I'm building a small grizzly to use with my compact equipment, mainly to seperate materials on site. I am wondering what to use for grizzly bars. I was thinking 2x2 square tube 3" on center. Then to keep cost down I was considering 1/2" rebar, but Im afraid it will wear out much sooner and be more expensive in the long run. I have a screen thats 4x8 (can be seen in the pic) that I was going to use for part of it but I think I would rather have it all one piece. I have looked online and see that screen is very expensive. Any insight as to what would work best? Thanks!! There will be 2 additional uprights and crossbars equally spaced to the front and rear of the center one. The shop is definitely due for a cleaning too!
Heres a fuzzy picture of one I built a couple years ago.... to me you can't overbuild a grizzly. http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab208/parkrapids/0522121646b.jpg
Holy crap grandpa, those are some huge bars! This one is underbuilt to use with anything other than the 5 ton mini and track skiddy. I have a full size one in the pit, but I wanted something to be able to use on site and move easily.
Even for your small machines, it looks like you will be limited to very light duty. I would recommend against the square tube for bars. They will bend very easily. For the size you have, maybe think about 1/2" X 3" bars. If you have any contacts at a gravel pit? Maybe you could get some of their old scalping screens. It does not have to be one piece, just connect it with a good flat plate in the middle.
I agree with Jerry, tube will dent and bend, than stuff will start to stick,
rebar would last longer than tubing
What size do you think? 3/4"?
it would probley work but if you can get some 1" I would rather use it if you have to buy it I would look at priceing some flat bar something like 1/2x3" or 3/4 x3 or 4 .but if you are using compact machines you will have to watch the weight so you can still pick it up
another idea would be to use your 3/4" rebar and put tubing on something like every other 1 or 2nd or 3rd with rebar welded on top of it that way it would help support any impact from large pieces that falls on it
Yair . . . we found heavy wall box section welded diamond wise worked pretty good. Cheers.
I would look for heavy wall pipe, or better yet, used drill steel from a small rock drill. Check with any blasters in the area and see if they can sell you broken steel. Rebar, with its ridges, helps material to cling instead of sliding off cleanly. Scrubs idea works too, and it sounds like you may already have the box tube.
Thanks for all of the info and ideas guys! I only have enough box steel to finish the frame. I had thought about the ridges on the rebar catching stuff, but for some reason rebar seems to be cheaper than round stock. I dont want to cut cost and have it not work well though. I tried to make it steeper to help the material roll off. I like the really like the drill steel idea, but there arent any blasters that close by.
Nedly, Looks like you are going to have to beef that invention up a bit. Not trying to be negative.. the one we have for the compact's is much heavier duty. I will get a few fotos and shoot them over to you. Good Luck, CD
Thanks CD. Its not done yet, actually I havent worked on it since the pics were taken. Theres more steel to go in, and likely some 45* gussets. I'm at a standstill as I cant decide what to use for bars. I'd love to see the pics of yours, hopefully it will give me some ideas to move forward! No negativity taken, thanks for your help!!!
20x50mm flat works nice for most purposes, similar to grandpa's grizzly.
Nedly, I just joined. I didn't see where you stated the max size of material going across the grizzly. Mike
I built a grizzly out of 5/8 rebar on a home made screener a few years ago, it looks like a bag of pretzels now you need some thing stronger.
Oil pipe one I made. May not be pretty, but it sure works nice!
What size and wall pipe? how large are the rocks?
Yair . . . millercross3's design is obviously purpose built for a specific job. The horizontal ground level bars could be a pain in some applications, I always made them so you could clean out on three sides with a bucket Cheers.
I guess millercross3 will keep sliding it sideways to get the undersize. Don't know what size/type material will be going across the bars. If the oversize is very large I'm guessing the welds holding the bars to the frame will start cracking due the pipe bars flexing too much. Mike
Don't have a picture but I have seen a Fleco brush blade for a old D8 laid over on a frame and used for a grizzly. It sure never bent and depending on the application the spacing may be a bit large, about 6" between the large solid steel bars.
I guess I should have did a "Paul Harvey's.....And the rest of the story" LMAO...... We have a feed conveyor underneath my grizzly, hence why it tapers to the center. Only move it if I want to, not because I have to. It is 2 3/8" oil pipe at 6" space, right around 7' on high side that tapers down to 3', using 8' pipes. Been like a wet dream for 5 years of use. Granted I'm not putting car sized granite rocks over it, but I guess the largest has been near a 3 footer, but average 1.5 to 2' rocks. An ounce of brains goes a long ways. Just cuz it's 7' in the back, don't mean I dump my loads all at 10'. I'm not abusive to it, but I don't baby it neither. Like everything, there is no one answer that fits all applications. How big of rock you are putting across will determine thickness of the bars to be used, how big of rock you want to be grizzlied off will determine how far you want your bars spaced...and so on and so forth. A big one too, who will be dumping across the grizzly...if using hired help-make it as thick of bars and heavy duty as possible, normally they don't care, cuz they will still be getting paid to fix what's broken.
That explains a lot, millercross3. And yes, the human factor is always an important part of the equation. Grizzlies can be treated right and, like yours, last for years or abused and be scrap iron in a very short time. Mike