I have a 40ft R/T scissor that wont stay running. It was parked for about a year and i went to move it yesterday with lttle success. It will start and idle ok but when it idles up to drive it spits and sputters and wont stay running. I am guessing that the fuel is bad based on the smell of the exhaust (raw stale smell), but i want a second opinion before i tear into it tomorrow. I have checked the LP setting and its in the right spot. Being that it is fuel injected does anyone suspect that its that updated fuel system deal that genies are known for? Please say no! Thanks in advance
Dual fuel engine? You say it's fuel injected? What kind of engine is it?
ford lrg i believe. I had one of my guys check the LP possible he didnt no what he was looking at. Maybe i am mistaken that its dual fuel??
If it's a fuel injected LRG, that's something I haven't run into as of yet. But one thing I've had a fight with over the last couple of years is the new gasoline in carburetors. If one sits for very long at all, it clogs up the carb. I don't know if it has the same effect with fuel injection.
I checked out that motor today and its fuel injected as far as i can tell. It has a fuel rail and injectors and i couldnt find a carb anywhere. Also it is dual fuel. I drained the tank and put new fuel in. Took about 5 minutes of cranking off and on but i think thats all it was. What is the button on the bottom left side of the control box? THe decal is worn through and i cant tell.
That's good to hear. I'm telling ya, I'm seeing loads of problems on gasoline machines when it sits for an extended period, gas seems to get rotten real quick. On engines with carbs, I clamp the fuel supply hose going to carb with pinch off pliers and run it until it runs out of gas in carb. Don't know any way you could do that on fuel injected engines. I've had several folks say that Sea Foam mixed in gas helps, haven't had a good chance to try that out. Go to Genie website, www.gogenielift.com You can download the operators manual there and see what the button on the panel is.
I will run some seafoam in it. Genie doesnt show an exploded view of the controller but the part is $48!!!! Never seen a decal cost that much. Guess i will just have to play around till i figure it out.
This may sound like a silly question but does LP fuel go bad? I went to get a lift ready for a job today and it would barely stay running. I switched out the tanks and it runs fine now. Any ideas? The problem tank is nearly new by the way
Hmm, never had that happen before, strange. Does your LP tank distributor have any ideas?
Havent called them yet. I left the tank in the heated room in our shop. I am thinking as cold as it was today maybe the tank was frozen or something due to the cold weather. I am going to put it back on tomorrow and see what happens
LP systems are tricky: 1st: Is the tank positioned properly? The holes in the protective flange over valves are to be down,over a male stud protruding from the carrier bracket. This puts the feed tube inside it going down to lower level inside tank. If upside down, you are sucking vapor-LP is liquid withdrawal. Will barely run unit. Was the hose connected snugly to the tank? Was the hand valve turned on SLOWLY? LP has many safetys..... There is a check valve in the outlet hand valve. If you connect the hose to a fresh tank and spin the valve open quickly, it considers you have a busted hose and shuts you off. You must undo the hose (shake it in the air), press the hose end against a protruding bolt or pin to release the check valve in the hose end (spews the little gas and pressue trapped in hose-Don't poke in it with a tool). Now, screw the hose end back on to the tank slowly and get tight. THEN..... SLOWLY crack the tank valve with your head and good ear close to it. You will hear a gentle SIGH as gas flows. Tank is telling that you finally got it it right. You could have turned the first one on too fast and it locked up. Ran on what was in the hose till out. You swapped tanks and got it mounted right and on right. If a new/nearly new steel tank could be the cutting oil and drill/tapping shavings when being made are clogging your outlet. This has happened several times over the years with new tanks, not only LGP ones. If warm up don't clear it, bleed if off in wide open place with no ditch/low place nearby. (LPG goes down) Remove the outlet valve adapter fitting, then the valve, then the guage assembly. Blow compressed air down the hole you removed the outlet valve from. This will clear the feed tube running from bottom up to valve exit. Turn it upside down, shake and jar it some, let set a day. Reinstall removed pieces and get filled. Reconnect by above and fire her up. These instructions are based on knowledge and money I made sending a mechanic say 50 miles, at $40.00 per hour (then) for a service call. It's got gas, just filled the tank.... I know how to open a valve...... Blah Blah. Rotate the tank, disconnect and reconnect and fire her up. Sign here; sir. PS-The shaking the hose is just to be sure you did have it completely separated. Can't loosen and re tighten. Inside ends are still together. End of LP GAS 501 for forklifts, man-lifts, and sweepers.
i have been told that propane doesnt go bad like gasoline. hope it is true because i have a 500? gallon tank buried and an old military generator converted to propane.
Could not say. Never had enough around long enough to find out. Our use was mostly 33 1/3 lb tanks on forklifts,manlifts, and the 20 lb tank on sweepers.
So now this lift sounds like it is steering off the electric motor driving the hydraulics. Is that normal? When you go to turn it wines like the electric motor is on and it bogs the engine down. I think that is the last bug to work out. Here is the manual.... i feel silly for asking all these questions when i have it! I truely appreciate the help! http://manuals.gogenielift.com/Parts And Service Manuals/data/Parts/Scissors/65758.pdf Its a 4390 2002 model
Are you talking about the Emergency Power electric motor? I kinda doubt that's the case. You have to operate a switch to make that motor operate, nothing about the steering circuit will activate that motor. I think it's more likely you're hearing the whine of hyd oil being run through a relief valve, that's why your motor is loading up. Check your steering compoents carefully. I recall a thread here some time back that had a JLG scissor that had difficulty steering and would pop open relief valve. Turned out to be one, or both, steering knuckles were siezed causing it to turn really hard.
Thats what i thought. It over at my brother in laws at the moment so i will have him look at it. What does a relief valve look like? I have a snorkel tb60 that the boom retract pulsaites. The mechanic said there was dirt or something in the valve. Would that be the same kind of valve?
Relief valves are cartridge type valves, you should find the steering relief valves located in the function manifold. Download your service manual and it should show you where they are located in the manifold along with the steering solenoid valves. Jack the front of the machine off the ground and see if it steers then without any noise. You could also disconnect the steer cylinders where they connect to the steer knuckles and see how hard it is to turn the wheels with a long prybar with it jacked off the ground. If it's very hard to turn wheels, better start looking for siezed steering pivots. Pulsating boom on a Snrokel TB? Is it just the tip section that pulsates? Or the mid section as well? If it's the tip section only, then most likely it's the extend/retract cables aren't tensioned properly.
I really dont know for sure but i want to say its the first boom. I do remember the mechanic calling it a cartridge valve that was plugged or bad though I will check the steering arms when i get it back, thanks
Proper aerial lift boom terminology. Main section; the boom section attached to the lower machine. Mid Section(s); the section or sections of boom that telescope out of the main boom. Tip, or, Fly section; the final telescoping boom section that the basket (platform) is attached to. Cartridge valves rarely get plugged, except for maybe pieces of o-ring or back up ring fragments. Then it typically holds them open and the function will struggle to operate if it operates at all. If you have a tip section surging on a Snorkel, but the mid section operates smoothly, extend/retract cables not tensioned properly.
I guess my first question is do the booms all go out at the same time or one section at a time? The thing is buried in the back of the lot at the moment so i cant test that question. If they go out one at a time (i.e. 1, 2,3) then i would say that it is the cables. I have owned this machine for 5-6 years and i know they have never been adjusted. How is that done? Do you do it with a torque wrench on the adjusters? I take it you guys have several lifts??
Nope, I've just been working on aerial lifts since the mid 80's. The TB60 is a three section boom. Main section, and two telescoping sections. The telescope cylinder is attached directly to the main section and the mid section which means the mid section should telescope smoothly as the cylinder extends/retracts. If the mid section is jerky or surges, you've got a hyd problem with telescope cylinder. The tip section is extened/retracted by cables attached to the tip section and the main section. The cables go around cable sheaves on the telescope cylinder, so as the cylinder moves in and out, it extend and retracts the tip section. Since the tip section is operated by cables, if they are too loose, the cables will sag (sort of). As the cylinder extends/retracts, it will take up the slack in the cables, tip section will move, the stop again because of cable slack. That an exageration of what happens. It makes a jerky/surging motion of extending and retracting the tip section. Every manufacturer has a recommended method of adjusting the cable tension. You may find that spec in the manuals, or call Snorkel. But you can typically just tighten the cables until the tip section quits surging. But you want to make sure your problem isn't caused by excessive friction from worn wear pads or bent boom sections which are problems of their own that need addressed. The pic below shows the adjusters for the cables. The retract cables are circled at the left, the extend cables are circled on the right.
I know we're jumping around here but i had a new problem develop. I got that s-65 that the rotator motor leaks and needs re-sealed. I took the basket off and attemped to remove the set screws in the bottom 'attemped'! Anyway i tried everything i could think of and couldnt get them out. I took the rotator completely off and tried popping the plate back and forth to take the side strain off the screws and that didnt help. In the midst of that i stripped the set screw, so i went and bought an easy out which stripped out immediately (damn you autozone). Last thing i did was try to drill them out and tap it for a bigger set screw. Before i go too far is this what you would do? If so, any tips? Thanks!
You may have already entered into "before I go too far" with that one. Allen head set screws are very unforgiving with ez outs, drill bits, etc. because they are hardned steel. And without seeing it firsthand, would be hard to advise the best way to deal with the buggered up set screw. As for set screws in general, if one doesn't break loose relatively easy, stop right there. The best tool to deal with tight set screws, aside from itty bitty ones, is a good quality hand impact driver, the one you whack with a hammer. Set the allen bit in the set screw, don't put any turn pressure on it at first, just a few good whacks driving into the set screw. Then start whacking using a slight unscrew turn of the impact tool. If it still doesn't turn, a few more whacks straight on. This will usually knock them loose. Just don't turn with hard turning pressure and mess up the hex.
Im not completely sure what the hand impact is. I did use a allen socket and before i turned it i popped it several times with a hammer to try to shock the treads. This is a 4mm allen. I only did the easy out with the one i damaged the hex on. Also, i only drilled the one that was stripped. If this is a delicate process i am guessing i would be better to take it to the local machine shop and have them do it? I dont even want to know what a new rotator costs! Ever re-pack one of these? I was told to make sure that i mark the position of the worm gear before i take it all the way out. Had to look at a parts breakdown on jlg website (genie doesnt have teardown for this) doesnt look too hard to do...... if i could get the dang thing apart!
Yes, I have done several different types of rotate motors, seems they are all different in some way. Take your time, be patient, mark everything (orientation) as you take it apart. They are typically not hard to work on, aside from uncooperative set screws. But there are so many versions of rotate motors it's hard to give specific advice on rebuilding one. Here's the type of hand impact driver I'm referring to. http://www.google.com/products/cata...log_result&ct=image&resnum=4&ved=0CDkQ8gIwAw#
Well you taught me something today! I had one of those things in my tool box this whole time and never knew what it was. I think i bought a couple of tool boxes at an auction and they were in there.
LoL! I first used a hand impact tool back in the early 70's to remove allen head bolts of the engine covers of Jap motorcycles.