each other, however the injection has to be pinned at top dead center. If there is even a chance that you have to replace the pump, then all gears must be line up perfectly or your timing will be screwed. Since I was just replacing the timing selenoid and was certain the same pump was going back in I just got the pump to TDC, used a drill bit for the pin alignment in the top of the gear. Find a drill bit that fits perfectly in the alignment hole. Line up through the gear into the pump. Shorter bit is better but long will still work. This pin can never come out until the pump is put back in. Not even by accident. Once the pump is pinned mark ALL the gears with a paint pen or sharp and add one on the engine to a gear on the injection pump for good measure. If the pump gets replace then use the factory timing marks and alignment according to a manual for the 1104 E engine. takes off injection lines at back of pump and at injectors so they are loose and you dont have to bent them when removingthe pump. you also need them loose for bleeding and priming the pump. 4. Now remove the gear on the injection pump 4 bolts. under the gear are the 3 bolts that hold in injection pump. Make certain that drill bit stays put in the pump. Now the pump will be free for removal. Tap center bolt with rubber mallet hammer to break loose from the engine and maneuver pump out. Take many pictures along the way for reference. Install in reverse order. Bleed all air frome pump by letting the pump cycle a few minutes with the key on, watch injection lines for free flow of fuel and if one leaks tighten that line on the injector. Next, with the lines lose, crank the engine several times to bleed the rest of the lines. When air bubbles are gone tighten all the lines at the injectors. now the engine should start.. I only have antifreeze in the engine until it's running, fan and belt are still off until I'm running. Once I know I have been successful then I reinstall the belts and fan and check for and oversites, and button it all back up. Back to work after a short working trial. Good luck. Also find a service manual online to use with my tutorial. And don't forget to take pictures for reference.