The turn table is sticking From underneath the turn table where the swivel drive motor and gears are should the surfaces where all the plastic blocks run be greased? cheers Max
Well, there's two school's of thought,, those that say grease it, and those that say don't. LOL ,, great help i know. I have two G's and i've been doing an experiment for about a year now. One is being greased and one is not.. So far there has been no difference's in service... both need adjusting about the same time. I do think the drive gear is wearing a little faster on the non greased one. Maybe in another year I will be able to give you a better opinion.... Grampa
It was sticking and we have only just got it, then I found that it had just had new blocks and been shimmed for the same problem. I was not sure of the compound of the wear blocks with regard to grease, the operator has greased it and now it is good. we are in a wet tropical area so rust can form overnight on bare metal. i think grease will be the go here. Thanks Max Max
The argument against using grease, particularly in dusty conditions, is that it combines with the dust and produces something like a grinding paste that takes out the wear shoes faster. If the movement of the circle is not totally smooth after having had new shoes and been "adjusted" I would personally suspect the procedure set the circle clearance to the pinion and also to adjust the shoes. Maybe the circle isn't even correctly centralized.
Max, We used a spray dry graphite on the turn tables top and bottom and even the slide bushings, it handles the rust issue, lubes them and dirt and sand doesn't stick to it like it will with grease. best of luck...Clyde
Same here, I had a dealer mechanic scold me for greasing the circle. Went to dry lube on the brass shoes and still grease the pinion.
"dry spray graphite", like lubriplate?
Mitch, pretty sure it the same stuff but we used a couple local companies brands were available and cheaper, when I get a chance I'll see who made them ....Clyde
thanks to all for the info, As far as the adjustment goes this grader and a roller just come out of a cat dealer after service and pre purchase inspection, and the turntable was done. But that means nothing now days and especially where i am working. We are in a wet tropic location, it is very wet most of the time,dust is really not much of an issue, Iwould love to see some dut!! So we will just use grease, my operators are less than ideal. Local labor is cheap and we have to use it as part of the deal. If it were my machine i would be using dry lubes as suggested. cheers max
Greasing the turntable wear slides is a bad idea -- if you plan to keep the blade for a long time. If it's a short project and you intend to get rid of the machines, grease away. I'd have to say however, that your circle is probably not adjusted properly, as a Cat blade with a properly adjusted set of slides does not stick. No one ever said said that Cat mechanics are perfect. They can be undertrained, or just had a bad day. Call the dealer out and have them rework the adjustments under a service or sales warranty. Good Luck!
Thanks for the iput, In the long term i will work out how to set this turntable up properly myself, at the moment i have a few other machines to fix that are more important. I know mechanics can have a bad day, i am one and I do. I received a roller and a grader that went in to cat dealer for 500hr services and pre purchase inspection. The grader was to have the turntable repaired as it was an existing problem, it also come with no transmission oil showing on the dipstick. the roller has a coolant leak from the back of the water pump, low hyd oil and a vibe problem that was supposed to have been fixed, as well as other misc items. oil and water pump will be on the next plane. I could wear one or two items but this is a bit much. As far as calling the dealer, its a 3 leg plane flight to get the ones that worked on it here or a 3 day each way barge trip, so thats not going to happen. Thats cool though, dirt will get moved, wheels will turn and machines will break down, thats life here cheers max
Setting a grader circle is not difficult, but it needs to be done to a procedure (in other words in a certain order) and you can't afford to either skip steps or assume that something is right "because it looks OK". PM me with your machine Serial Number prefix and an e-maill address. I can send you a complete procedure for the process lifted from the Service Manual.
Several years ago I replaced all the wear slides in our Deere blade circle. I methodically read the service manual and adjusted everything to the manual specs. The circle would bind in a couple positions. It would move past them but slowly. I ran it and naturally, it eventually loosened up and worked fine. As Nige said it's not a difficult procedure but is extremely delicate for such big equipment. I wanted my circle as tight as possible so adjusted everything to minimum clearance specs which turned out to be a little too tight. I don't use grease to lube. I use slip plate or any teflon dry lube.
Bala, you're in a dirty, distant part of the world mate. Good luck to you.
Also amazing how if your circle is adjusted wrong it can take out the teeth on the pinion and also areas of teeth in the circle quick-style.
Surfer Joe, I am working in a lovely part of the world, limestone island covered in rain forest surrounded by coral reefs and deep ocean. I would prefer that the company I work for was not here. But some one will be cause there is gold in them there hills, so clear the tress and dig we will. Nige, appreciate the offer, i have to organize manuals etc, I will get back to you in a few weeks with machine details( sooner i will get someone to send them to me), I dont have them on hand and I fly home in a couple of hours for my break thanks Max
Keep us posted in your spare time Nige. I too, was once posted to a small island surrounded by the briny deep. I didn't like it which is why I never attempted to repeat it. Don't think there was ever any gold there however, only a few tourist dollars. Mind the bugs and other critters! If we can help you, don't hesitate to ask. Good Luck!
Can you send me procedure for setting up circle on 12g 3wc
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Guess what.? There isn't one. I'll have to knock something up using information cobbled together from other models. It may take a while. Meanwhile the basic adjustment procedure theory for any circle goes like this: - 1. Set the circle height with respect to the drawbar to achieve a vertical clearance that is within specification over the full 360-degree circumference of the circle. This is the "air gap" you see between the circle and the drawbar when you lift the moldboard off the ground. 2. Set the front-to-rear pinion contact depth taking into consideration any wear in the circle teeth at the front. They generally wear way more than the rear circle teeth because the pinion is in permanent contact with them. 3. Set the circle shoe radial adjustment to obtain the correct clearances and to ensure that the circle rotates smoothly in a true circle as opposed to a series of jumps & jerks.
done 14000 hrs on a12h kept on top off circle adjustment . over time circle will get bent and be out of round and you should allow for this when pushing the shoes out find the tight point and adjust or it will bind or if forced will end up stripping the gear in the circle drive. [dont ask how i know this] pinion clearance is important too little causes binding on worn circle teeth and if bad enough can result in pinion shaft breakage. too loose excessive teeth wear from circle flogging on teeth when grading. the poly wear inserts on the 12h and a12m [idone 8000 hrs in it] ihave never lubed the 12m is still on its original top of circle wear pads ,proberly got 70 per cent left in them and on its second lot of shoe inserts. the 12m slide guides i replaced with an oil impregnated poly a local machine shop made up for me the rails are mirror shiney [ top and bottom slide guides are poly] keep things adjusted to save alot of grief .giddyup
should have said in my last post if you have bronze alloy inserts and strips they will need dry lube, i had alot of trouble with the bronze alloy slide guides breaking one batch you could see smalls cracks in them when brand new after that we switched to poly.giddyup
So I think this one ought to work. This is for a 12H but looking at the setup of the circle and circle drive they appear to be the same as the 12G even though the Part Numbers are not 100% identical. A couple of thoughts/suggestions regarding setting the distance between the circle drive pinion and the circle teeth. 1. Inspect the circle teeth for wear. If they are well-worn at the front (normal for a machine with plenty of hours) compared to the rest of the circle you may have to set the clearance at something higher than the top tolerance of distance "X" as stated on Page 6. If you don't do that the pinion may bind up on the (less worn) circle teeth when you angle the circle well away from the 90-degree position called out to do all the adjustments. 2. I've found that cutting up a piece of stiff plastic such as an old debit/credit card and use it to manufacture a go/no go gauge for distance X is quite useful because it's very difficult to get any sort of measuring tool into such a tight spot. When it comes to lubricant for the circle I prefer some sort of dry silicone spray to avoid dirt sticking to the lubricant and producing a grinding paste.