I bought a 262 that was unfortunately used to load road salt and has never had the bucket off of it. The cab controlled bucket release plungers that go into the bucket to hold it on are rusted up solid. A hammer does not budge them. Does anyone have any ideas how I can get this operational? Heat and hammer? I tried penetrating lubricant but I think this is beyond what that will do. Thanks.
Raise the bucket and try hitting the plungers from under, see if that;s helping then try from the handles again ( back and forth ), you have to break the rust weld . O! don't forget to secure the bucket when you work underneath
I've tried pushing down on the tooth with a shaft under it and pushing down with the hydraulics and I've tried hitting it with a sledge hammer and neither will even try to budge it. I don't think this bucket has ever been off in it's life. I'm contemplating pulling the pins out and taking the bucket and attach plate off so I can flip it upside down and hammer down on it. At this point I'm almost thinking I might need a whole new attache plate assembly!
Try heat + hammer , they have to give up eventually , disconnect the joint from the plungers to the handles so you can beat :bash them strait down. don't give up
There's no room to beat down from the top. The only way to beat down is flip the whole assembly over by removing it from the hydraulics. I think you're right it will require heat. I don't have oxy on site so it will be a few days before I can get around to it.
Propane + Oxygen doe's the job
I don't have oxygen either. There's a welding shop in town, I just have to catch them when they're not busy.
I have around my shop one of this http://www2.northerntool.com/snow-ice-removal/torch-kits/item-17384.htm this son o..b.. puts out lots of BTU , 500 k according to the site and $70 , works on you barbecue bottle , buy the time you pay the guy to do the job you end up whit the torch and a job done , if I was you I try it . I got mine from Sears 4 $50
Thanks, I'll look into it. The welding shop is a relative so that's not really a problem.
Good luck , keep posting you results
soak them in PB blaster and let it soak in then hit it with a hammer. Aviod heat if posible since it will weaken the metal. Try some freeze off penatrating oil on the pin itself to contract the matal
Are you in a rush to get the bits off,if not some penetrating oil put on each day for a week or so then a little heat may do the trick but get some good quality stuff worked for me,patience is the key.
unless you want to replace the atachment plate avoid the use of heat. The heat will weaken the mount
If you do a lot of work on old equipment or evnen newer stuff where yo often need to aply a large amount f frche to pull some thing off that fits tightly or has siezed up this could be just the thing you need. It is called aslide hammer and is typically used in the automotive industry for diferent purposes on cars. www.autobodytoolmart.com/morgan-no-10-nokker-kit-pm-12795-108.aspx
After 30 years in heavy-construction industry, there is ONLY ONE product that is absoluelty guarenteed to free sticky, rusted, frozen parts... Kano-Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ Like the advertisements say, this stuff is GUARENTEED to penetrate 1 millionth of an inch! Soak the parts down, let it sit over night, heat/warm them up a little (even with a small, soldering-type propane bottle) and soak them down again, then let stand over night, and then gently massage back and forth with a hammer. The parts absolutely will come un-stuck!!! This stuff is AMAZING! You have to try it to believe it! There is NOTHING else like it! No other pentrating fluid even comes close! Good luck!
Oh, yeah, Kroil has a MONEY-BACK guarentee! https://secure.concentric.com/kanolabs.com/terms/termsofsale_silkroil.shtml It works or it's FREE!
When I bought my 773 G the quick releases were locked tight. I tryed a sledge and punch from top and bottom with no movement. I tried the zerks and they wouldn't take any grease. I changed them and still nothing. I used 2 cans of kroil oil over about a week. A little each evening and bounced them with a shop hammer a few licks. I removed the zerks and squirted the croil in them until rust stopped flowing out every couple of days. One afternoon I noticed wet spots under the bucket, and the kroil had eaten its way through. A few taps of the hammer and the bucket fell off. I greased it good and try to work them at least once a week just to make sure they don't freeze up again.
That seems like good stuff! On my 863 I had to do it the hard way, remove pins and bucket with bob-tach, then soak in an alkaline solution with electrical current applied. Then after a week I was able to pressure clean it and pour diesel in the gaps to dry it out. Plenty of taps and prying got it apart. Next time I will try this "kroil" stuff if I can get it.
I have used Kano-Kroil but have switched over to the PB Blaster.
fill a pool with wd40 and soak it for a week:drinkup
Pull the zerk fittings out of the back of the pin hold and soak in there with penetrating oil too. I have the opposite problem that maybe someone can help, my cat 226 bucket and breaker seems to shift around in plate, is that the plunger pins being worn, or the mounting plate. Some times when using breaker seems like the breaker is going to fall off. Also the arm pins are all loose, does the pin or bushing need to be changed, does this involve line boring? 2200 hard hours.
well if or when you get the bucket off.... take the bucket off at least once a week... I hate trying to remove a bucket by the hand lever ...that takes more than a little effort... The zerks do get forgotten about... because they get caked in mud.. I have a can of open gear lube I spray on parts like that.... plus the bucket pins if they start growling at me.. while waiting for a parts changer to replace a zerk...
It took a can of Kroil and some heat to release my stuck pins on my Case.My springs were rusted so bad you couldn't tell they were springs.Everything works fine now!