Engine blown in this New Holland L-150 skid steer sold by the implement dealer new in the early 2000's. They told me to "pick it up", so that's exactly what I did to remove it from the trailer: I then drove out from underneath the loader. Lots easier than dragging it off and around with another tractor or the forklift.
Seems we need to do this quite a bit. Folks bring em in dead, lift it off and drive away. Some day would like to have large forklift tho so wouldn't have to back into the shop (then drag it out to wait its turn)
Some hydrostatic transmissions have buttons on them you can push that let the motors freewheel. It's too bad they all didn't. Would make it so much easier if you had to move a machine inside or onto a trailer. When I lost all the hyd. fluid in my skid steer, because the inexperienced apprentice mechanic didn't tighten the filter properly after replacing a wheel motor, I was fortunate I had the track loader with a backhoe. I was able to put the back end of the machine in the bucket. I couldn't lift the skid steer completely off the ground because it stuck out too far but I was able to get the wheels off the ground enough and dragged it backwards on the bucket. I thought a hose blew and replaced it anyway because the fitting by the filter was rusty but just by chance I grabbed the filter and could turn it by hand. I wasn't happy. I had to pay to replace the hyd. oil that I just paid the dealer for. It had less than 2 hours on it. The idiot also ground the screws that held the heater in flush. I deliberately put larger screws in that needed an impact driver to loosen because the old ones always loosened. I only discovered this after unloading the skid steer and driving a 100ft. He never tightened the drive chain and it was slopping around so bad you could clearly hear it. The heater needs to be moved to get at the chain adjuster. I had to take the front panel the heater was attached to off and twist the heater hoses so I could get at the chain adjuster. I later drilled the screws out and replaced them with self tapping screws but what a PIA. Will never go back there for anything. The guy told me about $500.00 labour to R&R the drive motor but when I picked it up it was $1200.00 labour! The guy said well... sometimes it takes a little longer. Almost 3 times longer and you don't inform the customer?? Horrible horrible customer service and obviously no quality control checks on the service work. Thankfully the wheel motor appears to have been installed correctly. It's not good when your lead mechanic doesn't have enough experience or even knows to double check everything before returning it to the customer. They said they test drove it. BS! The drive chain was so loose you could hear it loud and clear as soon as you went full speed which takes about 30ft.
Everyone should have a small forklift. I'd may as well be naked if I didn't have the old hyster. Thats a d5g we put together a few years back
Guessing the scrap yard didn't have a big enough forklift to unload it at the scales? JK...
Looks like a nice big shop. Must be nice to work in.
That is unfortunately where it will probably end up. A plethora of operators over the years used in a hog processing/producing operation. It is very rough so really not worth repairing. No easy dump valve for the hydrostats with these, only brute force to load one dead. This one is knocking badly in the engine but hasn't come apart yet. I dragged it with the winch up onto the rear of the trailer and then chained it securely driving to the implement dealer where grabbed the lift truck. This was so much easier than any other so I just set the skid steer against the rear fence of the property till disposition is figured out.
I don't know about all skid loaders, but my JD 240 has spring applied hyd release brakes. So no freewheel valve.
I think these do also. The electric solenoid valve opened when pushing the parking brake release, but with no hydraulic pressure yielded nothing.
Some have a port you can connect a porta - power to and apply some pressure to release the parking brakes. Of course, a monster forklift solves the problem nicely too
Boy you'd need to be careful there and just barely release the brakes unless there is a relief valve built into the system. Most porta power sets are 10ksi and will easily blow seals designed for less. If a guy were easy on the handle he could tell when the brakes had released, but most, well pump till something moves, or explodes.
Well I wouldn’t keep pumping until I got red in the face
Just slide it along, the tires are made to .....wait for it ....."Skid". Yes, I know it's a odd concept....
They don't "drag" any kind of easy in any direction on concrete. Not really too bad on gravel, but are quite difficult on turf, or hard ground. I have a 15K electric winch and it gets a workout sometimes. Winches on my trucks are quite a bit larger but mechanically driven.
The winches on your trucks are rated for for what they say, I'd bet you a dollar the electric which is rated for dragging a 15k pickup in the mud, not a 15k dead pull
Can't say for certain but I know it will pull 10K dead pull as I used my dynomometer in line with it once and brought the tension to the 10K limit of the meter. I want to say that was on the 2nd layer wrap of the drum. Winch was new at the time and is a "Smittybilt" XR something series.
Project farm did a test of the 12k ones and they all pulled around 9-10k, I was surprised they could pull that much honestly. Mine will pull 4k vertically, I think I'm losing a lot with china sheaves though.
Max. pull is with a bare drum and it goes down with more wraps of cable around the drum. Ratings might just be on the drum without any cable, based on motor torque or drum torque.
Tulsa Winch Group In Jenks, OK taught us five wraps of first cable layer on the drum. I think it's the same regardless of drive for the winch itself. IIRC both Ramsey, and Braden used the same standard on their cable winches also. The winch on my white Mack R model is a Tulsa "80" and is rated at 100K line pull. Whether it will actually do that or not I can't say for certain but that tractor has needed tied to an immovable object several times to not overcome the effort of locked brakes and scotch blocks. I've not really been around too many electric winches. Usually smaller ones in the 2K-5K line pull ratings only for car hauler use. I have a Harbor Freight 12K and it does fine but not near enough gear reduction to make it really useful as far too fast in spooling the cable up onto the drum. A 1/2" 5 ton McKissick snatch block is usually used with this to counter the speed. It does pull quite hard however. Prior to having my dozer I used it quite often skidding logs behind my Durango at the time on our property. I really didn't have a use for it so mounted to a piece of 5/8" plate and welded this to a 2" square tube to slip into the receiver of either my truck, or the Durango. I just power it will jumper cables and built up a remote operator from Amazon which works well up to a couple hundred feet distant: Almost too heavy to handle by oneself but I manage somehow; sometimes with a floor jack.
The five wraps holds the rope onto the drum, it will pull off without it. Real winches are rated in pull. Electric winches are handy but rated for vehicle weight, not pull.
You can't find the hood off a car ?
They work well if you can get the implement onto the hood itself. I've skidded a lot of things on skids, runners built from timbers, or steel tube, or even plate steel over the years. I carry no tools on the truck; not even a jack. Other than a winch bar for binders and straps, nada. Not set up for any kind of long distance at all, or anything other than hauling.