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Help track links wearing uneven causes

Race5118 ยท 2013-07-29 21:42

One of the track link pins on my Komatsu PC200lc-6 broke today. One side of the link is being smashed down. What causes this? I can fix the pin I believe a few more are going to break before it's all done.

Replies18
  1. #1FMD2013-07-30 10:18
  2. #2Race51182013-07-30 12:51

    No it's wearing on the outside of the chain on the outer edge. It tracks straight.

  3. #3powerjoke2013-07-30 14:17

    Bearings out of lower rollers ? Pj

  4. #4alrman2013-07-30 17:43

    How much movement is there in the front idler carriers? Like pj asks, What do all the rollers look like? How much walking is being done on the side of the hill? Clean some of that dirt away & give us a better look. That track frame looks a little worn, right next to the carrier for the idler.

  5. #5Race51182013-07-30 19:00

    I checked all of the bottom roller they all look relatively good, and turn freely. The front idler has a little wobble. I didn't check the carrier rollers. Stuck my hand behind the idler guard and found some torn up steel I'm assuming that happened when the guy lost the track but I'm not sure. Here is another picture of the Idler and the track link. http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy48/race5118/2013-07-30_14-35-49_590.jpg The Idler http://i776.photobucket.com/albums/yy48/race5118/2013-07-30_14-36-18_866.jpg That's about as clean as i can get it without bringing my pressure washer up there and making a mud pit for me to work in.

  6. #6Race51182013-07-30 19:02

    It spends a little time on the side of the hills although I try to make it fairly flat as i work up.

  7. #7John C.2013-07-30 19:46

    You need to take a photo from the side of the link going over the top of the track frame. Then take another photo of the link as it is going over the sprocket or the idler. In the first photo you are looking for the thickness of the link rail section. On the second photo you are looking for the clearance side to side on the big link end and the small link end.

  8. #8Race51182013-07-31 01:12

    When i get it back together and off the hill i will take the other pictures. I am waiting for some parts now.

  9. #9lantraxco2013-07-31 03:10

    I don't think this is the problem, but it looks to me like the track frame is spread where the idler rides, very common on excavators. Lets the idler wallow around a lot, which is not conducive to long track life.

  10. #10Race51182013-08-01 22:41

    The Track frame is spread about 3/4" and the idler has some slop in it putting new bushings in the idler. Any Idea how to bend the track frame straight.

  11. #11Scrub Puller2013-08-01 23:20

    Yair . . . Spread rack frames in the way of the idlers are a common problem. I run the machine onto a length of rsj or some such, weld on some chocks to the good side to take the thrust and then jack or pull the bent parts into line. You might need a couple of rose-buds or, in extreme cases cut the frame reweld and plate it, no big deal. Bent diagonal braces on dozers can sometimes be warped straight by pouring on the rods with a big welder . . . you have to figure out where to weld though. Here again it is sometimes necessary to put in a few slits with a torch. Three or four days of welding can save big bucks . . when you get things back in alignment it saves tearing up the rails. Cheers.

  12. #12Race51182013-08-02 01:05

    I will give it a shot as soon as i get it moving again scrub puller. Thank you all for the help in figuring this thing out.

  13. #13lantraxco2013-08-02 01:37

    Yep, a little ingenuity goes a long way. With the idler out you can use a porta-power or hydraulic jack, weld up a frame to go around the track frame out of whatever steel you got laying around, or even if you're careful a couple wraps of heavy chain and heat the side you want to move. Go a little tight if you can, not much. If you have a couple really big C clamps like I do, you can use those, just heat and tighten untill you get what you want. Judicious application of the BFH is not uncommon here. Usually down here when they do this kind of repair they weld a couple pieces of flat plate on each side, inner and outer, maybe T1 or such like, 1/2" or thicker, about two inches wide and a couple feet long, weld the edges to the track frame so they stick out wide, stiffens up the opening. Lined up with the inner guide rails as I recall. Try to get the back ends past the plate that the track adjuster pushes on, that's a strong point. :my2c

  14. #14Race51182013-08-02 01:49

    I was definitely planing on giving it a little more strength after she's all back to straight. I have plenty of steel laying around. I shall post some pics when it's all done. Parts should be here tomorrow.

  15. #15Race51182013-08-09 12:57

    Well we had to redo the idler bushings they where shot, I rechecked the track frame it was only bent out about an 1/8" so decided not to mess with that. Now the track adjusting cylinder will not pump out, feels like something is stuck in there, I was using a cheater bar on my grease gun and it was still hard to pump in. We did get the track tightened enough to move it off the hill it was on and on a nice flat area. Then took the track back off pulled the idler and spring assembly, now I have to get a new track adjustment cylinder. What a fun project this has been.

  16. #16lantraxco2013-08-09 13:02

    Did you take the grease valve out and see if you could pump grease throught it easily? Not uncommon for these to get a piece of dirt in them and plug up more or less solid. If the adjuster released easily when you took the track back off, it's not a problem with the cylinder I don't think. Cheers, Lanway

  17. #17Race51182013-08-09 14:03

    Well to get the adjuster to release I had the idler out set the bucket on it with the grease valve all the way out and the hit it with a 16 pound sledge. I am pretty sure it's messed up.

  18. #18lantraxco2013-08-09 14:24

    Yup....