Takeuchi TB175 Oil/ Coolant alarm is stuck on at start. Occasionally while operating there will be a click behind the seat and it will turn off. Does the coolant level detector make it clicking noise? Or is this a stuck relay? I have confirmed the oil level sensor is functioning. (Continuity closed when engine is off, continuity open when engine is on and unplugging the sensor has no effect). I have tried grounding out the coolant sensor wire, no change. Confirmed continuity between coolant sensor and coolant level Detector. Red and black wires going into detector show 28 volts. Does 28 volts at the detector indicate a diode somewhere has gone bad? Final wire coming out of detector in schematic shows that it goes to relay 5. Although I'm having difficulty locating relay 5. I have to look through the service manual and the parts manual and cannot find anything labeled relay 5 or coolant, oil relay. Does anyone know where this is located? Does anyone know how to test the detector? Does the detector make a click or is there another relay back there somewhere doing that. I'm wondering if I jumper 24v power to the wire That leaves the detector and goes to the relay if that is what would open the relay to help confirm whether the problem is with the detector or the relay? It also looks like there's a diode between them. I just don't know where these are located. The wire disappears into the loom. I'm not sure what to do next to troubleshoot this other than a locate the relay/ diode and try replacing the detector or them. Any help would be appreciated, I'm stuck. View attachment 283277
Looking at this description from the service manual it seems like unplugging the oil sensor and unplugging the detector would prevent the auto shutdown circuit from being activated? Yet neither has an effect.
I've also seen the rumor that if you ground the coolant level sensor wire to the block that should clear the fault if the sensor is responsible but can anyone confirm that? It looks as though it's a capacitive sensor and it has its own detector. Which leads me to believe that might not work and I probably will just need to replace the sensor to confirm?
I have them grounded on all my TL150, TB180FR & TB53FR machines, all 7 of them (8 if you count the one we traded.) Definitely not a rumor.
Well grounding doesn't clear the fault for me. Anyone know where the coolant sensor relay is? Is it in the gauge cluster?
I found detector in my TB180FR book.
Yes my book also shows the detector but it does not show the location of the relay that it goes to. Studying the wiring diagram it looks as though the detector grounds the green wire which then allows that relay to open but I don't know where it is. I'm tempted to try grounding the green wire to test it but I don't want to blow anything up in case I'm wrong. I just wish I could find this thing.
On my TB180FR machines, the detector output goes directly to the controller.
On my TL150 machines, the detector output goes to detector relay, which is in one of the triple relays above the operator's feet.
#10 says detector
So the detector gets power from red/ black. When it tetects ground on blue/yellow it grounds out green which goes to relay 5. I put a sniffer on it and found it. It's located by the operators right foot just under the joystick above the floor. Grounding green. Manually causes it to click. I think this relay contains several relays. Unplugging it stops the warnings and disables the auto shutdown. Just unplugging the small connector that goes to pink and several black wires also works. Unsure if this indicates it's the relay or some other issue downstream.
Turn it over and resolder all the cold/ broken solder connections. Post #13 here. TL130 Fuel Stop Solenoid I have a 2004 TL130 that I have been dealing with for some time. Like many of the threads I have ready, I am not getting power to the red wire of the stop solenoid. I have continuity from the red wire on the K relay to the red wire at the fuel stop relay, but no power coming from the that pin... HeavyEquipmentForums
The connections all seem ok but I'm unsure how to test. I could just replace it and see BUT... The machine behaves normally with it unplugged and this circuit is such a problem in takuchi machines, there's so many failure points that will leave you stranded... I'm actually thinking the better part of valor here might be just to leave it disconnected permanently? It's not a rental machine, my car doesn't have even an auto shutdown for low coolant or low oil pressure. I'm not sure the benefit of this feature outweighs the headaches it causes... Unless the circuit is important for something else?
What does the new part cost?
Even on that slightly out of focus image, I can see all the cracked solder joints.
New one was $60, last that I checked. But the same thing will happen, due to the manufacturing process. Once "properly" soldered, it won't happen again.
$100 if you can find it.
Can I just But a little flux and heat on there and try and put a drop of solder on the top of each of those and that might fix it? Spending a hundred bucks on the part doesn't seem like much but I'm not entirely sure it will fix the problem and could just be money wasted. If I could resolder it and confirm that it works then and that that was the problem then replacing it would seem like a brighter idea. It seems like takuchi really has electrical problems. Lots of posts about these relay boxes not working and wreaking havoc. They are not protected very well from vibration or moisture. I can understand that maybe in a closed cab machine but I'm getting nervous about what is in store for me on my TL 240 with all those relays being out in the weather.