Hello, I have a 2002 genie towable boom lift that comes up with error code "0000" when switched on to either ground or bucket control position. This happened once before. Left it alone for a while after checking all connections. Switched it on, code went to 0015 (ground control pad fault), then suddenly went to four dashes (normal operating), and worked. Then, another day, all was working well, swtiched from ground to bucket controls, and same "0000" error code. Nothing works. I replaced the bucket control touch pad as a result of a conversation with the genie factory service tech. They're not very helpful, as they are only interested in sending you to an authorized service dealer. Problem is, I'm building way up north in NH, a long ride with a genie dragging behind. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance if you can help! sg
Nice. The manual doesn't even show a 0000 trouble code. We have a TMZ 34/19 on the lot that hasn't moved in about 6 years because it also has issues. The factory guys may not seem helpfull because they just don't know. There comes a point with these machines where they have to throw parts at it and hope something works. (one or both of the two main circut boards) There are some pretty sharp Genie on this site, hopefully one of them will have something more for you.
do you have access to a laptop with a 9-pin serial port or a USB to Serial Adaptor? At the lower control box on the bottom is a connector to interface with a computer. Message me an e-mail address and I will get the program to you for your laptop. This will assist you in troubleshooting your communication error. I would imagine that the Genie service tech asked if the boards at the upper and lower controls were the same color? Green or Blue? They must be the same. Also, are the DIP Switches on the cpu board set in the correct positions?
Thanks so much for your reply, and sorry not to get back to you sooner! Been on the road. Yes I have a laptop, and the required cord. I didn't check the dip switches, as this error statrted while already in use, but I will double check against the repair manual (downloaded from Genie) specs. The control boards were all updated to the blue versions. My email is [email protected] . I really appreciate the help! I bought this machine to build a dream house up in NH. Started building (own 2 hands) back in 2008, and like so many folks have taken quite a hit in the pocketbook. My day job is retail advertising on commission.
Hi again, I received an email from you after your generous offer to help by sending the diagnostic progam. However, the email only contained a notice from the postmaster that the attachement was undeliverable because there was no file extension? Not sure what that means...I did reply to your email, but again unsure if it got back to you. I was hopeful to be able to try to fix the lift with your help, as my current situation is that I can't bring the machine some 90 miles to a dealer service that would certainly be more than I can afford right now. I'd be able, and happy, to pay any postage and consultation expenses you might need. Just let me know if that's the case, and if you can't help, also just let me know, and I'll keep searching. Again, I appreciate your input.
Ethically, I cannot, and would not want to, be able to charge for a service. My only reward is to assist others keep the old gear up and running. The issue with this machine model is that it utilizes a microcontroller based control system. Genie makes an upgrade kit to replace the upper and lower control boxes (microcontroller) with relay based control boxes. It is a great improvement to install but is pricey to say the least. anyway, the 0000 generally means that there is an input already present when the control sytem is turned on. This is usually caused by a damaged or shorted switch at either the upper or lower control touch pad. Being you already changed the upper touchpad, lets look at the lower control touchpad. The next time the 0000 code comes up: turn the machine off, open the lower control box lid, disconnect the plug from the touchpad (ribbon cable) connected to the circuit board that is mounted to the lid. After removing this plug, turn the power back on to see if the 0000 code is gone. If it is, then one of the buttons on the pad is shorted. If the code is still there, then the search will continue for a ghost input. a loose e-prom can also cause this condition.
OK, I'll try the connection first. I had replaced the lower pad when I first bought the machine, as it stopped working and came up with 0015 code. The pad was very worn looking, and when replaced, she came back to life! Not sure how soon I can get back to NH, but will check in as soon as I try the pad connections. What is an "e-prom"? Or where do I look for it, them? I appreciate yout time and help!
Where can the replacement controller be purchased. I have paid more than they can cost having my lift repaired only to have the same 0015 error code appear almost every time we need to use it on a job. I asked the authorize folks and they said nothing was offered. Glad I came across this post.
With manual operated outriggers: part # 104867: TMZ34 from serial # T3498-001 to T3499-769 part # 104866: TMZ34 after serial # T3400-001 With hydraulic operated outriggers: part # 104855: all TMZ34 with hydraulic outriggers. available through any major rental yard or other authorized Genie, Terex AWP distributor/dealer a few places witha quick Google search: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp...9b32cb13d2b354&bpcl=35466521&biw=1024&bih=524
Let me start by saying THANK YOU VoodooMojo! You were right on the money! I unplugged the base pad decal, and sure enough, the unit re-set properly, and I was able to operate the lift from the bucket controls! Still wasn't sure if the problem was the pad, or in the circuitry. I did notice when I plugged the ground pad back in, pushing eack control button to try and narrow down the porblem, that when I pushed the auto level button, the display flashed to 0015. So, traced the ribbon from the button to the pin connector, re-connected the pad, pushing that pin out of the way...Voila! Everything (except auto level) worked!!! Again, I offer my most sincere thanks to you. You have re-instilled my faith in mankind! A perfect stranger taking precious time to help! I would be remiss if I didn't pass along thanks to this forum...a great site and platform! I only hope I can pass it forward!
VoodooMojo, I can't thank you enough for the information about the replacement controller. I have asked my local guys about something like this almost twice a year (each time I had controller problems) for the past 3-4 years and been told nothing like this existed. I ordered one and spent the last two evenings installing it. Will be calling Genie on Monday as I cannot seem to make the jib work from the upper controller even after checking the connections on the cable, but other than that, the lift is again working and I don't expect I will have the same issues as with the electronic that seemed to always go out in the middle of a job. Thank you again
it may just be the contact block at the upper control jib switch a couple questions: Does the Jib work from the lower controls? Do the Primary and Secondary Booms function correctly from the upper controls?
yes, ground control works the jib and all other functions work from the upper controls.
Did you get a hold of Genie?
There is nothing different going on at the upper or lower controls. Does the pump start when the jib switch at the upper controls is pressed?
Did not manage to speak to anyone this week. Nothing happens when I try the jib , pump never starts. Everything else works fine.
We will need to check, with a voltmeter, voltage at the Upper Control Jib Select Switch Green Wire and then the same wire at the Lower Control Jib Select Switch while the Upper Control Jib Select Switch is pressed. The Upper Control Jib Select Switch and Lower Control Jib Select Switch are wired in parallel to each other. Somewhere between the two, the signal from the upper to the lower is being lost. We need to find it. If you would like assistance with this, I can give you my number and I have a pretty good feeling that we will find the problem.
Thanks for the information. As is usual with Me, the most simplistic was the last to check. I did check the cable at all points, then for the first time removed the cover for the upper control to find the jib control switch was in two pieces. Apparently it was not seated when the retainer clip was installed. Lift works great now. Thanks for all your help and especially your offer to talk me thru it. Thought I was going to need it when the leads were good to the platform.
Hi All I have a Genie TMZ 34/19 2002 build year has fault code 00001 was ok prior now all outrigger lights flash and continuous alarm sounds and all functions except turntable will not operate...any ideas?
are the outriggers down and the machine level? are the outriggers up and will not come down? 0001 is a safety circuit fault. The ecu thinks: The booms are not stowed and the outriggers are not down. a limit switch will be the cause We need to know the state of the machine. What positions are the booms and outriggers? The first place to check is the large black plug connection attached at the bottom (left side) of the lower control box. (on the circuit board inside the box the word 'outrigger' is written) It is the I/O of all the limit switches from the outriggers and booms. Pull the plug loose and check for connectors not pushed all the way into the plug. Also check the connectors to see if they are spread out too far and not making good connection with the pins on the circuit board. If this area is ok and the outriggers are down and making contact, and the booms are lowered fully, we will need to check the limit switches. Here is a clip from the schematic:
Many Thanks VooDoo Mojo The setting of the machine at present is how I last put it away in my shed and that is : All outriggers up Booms fully down as we do set for towing. Was operational last time I used it. Last time I used it when putting in the shed I cleaned the platform and in doing so lifted the boom from the lain controls rather than the platform that I normally do just for cleaning purposes. Then when I went to use it after charging and turned it on all the outrigger lights flashed and kept flashing. They normally stop flashing and allow me to put the outriggers down and the light for each then come on normally. The condition that they are in presently with the outrigger lights flashing it does not allow me to put any outriggers down. The turntable attempts to rotate but of course it cant because the boom is fully down and does not allow it to turn because it is locked in the V rest. Idid some testing in accordance with your schematic. With the machine off and in its present fully stowed position I checked the following. The large black plug to make sure the all the connectors are in their positions, Using a tester I did the following: With the plug unplugged I checked pin 25 and 24 and found complete circuit. I checked pin 22 and pin 10 and found complete circuit I tested 16 and 4 and found complete circuit I tested pin 20 and pin 8 and found open circuit I tested pin 30and pin 19 and found open circuit I tested pin 33 and 23 and found complete circuit I tested pin 14 and pin 3 and found complete circuit I tested pin pin 18 and pin 6 and found open circuit I tested pin 29 and pin 17 and found open circuit I tested pin 32 and 21 and found complete circuit So these all appear to be as per the schematic The LS27 I do not know where that is although it tested in the circuit with LS2 and LS11 ok it says in the schematic that LS27 is turntable but I do not see any limit switch for the turntable unless it is inside the gear assembly area which is really hard to tell with all booms down etc. I tested the batteries with the voltmeter and found each of the 4 batteries to be 6 volt or slightly under and reconnected and tested at the quick release and found just under the 24 volts which on my tester then showed about 23 volts fully charged. After doing this testing I checked the large plug and re plugged it in and turned the machine on and found the lights will still flash and alarm sound preventing from activating the outriggers.
Use the B- connection of the motor controller as a ground connection for your voltmeter. Verify that there is 24 volts at terminals 24 and 22 of the outrigger plug with the power turned on at the upper and lower controls. All connections in their correct places. This is coming from the ecm. If the voltage is not there, the ecm is defective. With the machine in the stowed position there should be 24 volts at terminals 25 and 10. This is showing the limit switch circuits are working correctly. If the voltage is not there, there is an open in the limit switch circuit. Could be a switch or wire. If so: TEMPORARILY run a jumper wire between terminals 24 and 25 and another jumper wire across terminals 22 and 10. If the alarms and flashing quit then it is evident there is an open in the limit switch circuit. NEVER operate the machine with the limit switch circuit by-passed. This is for testing ONLY.
Hello VoodooMojo Oh thanks for your help. I will check that in the morning If the ECM defective does that mean a new circuit board? I guess thats the expensive bit too. Will let you know what I find
Hello VoodooMojo Ok I tested for the ecm as per instructions: I unplugged the large plug I turned the machine on I tested pin 24 and pin 22 of the open plug with a voltmeter using the B- as the ground and found no voltage This as you say means that the ecm is defective. I also tested pin 22 and 10 and there was also no voltage It is amazing that you know so much about these machines which is a tremendous help to guys like me that have no knowledge at all. What is the next step?
the "solder and heat shrink later" note in the above drawing refers to after the jumper wires are removed and the original wires are placed back in the circuit.
Well thanks for your advice and we are certainly learning about this testing. So starting again: With every plugged and all connections in correct places. I tested and found 24 volts at pin 24 and pin 22 I also tested and found 24 volts at pin 25 and 10 I then used a jumper wire between pin 22 and pin 10 and another jumper wire between 24 and 25 turned the machine on and still find that the outrigger 4 lights flash and the alarm sounds so the machine is still not behaving correctly even with the jumpers in place. I guess this means that the problem as you say is ecm generated?
Recently did the upgrade on the controls for the 34/19 and once I found the switches in the controllers don't seat perfectly sometimes, I had the lift working fine. On about the 3rd job, everything still worked fine except the turntable. Switch for the turn table activates the valve, but not the pump (turns manually with ease, but not under power). Any suggestions on the cure for this. I have checked connections, but am not sure at what point the relay for the pump receives power through this switch. All other controls start the pump just fine.
Is it the same problem from both the upper and lower control station or just one of the stations has the issue?
If you could take a few voltage measurements we can narrow this down to the source of the problem: 1)...do you have 24 volts on terminal 20 at the lower control box when you press the Rotate switch and the Up or Down switch? yes or no? 2)...do you have 24 volts on terminal 22 at the lower control box when you press the Rotate switch and the Up or Down switch? yes or no? 3)...do you have 24 volts on terminal 23 at the lower control box when you press the Rotate switch and the Up or Down switch? yes or no? 4)...do you have 24 volts on terminal 37 at the lower control box when you press the Rotate switch and the Up or Down switch? yes or no? 5)...do you have 24 volts on terminal 1 at the DC Motor Controller when you press the Rotate switch and the Up or Down switch? yes or no? 6)...how many volts are present on terminal 3 at the DC Motor Controller when you press the Rotate switch and the Up or Down switch?
Checked 20,22,23,&37. Ironically, with wire 22 disconnected from the top terminal of the top left relay, the lift rotates and operates fine. I am not sure to what you are refering as the DC Motor Controller. Any ideas why it is working fine without the wire connected and what I should look for?
The DC Motor Controller is the component that does not look unlike this: Looking at the schematic with the relay you disconnected while it is connected, current flow looks like this: Relay 10 (A) is the relay you disconnected. When it is connected, it will activate when Rotate is activated. This takes the 3.3 volt Zener circuit from relay 7 (E) via Relay 14 through Relay 10 (A) and adds the Voltage Divider network (C) which will further reduce the 3.3 volts down to about 1.8 volts. This will result with a lower voltage applied to Terminal 3 of the Motor Controller. This will result with a slower rotate speed. Looking at the schematic with the relay you disconnected while it is disconnected, current flow looks like this: Looking at Relay 10 (A), the output is not directed to the Normally Opened (87) post of the relay but instead through the Normally Closed (87A) post. This will bypass the Voltage Divider circuit (C) and Diode B and put the 3.3 volt Zener circuit voltage to the Motor Controller Terminal 3. This will result with a quicker Turntable Rotate speed. This was the importance of the voltage reading at Terminal 3. The problem is somewhere between Post 87 of Relay 10 (A) and the Cathode side of the Diode B (the side with the stripe). Loose or open connection at the 1K ohm resistor from post 87 of relay 10, at the junction of that resistor and the diode, the diode itself may be open, or the connecten at the cathode side of the diode. Here is a drawing of the wiring diagram simplified:
Wow... what a great help. The test would indicate the diode is indeed open. Any suggestions what might have caused this to happen? I have little issue in aquiring a new diode, but if there is an issue, I would like to look into that first.
Diode manufacturers pop out more diodes than Carter's has little liver pills! There is a good chance that a few bad ones come along every now and then. (I dont know how many little liver pills Carters has or if they even still make them or if Carter's is still in the market of making little liver pills. It is something we used to say years ago and I wanted to say it again for some unknown reason.) The diodes are 6 amp with a PIV of at least 200 volts. There is nothing in the circuit other than a direct short across the diode at one time that would damage it. You will want to check the two 1KΩ resistors to verify one or both are not open/shorted or have a bad connection.
I also have TMZ34 I hope you can help me with. Its about a 1999 machine w/ manual downriggers. We used it earlier this week, no problems. It went out today and after leveling up and turning on, the horn sounds constantly, not beeping as it does when its unhappy. No controls work, Error code is '----'. I have been unable to find this condition in the manuals. This machine has occasional bouts of not working, but usually comes back to life by closing it up and then setting up again, also no error codes. Its always stored indoors, has recent batteries. Any suggestions? Thanks, Scott
diligently check the connections on the J7 Power plug located at the bottom of the lower controls box. Be sure to trace out the circuits as well. the serial number is an important thing. models change as time goes by.
I will check. For reference SN T3400-154 Schematic ES0209 Thanks, Scott
here is ES0209 for your machine: Left side of schematic: Right side of schematic: they can be pasted side by side for a complete drawing. Two thoughts Has any option (alarm, beacon light, horn, work lights etc) been added to the machine recently? It is very important to not have any component tied to a chassis ground. Also check the battery supply connector at the bottom of the lower control box. From the inside of the box. Make sure there is at least 20 volts present with power turned on. This is the 2-pin large wire plug. edit: disregard the schematic in post #36. It is for machines with T3499-xxx serial numbers
First, I really appreciate your help. No options have ever been added to this unit, other than a floor in the basket (the aluminum expanded metal floor failed early on) It started working the next day- it was left set up overnight, but would occasionally stop working and then start again after some jiggling. Its back at my shop now, I will check your suggestions, Thanks, Scott
The jiggling thing sounds like the connections at the plug. The female pins open up after awhile. They make a bad connection now and then. With all power off, disconnect the plugs from the control box. Remove the plastic cap and ever-so-carefully squeeze the pins back into shape. Also be sure the pins are held in place when the plug is reattached to the control box. Sometimes they get pushed back a bit. The plug at the platform pivot where the upper controls cable attaches can be a pain in the neck also.
I came across some posts of TMZ owners that you helped out. I'm at my whit's end and am ready to hurt something.....LOL. I sure would appreciate some of your knowledge. The machine is a TMZ34/19. S/N T3401-328. Electric Sch #ES0209 VIN #5D8AA19171R000328 Batteries were replaced last year. (2) motor controllers in the last 3 years which I believe was due to bad batteries. The control boards are the original green boards. The lift gets used very little and sits for weeks at a time in my driveway. It was acting really bad before I changed the batteries last year. The new batteries seemed to fix the controller issues until a few days ago. The ground controls work perfectly for the time being. The basket controls are intermittent at best. Might work for a few seconds and then quit. The basket will not work at all. If I extend the basket from the ground control and then switch the key to basket control, the basket will immediately retract without pushing the down button. The other jib cylinders stay in place when the key is switched. All functions seem to work perfectly from the ground control. Basket controls are the problem. My machine doesn't have the error display. You mentioned that you had a computer program. Any chance it's still available? I will be more than happy to compensate your time. Best Regards, Chuck Castiglione 310 Mercer Rd. Greenville, PA. 16125 [email protected] 724-813-2102
I did some checking this morning and found the following: 1. All of the ground controls work perfectly. 2. None of the platform controls work. 3.with Ground Control active: I can hear the basket solenoid click as each of the buttons are pressed. All buttons except rotation. 4. Platform Control Active: The platform solenoid clicks for all buttons except the "Down Basket" and rotation buttons. 5. If the basket is raised with the ground control, it will immediately drop if the key is switched to "Platform". I tried to plug the platform touchpad ribbon connector into the ground control pc board but the ground control ribbon plug has more connector pins so I didn't push them together. With the platform touchpad ribbon connector unplugged, I used my ohm meter to look for continuity of any two of the ribbon wires and all combinations were infinity. Regards, Chuck
I broke down and bought the BLUE BOARD's. The installation took about an hour. The only wiring was to connect the new four wire harness to the key switch. When I plugged in the main battery connector the pump motor began running but the lift didn't move. Both E-Stops were pushed in and the key was off. I unplugged it immediately then checked all connections and found nothing wrong. Plugged it back in ,the motor began running, and unplugged it. About 5 seconds later the "one year old" DC motor controller blew up like an M80 going off. After some trouble shooting I found that the motor controller was shorted through it to battery ground. The ground control of the lift worked perfectly 5 minutes before I began installing the new blue boards. I'm not sure what caused the controller to short out, but it must have happened when I plugged the battery in the first time. I disconnected the wires from the B+ terminal and taped them up so they wouldn't ground out. Then I plugged the battery in. I pulled both E-Stops and as soon as I turned the key on the horn began beeping, on and off for about 20 seconds and then stopped. There are two green LED's on the pc board. The E-STOP LED was ON. The OUTRIGGER LED was OFF. I hit the ESTOP to shut it down. Then turned the unit back on. I did this a few times and the unit never beeped. The jib boom was raised about a foot from when I ran the unit before changing the boards. I tried to lower it and it worked fine. Connected VOM to the #1 wire to DC controller and the voltage was correct when I pressed the buttons. Same for the #3 wire. I found nothing wrong with any wiring or plugs. All wires are insulated and in good shape. As of now, I cannot find anything that was out of place. Just ordered (GN-160431) a new DC controller with a contactor kit that GENIE recently began installing. It's a relay that disconnects the battery from the B+ terminal on the motor controller. It looks like the #1 wire "ENABLE" 24V signal is used to pull the relay in. They say that it will keep the controller from catching fire or blowing up. We'll see.... The controller and contactor will be here in a few days and hopefully everything works.
I installed the new contactor and all of the new cables. The directions were written well. The contactor is a essentially a heavy duty relay that connects the battery to the DC controller every time a button is pressed and then disconnects the battery when the button is released. My guess is that the DC controllers will last much longer since they only see power when a button is pressed. Let's hope so. Only issue was (1) wire that was originally connected from (P1 Pin 1) to the B+ terminal on the controller. This wire needs to be connected to constant battery voltage, not the contactor. I connected it to the 175 amp fuse. The lift works great and it only cost me about $2500 and some time. I bought everything through www.gciron.com . Frank helped me out as best as he could. Anyone know of a company that buys sets of green boards? The new boards were built in by York Products in York, PA. I would think that some enterprising sparky would figure out how to repair the green boards and resell them. Maybe someday......
New problem with my TMZ34/19. I have previous posts in this thread with machine info. Using my machine today OK. left it set up, after lunch it quit working. No lights or display at lower panel. Checked power at all Troubleshooting Chart 1 locations. Got 25v at: 1)both E-stops both sides, 2)key switch in platform and ground positions 3)both sides of circuit breaker Have removed main power, let sit and reconnected with no change. E-Stop green LED is on, on main board (goes off when either E-Stop activated) Boards are blue BTW. Anything like a shorted input or output that could keep the main board from booting up? If its a bad board, any way to identify the problem board without buying and swapping, hoping for the best? Thanks, Scott
I have TMZ-34/19 with similar issue but don't have LED readout (G8 Diagnostic Display). Outriggers down and locked, all lights solid green, batteries show full charge, have 24 volts. Newer motor controller, doesn't appear to be bad. Went up, then back down, now nothing, can't retract outriggers, can't move boom. Is software available to use computer to help diagnose?
I need that software too if its available. Just put new circuit boards in mine and I now have error code 0100. Guess what, that doesn't appear in any of the manuals!
If your unit has a serial port for diagnostics this should apply to you. Genie tech that I talked to pointed me to this link ( ftp://ftp.genieindustries.com/Chris H/ ) and said to download TMZ Monitor.exe. He also said that you must connect to the unit serial-to-serial from a computer; it will not recognize a serial-to-USB adapter. Apparently this program allows you to watch what the processor sees as you press buttons on the unit so you can compare input versus what the processor sees/tries to do. I did not try to use it yet so thats about all I can offer.
Can I get the program. IS there any way I could get the program? I am having the same problem. My email is [email protected]
genie 34/19 pc software. HI, I was wondering if you still have the software for the laptop. If so, may you email it to me at [email protected]
Hello, I have the same problems, has anyone TMZ Monitor.exe and sent me a link PLS?
Hi forum members, may i gently ask for the TMZMonitor.exe file, we have huge problems with a Genie TMZ50 with blue boards and it is not allowing us to extend outriggers, only downwards function do work. Once we remove green (data-) wire from platforms control, the ground controls do work again. I checked switch settings and setup according to manual docs. Does anyone have schematics of the blue circuit boards itself? SMD Q1 seems to be burnt, our genie Connector BD has printed pn starting with 7618 RevB but on google pics it is 76383 I changed the Q1 with same part from Platform Control donor board we have, and it is still not working burnt also donor smd transistor now
I recently bought a 2003 34/19 with hydraulic stabilizers. The machine has new batteries, a new # 83046 blue CPU board, and a new motor controller. The CPU powers up normally with no error codes (----) and the horn works from both ground and platform controls but nothing else works. The booms are locked down and the stabilizers are fully retracted. I manually checked all 14 solenoids as good and the CPU does detect solenoid "open" condition and flags the error if I unplug any of them. Also all of the battery charge lights are all on but the beacon is not flashing (if I bypass the CPU and power up the beacon it works). I can see data activity on the 9 pin serial port with an oscilloscope but do not have a PC serial adapter to see what it is yet. It seems the processor is running fine but is "waiting" for some condition before enabling the pump to allow the stabilizers to come down (the pump motor controller is not getting enabled). I have seen others with the same symptoms on this forum in the past. I have three questions: 1) Has anyone found the problem causing this behavior and solved it? 2) Does anyone have any info about that 9 pin data port and what info it reports? 3) Does anyone know where the "Negative Boom Angle Switch" is on a 34/19? I suspect the negative angle switch may not be working correctly.
OK, I see there is not much activity here (no response to my last post). One more try. I found the Negative Boom Angle switch and it is working. The processor is running and detects the upper, lower, and jib boom retracted switches and will sound the chirp alarm it I trip the switches. The motor controller and pump motor are working when I bypass the control box and give the motor controller the 24v Enable signal combined with a +4v Speed signal. The data port is transmitting at 4800 baud and recognizes a serial to USB adapter by flashing one of the LEDs under the CPU board when I connect it, but I still can not see any data. The processor is running with no errors and is detecting things like the horn button, the boom retracted switches and the battery voltage but it seems to "waiting" for something. I have been holding down one of the "function enable" buttons several seconds and pressing "Extend Outriggers" with no response. I also checked the level sensor and it is reading about 2.5v on both the X and Y axis when the machine is level just like it is supposed to. Does anyone have any info on that 9 pin Serial Data port? It would be very useful to see what events the processor is seeing!
FYI, I found the problem on the Connector Board of my 34/19 and fixed it. Now everything is working!! Happy days.
Can you tell us what the problem was? Happy that you fixed your board =)
Hello all. I've got a genie TMZ 50/30 that flashes code 0001 I've tried to use old posts on here to figure it out but the wiring diagrams and pin locations are different than the one I have. It is currently in the stored position ready to haul down the road. So when I turn the key on it beeps an the outrigger lights flash on the pad. I've checked the switches at the pads on the outriggers an they all appear to be operating correctly so I'm not sure where to go at this point the battery's are charged an have 24 volts
Any chance anyone has the TMZ software? DM me or email [email protected] Currently working on a TMZ50 trying to keep it out of the scrap pile.
Whats going on with it?
Generally unit turns on with no errors. Motor Control does not function with using keypad. Bypass motor control (effectively hot wire the pump motor to battery power) and keypad will actuate all functions except the following: Auto Level (Unknown issue), Rotate (Brake probably not releasing). I've bench tested the motor control and am confident it's not working. Bench testing included placing control voltage 0-5Vdc to the control pins resulting in no output on the high current terminals. I'm sending the unit out for 2nd opinion and rebuild if necessary. So, I'm taking a systematic approach to getting the unit back online before bringing back to Genie dealer for re-cert. I put in new correct batteries, repaired damaged basket connection, and confirmed all E-Stop and Limit Switches (one leveling pad limit needs to be replaced but is connected to diagnostic toggle switch for now). Don't really know how to test the limit switch or level sensor. Can't find schematic for level sensor and am afraid to bench test since I don't know the theory of operation and dont wanna fry it is it's good. $600+ part, Yikes! Would love to be able to connect to the controls to validate they are all functional. That's why I'm looking for the software...
Anyone...