Is there a reason that I can not pull my governor/injector pump out of the accessory case more than 1/4”. It stops dead with a mechanical clunk and seems to be pivoting off the backside of the front flange somewhere.
Yep a tapered shaft pump should be timed before you pop the gear
Best bolt it back up and then work on getting the tapered end off the gear, with the crank in the correct location, on the proper number 1 TDC compression stroke. Maybe someone will have procedure for you. Simon C
My injection pump is shown in the first photo(7W0189). My pump DOES NOT have the accessory drive as shown in the second pic. It bolts directly to the front housing plate. So it looks like I still need to remove the timing plug, remove the bolt and washer and with a short punch, drive the shaft out of the gear?
The crank needs to be timed first or you won't know where to put it after in terms of timing. Best wait till someone sends you the whole disassembly and re-assembly before getting into trouble. Simon C
Timing shouldnt be a concern as I am pulling the head and can put timing anywhere it needs to be later. I have factory service manual but it says absolutely nothing about the pump without the accessory drive attached to it. I will likely be putting in new (3) ring pistons.
No punch!!! first in your first picture the little plate with the 4 bolts remove that there is a hole for a timing pin turn engine over by hand till pin goes in then there is a plug on flywheel housing (it might be marked with TC) a 3/8 bolt should screw in. I'm thinking we used a steering wheel puller to pop the gear maybe Nige could give you better directions and timing pin number
Best listen to these instructions or it may get costly. Simon C
Sorry no can do, not for a day or two at least. I’m working from my phone because my PC has taken a dump and I can’t get anyone to look at it until Wednesday. It’s Carnival here right now and everyone’s off work.
Si desea puedo guiarlo en el proceso de reparación de su PC
I very much appreciate the advice given! The bolt and washer described in the attached photo from the service manual are behind a 2” threaded plug in the front of the timing gear housing. My ref to a punch was taken directly from the service manual. I have not taken the plug out yet but cant imaging any puller doing its work in a 2” hole. ???
Sorry, my advice was for Mr. @Nige , who's having PC problems... I wasn't aware of the issue you're having, sorry.
I seem to remember 3/8 fine bolts being used can't ever remember using a hammer and punch on any timing gear
I remember using a brass punch on one, in an underground machine to remove but only after pinning the crank and the pump on # 1 Cylinder TDC. Both valves loose., and not on #4 with valves in overlap. Simon C
I should have been more specific in my first post, the Injection Pump is going out for rebuild. Engine getting an inframe. What am I missing that I need to worry about timing? Timing will have to be redone at assembly anyway.
The reason I said about putting the timing pin in pump first is that way you don't have to remove valve cover to make sure you are on number 1 tdc and not number 4 top dead center. Since you are tearing the engine down you are going to have to watch valves to put the timing bolt in the flywheel at the right place. second I've been thinking about popping the gear there were a couple of fabricated tools to do that look at this thread might help you D4C inj pump gear puller
Procedure for the early injection pump housing removal is to remove the threaded plug at front of the engine and use a hammer and punch to hit the head of the loosened bolt to separate the accessory drive shaft from the gear. The 5P143 timing fixture plate is used to reset the timing on assembly. Later housings are removed by removing the bolt retained plug at the front of the engine and using a special puller consisting of a FT1537 Socket, FT1538 Fuel Pump Timing Gear Puller and 5P8676 extension
Is the above procedure missing something? It never mentions the timing pin as far as where it goes. I'm sure they are talking about Pinning the fuel pump cam shaft. We need to see the rest of the story. Wow just bad instructions for the unknowing.
It appears to me that the procedure @Old Magnet posted is an adjustment procedure that is to be used after the timing has been checked using the pin method and found to be incorrect. At least that’s what Step 1 seems to indicate. I would imagine the pin procedure is in a separate section.
Top Center Compression (Later 3204)
Timing Pin Method (Later 3204)
I whipped up this “pusher” today. Will try it tomorrow after moving more snow. I used the original steel plug and tapped it for a 3/4-16 bolt that was in the bolt bucket. It was even yellow. The hammer/punch method was useless, as even after removing the fan guard, a hammer swing between blades was only a couple inches.
Somethings strange here. The threaded plug version is for an early pump housing that would have a auxiliary drive shaft and housing where the transfer pump would be mounted Also this version would allow the pump housing to be uncoupled from the auxiliary drive housing without messing with the drive gear??? How about a picture of your arrangement. Also the s/n of your machine.
As requested…..your help and sluething is GREATLY appreciated!
More pics. Something is X’d out on the top of the injector pump and 7W0189 stamped below it.
you have a new scroll pump The directions in post 21 is the old compact like I mentioned before the timing pin goes under cover with the four bolts there are actually two places the timing pin goes in one place is to center the rack and one for timing
And the s/n of the tractor please?? There are three different versions of injection pump housing, early, later and new scroll. Appears you have the new scroll pump and yes the timing pin goes under the four bolt cover. Could be the pump is an upgrade as the threaded access plug was used on earlier and late versions.
27Y02993 according to his first post. HeavyEquipmentForums
45V4378 is not an engine match for a D3B. That would be much earlier like a 79U series Could that be 45V43781?
Its 45V43781
My pusher worked slick as can be! Thank you to all who helped.
Pic of pusher and unit.
Here's the pin timing for the new scroll pump.
I suggest you get this manual, there are to many pages for me to scan them all...
OK, likely cause of fuel loss: Stuck transfer pump plunger, stuck/sticking injection pump lifters. Most likely caused by fuel contamination aggravated by modern poor lubrication fuel. Are you going to attempt pump tear down yourself?
According to this thread he’s looking for someone to rebuild it for him. HeavyEquipmentForums
Here’s one for sale on eBay. Caterpillar 3204 Vehicular Engine 45V1-UP Systems Op Testing Adjusting Manual + | eBay Most are in very good but used shape. www.ebay.com
No, Im taking it down to Rochester Diesel next week. Some very reputable area shops send the older cat pumps there.
I have version -02 of that form in my service manual.
Does version -02 cover the new scroll pump?
No. Unfortunately.
You need version 04 or later of that document.
The new scroll section is 19 pages covering the governor and pump. Many special tools required and lots to do with the governor.
I found and purchased an -05 version. Thanks for the info!
You should get the matching Disassembly and Assembly manual Form # SENR3230 as well
A few years back, I would have accepted the challenge of the pump repair. No interest in educating myself now for something I will likely never use. Im heading to Rochester Diesel tomorrow morning with pump/governor and injectors for a bench test. Ill let you know what he finds.
One bit of info that is hard to come by is the Rack Setting for that New Scroll Pump. Setting is 0.618"