I have a Case 680ck boom cylinder that is leaking out the gland It has a 5" cylinder and has a 2 1/4 rod. I have researched the net and it says the machine should have a 4" cylinder. Maybe it has been switched somewhere down the line? Maybe I haven't found the right information? Does anyone know about this? I need to find a place to get the parts. Any recommended places? I been reading here last night about taking it apart and I do have a 3/4 drive 1 7/8 socket, a cheater bar and heat so I'm going to give it a try.
We ran into a similar situation w/ a case 580ck. I removed gland nut a pulled the rod out. I took the rod and gland nut assembly to the local hyd. shop and they matched up the parts and asembled. the labor charge was not much. I am thinking labor to break nut loose and repack gland and the piston end was around $50 plus parts. was well worth it as opposed to trying to order and return things online.
Thanks rickw, I'm going to call around and see what I can find out. I did find out by looking at Case website that the later 680s had 5' cylinders.
It came apart easy. A rose bud on the rod and a small torch on the bolt and a 10' pipe. Now I need to find parts. Are these parts a dealer only or not?
No, you can order a kit online from many places, or bring them to a hydraulic shop and they probably have everything in stock.
Thanks Delmer. I called a local hydraulic shop and he probably could match up parts. But ordering it online would save me a couple of hours driving time, just haven't been able to find them online yet.
http://www.herculesus.com/home.php
The 5 inch cylinder is the correct one. Here is a link to it. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr62938ar399389
Today I had to go toward a local hydraulic shop so I went the extra distance and got the seals. Asked the guy if he knew the torque on the bolt and he said 210ft/lb, does that sound right? I was thinking more.
No; not for the bolt. That would be for the gland. This is a copy from a 680CK service manual.
Does it show what the piston bolt with cushion device 1 7/8 would be?
No just the 1 1/4 inch bolt with cushion device. I will look into the manual further.
Where is the rod that has a 1 7/8" bolt ? It can't be the in the 2 1/4" rod that is in the boom cylinder.
Yes it is the boom cylinder. 5" I.D. x 39-3/16 stroke Cylinder,Part # D 45313.
The hardest part of doing this repair is getting the piston/rod bolt torque. I called all the dealers around and still haven't got it.
The torque value is in the page of my manual I posted. -------1000 to 1200 ft. lbs. ,with the threads lubricated. Don't torque it with dry threads. If you need to see the bolt look at Part #18 in the online parts book. I posted the link in my #8 post.
Thanks Tinkerer. I think I'm finally understanding. I should I had search the torque for "1 1/4" for the shank? I kept looking for "1 7/8" for the head and I didn't see it on the page. One more question on the "lube part", I'm getting a little confused. I was going to clean the bolt and hole with break cleaner, dry it up and use loctite. I thought loctite had to be clean and dry to work. If I lube it will the loctite still work? Could you explain? The dealer called back a few minutes ago and told me to use blue loctite and to torque to 700 to 750 ft/lbs. Now I see that is what it says on the page you posted on line 4, I have backhoe boom with cushion device 1 1/4"-12 threads.
J.I. Case did not use Loc-Tite when your backhoe was built. That is why they advise lubricating the threads. It is to prevent galling them at those high torque values. If you use Loc-Tite ,cleaning the threads with brake cleaner is the thing to do. It is its own lubricant until it cures. 700 to 750 is correct for the bolt with the cushion device.
I am thank-full of all the help especially Tinkerer who had patience with my thick head. Tomorrow I'll put the piston back on.
The cylinder is on the machine but now it won't start. It has been sitting since the cylinder removed. My brother had the starter rebuilt because he said he burned it out trying to get the machine to run. I was over his place last weekend and tried starting it, disconnected the air filter from the manifold, bleed the new fuel filters he put on since the starter was out, using the manual pump. Wanted to bleed the injectors so I took off some covers off and found some adjusting screws and decided not to touch them without asking here first so I put them back on. It seems to me the starter turns over slow. He uses 1 12v battery and I figure that is what he has used all along so I didn't question it. Could the rebuild-er wire the starter for a 24v and that would cause it to turn slower? Just a thought. Should the machine be 24v all along? When we crank a little vapour does come out the exhaust. We tried ether a couple of time and nothing happened. So we gave up.
I think maybe the wrench is 1-7/8"? I never heard of an 1-7/8 thread, but am willing to be corrected.
The 1-7/8 wrench was for the boom cylinder. That is fixed and on the machine. Now the problem is the engine won't start. Thanks for the interest.
Has the machine been sitting since November 13th, 2013 ??? Maybe you need a new battery. If it is a diesel engine it will never start until the starter spins it at a normal speed. Prime the fuel system until you get a good flow of fuel at all of the injector lines where the nuts are on the injectors. In regards to any adjusting screws, do not touch them.
It does not seem like a hydraulic shop would be that far from anywhere here in Connecticut.Hope you get the no start repaired now that the leak is fixed.Ron G
the machine has been sitting since then, has a new battery, I have a feeling the starter doesn't turn fast enough though. We jump it with another battery and it did not speedup the starter.
Thanks Ron. I found the seals in Rocky Hill. That part is done.
This is sometimes referred to as a Zombie thread. Maybe next time post a new thread if you have an unrelated question. The starter would have entirely different parts to be switched to 24V, and it's not an engine that would typically have 24V system. One good warm battery should easily start this engine. What's the CCA rating of the new battery? Hopefully 750 or more. Assuming the battery is good, jumping it having no difference indicates the battery is good, and the starter is working right, then the two possibilities are drag on the engine, and bad connection somewhere in the battery cables. First, make sure all hydraulic control levers are centered. The other to test is to crank it for 15 seconds when everything is cool and then use a temp gun to see how hot the battery cables, connections, etc are. You can feel them with your finger too, but the temp gun is a little more precise, and you won't get burned that way. Two OTHER possibilities because it's been sitting, vermin plugged air filter and/or muffler, and alternator or water pump bearing locked up.