HELLLPPPPP !!!!!!!!!!!!!! i have a similar problem . But i cant post as yet I am having a few problems with my 1999 komatsu pc220-lc6. i had a guy work on it and he messed up everything. i am now trying to troubleshoot and solve my problems . 1. today the machine decided not to respond to throttle inputs but revved fine manually when we go and push the throttle by the injector pump. it worked fine up to this morning .. we checked the throttle switch and it seemed to be working fine . we checked for continuity on it.. also i believe associated with this problem the machine wont shut off with the key and we would have to stall it . only started happening today .. could this be some sort of sensor on the pump / main valve system ? 2. the machine tracks very slow and weak unless i try to open the bucket which would be moving the right lever to the right position .. it just barely needs to be engaged to make the tracks move faster but it works and it makes a significant difference . 3. if you could give me some wiring and hydraulic diagrams of the machine that would be very good so i could trace all of my lines and make sure they are in the correct position since my ex- mechanic messed up all of our lines.. 4. the machine gives off a error code E-02 .. i would go and verify this code in the morning ... i could also get more details about my machine like s/n if yall need it ! thanks a mill
Welcome to the forum Jon_one. :usa I moved your post to it's own thread hoping it will produce some response specific to your machine.
You have a short in the wiring or a diode is blown. You should also check all the fuses. There are two that supply the engine control processor. The EO2 code is the notice to the operator that there is an electronic problem in the throttle control circuit. One thing you shouldn't do is manually move the throttle control lever at the fuel pump. It turns the motor into a generator and can blow a diode or damage the processor. I'm going to be gone this weekend but if you PM me I can email you the procedure for getting into the codes and a list of what the codes are.
Hey man thanks a lot !
Ok so I got the codes . What I need now is a wiring diagram .. Some of my wiring was messed up and I want to run new wires properly . I would post errors just now . It was jus basically a few disconnects and a short .
1:01 abnormality in error display . Reset system 1:02 error in clock . Reset system E2:22 short circuit in LS control EPC solenoisd system posted from mobile phone .. Made a error don't know how to delete .
1:01 abnormality in error display . Reset system 1:02 error in clock . Reset system E2:22 short circuit in LS control EPC solenoid system E2:28 abnormality in auto deceleration output system E2:33 disconnection in front pump TVC solenoid system E2:37 disconnection in rear pump TVC solenoid system E2:18 network response overtime error 2:13 disconnection in swing brake solenoid .
ok so the throttle problem ended up being a faulty ignition switch :s but in still have those issues ^ anyone could shed some light on them ?? i see three sensors by my hydraulic pump and this guy that had my machine a few months ago messed up my wiring .. i would post pics of each sensor i am seeing .. one has a bunch of hoses connected to it and is on the side witth the hydraulic tank.. the other two are on the pump itself ...
http://runtime.komatsulearning.com/lms/demo/resize/documents/TuneUp_LABS_Archives/HE_TuneUP_Book.PDF LOOK what i found
Now that you have all those codes written down, you need to clear them out of the computer. Do this by holding the button on the back of the panel with the key on, then turn off the key still holding the button and count to ten slowly. Let go of the button and count to ten again. Now push the button again and turn on the key. Count to ten slowly and then proceed to checking for codes again. If they all clear and you still have the problems, you will need to check hashed wiring and blown diodes. The diodes are behind the operator and under the console pieces in the left rear corner of the cab. They are taped directly to the wiring harness. Give me the serial number of your machine and I'll see if I have a book with the schematics. Nice score on the tune up book. I've never seen it before and it is quite a find.
ok so i just followed your reset procedure and code 2:22 remained and now a new one popped up but i was expecting it 2:27 Abnormality in engine speed sensor system .. because in monitor mode i didn't see any engine rpm's... so that is just two problems now ! ... where is the engine speed sensor located ? and which sensor exactly is the LS control EPC solenoid ? i would look in the tune up book to check .. but still let me know, i checked for continuity in my solenoids and all three seemed to be good .. i guess its the wiring .. i think this solenoid is the one off the pump because i was just checking to see which was getting voltage etc.. and that particular one wasn't receiving any voltage . but the machine was just on ACC and not actually on so i thought that was why i know the other two for sure come on before the machine starts so it would not start under load ..
ok i would get serial number tomorrow i forgot about that just now .. and as for my remainder of problems .. some guy made us change our hydraulic pump because we had some problems with the machine a few years ago ... and apparantly nothing was wrong with the pump .. (not much people know about komatsu in my country) he checked pressure's and got 750 psi .. later on we found out that the stupid man checked the pilot pressure :S and not the main pump.... so now we have a poor installation .. pump and valve body isn't tuned .. tracking is not strong or fast unless you close the bucket while tracking ... the engine would rev up for everything else but turning the turn table .. so we often have to use another control to keep the revs up to move the turntable... and the boom retracts slowly .. and the arm raises slowly .. so tomorrow i am going to tune up my pumps as directed in the tune up book and see if that helps .. i am trying to get some gauges .. what size is the access holes on the pump for the gauges ? i was thinking its a standard size ...
can anyone understand page 31 on that link i posted with the tune up book ?? it just so happens to be my valve body ...........
You need to check the position of the bypass switches. They are in with the fuse box. I believe they are supposed to be in the up position but it has been awhile. They control the swing brake solenoid and the pump bypass. Shift them to opposite of what they are now and see if the codes go away. As I recall the EPC solenoid is on the stack with the other solenoids but I'm not sure. What it does is turns the pumps on stroke real fast when you operate a function. As to tuning the pump, you need to solve all the code problems before trying to adjust the pumps.
yes up position is correct... well its just one sensor i need to fix .. i guess i would have to trace the wires and test for voltage .. it may have come out where they joined it ...
i was wrong ! down is off !! my LS control epc valve seems to be faulty !
Ok ! So it ended up being corroded terminals on my pump controller ! Now I am getting correct resistance to my solenoids ! I just have to tune my pumps now !
ok so this is my ls relief valve right ? it was suggested to me by John.C that it may be bad but it seems to me that it is badly adjusted .. but i do have another ls relief valve lying around from an old main valve ..
Just a recap of my problems, tracking is sort of weak unless i operate the close bucket function .. just enough to barely move bucket .. boom raise is slow .. arm is slow .. boom raise and arm in together is even worse ! bucket close is acceptable but needs a little work still . swing is fast sometimes . other times it is acceptable when it slows down a bit and i operate something else (bucket) while swing is operated it would speed back up ... arm out spikes from fast to acceptable momentarily ... like if i go from fully closed to open , during opening it would "spike" and you would hear and feel the increase in pressure .. machine monitor blinks telling me my ppc pressure is low ... would check that this week...
Test
Have you pulled the suction strainer out of the tank and seen if you have any brass or steel in there?
Yupp i have . no metallics found in any of the filters or strainers .... but remember we changed pumps and the problem persisted .. and the pump does give me steady pressure readings @ times.. and also since i started this i did have some improvements with respect to tracking (before i could barely track properly on an unlevel surface , now it tracks over anything) and equipment speed improved a bit but what i did notice is that the hydraulic fluid gets hot quickly , which suggests that there is a restriction somewhere .. when i touch the cylinder for the boom it was extraordinarily hot ... and when i opened the hydraulic tank to check the filters the fluid did smell a bit burnt , but it is due for an oil change . long over due , and my return filter and suction strainer were basically clogged ... currently sourcing filters etc. but the machine has been operating like this for quite a while more than four years since we changed the pump , before that would've been about 5-6 years .. so i think if it were a bad pump it would've given up by now.
and also while tracking i would get a substantial amount of power but if i operate the bucket close function i get what i think is 100 percent tracking power .. also today i engaged swing lock and measured my pressures both left and right and i got a steady 320kg/cm2 or 4544psi ..
The heating problem is likely caused by a plugged cooler. As I recall the return oil goes through the cooler first and then to the return filters. If the filters were plugged, then so is the cooler. If you have an infrared thermometer you can check the differential temperature between the in and out of the cooler. You should see somewhere around 15 degrees F in drop. I also recall that there is a valve that directs flow through the cooler up to some point of back pressure and then lets the excess go directly to the return filters. When you replaced the pumps, did you pull the cooler and have it cleaned? As to your travel pressures they are supposed to be higher than the implement pressures. Basically the cutouts are cancelled and your pressure at that point is the main relief valve setting. I used to set the mains at 5,000 PSI and run the LS set pressure at 4550 PSI.
nope we didnt have the cooler cleaned . well today i would check out the cooler . suppose to collect gauges today or tomorrow . so i would check and set pressures as necessary .. i think the ls differential pressure is badly off ...
hello John C , could my problem be related to a weak engine ? could the computer be destroking the pump to compensate for power loss ?? my engine does make what i would describe as a hunting noise at times mostly over half rev while working but it disappears on its own at times .. and we do have a problem where we lose fuel pressure at times and the engine will rev very low no matter how high we set the throttle and it will try to pick up and idle rough etc till it eventually cuts off and we would have to prime up the fuel and take some air out of the fuel filter... and also my rpm sensor is not working ... i am currently changing oil and filters on this machine as it is due for service ... since my last post i have not been able to do much work on the machine but what i do notice is that during the operations with a heavier demand "boom raise , arm out / in, steering and sometimes swing " i would get less power at times and the engine would make a slight dip and i would get power ... and also while doing alot of work with machine it will hunt ... i forgot to mention when i operate both arm and boom at the sametime the both will slow down drastically ... so now i am thinking that the engine just simply doesn't have enough power :s hydraulic machines are very complicated . so many variables .. i haven't changed the ls relief valve cartridge as yet but i will do so when the oil has been changed . and no i still haven't found any metallics in my filters ..
Sounds like you have a real mess. The speed sensor not working is a big problem. It it doesn't work the computer works at a different operating level which is not interactive. That means the engine only gets loaded to about two thirds of its actual horsepower output. Speed sensors usually go bad because the bell housing fills up with oil and gets hot enough to burn out the speed sensor. Drain the bell housing oil. A bell housing full of oil will eat up lots of horsepower and fuel. I've seen many of them hot enough that they turned the paint black. There is a plug on the bottom and a level plug on the face of the housing underneath the pump. Fuel supply problems were common on those machines. There is a sediment drain valve on the fuel tank. Most of the time when you open the valve nothing will come out. I used to take a welding rod, strip the flux off it and run it up the valve to break up the crud and get it draining. Next there is a small strainer in the banjo bolt that connects the fuel line to the fuel transfer pump. In that model of machine they were made of plastic. Clean that out. I also used to take the cap off the fuel tank and blow air back through the lines to make sure they were open. It is pretty common also to have suction leaks in the fuel system. There are face seal washers on every banjo bolt. I used to buy brass washers at the local NAPA store and when I took one of those rubber ones out for any reason, I put a brass one back in. Once you get all that done the hunting should go away. If it doesn't, you probably have a worn out fuel injection pump and governor. I've found that you can probably get an exchange from the dealer or find a repair place you trust to fix that. Good Luck!
Sir John C ! once again you are right ! the paint around that area is black ! and the engine speed sensor definitely melt away due to excessive heat .. as you said drain the oil .. do i drain all of the oil out ?? or do i just crack the level plug and let it drain out till its level ? i am not sure if it is suppose to have oil there... with respect to the fuel supply problem . i did indeed use a stripped welding rod to clear sediment from tank drain a few weeks ago it worked like a charm .. there was rell rubbish in there ... we changed the primer pump recently thinking that that maybe the problem ... we also changed fuel filters... now that i do think about it on the mount that the fuel filter mounts to there is a bleed hole with a bolt in it ... the threads got worn out a longtime ago and we didnt fix it yet .. so they attempted to clog the hole w a screw and some sort of crazy idea with cloth ... well that didnt work so i assume its sucking air from there .... when i removed the fuel filter after the machine shut down once it was half filled with air...
Usually when the bell housing gets that hot it is because the rear main seal on the engine leaked. The heat will also cook out the front seal on the pump. You have to pull the pump to fix both those problems. What I used to do for a short term fix is pull the bottom plug and drain all the oil oil. I'd leave that plug out until I got a time I could shut the machine down. I put a pan or some diapers down to catch the oil. The oil will be very black and stinky. Putting new oil in will help clean the inside of the housing and maybe be easier to clean when you do pull it apart. I have also seen where the level never came back up again. Good Luck!
ok so i just pulled the drain plug and the level plug i think .. there was just some oil on the plug but no oil came out i think in the image the drain is on the bottom of the bell housing and the level plug is the one on the pump ?
That is correct. If is wasn't over full, then fill it back to the proper level, replace the speed sensor and try it out.
Jon, you also need to put the dash in the right mode and set up the throttle linkage while in this mode. This can give you power problems and the problem of the machine not turning off on the key
Hello once again ... i have finally gotten time to continue this project .. we did some major cleaning up and this machine is looking better than when we first bought it lol... now its just to get it working like new again.... I noticed something on the dash today while doing my checks .. well the engine speed sensor hasnt been replaced yet . but i am ordering one so that is one thing i know needs to be fixed .. but the dash is telling me that my boom is overloaded and my ppc oil pressure is low or abnormal .. i checked the oil pressure using a gauge and i adjusted it to the recommended 450 psi it was around 270 - 300 psi when i checked . but the warning light is still flashing , i reseted the dash and it is still there , i am thinking that these two warning light may have the machine in some sort of low operating mode or something like that ... the coolant level indicator also flashes before i start the machine and i narrowed that down to a faulty sensor.. i should be seeing about that tomorrow . but i am lost with the ppc oil pressure warning and the boom overload warning as i cannot find any document or anything on how to troubleshoot these systems , i have documents on how to do basically anything else but this ! any help would be grately appreciated !
Basically that is all the electronic problems i am having currently ... oh and i tried measuring the pressure on the pump today , i got 3000psi out of the front pump in h/o mode while using the left track .... which is low . but i decided not to interfere with pressures till i sort out the electronics ... i would just monitor them and see if there is a difference after the machine is electronically sound..
ok so i have done some testing and here is what i found ... i did pressure testing using a 6000psi gauge connected to the main pumps test port . all tests carried out in H/O mode switching between swing accel on and off @ idle pressures remained at 600 psi for both pumps , and at full rev 700psi (no load) ok for front pump , Left tracking swing accel on 1700 psi , swing accel off 1650 psi .... right tracking swing accel on 1600 psi , swing accel off , (forward) spike to 4k then maintains 1600psi , (reverse) spikes to 2k then maintains 1600psi . ( i am having a lack of power on my right track ) ... rear pump , left tracking swing accel on 1000 psi , swing accel off 2000psi forward , 1000 psi reverse.... right tracking swing accel on , (forward) spike to 2800 then maintains 1700 , (reverse) spike to 2200 then maintains 1700 , did forward again and got same as first forward reading .. so the spikes are consistent .... swing accel off right track (forward) 2800psi steady and maintains (no spiking) , (reverse) 2100psi steady .... swing - rear pump only .. swing accel on 1500 psi , swing accel off 4000psi ( would check swing on front pump when i get time forgot to do this ) Front pump (stick operation , swing accel off ) 1000psi when fully opened and 1000psi when fully closed . when swing accel is on , 5000psi when fully opened and 5000psi when fully closed .. Rear pump , swing accel on .. 2000psi when fully opened and fully closed swing accel off .. 5000psi when fully opened and closed (with swing accel off in H/O stick open and close and bucket open and close are very slow ) Front pump ( bucket operation , swing accel on ) 1000psi open and close swing accel off , 5000 psi Rear pump , swing accel on 5000psi swing accel off 1000psi , opened fully and closed fully .. All circuits were relieved when testing . just description of what swing accel does , when put on it splits the two pumps to work individual for there operations e.g. ( front pump :- stick , swing , left tracking ) (rear pump :- boom , bucket , right tracking ) ... when off it merges the pumps ..
ok so i did some research ... as per the flow chart , one of the tracks was more powerful than one , i could turn easily to the rightside but turning to the leftside gives trouble ... the rightside track doesnt even turn whilst trying to turn the machine to the left ... so upon checking the pressures , the track motors never reach relief pressure so in the flow chart it said if both sides do not reach relief pressure then it is 'defective operation of control valve main circuit check valve'... but there is also something for not being able to turn to the leftside only and then the cause is 'defective operation of ls shuttle valve for bucket'... and if i operate the bucket the tracking does get more powerful .... but that doesnt explain why the tracks motors dont reach relief pressure :s
You have a valve that shifts in travel when you operate another function. When that valve shifts it splits the pumps out with one pump supplying on track and the implements on that valve while the other pump feeds the other track and functions on that side. Each pump has a hose coming back to a load sense valve on each pump. What generally happens is that one of the load sense valves gets a piece of crap in it and the pump won't stroke up. When you are not traveling all the implement are fed by both pumps and everything runs slow. When you travel and operate another function the pumps are split and now items on the good pump work and items on the bad pump continue as before. There were several pump types used on those machines and the load sense cartridges can be in the main control valve or mounted in the pumps. You have to figure out the problem one and go from there. I don't have a book near to be able to nail down which one to check. Good Luck!
Alright sounds good ! I have the manuals etc for the machine .. That should be on the rear pump .. If I am not mistaken they are on the pump . And you are right there are two load sensing hoses running back to the pump .. I would check it out tomorrow .. If the lines are crossed would that cause a problem ?
That is a good question. I would have to study a schematic for some time to figure out what would happen. Boom and stick functions are two pump flow until the travel is actuated. Boom up is two pump flow unless the swing priority is set. Swapping the load sense lines on the pump would change how those pumps feed each function. You should also trace out the pilot lines for the travel functions. As I recall I had a machine that would drift to one side because the dealer had swapped a line to a ball check that allowed for straight travel on an early Dash 6 logger.
ok so i decided to do a differential pressure test .. and i have very little adjustment when i try to set to the correct differential pressure.... on the load sense side i am getting a pressure of 100psi or less .. and main pump pressure varies from 700psi to 1100psi when i try to adjust .. the loadsense pressure does not pass 125 psi when adjusting .. it was at less than 25psi when i first checked it , i am aware that it supposed to be at about 430 psi .. using this formulae .. main pump press - ls pressure = diff pressure... boom up is slow when swing priority is off ..... i get max pressure from rear pump when i relieve the arm circuit with swing priority on.. and with boom raise relieved i get about 250kg/cm2 when i shud be getting about 325kg/cm2... conversion to psi = kg/cm2 x 14.2 ... with tracking i only get a max of 180kg/cm2 from rear pump .. and almost 300kg/cm2 for front pump... these are with swing priority on .. and each associated track ... pumps are pushing 5000psi using certain functions only ....
I've seen junk get into the hoses and prevent any flow from going to the LS valve on the pump. Also be aware that the passages through the main control valve are very small and it only takes a sliver of debris to plug up a passage. As I recall the LS differential should be around 350 PSI when I was working on the Dash 6 machines. Komatsu had a DP gauge built that would read this directly. I set up a couple of calibrated gauges in order to check the DP so I could try to adjust the pumps for feel and found that it made very little difference on how you set the LS valve as to how the pump reacted. Basically the system is set up so that the pump is making enough flow that the pump output flow will create enough resistance, pressure, to be more that the load sense pressure, whatever that pressure happens to be. What you are telling me by what you have done is that someone either swapped some lines around backwards or got some electrical connections in the wrong connectors. What I would suggest is to obtain the hydraulic and electrical schematics and trace out the hose connections making sure they are hooked up in their proper place. I've seen people swap the pump connections to the wrong side and make some of the problems you are seeing. If you don't find the problem there, work your way through the electrical connections. Once you know everything is hooked up properly, you will need to start checking the compensator valves which also cause a lot of problems. The load sense part of the system is part of the pressure compensated check valves for each function.
Ok so I have come to the conclusion that the majority of my problems are related to the rear pump :- slow / weak operation of bucket , boom raise and right tracking .. All controlled by the rear pump and well left joystick etc .. Now what I am considering doing is swapping the pump output lines from front to rear to see if problem persists or changes sides ...is there anything else I need to take into consideration when and if doing this ? Like changing the pressure sensors around etc ... Btw I found this out by doing some test with swing priority/swing accel on which permanently splits the pumps when switched on ..
@ John c . I have the associated diagrams etc . And at 1st when I started this project I did find some messed up electronics , tvc valves were disconnected etc . But now everything with respect to electronics and also all the hydraulic lines seem to be ok and in the right place .. So I just need to find this annoying hard to find bug ....
Sometimes people think the pressure adjustment is made at the pump. This is not true. The only time the pump is adjusted is for torque load on the engine, and track speed. You said the engine doesnt sound like it has enough power. This makes me think someone has been turning screws on the pump. The main servo adjustment on the front and rear pump needs to be checked. Anyway you need to fix that speed sensor. You need to read rpm. When you fix this let me know and i will tell you what to do. I work for a komatsu dealer and I can help you fix this machine.
ok so i switched the lines and the problem switched sides ..... this suggests something is up with the rear pump system .... i would try to adjust the absorption torque and see if anything changes with respect to speed ... lets say i am performing a boom raise with swing accel on.. it would be slow on raise and worse if i try to open/close bucket .. all powered by rear pump boom raise relief reaches 250-280 kg/cm2 very slowly as compared to front pump and with bucket operation relief i get 350kg/cm2 same rear pump.... now as i switched around the outputs around the boom raise relief reaches 330kg/cm2 .... and well the bucket is more responsive and more powerful... even with respect to turning the machine with the tracks .. usually i can only turn to the right because the left track is weak and doesnt spin while i try to turn the machine .. now the problem has switched sides due to me switching around the pumps...
ok one problem that stayed ... boom raise with stick operation ... boom would get dead slow when i operate the stick .. i switched the pumps around and the problem stayed ... @mw85 thanks for the assist ! i really appreciate it ... i am placing the order for the speed sensor and two pressure switches that i need soon... i tried adjusting the tvc valves previously and i did get an overall improvement .. maybe it needs proper adjustment .. and yes the pump pressure is set at the main valves on the main relief valve... what i think is that something may be clogged in my load sense cartridge or something ... idk ... because i am getting a really weird differential pressure reading .... what i have is a very badly setup machine by some people who didnt set it right ..
oh and the dash tells me that the pilot control pressure is abnormal and the boom is overloaded :s the dash got soaked at one point and wasnt working , we scrapped it and cleaned it and it started back working .... after this it started sayin ppc oil press and machine overloaded .. as far as i know my machine doesn't have anything that tells the monitor ppc oil press abnormal and boom overloaded.. on the shop manual it doesnt have any info on this even on the electronic diagrams .. i think this is used in machines with the dash that has 'active mode' or hyper gx .....
soo when i switch the pump output lines the problem changes sides ... but when i change the load sense lines it remains the same .... i just tried swapping lines to see if i would notice any difference ... problem seems to be something in the rear pump ... i am hoping its nothing to serious ... i am thinking about how i could easily take down the rear pumps tvc valve assembly and have a look at the internals of the pump while i'm at it .... i tried adjusting the rear pump tvc valve with little to no change ... so i suspect something is wrong there ....
I have some really good updates for this thread .. Would do as soon as I have time .. I found a major problem in the way one of the pumps was set from the people who refurbished it in the US.. The maximum swash plate angle was adjusted badly .. It was not able to reach its maximum angle .. As compared to the front pump .. I adjusted this as per the shop manuals instructions and now I am getting proper flow from the two pumps .. I noticed this problem when I was messing around with th TVC's for "feel" and to see if I was getting proper adjustment .. When I adjusted the front pump it would work as stated .. Proper increase and decrease characteristics .. But the rear had very little adjustment ..
Have you installed the new speed sensor yet? If so did it change anything?
Thanks for the concern !! well when i did the adjustments to the pump i got some great improvements . Machine turns to both sides now but its still a bit weak .. I'm waiting on the speed sensor and should be receiving it this week , so i would update you as i install it ...
I advise not to mess with the pump til you understand the system.....just sayin....
i understand your concern, I did all tweaking with the shop manual at hand ... i basically am trying to just undo what these "specialists" did ... and its pretty hard doing that when there is soo much that could be wrong... i am awaiting some parts that i needed for the machine . as soon as i install them i would update if any difference is observed .. basically the only problem other than the slight lack of power is when boom raise and stick is operated ; boom raise gets slow ..
and also i spent countless hours studying this machine and its systems..
new rpm sensor in .... would post results when we operate it ... we are doing a water pump change also
komatsu has spent countless hrs. preparing the service manuals... there is a troubleshooting flow chart that "if" followed correctly will bring exact and quick results.....if drifting off course of the chart hair pulling and frustration will be evident.......good luck.....:Banghead:
advice taken .. would post update next week !
Hey Jon_one, i am not experience in your type of machine, however i know some one in T/T who has parts for you machine,solenoids,pressure sensor valve, and Cyl packing kits etc. if this is info, you need , call Khris 407-325-6300.
Hi, I am having similar problem with tracking on similar komatsu machine; Icannot open the link you posted, could you send it to me by email please? [email protected]
Good day Jon_One, I am also having similar problem with the tracking & bucket on similar machine. could you also send me a copy of your manuals please? thank you in advance Jon_one!.. [email protected]