I got a great (my opinion) deal on a 1973 580B. It has a decent cab and does have the Extendahoe (removed for transportation and not in pics). Paid $1000 and it comes with 4 backhoe buckets of various sizes. It has been sitting at a nearby dairy farm parked for about 8 years. Seems there was a slight engine problem. They pulled the pan before they parked it and from what they can tell underneath they thought it was a loose/broken wrist pin. There's other issues - cracked exhaust manifold (already ordered a new one on ebay for $152), several bad hoses, front bucket is completely rusted out, cracked glass, and several more … and more we'll find. I'm retired and enjoy a good project (and also run a small construction/home repair business) and (better yet) my son is a machinist and great mechanic. In addition, next door to my son (where the 580B is stored) is a guy who has a full diesel truck repair shop. Read: I've got some good resources to lean on for this project. I'm planning a pretty full restoration - but not going for complete original. I just want it completely, fully functional and clean. We're stripping it down to it's bones and fixing everything as it goes back together. I'll probably do seals on all the hydraulic cylinders, we'll tear down the engine and rebuild whatever it needs, fully check drivetrain and seals, repaint everything, the works. As you can see in the pics, she's pretty rough. There's three pics of it after arrival and a two pics after today's work of stripping her down. We pulled all the panels off the ROPS since to do a good paint job we'll need to paint under the panels. The ROPS itself was just going to be in the way as we tear into the guts and it's nice to have it separated to, again, do a thorough paint job. As for paint I'm doing power yellow on everything except the cab which I'll do in black. I know its not the original paint scheme but I really like that look. I've already poured over countless posts in this forum (a FANTASTIC resource!) and will likely bug you guys relentlessly as I proceed through this rebuild. This should be a fun, frustrating, knuckle busting ride!!
greg, Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of helpful guys on here, some with professional experience and the rest of us with whatever we bring to the table. All of us have more than a passing interest in these machines and enjoy following along with others projects. Thanks for posting your pictures, it looks like you have the makings of a real nice complete backhoe once you deal with the engine and go through the rest of the stuff. Having access to shop, equipment and experience will make it easy and fun. Cost is another matter but anything worth doing will not always be cheap. We will all look forward to seeing your progress and maybe learn something in the process.
THX Juskatia. I'll probably spend more than I should on it but, starting at $1000 and with clean, well running ones going for $7000+ range I feel I've got room to 'invest' a fair bit. … not that I have any plans to sell it anyway. I've got a couple construction projects planned that this will come in quite handy for (let alone the general around the farm use it will get). One question, has anyone found a good source for the rubber window moulding? I have a couple cracked windows I'll replace eventually and the rest of the windows' moulding is seriously dry/sun rotted. I wouldn't mind replacing all of it in due time. NOTE: this is more a curiosity question as it is rather obvious that I have far more pressing issues to work on this 580 than window moulding!!!
I had a 580B, great machine. Some suggestions: 1) Foam Fill the new front tires, no flats and make it much easier to steer when lifting heavy things with the loader. 2) Replace all the wrist pin bearings, had the same problem. Seemed to be a weak spot on the 580B's. 3) Check the welds on the casting in the top of the boom for cracks, some of the welding was not full penetration. This is where the dipper attaches to the boom. 4) Change the boom to swing tower connection from 2 pins to one pin through both sides, line bore if necessary, makes the boom much less sloppy. Good Luck
Excellent suggestions RB. Thanks. :thumbsup on the foam fill. I may try something like Gempler's first though due to cost. Anyone else have thoughts on foam fill vs Gempler's vs nothing? The farm is loaded with hidden tire 'surprises' from the prior owner storing junk everywhere. Good to know about the wrist pins. I'll get 'em all while I'm in there. My son is an excellent welder - one of his last jobs was opening up and welding some cracks in 4" steel plate. (One of these days I'll put up a post about his work place. It's amazing. They do BIG stuff - cut 23' gears, turn 10,000lbs crankshafts, turn 20'X2' shafts.) He can go after some of those weak spots before we get that new coat of paint down. I appreciate the advice from anyone on what things I can catch while I've got this 580 stripped down. It's part of the huge value of this great forum. THX in advance!
After reading even more posts, it looks like I should clean out the oil suction screen and sump while everything is torn apart. I'll also be doing a brake job (they told me it hasn't had brakes for years). And, I forgot to mention that one of the front spindles needs rebuilding as it sits cockeyed with the bearings obviously crushed/gone. Hope the spindle itself isn't damaged. Yep, I've got a pretty full summertime project on my hands. I've got Dale's number and will be giving him a call as soon as I choose my first couple items to tackle - probably that spindle and a couple of the obviously leaking cylinders. I've already got 6 pages of notes and procedures copied out of this forum to check/do as I proceed. I'm betting that grows as I get deeper into this. I see now how this forum and a 580B easily becomes an obsession!!! I'm hooked!!!
If you decide to get the injection pump redone.. ask your rebuilder to install an EID weight retainer.. The updated weight retainer takes the weak point out of the rebuild.. and you'll never have to worry about it again.. The injectors are cheap enough to replace with new, rather than getting them cleaned and checked.. Keep posting up the pics on your progress.. TPG
Greg Welcome to the site.......I dont see where you can get hurt with this heck if you was to just part it out you would make some $$$$$ .........No doubt you will need to put some $$$$$ back into her but you will know what you have when your done and have a good understanding of what makes it tick.....These are tough old tractors and you will a lot of use from it when your done..... The biggest issue with these ck's and the b's "power shuttle models" is with them moving and even at best they say they are sluggish......So yea cleaning that screen out is the minimum you may want to consider to do to the shuttle .....while you have that pump out you should pull the gear off and check the woodruff key that connects the pump shaft to the gear and there is a way to use air to see if your clutches in the shuttle are getting pressure you may want to read up on how to do that so you can see if they are working or not ........Another thought is .....if you know who last run it if they could tell you how well it moved when it was last running would give you a little more info whether or not you want to consider new seals on the torque converter and shuttle..... Look forward to following your progress on your project and thanks for the pics .....as you move along with this if you need any pics for reference while working on yours just ask some of us must have little libraries of our rebuilds and one of us may have what your looking for .....There are lots on here who will help if they can.......
THX Pumpguy. The injector pump is one of my true unknowns and I appreciate the advice if I get it rebuilt. The clutches were replaced by the prior owner (guy lives just down the road so we know him well) and were done not long before it was parked due to wrist pin. They should be OK. I will check the woodruff key though. I appreciate the advice. Hoping I can get a good day in on it Tuesday. We got snow this morning and it should be 75ish on Tuesday … crazy Missouri weather!
Good half day on the 580B today. Got the loader arms off - along with all the associated hydraulics. Couple stuck pins but for the most part things came apart pretty well. Most pins/bushings were in pretty good shape … except, the bushing above the Hydralift cylinder. That one has a crack in the weld which is leaking hydraulic fluid (from the reservoir) and is painfully 'ovaled' out. See pic. On the bright side, we plan to remove these side rails. That will allow us to take them in to my son's work place where we can sandblast them, weld up the cracks, machine that bad bushing, and paint it up. I'm SO lucky to have a sand blast booth, paint booth, full weld shop, and major machine shop available to work some of these parts. On we go as the 580B gets stripped down!!
Greg ........Jusk will hopefully chime in here about this ......but i know there is something to these cracking because of that little cylinder under that bushing that is actually a load level cylinder and there is something to lifting and tilting at the same time that puts pressure on the loader ......Jusk can explain this way better than i can im sure he will catch this and jump in here..... Your making good progress with your project and yea that machine shop will be priceless for you.....
Yeah xpack. I've read a bunch about that hydra leveling cylinder and the pressure it can put on the arm and frame. Heard a bit about people removing them or disabling them. Mine is missing the connecting rod and some other parts. I heard most have had cracked loader arms but mine seems to have 'broken' this way. I do intend to get the leveling working again as well as the RTD but I'm going to have to find some parts and do some significant linkage repair - much as you did on your rebuild.
Greg ........A great source for parts new and used stuff is Dale out of indiana his website is e-backhoeparts.com and heres his # 765-378-3396 68 on here turned me on to Dale and he is awesome to deal with thats where i got a bunch of stuff for mine and he will ship it to you.....He had a complete used rtd linkage i bought for mine.......
THX xpack. Yeah, Dale is going to be getting a call from me. I'm waiting until I have a full list of items I need though so I've got a bit more teardown to go. I'll be getting those linkage parts as well as needing needle bearings for the front spindles - one side is completely crushed. I'll need some engine parts, a seat, a bunch of cylinder seals, and a used front bucket. That's just what I know right now! It is probably going to be worth it to just drive over and pick up all this stuff, especially if he has a loader bucket for me. I'm feeling the vacuum on my wallet already!!
Greg, those bushings that are welded into the top of the reservoirs can be replaced. Mine were done prior to my getting the machine. I think Tinkerer or Melben have posted about the issues of rolling the loader bucket back and raising it at the same time. With the leveling cylinder, one fights the other and the damage shows up in the tops of the reservoir towers and in broken loader arms, particularly on the right side. This is prevalent on the model 33 loader, and yours may beefier with the model 35? For your front spindles, carefully check the spindle for wear and the end of the axle for wear before you put the new bearings in. If either are out of round, I would suggest that you replace the spindle, as good used are available. For the axle ends, I had mine cut off and new aftermarket ends welded on. New bearings and properly shimmed, its as good as new. These front ends take a beating from heavy loads and need to be greased regularly/ If you lift the front end off the ground, you will be able to see what play there is and deal with it before its too late. One of mine was badly worn but the other spindle was ok and after the rebuild, nice and tight.
I had to go to Dales for my rops and got to see his boneyard and im sure i seen buckets there he is very easy to deal with and has a lot of knowledge on these ck's and b's...I did just what you said and made a big list and he had everything ready when i go there and his prices are very fair ......He definitely treated me very good thats why im not bashfull to recommend him .............
THX Jusk/xpack. I hope to get another day in on the 580B on Friday. I'll mostly be peeling off hydraulic hoses and such. My son's neighbor works at a place that can build hoses. Not free but pretty much at cost - he owes my son for some welding and parts he's machined for him so it's a nice trade deal. All I have to do is provide hoses a couple at a time so he can do them 'off time' and pay parts cost. So far it looks like all hoses except 3 or 4 could stand to be replaced - and I may as well get 'em done while the price is right. My new exhaust manifold arrived today - but it will be awhile before gets installed. I'm already looking at my calendar thinking of when I can plan in a drive to Indiana! Man, this 580B is addictive!! Is "580B restoration" a certified medical disorder??!!:bouncer The wife just might have me committed!!
DALE IS VERY GOOD to do business with..!!
Dam, I wish i had your ambition, I lost the energy for big projects. The good part will be, is how much you will admire it when your finished, Good luck, and I hope it goes well :thumbsup
THX Zig. I really helps to have my son involved. He's a great mechanic - and has a lot more strength for those stuck bolts!! (But don't tell him I said that!) It's a great thing to have a project that we can dig into together. Some of that Dad/Son time that gets hard to come by when we get so busy with work, kids, life, ext. Having a beautiful restored 580B will just be the icing on the cake!
Got a good day in on the 580B. Got the majority of the hydraulics removed and then got both side rails (hyd tanks) off. It's really getting stripped down now! First pic shows what's left of my RTD levers. Missing the rocker arm and the push pin. Second pic shows my Hyd filter gauge - its the round black blob. Need to get a new one but haven't had much success finding one online. Third pic is my growing 'parts lot'. Fourth and fifth pics are the stripped down 580B. Next step will be to split her and get the engine into surgery. The cleaning, fixing, painting is about to begin!
And we would have gotten the fuel tank off but it is completely full (22 gallons) of diesel. …. eight year old diesel! Need to drain that first. Maybe it will make good cleaning fluid or something! Nice that the tank was full so it didn't rust out though.
Greg, You're making great progress and with the loader stripped off, it will be easier to work on the tractor part. I am a bit further along on my project but still have to pull the loader reservoirs off. For me, it takes a bit longer working by myself without any heavy lifting capacity. The diesel tanks last much better than gas and will likely was out clean once you have it drained off. Thanks for posting the pictures.
Yeah Jusk, it has been much easier to break apart with my son's help … and my ASV track loader. Love my ASV. Goes where nothing else can. It's almost essential to have to get some of those 500+ pound parts off. The more we have off the more we are glad we are doing a full strip. Access will be much better and the paint job much more complete. Here's a pic of my little ASV. BTW, I've read the better part of your 68 580CK thread. Great stuff and best of luck on your project too. You certainly have more 'challenges' getting parts, etc than I do.
Greg......This is a awesome thread you got going on here thanks for all the pics to it will help others with there project as well......And your right it is nice to have another piece of equipment for lifting the heavy stuff i used my kubota when i did mine...... Let me know if you find a aftermarket source for that gauge i checked with Dale but it seems like all he could get was a case gauge at $75.00 so i held off on that one for now... Are you just going to pull the engine or are you you going to pull the torque tube to ????
I like the picture with your bleeding knuckle. LOL Shows your going at it full bore! Good luck with the project
Yeah xpack, we're going to pull the engine at bell housing. We know there is a wrist pin issue and - as suggested - we'll replace them all. Then we'll check bearings etc while we have it opened up. We'll go through the drivetrain too but I'm hoping (???!!!) that all is in good shape. Last owner did put in new clutch pack and said it was driving OK. I know the brakes need a total rebuild but we have nice access to them now. We all know those bleeding knuckles are just part of the job. That one came with a broken 7/8 wrench. We've been lucky so far on stuck parts but one loader arm cylinder is giving us trouble. The wrench broke trying to get the hydraulic hose off. The same cylinder has a stuck pin so we haven't gotten it off the arm yet. That whole assembly is headed to my son's workplace though and we'll probably tackle those issues there - with the 'big gun' tools! All in all, other than about 3 bolts we had to torch off and this one cylinder, she has stripped down fairly easily. Another really good sign - when we drained the hydraulic fluid yesterday is was beautifully clean. A little cloud on one plug but the fluid was nice - almost hated getting rid of it!. And xpack - Yeah, a strangely hard to find part for a gauge. I did find others on the web that were similar (red/yellow/green bands) - but I need to find out if the pressure ranges are the same. It'd be nice to have the Case part but I'll take an equivalent if the price is right ($75, ouch!).
Greg.......if you pull the torque tube at the rear end there are shims that are on the main shaft that come out of the rearend and there is a tolerance between the shims and the shuttle you check with feeler gauges it seems like it is 25-45 thousands if you need the exact clearance i can look it up for you .......anyway if you check this clearance before you split it then you will know if you need to add or take away any shims before you put it back together.......When i did mine i didnt check that before i split it and luckly it was good when i went back together or i would have split it again to get it right ........... If you need more info about this just let me know and i will post more about it........ I have a old oil gauge on my hydraulics that came off a old farmall although its not a original i know where it runs...... i would like to get a original for it when the price is right ......
Good to know xpack! Is there another post on taking this measurement? Pics? We'll definitely do this and we are right at the point of splitting the tractor - maybe early this week.
Shuttle greg, here is a scan of the manual page that shows where you want to check. If you have a copy of the Service Manual section 4-S Servicing the Power Shuttle, it contains a lot of detail on how it works, disassembly and inspection, and various adjustments. This page is copied from Section 61 of the Service Manual. I do not have a Sec 64 in my manual that is referenced in the page below. I don't know exactly what the difference is in the documents but both have the information you will want to be familiar with. Section 61 is a 13 page document and 4-S is 24 pages. There is a specific warning to 'Install a wire around the power shuttle assembly to keep it from separating when splitting the tractor.' xpack may be able to comment on that as he has already done his on Marie...
Greg you can see the shims in jusk's post in the pic inset b and in the top pic in jusk,s post shows where you take the measurement with feeler gauges all your checking is the end play... Just pull the top cover for the shuttle and put a prybar at the rear of the shuttle and pry it forward toward the engine and .....then it is tight to get the feeler gauges in there but it is doable.....Put the feeler gauges in between the shuttle itself and the shims (They are at the rear of the shuttle) to see how much end play you have it should be a minimum of .025" to a maximum of .045" if it is not within this tolerance then you want to figure out what you need to add or take away to get it in tolerance and write it down so when you go back together it will be right and you wont need to split it again...... As far as wiring the shuttle together i didnt have any problem with mine falling apart and i didnt wire it together if your carfull removing it in my opinion theres no need to wire it unless your going to store it and you dont want to take a chance of it coming apart....... Another thing you should know is they used 2 brands of shuttles in these one is a rockford shuttle the other one is a twin disc......From what i have read the rockford is easier to rebuild which is what mine is.... but the twin disc brand is harder to rebuild from what i have read with the twin disc it has to be pressed apart and pressed back together ........ Here is a pic of the rear of my shuttle this is where the tranny mainshaft slides into the shuttle and those shims are on the tranny mainshaft... Here is a pic the bottom of the pic is the rear of the shuttle you can imagine the tranny mainshaft being in there with the shims on the shaft between the shuttle and tranny this is where you measure.... Here is a pic of the tranny mainshaft and the shims are behind the ziptie in this pic..... If you need anything else just let us know....
Thanks so much Jusk and xpack!! I found the pages in my service manual - but pics are everything! We'll be into that for sure. Last night and tonight I spent cleaning parts (seat post assembly and the loader hydraulic valve assembly). I think part cleaning will be a large part of my life for the near future! My son was busy this morning too. He got the radiator off (see pic). Taking that in to see what it will take to clean, fix (fan hit the back of the radiator a bit), and repair. Hopefully not too much - we have a deal thru my son's work and we'll see how that plays out. I'll just keep cleaning and priming parts!!
greg, You are making good progress. I see that you have the standard equipment 'grease ball' in the area around the hydraulic pump out front. Cleaning takes some time and effort but eventually, you make some headway. I scraped and poked in between 3 power wash sessions and when I got it apart, there was still some of that black hardened on grease in a few places. A soak in the parts washer overnight and it comes off easy. For some of the worst, I used dollar store oven cleaner on some of the worst spots and it seemed to clear off the greasing residue. T save the rad, I would suggest removal of the fan first. I didn't do this and there were some scrapes on the fins but since I was do a re-core, it didn't matter. You mentioned that you do have the manuals, so that will be a big help. If there is something you can't find or need a page from the Parts Book, let us know. I have them here at the shop for the 580CK
Yeah, the grease ball. This one is mostly made of hyd oil and cow ****! Since this 580 lived on a dairy farm, one of it's main jobs was the constant moving of cow ****. It's everywhere on the machine - 8 yrs old, dried out, and hard as a rock. Unfortunately, it is also rather corrosive when left stuck to metal for long times. The lower ends of the loader arms are badly pitted. We've discussed plating some of it but will probably wait until we actually get a crack or something (we've got enough on our hands right now). Some of the pitting is so bad (like on the loader cross bar - pits you can put the pad of your little finger in) I'll throw a little bondo in to smooth it out as we paint. However, on the brighter side, as I clean some of these smaller parts back at home in the garage, it smells just like a farm - that distinct smell of diesel and cow ****!!
Greg, That's pretty funny and no pun intended, right? - (we've got enough on our hands right now) The worst is almost over and she'll be looking good soon.
Well, work has slowed down just a bit. I'm cleaning parts. You guys should have told me I need to take stock out in degreaser and nitril glove companies!! I've come to realize that you either commit to clean a part all the way down or just give it a surface cleaning. As much as possible I'm going to try to take every part down as much as possible. I don't really want a paint job that is just a 'hot water pressure wash and shoot it' job. That really means some of these parts are going to take me a while to break down, clean thoroughly, properly prep, and paint. It's just a matter of time and elbow grease, right??!! One thing for sure, I'm headed to Harbor Freight and getting a decent parts washer. That'll save me loads of time/energy. Here's a pic of my seat pedestal. It's getting closer to clean enough to degrease and prime. There was serious rust between the base and the spring base. Inside the post there was tons of rather dirty grease on the spring, pin, etc - but that did keep the internals in nice shape. On the bright side, my pin and the seat adjusting post are in great shape - not the groove wear you often see. The pin holes are a little ovaled out but not enough to even worry about.
Greg .........Welcome to the oil bath brotherhood............It is amazing what 40 years will do to old oil/grease .......you are stripping her right down to the bare bones she will look great when your done......and just a little tip when you put the seat post back together i wouldnt grease it just squirt some heavy oil on it now and then with the grease when it gets cold it is a pita to lift it .............
For the rubber trim around the windows I was only able to find one manufacture: http://www.trimlok.com/ The best cost I could find was from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#bulb-seals/=q5krcs This is what I bought for my skip loader, its not cheap.
I just went down to the local glass shop and told them what I needed and they fixed me up on the cheap with some pieces they had laying around. Might be worth a try. Cab metal thickness and glass thickness is all they asked me. I think it was like $20 for enough to do the windshield and 2 side windows.
Zoro.com has Trim Lok locking gasket for about $2 a foot (seal and the locking strip). That's about the best I've found. Pretty close to McMaster Carr price for a similar seal as Sportsman found. I'll have to try a couple glass shops too - that was a great deal Grady!
Found a variety of Trim Lok gasket on Amazon. About $1.50 a foot if you get 100'. http://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Rubb...RID=8SPSVHBXJ5G19GRY0Q5N&ref_=pd_lutyp_im_1_3
Got a bit more done over the weekend. Finished cleaning and painted my first part - the loader control valve. Turned out nice. (before and then after pics) Then I got into the instrument panel. What a mess! First to get thru the muddobber's (wasps) nests a well as more cow **** and hay. Then the rat's nest of wiring. Lots of "modifications" have been done to those wires over the years. Quite a mess. As I'm not interested in an 'original' restoration, I've decided to just replace all the gauges - most were broken already or so rusted that they broke upon removal. They aren't that expensive and it would take way too much of my time to try to fix/clean them up (although I enjoyed reading and learning from Papa Goose's thread on gauge restoration!!). I would like to add an oil pressure gauge. Can anybody point me to a thread that gives good info on doing that with a 188 diesel? I'd like to go with a wired sensor rather than tube sensor. As always, any advice appreciated!!
Greg............Do what you can to save the tach,fuel,and the shuttle/clutch pressure oil gauges these can get a little $$$$ and the fuel gauge has to match the sendng unit or it wont work.........Mine has the tube sensor for the oil gauge and it hooks up by the fuel filters on the block i also installed a converter oil temp gauge instead of the original temp sensor with the dummy light......I went to advanced auto and bought the water temp gauge and the temp gauge for the converter oil (same gauges) .........
I've been a bit busy lately and not doing much on this project. Actually sidetracked building a dump trailer using my old 1969 F600 dump bed and hyd lift. I need it for a work job that's coming up - can save a bunch of money if I don't have to rent one. Here's a pic . I have gotten some stuff for my Instrument panel rebuild. My gauges were in really rough shape. Amp meter was replacement anyway, fuel gauge was hopelessly broken, and tach was full of water and frozen up. I found these Case knock-offs on Ebay and decided to give them a shot. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Case-Tracto...663958?hash=item3ac0e9ff96:g:qTUAAOSwGotWsIGP I'll see how well they work. They look pretty nice and at $40.00 for the set I can hardly go wrong. I'll let you know how they work in form/fit with everything else.
LOOOONG time since I've posted! Just been too busy to work on my 580B and had to move all the pieces of it to a different farm - a royal pain to say the least. I have gotten a bit further on the instrument panel. Everything is mounted and it just needs a bit of wiring up in back. Looks good anyway! I've added a bunch of extra light switches and used a double throw switch for the turn signal switch. Even got a horn button (down by the starter switch)!! Unit below the panel is a fuse/hook-up block for a car. I'll be using it to simplify the connections and give me better fusing.
Really nice setup!! What do u have add for all lights or can u just wire them straight? And double throw switch? Never seen one setup like that but would love have it on mine...
I have a 580bck i had to rewire it. The key was removed in the past so i eliminated the idiot lights . I hooked up a lube oil pressure swith so when u get oil pressure it closes a relay sending voltage to my gauges. So my voltmeter will not drain my battery . Got idea from offshore supply boat engines. So im keyless
I rebuilt almost 90 percent of my hydraulic cyliders from watching you tube videos on it.ive replaced almost 80 percent of my hoses.