Hey, I bought a used machine and needed to do a lot of work on it to get it to a good state. It’s a bobcat t140 with a Kubota v2203 tier 2. I’ve replaced all the belts with pulleys and tensioners, all filters, all fluids, new lift pump, new shutoff solenoid, new injectors and injection pump. The machine starts up right away and runs no problem. Issue I’m running into is under load the machine puffs black smoke at that point and looses power right away, also after running the exhaust gets so hot that I need to shut machine down. After researching, I’m thinking the machine is running lean, so I went to check the timing on the fuel injection pump and it’s way off. The second timing mark on the gear pushes fuel from #1 about an inch after both lines have passed, the service manual says that it should happen just when I hit that second line. I’ve tried removing shims and tested after each shim removed and I still cannot get the timing on it to set correctly. Currently only have 1 shim on the pump and it’s still retarded an inch passed the mark and have no clue how to fix this. I believe that this is the issue with the machine running lean but I’m stumped on this. Any help would be great
It’s possible that the key on the pump drive gear is sheared.?? But it probably wouldn’t start right up..??
Turbo
Non turbo
Dam good guess tho.. When I read it, my wheels started turning.. could be.. I have a thought about the timing.. Does it have an electric shut off.?? If yes, remove it .. Another thing is, once u remove it, the rack goes to “starting fuel” because of the little start springs in the gov.. U CANT CHECK TIMING with the rack in the starting position. If it has a cover on the side of the engine that u can remove and get your finger on the control rack..?? U have to move the rack between starting and stopping.. Let’s call it flush with the pump hsg.. Giver a whirl..& see what that does.. Good luck
When I was working with the pump I had the cover off the whole time to ensure the rack was in the right position. I guess I’m following but still a little confused and what you’re referring to in regards to “starting fuel” and the springs. When I’d remove a shim, I’d re-set the rack position to get it in, drop it in, bolt it down and prime it, then do the timing test. Is there a step I’m missing with the rack? I’m following the service manual to the tee making sure before testing the rack is fully open. The shut off solenoid is electric I guess so your saying remove it for the timing procedure?
By “make sure the rack was in the right position”.. r u talking about so u can get it in the hole.? U have to move the rack so the rack is equal to the end of the pump hsg.. If the rack is all the way 1way, it’s either in shut off or starting position.. & u can’t set the timing in either..
Yeah just so I can get it in the hole I have it in that slightly open or closed position. I then open it all the way open to time it. So when I drop the pump in don’t touch the rack?
Are u kidding me.!!! Go back and re-read what I wrote.. It might work and it might not. How are u getting fuel thru the pump.?? Did u remove anything from the top of the pump.?
I did re read it, and I guess I’m lost here and sorry for the confusion. Makes sense what your saying I guess I’ll really need to figure out the positioning of that rack to see if it gives me different testing results. I haven’t removed anything from the pump and I’m getting fuel through the priming bulb then when hand cranking the crankcase over to test its pushing fuel through the lift pump
Check the number of holes marked on the gasket shim and compare.