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Grove RT60S drives, then does not, then drives again

ichudov · 2018-10-26 10:51

I have a problem with my Grove RT-60S. The problem is that when I want to drive it, it drives only intermittently. Like, say, I start it, put it in drive, drive 50 yards, then it just stops. I play with the forward, reverse, speed, after a while it starts driving again. Playing with fwd/rev does not seem to help much, sometimes the crane simply refuses to drive, I keep pushing gas for 2 minutes, then starts driving again and when it happens I cannot tell the reason. Any idea what this could be? It seems to happen more in cold weather but may not be related.

Replies23
  1. #1Junkyard2018-10-26 11:02

    Assuming fluid levels and filters are good I’m going to guess it’s something electrical. Not sure how it’s setup but it could be contacts in the lever, swivel or something on the trans line a solenoid. I haven’t done much with them so it’s a SWAG as this point lol

  2. #2InsleyGuy2018-10-26 21:30

    Don't scrap the Link-Belt yet.

  3. #3ichudov2018-10-26 21:34

    Already in process...

  4. #4ichudov2018-10-27 08:43

    OK, does anyone know how the control system for transmission works. I know that in the cab, the control levers for FWD/REV as well as for gear selection 1-2-3 are operating some sort of spool valve. Is that pneumatic or hydraulic? How does the transmission get actuated? Thanks, guys, you are awesome! I have a demo job coming up and am slightly freaking out.

  5. #5crane operator2018-10-27 17:10

    I've never worked on a transmission in one that is the age of yours. Didn't you fix the swivel in that? If it was air actuated you would have to have a bunch of different air ports, (F,N,R, 123, 4x4). I don't think there are that many different air ports. The newer ones are all electric. You could certainly crawl underneath and look at the transmission, and see what is controlling it. Air cylinder, hyd. cylinder or ports, or electric. If you can see what is controlling it, then you can trouble shoot it. Get it to where it won't go, then go underneath and manually jumper it, air/electric, etc. and if it starts to move, the problem is upstairs/swivel. If it doesn't make any difference, its trans/ torque converter.

  6. #6ichudov2018-10-27 17:22

    OK, thank you. I will definitely look, keeping safety in mind as someone is under a crane that might start driving at any moment from testing itself. Maybe I will jack it and put on big wood blocks. Does the trans work from hydraulic oil? Is that right that the onli oil in this crane is 1) engine oil and 2) hydraulic oil. Or is there any other oil? Does the hydraulic oil need to have transmission friction modifiers? Yes, I fixed the crane swivel. The 4x4 is simple and controlled by electrics. FNR is controlled by air or hydraulic, and so is 123.

  7. #7crane operator2018-10-27 17:31

    I was thinking about your issues, and remembered knepptune talking about this. The fiber gear he is replacing is between the trans and engine, but I don't know if yours has this fiber gear. Do you lose anything else- hyd, power steering, rear steer , crane functions etc. when it won't drive? And yes, I would test it up on jacks to see what's going on. I'm sorry I didn't say that, I kind of assumed, and you know what that causes, sorry.

  8. #8ichudov2018-10-27 17:57

    I do not think that I lose any other function when I lose "drive". I can steer with all wheels, for example. The "drive", also, I either have or I do not have at all, it does not seem to be "weak", just "comes and goes".

  9. #9Junkyard2018-10-27 18:17

    If it just come and goes without any slipping or anything else then I’m guessing it’s a control issue. Get under there and see how it works.

  10. #10sled dog2018-10-27 18:36

    Sounds like the torque is starving for oil. I know that if I get on a steep enough slope, the 7F I run will go and stop and go again.

  11. #11ichudov2018-10-27 19:36

    OK, this is along of what I was thinking! Does it use the same hydraulic oil as the rest of the crane? Do I need to use hydraulic oil that is designed to be used in transmissions (like TO-4 oil)?

  12. #12Knepptune2018-10-28 14:20

    Automatic transmission fluid. Your transmission doesn't have enough. Check it with the crane in neutral at idle. if it shows full go ahead and add another quart. Those pickup tubes can have pin holes causing it to run outta fluid sooner. An extra two quarts wont hurt anything. The controls are hydraulic. It sends transmission fluid through the swivel to the valve beside the seat. It's the top barrel on the swivel. The smaller one. Your air and transmission controls run through that one. The bigger one on the bottom is your hydraulics. But your crane is low on transmission fluid.

  13. #13ichudov2018-10-28 15:15

    Thank you! Do you know where is the tank for trans fluid??? I could not find it.

  14. #14Knepptune2018-10-28 15:35

    Bottom of transmission. On the front It should have a pipe that comes out and elbows straight up. Just from memory about 8-10" long. Dipstick is on the cap.

  15. #15ichudov2018-10-28 15:37

    thank you! You are an amazing human being!

  16. #16Knepptune2018-10-28 15:48

    Will you let my wife know. She has a different opinion of me.

  17. #17ichudov2018-10-29 14:30

    Knepptune, you are a SUPER GENIUS and someone to be listened to VERY attentively! I would be glad to relay this opinion to your wife as well! Adding trans fluid solved the problem, it seems. I am very happy right now! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

  18. #18HATCHEQUIP2019-02-18 20:00

    I'm sure after all this time you got it going but that trans has also got a strainer in the bottem of trans case. Looks like a big hex plug like you might find in a barrel top.

  19. #19tractormech2019-02-18 21:12

    glad you had someone ahead of me tell you what to do....I was reading your post and had the exact same thing happening....it would move and stop-let it sit and do it all over again.we jacked it upon outriggers and tested pressures and the owner and I checked oil level 20 times during all this and it read full.We thought the charging pump was losing prime because you could break the outlet line and it would spray air and then catch fluid and take off. puled pan to check screen and it was clean. replaced charging pump and problem remained. cranked it back up and it went in gear so jumped out and pulled dipstick for giggles and all of a sudden it showed nothing on stick. Added 3 gallons of oil and off it went. I felt like 14 carat stupid. Needless to say I have a good used pump for a Clark 3400 series now. The owner who was checking it too couldn't believe it either....but seeing was believing. Glad you figured it out.

  20. #20tractormech2019-02-18 21:16

    Ichudov-I have an old Grove book with all the hydraulic schematics if you need help with anything. I had two old RT63S machines I kept up and I believe the 60 is in there too.

  21. #21tractormech2019-02-18 21:21

    There is a suction hose from the bevel gear housing to the converter that may be collapsed or has a flap inside sucking shut...the belly pan has to be dropped for access

  22. #22ichudov2019-02-18 21:33

    The problem, I think, was lack of oil, we added trans oil and it seems to be okay for now. That was the right suggestion! Thanks to all!!!

  23. #23tractormech2019-02-18 21:41

    Sorry- I was replying to the guy with the D7 issue...I see you got it going