Good evening, I have an old 1997 Kobelco SK220LC Mark 4 excavator that would randomly go to an idle and flash a cpu code and alarm. Turns out that the 18 wire plug into the back of the kpss is making intermittent connections on some of the terminals. I cant seem to figure out any way to get new pins... The local specialized electrical shop couldnt help me even when i put the pin in their hand.... What do I do here ?
Obviously it’s an AMP connector. It’s not a Kobelco connector. Now measure the pin. Is it 1.5mm or 2.8mm ? Now we can figure out what series of AMP connector it is. It looks like a AMP MCP 2.8. Multicontact Power) sealed connector series. But, I don’t have one to measure, so that’s my best guess. AMP sold the rights to TE Connectivity. I think. What gauge of wire is that? Doesn’t matter. It’s probably a 16. 1-968857-1 Receptacle Terminal, 18 – 13 AWG, 1 – 2.5 mm² Wire, 2.8 mm [.11 in] Tab Width, Tin (Sn), Sealable, .8 mm [.031 in] Tab Thickness, AMP MCP 2.8. Easy Peazy. Pretty soon, women and children will be fixing heavy equipment. If that’s a 2.8mm, just purchase a kit from TE, from EBay or the Amazon. The dealer won’t help you. The parts store won’t help you. Your local specialized electrical store won’t help you. But, the HEF will help you. So, grab a chair and hang out for awhile. Tell us about your old hoe. But, I like your style. No ****-chat. Right to the point.
Look at that. Amazon of all places. You get the point. Even if my educated guess is wrong. Measure and look in the TE catalog. Maybe it’s a 1.5. IDK? I’m just a dirty old mechanic. Sometimes, I don’t shower. I fix old Kobelcos and make my money by the hour.
That pretty impressive of you to be able to identify which catalog the engineers at Kobelco used to design that machine from. Even more impressive that you provided the OP with a solution to his problem.
@Coaldust you appear to be right, the end width of the connector measures 2.8mm however I still cant find any kit that has a connector that looks the same as this connector that I have. Do i just buy a kit and try a few different ones and hope one type works ?
The connectors will likely look different, but you just need pins and receptacles.
Receptacles on eBay
Pins
...and the crimp tool.....and any removal tools make the job easier as well.
guys i cant repin the computer that this plugs into......?!!
Likely not. But you can re-pin the plug that connects to the computer. If the loose connection is on the pins/receptacles at the plug at the computer and not the numerous sketchy field repairs just downstream from the plug there a good chance re-pinning the plug will keep you going until something more expensive fails. Certainly worth a try. Is there any chance there's been moisture in that area? If so you may want to redo those butt crimps and check for corrosion. Several of them look like they were crimped with the wrong tool and an attempt was made to waterproof them with electrical tape...
i will end up going over all that but no from what ive been able to determine the problem is right at the plug terminals themselves, but i cant seem to find the exact female terminals that I have, that is my whole issue at the moment, figuring out which actual terminals i need for this plug/computer. There are so many different ones its nuts.
You need female sockets (not pins) for an "AMP seal" brand connector. It's written right there on the housing of the connector......
Yes I understand that but are there not multiple different connectors for THAT plug...
Do you mean sockets like the ones posted above by @Coaldust .? As far as I know there can be different socket part numbers. These are determined by the size//diameter of the wire that goes into the socket (wire gauge). The usual options are one type for 12-14 SWG wires and another for 16-18 SWG. The business end of the sockets that install into the connector are all the same. That is AFAIK.
Yes the female socket is what I meant, I apologize if I used the wrong terminology
I gave you the part number and two places where you can buy them. They will work. They might look slightly different because things have changed since the 90’s. You have nothing to lose. Don’t overthink it. I mean, we were wearing flannel and listening to grunge when that old hoe was new.
Rarely do the pins, whether flat or round, that are in the computer plug go bad, its the female sockets that typically fail from machine vibration or harness pulling stress on the connection. Makes the female terminal "open up" and not make a good connection. Seen it a ton of times on the AMP connectors for the proportional valves at Kobelco pumps.
Yup- couldn't agree more. I've field-repaired a few electrical harnesses, connectors, etc. by lightly bending the offending tab/pin back into making solid contact with a sharp pick or small screwdriver. And of course removing any corrosion as needed... The newer lever-locking or screw-in connectors are designed to prevent the bending of the pins/tabs when rocking the flat style connectors open or closed during repairs but they have their own issues too.
I ran across this chemical when I was teaching in the Ford ASSET program. Stabilant 22A and sold by NAPA as CE-1 Electrical Contact Enhancer and Motorola 11C80367E78. Maybe it’s snake oil, but Ford Service Training endorsed it. Especially helpful for fixing intermittent electrical connections with tiny micro pins on ECM connections. Ridiculously expensive.
I had to look up Stabalint on the interwebs. Supposedly it's some magical substance that isn't conductive by itself but then it becomes conductive under voltage just enough to help 'close' micro-gaps between contact pads that are supposed to touch... but it remains not conductive enough for cross-signaling across the gap between adjacent contact pads that are separate. Seems to work best by bridging the micro valleys and gaps from the uneven contact surfaces trying to touch in microelectronics and also reducing noise from vibrations and such. Pretty neat stuff in my opinion. And if Coaldust says so, it must be legit.
Yeah, isn’t that bizarre?