The rod is 1.25 inch and the bore is 2.5 inch. I cannot get the top gland nut off. I have a gland nut tool and have slid a floor jack handle over my breaker bar and it won't budge. I have tried peening, but not exactly sure how to do it. I have an 8oz and 16oz ball peen hammer. I am hammering in a straight line down, right below the nut for about 2 inches and then move to the next line and work down again. I make about 6-8 lines to get around. Each line is about 6 hits. How many hits are expected to get some action? Do I have the right method? Need larger hammer? I don't want to deform. I haven't tried heat yet. The gland nut is aluminum the cylinder is steel. The other side came off so easy. This side is not interested. I have not screwed up the pin holes yet. Thanks.
Nice to see a pic of type of gland nut. I sometimes resort to a 4 ft pipe wrench with a 5 ft pipe over that. That process can chew the gland nut up pretty good but it will turn. Make sure you removed the set screw. If all else fails get the torch out and heat that baby up and be ready with pipe wrench.
Aluminum inside steel can be a tough one. Peening works best on steel on steel, I don't know about an aluminum gland. Heating is problematic also, aluminum has twice the heat conductivity of steel, and twice the expansion, or something like that. I would use the 16 oz hammer, flat side not ball pein end, hit a comfortable hard smack, just like you're spacing them, keep going around and around, different lines until all the paint is gone. If it doesn't move then, you could try heat. Last resort, get it hot enough it turns blue and the aluminum will give up, wait till it's cold to try to turn it. Last resort after that fails, you can always get another gland, or have one made easy enough.
More power just be careful not to get hurt when that pin wrench lets go thats where I like to go to a 4 ft pipe wrench and an excavator for leverage
Here are the pics. I was able to get one side off. But the other is stuck. I do not see any set screws. None on the first one for sure.
If you want the best grip on that gland, use a plate with two holes with grade 8 or better pins through it, with a ratchet strap around the base of the cylinder so it can't slip out. You can drill 2 or 4 more holes in the gland for more pins. If you weld aluminum, use an aluminum plate and weld it right to the gland. Eventually something will give, and then you figure out how to put the pieces back together.
These type cyls, can be a real bear to get apart if there is no oring above the threads to seal the threads from contamination. An air chisel with a 1" hammer head works good by hammering around the cyl. barrel at the threaded portion, get on it with your 4' pipe wrench and an extension if necessary. If that doesn't work, try heating the barrel with a torch
When I rebuilt the lift cylinders on my forklift, the glands were anaerobic sealed into place and required heat to get apart. I destroyed the first barrel finding this out before calling the Hyster dealer and them letting me in on that secret. The balance of the cylinders easily came apart after warming the barrel with an annular tip warming to 225 degrees via temperature indicating crayon.
Well, we got it out with a pipe wrench. The threads on the aluminum gland nut are corroded. I believe I need to purchase a new nut. We cleaned the cylinder side threads up nicely, but the gland nut side are pretty rough. I can screw it down by hand now, but they are pretty ugly. I will look at the cost of a new nut. It was never coming off with the tool. I used a pipe wrench and slid a pipe over that. Thanks.
Or can I save this?
Threads are pretty beat so how much a new one is and go from there
Thats the way I got mine off, a little heat on barrel than the 4ft pipe wrench with the 5ft pipe. Chewed mine up like your on outside of gland. Cleaned it up with wire wheel, a dab of lock tight and back together. On the larger ones I push the 4ft rigid with the backhoe bucket till the wrench starts to bend, if it still doesn't break loose while still under pressure from backhoe I whack it with sledge. The shock with pressure always has worked for me. Always use heat, that will break the bond of the lock tight if any was used.
Those threads aren't that bad. If they had galled like I was expecting, then the lower threads would have been deformed and mashed. I'd use it as it is, unless that cylinder is operating between your legs?
Yup, I am going to use it again. A new one is $205. I cleaned it up with my dremel and wire wheel. The threads are only bad from 1 o'clock to 5 o'clock on the top 2-3 threads. I can run the cap in and out by hand. I think it will be ok. We also smacked the cylinder with a ball peen hammer while I applied pressure with the pipe and wrench. It was stuck on there pretty well. Thanks to all for your help. The next step is to put in the new seals. I'll get to that next week. Thanks again.
This is one way to deal with a seized gland, albeit on a slightly larger scale.
Curtis is a very talented machinist. I've been watching his videos for quite awhile and really enjoy learning how he tackles repair and refurb work.
That is a pretty cool video. Slightly larger cylinder than mine.
OK, I am going to get back to finishing this repair. How do I clean the cylinder bores out? Do I rinse them with diesel? Any recommended procedures to get these rinsed and ready to close up? Thanks again.
I know you have it apart already but on many bobcat cylinders I have cut the base off the cylinder at the seam where it is welded and rebuilt from there. After you get rod and piston back together in the barrel pull it all the way out and weld cap back on
It is all fixed folks. Thank you very much. No leaks and seems that all is good. Thank you for all of your help.