Hey everyone i bought a hitachi 120-2 last winter for 4,000 dollars which i thought was a smoking deal. at first inspection the machine fired right up the idle up funtions worked. i moved the boom around and it seemed to bog the machine down. the guy i was with said it has got to be fuel filters."buy it" he said. so i did one of the main reasons the people wanted to sell was because the machine had developed a new leak that was coming out of the middle of the undercarrage. they didnt elaborate on the bogging condition and said they just dealt with it. I got the machine home i went through the fuel system drained all fuel out of tank changed filters and cleaned the bango fitting to. no change. i then started working on fixing all the leaks the main one was the center joint. i dropped it out and rebuilt it for around 100 dollars. I also put a new hydraulic oil cooler. i fixed 3 other hoses and now have a machine that no longer pukes oil I then had a mechanic plug into it. unfortuanatly i wasnt there when he plugged in. he told me the pvc had no power. i replaced a 1 amp fuse and i got power to the pvc and it improved the machine alot but it still bogged mainly when you use a function fast or get close to the end of the cylinder. the mechanic also pointed out some butchering to the inner harness. i decided i would go ahead and replace both inner and outer harness's hoping this would solve my dash 2 blues. I also want to say that throughout this whole time i have been studying this forum like crazy. after the harnesses were replaced i noticed no diference machine still bogs under heavy hydraulics and its almost frustrating to run after running one that functions corectly. i have since then replaced the PVC, Pump sylonoids, angle sensor, and i plan to do DP sensor The mechinic i used said i should hold off on doing any more work or replacing any more sensors untill i plug in. unfortunatly it will be monthes if im lucky before he will be able to come plug in. i have been really considering buying a conversion harnesss to remove all electronics. not many reviews so i am a bit leary but it seems to me if i could remove electronics this machine would be perfect. so if any one has any insight in the conversion kits or any insight on what i should do or try next let me know i also want to say thankyou to all the posts that i have gotten good information off of.
This is some pictures of when I got this 120-2 and some things I’ve done, as well some work I’ve done with it
Hello, Welcome to HEF. In my opinion, I think if you want to repair (or rebuild) this machine, you should have a thorough understanding of how the hydraulic system of this machine works. Actually its principle of operation is also very simple. Anyway, you can download the technical documentation of this machine for reference here
I would like to restore this machine to its former glory. Not sure if tracing wiring is more productive than just getting rid of it all together
In my opinion, I think if you want to repair (or rebuild) this machine, you should have a thorough understanding of how the hydraulic system of this machine works. Actually its principle of operation is also very simple. Anyway, you can download the technical documentation of this machine for reference here HeavyEquipmentForums
or you can download EX120-2 technical manual directly here: http://www.mediafire.com/file/len6liz0wirx0bc/EX120-2+Technical+&+Workshop+Manual.pdf/file
Thank you sir I actually bought these manuals a while back but I appreciate the link. I have been trying to learn the ins and outs of the machine and I think I’ve come along way. But sometimes it feels like a uphill battle
Hello, I have an EX120-3, 1997 working perfectly with the conversion kit fitted. I don't know much about hydraulics tbh but I could send you pictures of the setup. Maybe the -2 is different from the -3, somebody else might know.
[QUOTE="Garter, Hey garter I would love to see some pictures of your setup on your machine I think the dash 3 is very similar. Also if you know what brand your conversion is would be helpful. Feel free to post pictures to this thread as I want this thread to become a place to get good reliable information. If you can’t post pics to this maybe you can message to me or if you want my email I could give you that
Fair enough, I'll post here, it might be helpful to others. Starting tomorrow if the rain holds off
Garter. Thank you very much. I am assuming you bought your machine with the conversion installed or did you have some one do the install ??
Bought with it installed, could probably locate the guy that did it. I would like to understand how it works as well, so maybe sharing on here will be a learning experience for me as well.
Cool. Looking forward to seeing pictures and it would be cool to get some information out of the guy that installed the kit. It could be a major eye opener to 120 owners world wide
I have recently been experiencing problems with my “throttle motor “. EC motor stepper motor which ever you prefer. Some times it work great other times doesn’t work at all it will fire up at a idle when I press the throttle up buttons it will actually start idling down until it dies. Also seems to be making some grinding noises. I am wondering if I can put a manual throttle on my machine or if it will effect anything. Some times it works great so just wondering if anyone has any advice. I like the idea of manual just for the fact of less chance of failing
Here are a few pics
And a few more. The conversion kit has no markings and was recently fitted. I know it was ordered from china and cost about 650 Euro here. Front control panel buttons are the only ones that work. Top computer is plugged in, bottom disconnected (don't know if this makes a difference). Speed is good on the machine. I checked the movements of bucket, boom, tracking etc against the technical manual and they are within range. Hand throttle is easy to use, only slight problem is that you need to remember to turn off key when finished as the panel lights are still illuminated and could drain battery. Hope this helps, if you need more details pics let me know.
Garter. I want to give you a big thanks for the pictures and the information I hope this will take some of the guess work out of buying a conversion kit for these 120s. I plan to buy one and I will post pictures of the install as well as post any issues I come across the way. Cheers
No problem, as I said if you need more detailed images just shout.
I just got a EX100-3 that may need the conversion kit but I haven't done any of the diagnostics yet. There is NO electrical control of the throttle and to even start it and I need to hold the pump throttle control with a wedge to set the speed. I ALSO HAVE ONE OTHER ISSUE I HAVEN'T HEARD ABOUT IN ANY POST. I don't have any electric control for track speed. It's fixed at slow speed. Is this part of the problem a conversion kit will fix? Your responses are appreciated.
so With your throttle control, conversion won’t fix. You can check the EC. Motor throttle motor to see if it’s getting power if it is make sure your throttle cable isn’t bound or seized. ?? And if your machine functions fine as far as not bogging when you use hydraulics I wouldn’t do the conversion. If everything works fine except throttle and track speed. I would try to track those issues down. If machine does bog and has other issues. Throw a manual throttle in and get a conversion kit on it
Thanks for your response. So far by jamming a screw driver between the pump throttle shaft & stop to speed up the engine, I seem to have proper hydraulic operation. Is the conversion kit mainly to replace the computer signals that maintain the proper pump stroke during a load and nothing about the throttle motor control? If so I see your point. I'll check those functions. Fortunately I have the books though their sometimes hard to follow. Need to get on this as it's starting to cool down here in Delta Jct. - Thanks again
Yeah your right there. I would suggest checking for power at throttle control. If there is power and nothing is working consider buying a new one. I think they are about 150 bucks on eBay. Or Friday parts.
Hi Garter, Do you mind sending the detailed instructions of the conversion kit regarding shims to [email protected] or [email protected] thanks in advance
This is the instruction for the conversion kit that I have been able to find. I haven’t installed my conversion yet. But I plan to soon
Haven’t been on in awhile and I just wanted to let everyone know that I did the conversion on my 120 today. After conversion I experience no bogging and plenty of power. I haven’t ran it for a long period of time but so far am very pleased. Conversion took about 3-4 hours and was fairly easy to do. Instructions are not great but good enough. I took some pictures of my work today here they are and cheers everyone that helped and gave me info and pictures it helped a lot
If anyone needs advice let me know I will be installing a manual throttle tomorrow and will add some pictures of that
Still and option for me. Still dealing with boom up. Thanks for pics. It does look pretty straight forward
Yeah after running machine a little I noticed that my stick in. Is very slow and sometimes can only do one function at a time can’t boom up at the same time. Thinking about putting more shims in conversion any input ?
"..stick in. Is very slow" If single action, It relate to "DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE CONTROL" to increase pump flow. "..can only do one function at a time can’t boom up at the same time". It relate to "PRESSURE COMPENSATION PROPORTIONAL SOLENOID VALVE" or we can say that is "FLOW SHARING PRINCIPLE".
So I ended up disconnecting my PVC completely which fixed the issue. My machine works as it should. No pvc and no pump electronics. It is working very well have used it for about 4 hours
So I’m thinking about replacing my bucket pin and bushings. I have a thumb so I’m curious on if I need to get a longer pin and how many bushings ? 6 2 on thumb 2 on bucket 2 on boom ?
So anyways I had a machinest look at my machine and is gonna build me a new pin. I have 6 new bushings coming for bucket stick and thumb. I also installed my manual throttle which was very easy to do and works great. Machine continues to work well with the conversion kit. Very happy
Do the gauges still work? Can you change the travel speed?
Travel speed doesn’t change. Fuel gauge and temperature gauge work. No hr meter but that was a issue before. It seems like when pvc was plugged in travel speed would change. But I had to unplug it to get stick in to function properly
So after running my machine for 10 hrs or so some or most of of the fittings on the conversion are leaking. Will keep you guys posted on what I do to fix it. If any one has any insight feel free to chime in
Are they just poor quality fittings? You still happy with the conversion?
I think that’s the jist of it. Cheap fitting cheap o rings. I broke one just tightening it. But absolutely I have been out ripping stumps and ripping rock. Machine runs great. And remember before conversion I couldn’t even hardly use machine without it bogging down.
Mine is running better than ever but it's a 790e deere only thing is pilot pump seems to be a little high on pressure and all functions work but if I boom in and bring stick in it bogs engine this is with two shims pvc isn't unplugged but I did pull fuse . should I just unplug?
Not sure I unplugged mine and it fixed the issue with not being able to stick in and boom up at same time. But mine wasn’t bogging the machine it was just very slow or would almost stop. If the fuse is pulled it should be same as in plugging
I have still been using my machine. I replaced all the fitting and hoses on the conversion and that fixed my leaking issue so off to work I go. I also equipped 120 with led lights all the way around. A stereo and a new belly pan. Happy digging my friends
Alright everyone. Machine has been working great operating great Although the other day my thumb got stuck closed. I replaced thumb sylonoid as well as my handle with a sure grip handle. Now I go to open thumb and it won’t open. Hose at the sylonoid jumps but no pressure to the cylinder. If I go to close thumb it works. So thumb is struck closed. Thinking it may be main relief for thumb part of valve body. Anyone have any insight. I’m screwed right now I have a bunch of brush to haul and I need my thumb to work
Pilot control pressure getting to the auxiliary spool caps on the main control valve?
Just purchased the conversion kit. On the same road as you now. My harness was shot, so new one to clean it up. But ended up with pretty much same symptoms as your machine. I might hit you up for instructions on the kit
Get your thumb working?
Yes I had a mechanic come out we checked the spool in the valve body then we’re gonna check the line to see if anything had gotten in it when the mechanic realized my open side hose was going to my return so when I changed my thumb sylonoid I mixed up 2 hoses. 600 bucks for him to tell me I messed up. Oh well I’m up and ripping again and making money. Yeah let me know if you need a hand you will wish you had done conversion sooner
Glad it’s working. Conversion is done. And took your advise and had new hoses made and fitting ready to roll. Blew through 3-4 o-rings on the crazy long fitting that goes into the valve body. Got it replaced and then one goes on the new block. But other than that fine. Still issues with boom up, so it tells me I have to do some cleaning/inspection of shuttle valves /spools
Did you disconnect your pvc? My machine was really slow when I tried to stick in and boom up at same time. I unplugged pvc and it seemed to fix my issue
I did disconnect the PVC. No change. Hammering a trench for my auto mechanic. It’s tedious to push down to go up, but getting it done. Several here have stated i probably have a sticking valve somewhere. So get this ditch done and will start pulling it apart.
Anyone that can help with Ex200-3 conversion pictures instructions? I am struggling to get the connection right and get it to work. What is the concept of the shims? More shims at the top against more shims at the bottom
Hi southeast savage. I have the same machine with same type issues. I’m about to install the conversion kit also. Having trouble figuring out where the one line that goes toward the valve body goes. Do you have any pictures of that area? Thank you
Hello Mike, I can send you a picture of mine tomorrow if you want, it's a 120-3. Don't think it makes a difference. Post your email if you need it.
Garter yes sir I’d appreciate that. I’m at a standstill at the moment and dunno where it goes My email is [email protected] Any pictures would help. Again thank you
I'll sort a picture for you in the morning
Actually theres a picture on page 1 of this thread I uploaded that shows the connection, maybe you saw it. I'll take another tomorrow if it's not clear enough.
View of connection from kit to valve chest.
Hi all, Joe here, have an ex120-2 with conversion kit fitted. Boom up stops when dipper is coming in and no power to track up hill since. Possibly not the same hyd power in general. Have unplugged hyd brain, no difference. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks in advance.
у кого подробная инструкция Всем привет есть ли у кого нибудь хитачи ex200-2 пытаюсь поставить комплект для преобразования есть ли
So with this kit installed does the Machine travel at the normal working speed
What’s up Bo I have a question if u can help me in the first picture where does the short thick spring go … I’m at a loss here any help will be greatly appreciated
I just got a conversion kit for my hitachi ex 120-3. Can someone send me a manual for this. They did not send one with the kit.
Been awhile since been on here. Things shut down for us as prices and availability of materials put a kink in my projects. Thought I'd update a bit on the EX120-2 My slow boom up ended up being a "fettering" of the valve spool. The spool itself had developed a lip on it, probably since it sat for who knows how long before I bought it. The boom operated as it should. I have the conversion kit on, and it works flawlessly. The machine works really nice. Currently working on fuel system. I've been pulling the small screen on the banjo bolt a few times, finally pulled the main fuel filter and it was junk. primed the system with the manual pump and started to crack fittings on the separator and fuel filter. still a no start. Went to crack the far injector, and the bolt snapped. UGGGGG. So new injector in the mail. Order a new separator as well. Will replace the rubber supply line while in there. I've read some about another plastic strainer on the bottom nut under the fuel pump? That one seems like a bear. Also had the swing motor seal go out, yeah, So adding it to the list. Was going to do the sleeve while in there and its was $600 at PAPE, so no sleeve unless it's toast. All in all, still happy with the machine. It's 30ish yrs old and really who knows the maintenance thats has or has not been done. Also picked up a Takeuchi TL230 series 2. Really happy with this track loader. loads of power. Hopefully I'll be able to add some to here, appreciate all the help I've received.
Thanks for the update JD. I've been researching information about the manual pump conversion kit to bypass the PVC control electronics on these EX-120 machines. I own a tired JD490E with a FabTek tree harvester conversion. After 2yrs+ I'm getting tired of spending time and money chasing solenoid, sensor, and wiring gremlins. I did have the main hydraulic control valve rebuilt, so it's in good shape. I have also read over every Tech manual I can get my hands on (both Hitachi and John Deere). I just purchased a conversion kit from SINOCMP recently and plan to install it soon. Do you have any advice or suggestions regarding the kit installation, such as # of shims used or control valve adjustments needed afterward? Did you unplug you PVC completely? I'm glad to here the conversions working well on your machine. I've read your earlier threads regarding the conversion and found them helpful. Thanks for sharing that information. Thanks, Brian K.
If I remember right, the diagram that came with it had a breakdown of shims. Have you pulled the bottom plate off yet?
Here is the table that shows the number of shims used based on your machine (490e=Ex120)
And here is where the rings go. It confused me as it says “gaskets” but it’s rings/washers And then depending on pump life? I’d how many washers you put on. I left mine at “stock” . I maybe will add 1 to each location down the road
Thanks for the diagrams. I just took a look at the instructions and your chart and it appears they recommend two B's and two C's for the stock EX120 kit. I'm currently examining the kit and making sure how it all fits together. It appears the one port on the bottom of the block is left partly uncovered. The surface on the pump casing doesn't appear large enough to cover it?
I’m not by my machine currently. I might be able to run out there this afternoon, if not tomorrow morn. I’ll take a pic or video of how it’s on there
Took a run out to machine. Yes the main valve of the kit does over hang on the pump top. Here is the plug placement for bottom of kit valve, and pics of what it looks like
Thanks again JD. I'll post my progress and results. Hopefully the kit will work well.
Keep me in the loop. I’m absolutely no anything on this so need to learn more
The installation of the manual pump conversion kit seems to be working well on my 490E. I purchased the kit from SINOCMP (EX100-2 EX100-3 EX120-2 EX120-3 EX200-2 Conversion Kit for Hitachi Excavator with English Installation Instruction) which says it was manufactured in S.Korea. Payed $579 for the kit. My only complaint about the kit is that it did not include the "T" fitting required, so I had to order that. It should be noted that the threads in the casting & blocks are BSPP. The casting also had some small defects that were visible in the bore (see photo). I installed the kit with two "B" (4470236) and two "D" 4604530 shims which I interpreted as the baseline configuration from the chart. This allows you to add or remove shims based on the machines performance. Installation was pretty straight forward once I had the proper T-fitting. I did have to remove the O-ring from the System Relief Valve and install it on the kits counter part since it wasn't supplied. Once the kit was completely installed I added hydraulic fluid to the tank and blend air from the pump housing. I have been running the machine with PVC unit unplugged. The machine runs better than I expected. The hydraulic functions react plenty fast, and heavy loading doesn't stall or bog the motor down at all. I also installed a manual throttle cable and removed the old EC motor & sensor unit.
Below are a few more installation photos; If I encounter any problems with the kits performance, I will make sure to post them. Brian K.
Where did the heavy spring go on conversion?
Brian k , I am having issues with my 490e conversion. Do u have any more pics on how u plummed yours? Mine is slow boom and stick fictions. Any help is so appreciated
The heavy metal spring was not used. Attached is a photo of what parts I have left over.
I'm not sure I recommend this, but before I installed the kit I used compressed air to push the spools out of the housing just to inspect and lube everything. I used some REM oil on re-assembly to make sure everything was moving and not sticking. BE CAREFUL if you take it apart, and hold your hands over the bores so the parts don't go flying. And note how the parts come out.
Before I placed the block onto the pump, I had to make sure the spring end (the long spring) was pressed over the boss on the bottom of the internal spool. I believe this keeps the spring centered and upright. To do this I had to remove the spool since I couldn't get the spring end pressed over it any other way. I then carefully lowered the block (and spring) onto the pump housing.
Here is how I plumbed mine. View attachment 285366
Thank you so much , I'll try those things and see what happens.. I had the same left over parts
I can’t open the attachment
How do I open this
Did you get it working properly?
Is that the only shim you put on the plunger? I put two on top and two on the bottom as I thought that's what the instruction stated for stock. I am still experiencing bogging issues. thanks
The Tee fitting that you are speaking of, is that only because you are running a Deere ? Or do the 120-2's need to have that also ?
I am looking to put a conversion kit on my ex200-2. There are a lot of companies selling them on the Internet. Is there one that works with English instructions? Is it a good direction to go?
I found over a dozen offers for the conversion kit. Are they all the same, or one that you would recommend
The installation of the manual pump conversion kit seems to be working well on my 490E. I purchased the kit from SINOCMP (EX100-2 EX100-3 EX120-2 EX120-3 EX200-2 Conversion Kit for Hitachi Excavator with English Installation Instruction) which says it was manufactured in S.Korea. Payed $579 for the kit.
Thank you for your response. It's great to hear from you. I am currently in touch with Sinocmp. While reading some posts, I came across a few comments mentioning that the kit requires a tee fitting, and some have reported that the fitting and hoses provided in the kit were of poor quality and needed replacement. There seem to be many companies selling similar kits, perhaps of varying quality.
Hello, I am going to be installing this kit on an EX100-2 this week. I’m looking for the appropriate throttle lever and cable but not having much luck. Looked on eBay and google but options seem limited. Can someone please send me a link or ideas? Thanks in advance!
I have a John Deere 490E. I bought a throttle lever cable from Napa. It has the knob with the push button and you can turn knob for fine adjustments. It was $120. Length was 15’. I have not installed it yet but looks like it will work well. I am interested to hear how the kit works out.
Hello everyone. thanks for all the information. My kit did not come with instructions and no response from the amazon seller so this really helped! I believe I have it set up but still having issues with it being too fast and stalling the engine, I have tried every shim configuration even tried removing all but it doesn't change the pump output. From the youtube instructions I found it shows a hose going into the case of the pump which I don't see in the diagram photo posted here.
Hi M38man. Did you get your machine straightened out? I just finished up putting this kit on my 100-2. Used the manuals and Pics the guys have posted here. Manual throttle, PVC disconnected. My boom, stick, swing and bucket functions all work well with no bogging and plenty of power, in fact kinda fast. My concern is my travel speed. This thing is stuck in high speed. On flat ground it’s fast, going downhill it’s stoopid fast! Uphill it falls on its face and bogs the engine almost to stalling out. Anyone have a suggestion To get back to Turtle mode? I don’t need Rabbit travel speed at all, it shakes so much all the windows are going to fall out and the body panels will follow. I have two B and Two C shims installed. Went that route figuring my engine is pretty tired. Thanks for any input!
Hi Rob. I didn’t get it straightened out yet. Looks like we’re having the same issues. I finally got an answer from the amazon seller but from their response I don’t think they even understand how a hydraulic system operates. I have been trying different shim configurations but nothing seems to change the pump displacement. I would like to find a schematic for this system. Please keep me updated if you find a solution. Thanks Brian
I’ve only run with two b’s and two c’s. I’m going to pull them out and try it. I don’t grasp what the shims actually do. There’s a whole lot of voodoo in there. The instructions mention engine age/power/wear relating to the number of shims but doesn’t expain it in detail. I’m glad it’s gotten me at least running, it was 28k of scrap metal. And where I’m at, we have to PAY $.10 a pound to get rid of it! Hopefully someone will circle back and clue us in. Thanks for the input. I’ll let you know what I find later today.
Hey Brian! Sorry I didn’t get back on. Busy weekend. So I played with the machine the last few days. I’m currenty running three B’s and three C’s and things seem better. You mentioned a hose you couldnt find a place to land on the case? I’m working on an EX100. I had to remove: the speed solenoids, the plate with the tube going down to a connection to the left behind the pump, and, behind the speed solenoids there was a plug to remove and hook to and plug next to the left side of the data tag to remove and tap into. I’ll try to post some pics of my setup. In short , I’m making progress!
where did you get the manual throttle kit?
I tried eBay, what I received was junk. Amazon didn’t have much and my local parts houses weren’t much help. I rolled the dice and ordered this one from Friday Parts. It shipped quickly from China arrived in about four days. I went with the 12’, was easy to install and works well. Not as skookum as Garters appears to be but I think I will do.
Rob, should I try 3 B and 3 D shims on my ex120-2? Pump is killing engine. I thought I had to go the opposite direction in terms of deleting shims. Or cutting spring. Thanks
Good morning Rob! I have 3B and 3C shims in mine, didn’t cut any springs. When I initially put mine in I had 2/2 and my machine was too fast and would bog under load. I tried every combination possible and about gave up. Last attempt I hooked up the PVC, put in 3/3, started it and then shut it down and unhooked PVC. Whatever that did, my functions and travel are now somewhere between Rabbit and Turtle. It has plenty of power to dig and travels up a steep incline well. Something to watch for: in the instructions they call out putting grease or something on the piece that looks like a chess Pawn (goes vertically up into the head of the main body of the kit) on top of the long spring. Mine had fallen out of the bore and while fighting springs and flowing oil, I missed it and threw the body back on the pump. The “chess piece“ looking thing fits up in there even if it’s not seated correctly. Machine will run but kit isn’t working as designed. Prior to putting this kit in, I had a 28k yard art that was headed for scrap. The machine wouldn’t even lift its own boom without bogging/dying. This kit was the machines last hope and I about gave up in the middle of trying to get this to work. Takes some patience and all the good info others have added on this thread. I’ve got a couple videos of my machine running with the kit I’m trying to post on here. It’s a beat up old machine that I used to develop my property. I had figured on having to pay to have it hauled off, now it appears I may be able to pass it on to someone that can use it. Earlier i posted a pic of all the parts I had left over, that’s where my configuration currently is. Good luck, keep us posted.
Thank you very much for the reply. I will try that and get back to you.
3 and 3 is not working for me. Still wants to bog down when using the tracks. I'm thinking of first trying 0 and 3. Then try cutting the spring a little if that doesn't work
Could you send this onto me please I can’t open it in thread
Hopefully you can open. Not sure if it will be very helpful.
Hey what order did the springs go and which piston has to go in I have 2 different ones and 3 springs but no clear idea on how they actually go
Where did you get the throttle cable and can you show a picture of the connection at the step motor and how you routed it
I can’t seem to get mine to stop bogging down when I stick out or bucket out any ideas?
Hello all. Does anyone in this group have the parts they took off to complete the conversion. I’m looking for the upper and lower stopper plates. Also need the pipe that runs from pilot pump to upper stopper plate. Thanks guys.
That a Miller trailer?
hi Garter do you know where to get a fitting for this long pipe to top of valve block , i got a fitting from o mara parts in longford and they told me to take out dp sensor and plumb it in there. thanks mike
hi Mike. I’m not garter but a have that fitting you need. I’m looking for the parts that are taken off for the conversion. Like the upper and lower stopper plates.
Cool , ya have the bottom plate and metal hose and top plate in my shed Where you based ?
Всем доброго времени суток! Может кто подскажит, столкнулся с такой проблемой. Установил комплект на hitachi ex200-2 согласно инструкции. При нагрузке глохнет двигатель. Выяснилось, что насос не уменьшает количество подоваемого масла при пиковых нагрузках. Подскажите пожалуйста, как отрегулировать регулятор?
Your machine Hitachi 120-2, the hydraulic pump coupling buffer pad is estimated to be replaced
Hi. I did finally get the upper and lower stopper plates thanks to Travis at venture hydraulics. I removed the manual kit and returned the pump to original.
This is a great discussion on the hydraulic conversion- judst read through the wohle thing and now know not to waste my time chasing the speed change not working! I've got an EX200-2 that came with the hyd controller and overall the machine works very well. She's pretty leaky between the pump and controller, though. There was a pile of rtv type sealant oozing out of it and not doing the job, nor would I expect it to. So, I pulled the controller and find there is no o-ring/seal at the small port. It doesn't look like an o-ring will work and I'm wondering what the original intent was for sealing this. The pump has fluid oozing out of this hole while it's been sitting open, so it's not like this port is dry. We've got a few screenshots of bits of the instructions, could someone share the whole thing? I tried SINOCMP for a download , but they don't send it till you buy it. TIA!!!
nrath. I look in my files for a print out. But I converted my machine back to factory controls successfully.
That's an interesting direction as most go the other way. I can appreciate that it would be nice to operate the Ex with the features Hitachi intended, particularly the work modes. Losing travel speeds is a bit of a bummer, but livable. That said, it also seems to me like actuating those shouldn't be too hard to sort out as they have to operate ultimately from solenoids that could be powered from manual switches. It would be nice to understand what prompted people to make the hyd conversion as most only talk about doing it and not so much the "why". I figure it's broken electronics, either the PVC or some sensors being a recurring issue. I can also really appreciate doing a full manual conversion on it and not having ANY electronics as a few others have done.
in the early 90’s hitachi put out a tech note admitting the power coming from the pvc that powers the high speed solenoids would “drop out” for unknown reasons. The pvc negatively switch’s those solenoids and that side of the circuit is not an issue. I fixed mine with maybe 1$ of wire and an inline Fuse to the solenoids.
There is a person online in Malaysia doing it