I have an older model Takeuchi TB135 that recently started overheating (coolant temp) while running the hydraulics continuously. I have not let it get into the max range but it can get really close and I have to stop moving any of the hydraulic functions for a few minutes and let the coolant temps come back down. If I let it sit still while the engine runs, it will fully cool to normal operating temperature in about 5 minutes. I can run the engine at half throttle and it takes much longer to heat up over normal operating temps and will never get close to the max range but the machine is much weaker. I have been using the Tractor Supply 46 hydraulic oil to top it off every time I blow a hose or spring a leak...which has been quite a bit. I have probably replaced 20 gallons of oil or more in the machine since I have gotten it over a year ago. The filters have been changed, thermostat has been changed, radiators have been washed externally, radiator bushings replaced, coolant flushed, new water pump, new fan, and all hydraulic leaks have been fixed. I do own a thermal camera, but haven't stopped at a job site to check temperatures yet and would not know what would be normal or not. Any help with helping me track down this overheating issue would be much appreciated! The machine is back at my house and I can do some maintenance on it today before it goes to the next job site tomorrow.
Hello Sir Only idea I can think of is internally blocked radiator and hydraulic oil cooler or externally blocked oil cooler. Are there any hydraulic operating issues that you have noticed since the overheating started? If you find the problem and you get time please post back to the forum and let us know what the issue was. Best regards
Nah. It’s not a hydraulic restriction. Yous got an engine cooling system problem. Should verify the engine cooling system is working properly, first. Or, not. Let’s start shotgunning expensive hydraulic parts at it. Check water in, water out and calculate the delta T across the radiator. Compare ambient temp to coolant temp, check air flow through the radiator. Delta T across the radiator should be 10-12 degrees. Too much delta is a flow problem. Not enough delta T is a capacity problem. At least then, you can pinpoint if it’s an internal issue like a water pump Or an external issue like too much fan bypass. But, what do I know? Let’s boil the thermostat in a pan of water.
Thermostat has already been boiled in water and begins opening just under 180° and is fully open at 184°. The reason I suspect a hydraulic issue is because I can max rev and not move any hydraulic function and it will never overheat. Within 5 minutes of moving any hydraulic function, it begins to climb. Stop moving and let the engine stay at the same RPM, the temperature drops back to normal operation temperature. Radiator shrouds are all still there and sealed. I installed new radiator bushings when I first got the machine since the radiator didn't sit correctly and had too much fan bypass. I also installed a brand new OEM water pump directly from Yanmar and have had no issues until recently. Nothing has changed. I also thought coolant issue so I redid the coolant completely, pulled the thermostat and tested it, even installed a new thermostat, washed the outside of the radiator (which was clean already) and ensured the water pump was actually moving coolant which it was for sure. The coolant system is fully topped off and not leaking and the hydraulic system is in range per filling procedure in the manual and not leaking. I have no idea how to measure Delta T, but I guess I could go buy all the equipment to measure that instead of buying any hydraulic repair parts.
That’s good background info. Thanks Boiling the T stat didn’t fix it? Damn, we are going to need to take some measurements. First, Get her hot and bothered the only way you know how. Then measure the temperature of the top of the radiator and the bottom of the radiator with your favorite thermometer. What’s the difference in temperature? We gots to know! Then we can help.
I'm with Coaldust on this. At what point was your hydraulic oil hotter than your engine coolant? If it never was, you don't have a hydro heating issue. Have you the means to pressure test your radiator cap? That is such a commonly overlooked piece of the puzzle. Is your engine turbocharged? Does it have a wastegate? Is your exhaust clear or are you puffing black? How about your air cleaners, are they? Do they weigh more than they should? Does she make good power? Honest questions need honest answers
The engine is not turbocharged. I have not taken measurements, but should be able to tomorrow at the job site. Exhaust is clear. Air cleaner / pre filter are brand new since I thought the same thing. Intake pipe that runs to in front of the radiator (colder air) is intact and not clogged. Does not seem to be lacking on power. I have not checked my coolant cap but it does not leak and does push/pull coolant from the reservoir as the level does change in it. I will do my best to run the Seek Thermal camera tomorrow at the job site and see what I can find then report back. Thank you for the replies so far!
In all my years of working on equipment I can not count the times I've been told the radiator and oil coolers are clean and not the problem with overheating of the engine and or Hydraulic system, Only to get there and find that the edges of all radiators / coolers are covered in dirt mixed with oil or fluff from job sites preventing them from doing what they are supposed to do. When you clean these it takes a long time for most machines that are fairly clogged up and most all the time the coolers have to be separated from the radiator to be cleaned well enough to get to the next one. Several times I've had to wash my personal equipment coolers which is only two machines and it took me a better part of 8 hours to get the job done and the coolers back to new condition free of all debris clogging the cooling fins. Last job I did on a 954 Liebherr for a customer went like this short story. Showed up for overheating hydraulics. Found nothing honestly wrong with the machine other than the coolers were filthy. Recommended thorough cleaning of oil coolers and radiator. Customer stated they would have their ''mechanics'' perform this job. Called me back the next day and said I was wrong after paying their guy to wash them out for an entire day. Got back to the jobsite, checked machine and pulled the first cooler off the stack and showed them that it was not cleaned worth a crap. Another day of their employee doing the job and got the call from the maintenance super telling me to come and do my damn job and fix the machine. Back at the job he persistently tells me That I need to find the issue with the machine and it's not the coolers or radiator being dirty with all that cleaning that was done. Called the main boss at the facility and told him what was needed to which he said '' I've heard about this and think my guy is right'' I ordered New coolers and a Radiator that they approved and wanted because there had to be a bad part or parts on this machine. Replaced them, topped off with coolant and oils. Called main boss out of his office to meet me in his maintenance building with his ''mechanics'' to show them all the coolers and radiator that were 50 percent blocked with fluff, oil and dirt using a spot light to shine through the fins. Clean from top to bottom is not the same as clean all the way through I would rule this out before going any farther.
Radiator cap being bad / collapsing hoses can cause the issue you are experiencing
What is the best method to cleaning them other than using water to remove debris / dirt from the fins and ensuring the water can freely move through the entire surface area of the cooler fins? This is what I have done several times as part of my maintenance on the machine and I cannot visible see any obstructions.
Would the radiator cap be bad if the reservoir level changes without leaking and the system builds up pressure and holds without leaking once up to temperature? How would I be able to locate collapsed hoses without pulling off each and every one of them?
They won't stay collapsed. They would suck shut during operation. Didn't realize you're working on a compact zero swing. That's gonna be challenging
Harbor freight temp gun is like $40 and works very well although I haven't tried it on a radiator. To see if the radiator is plugged in-between I take a shirt and set it in from with the fan on, it should hold the shirt up
I have a Seek Thermal Imaging camera that tells temperature but haven't used it yet while on the job site. The fan has absolutely no problem moving air. My shirt flaps in the wind it produces from a couple feet away.
Neither of the radiator hoses suck shut when running. They are usually pressurized. The tail does swing wider than the tracks.
Yeah but is the air going through the coolers and not around it?
100% sure it's not going around it. I can put a piece of paper close to the front of the coolers and it will instantly suck it to it.
A few more things to check and rule out before getting deeper. Inside the radiator is there build up of deposits choking the passages down any at all ? This would need to be cleaned out by a radiator shop. The specific gravity of the coolant mix to ensure its not mostly water. Was the old coolant rusty indicating water jackets possibly heavily corroded ? When you changed the water pump how did the inside look when pump was off Are you sure the pump is performing properly ? have had issues with units before so not unheard of. Verifying the engine coolant temperature to rule out faulty sensor or faulty gauge is a great idea. Nothing wrong with pulling the sensor or find another jacket to install a manual probe / gauge. Last one is going to seem silly though I've seen this happen quite a few times, Make sure the thermostat is not only correct for the machine, make sure it was installed right side up. I will admit I have done this in my younger years being in a rush with a machine that had an odd ball thermostat that looked like it was in correct but the damn thing was upside down. Learned me something that day when elders were helping diagnose my self made issue
Water works good, too. The spots that stay wet are plugged.
Never thought of that, I'll try that next time
What's the other side look like?
Any progress on this ??
my brother & I spent 10 hrs. cleaning my radiator/hydro coolers the hose water would not rinse clean so we washed sprayed degreaser rinsed repeat until they did and fixed the problem i couldn't believe how dirty they were but looked clean