Greetings and thank you in advance for your interest! 416c backhoe issue with front bucket curling issue. It started feeling rough, the input lever that is, and got worse over a short time and led to the front bucket not curling. I noted that there was more and more resistance in the lever over time as well. It has no problem with the other three functions, plenty of power, no external leaks. I am heading out to the shop to remove and inspect the resolver for that circuit. All other hydraulic driven circuits work as expected. What concerns me is that a bad resolver doesn’t seem like it would cause the grinding feeling in that input. It felt as though the linkage got corroded which of course it didn’t. Happy to entertain any thoughts.
You can check resolvers by moving spool ahead of valve section you are having trouble with it should make bad section come a live
My experience is highway vehicles and hydraulics in old school carwashes. At this point I don’t know how to move the spool, where to do so. On inspection I also don’t see the 5mm allen head “bolt” that I expected to find at the bottom of the control unit. I do have a service manual from Caterpillar and a couple parts manuals but my past experience is that neither will give much detail, only an overall step by step? I will dig the service manual out and see if this is covered in it. I understand that the manual I have is one of two so I may be lacking the information on this.
There should be a resolver check chart in service manual
Okay, found the resolvers and see I need to remove a few parts to get the resolvers out. Digging out the manual before I start doing anything else.
Okay, shop manual missing. Operation and maintenance manual is of no help. Now going to see what I can find searching the forums for clarity on resolver check charts.
Any thoughts on the ebay offers of digital service/repair manuals? Generally around $60 and I have doubts.
I don’t know much about online manuals I think I would try your cat dealer as for technical and see if they would send you resolver chart
@Quazimoto - If you would like to post your Serial Number I can look something up. The 416C comes in a variety of different flavours.
Hi, thank you for your help and your support in the forum overall! The serial # is 4ZN2457S
See where the attached gets you. To the best of my recollection all the shuttle/resolver valves along with their seals are the same Part Numbers irrespective of which valve section in which they are installed.
Thank you, it will be a couple days as the weather has taken a turn here.
I was just looking at your origanal post you said it was taking more pressure on the leaver Does this machine have a mechanical bucket leveler? If it does I would be checking for bent or worn parts
The lever moves easily after the failure of the loader to curl. And I did inspect the linkage and there is nothing bent or damaged. At least nothing external… but I will double check.
Check your cylinder barrels as well for dings. I've seen that where it galls the gland and inside of the barrel. Bent rods can cause binding as well.
If you look in the frame of the wheel we'll there are three or four holes there that go to the part of the resolver circuit that are on the loader valve they are a pain in the ass if they are stuck On the bottom of the loader valve is the spool caps if you pull the caps you get to the resolver flutes typically the o ring needs changed the spool with the magnet is the curl spool All in it's a 30 minute job if nothings rusted or siezed
I fail to see how the LS network should affect feeling in the control lever. Last time I had to fix issue like that - the whole top of the control valve was packet with compacted mud, one of the levers wouldn’t even come back on centering spring force. Keep or simple boys!!! First thing check your linkages or cables.
I gave you a like because I was thinking the same thing but possibly better awake then you at 4:30 am. I hope you meant KISS. Hopefully, because simple boys may attract unwanted attention. lol
That’s exactly what I meant, just the last “S” in “KISS” - wouldn’t be too polite!
As mentioned above. Hard to move lever is usually a problem with the bucket levelling system.
Usually it’s not grinding, and you can feel it pushing on your hand, when boom is coming down.
Pull the pins on linkage and see if it gets better might want to remove rod so it doesn’t go thru windshield
Even checking for packed mud would get somewhere. I’ve seen all kids of stuff on those things. They can drown the darn junk in the swamp, couldn’t recover for a few weeks, after yanking it out of the bog - mud is packed on top of the transmission solid! And “let’s replace every freaking seal in this POJ, wire wheel and polish every damned shaft and rod” program - begins!!! Been there - done that!
When I bought my 3010D Kubota, the guy I bought it from had tried bush hogging a swamp, trying to dry up some of his land. He had dropped the tractor and bush hog through the ice and it was through about 3 1/2 feet. Water was only a couple of feet deep. Ice was pretty thick but the swamp gases had thinned the ice around the saplings and tall grass clumps. So being a good neighbor, my father and brother and I, spent 2 days getting it up and out of that swamp. We disconnected the quick attach front bucket and slid that over the top of the tractor and bush hog. I used my 416 with the front chained to a huge pine and used about 150’ of chain and the backhoe. We used a 4 wheeler cause the chain was so heavy and a whole bunch of rough cut oak. Took it outta that swamp 4’ at a time. We got done, by that time everything, even the hydrostatic drive were frozen up. The neighbors wife demanded he sell it, as he was going to kill himself with it. We got a good deal but it was Hell, changing all the oils and a few seals. Everything in it was a milkshake , after thawing it out for a few days. I had to weld the 3 point linkage together on the bush hog, as I had cut it all apart to get it up and out of the ice.
Finally back dealing with this after a total knee replacement. Today I took a deep look with an assistant moving the control stick while I could watch what did what from under the control lever. It took a while of cleaning and oiling but eventually I realized there is a bent rod that is stopping the lever from actuating the curl circuit. The grinding noise was from the spring loaded cylinder that connects to the curl/dump function of the hydraulic control unit. Thank you again to everyone for your input!
Here is a photo of the rod. Got it straightened out but bent hydraulic lines are the issue. I will consider how I am going to get them back to about the correct place so I can put the rod back on later. How did this travesty come about? Getting buried to the frame in a bog. Well clearly way above the frame to have done this. Long story involving a lot of rain during that time and a overflowing pond onto an area that I had driven across many times before.
For those seeking a solution, I spent a couple of days on this and it turns out the curl up function was prevented due to a mechanical auto level linkage. After freeing it up and disconnecting the auto level linkage the bucket controls operate freely and it works like a new one! Just need to remember no auto level but I’m not sure it ever worked. Thanks to this group I have used you on many occasions for solutions, much appreciated!
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