First post, my topic dont seem to be discussed... EX100 -3 1995, 9000h the hydraulics in the levers seem to pulsate, and the whole machine starts to jump, somtimes you can fel that the levers looses pressure if you are using all functions, turning arm and boom and when pressur comes back (it just falls out for a super short millisecond) as you understand it will be a war between what will hget the oil and its starts to be wery unsmooth. just relese the handles and start over. The pressure to the pilotcircut is about 45bar the main pressure is 300bar if i remeber correct. +-. changed out the acumulator for the pilot circut (it was dead) to a new with 25 bar gas, it seems to be 5% worse with a working accumulator. that is just a feeling, hard to say. been serching youtube, and it looks like all 100-3 is a little bit unsmooth in the hydraulics, but i dont know... More rpm, wors it gets. Does anybody hawe any clue where to search? is the 25bar accumulator to low pressure? it shall be about 0,75 x pilotpressure generally in that kind of setup of other machines... Excuse me for my missspelling, do not speak english normally, lives in the same country where thay say that Santa lives (Finland). /Jonny
Flow test your pilot pump. When the get worn out they'll still pump pressure but the flow drops off.
Yep. Thats a thing that i have thought about. But i cant really find what nubmbers it should be anywhere on anything... does someone have what i should get when testing stuff? Pressure and flow...
Welcome to Hef Jonny ! Is this something that just started? Any main pilot system hoses been replaced lately?
bought the machine for about 1 year, its been "bad" ever since. did not really noticed when i purchased it... you need to have some load on to the machine. nothing is replaced. acually i tried to find a flowmeter yesterday, but where i can get on of those is for me unclear still. But as i mentioned in my first post, when i been watching on the tube, they all seem to be a little bit harch in the movements, and as time flies you know how to hold tha handles and when to calm down so it dosnt start to jump like a compactor on the ground... i dont really know what to look for, #lost
With those machines things can get complicated real quickly. Diagnostic software is a must for those units. Maybe post a video of the jerkiness?? You need @LACHAU to chime in.
Kind of hard with the phone between the knees... https://youtube.com/shorts/dEIQNTHoBJA?feature=share Dr.zx ordered and waiting.
Yesterday i realized that the A-sensor is broken, new ordered (3weeks), it was 5v no matter how i tunrned the sensor. also no ohm diffrence between any cables. Both solenoids on the pump has about the same ohm (16 isch ohm). What i dont understand is that the machine works pretty good, its "slow" not that slow that everybody elses is when they have problems, and it works but it dont have anough flow in the pipings. it has power. and the flow seems to be following the rpm, so my thoughts are: has the previous owner swaped the axle to the swash plate and then just left it there? Does any body know what angle/pressure/behaiviour it becomes when its turned 180deg? i mean the plate with 4 screwes with the pin to the swashplate? The hydraulick doesnt load up that much, it loads up. since i dont know how a properly working machine is to be its hard to know how a machine from 1995 should be.
volt on meter, bland to black, red to red. key on. engine off.
There are 3 wires to that sensor. One will have 5 volts all the time, one is the return (ground), and the third wire is the wire that should change when you turn the sensor.
Yep, the other (not ground) did not read anything.
Good day If your drain or return connection has become obstructed (Blocked filter) it can result in this type of issue. Kind regards Uffex
It was the same before and after filter change. nothing in any filter. Does anybody have a repairmanual that they are willing to share? i have one repair manual, but it doesnt really cover much motre than how to take the engine apart. I would really apriciate that, hitachi ex 100-3, [email protected]
Hello, I have a few manuals and have the same problem with my 120-3 although it's on a conversion kit, I will send you what I have.
Does someon have dr.zx that works (win 10), got it on mail here the other day, but the cd was faulty, or say, the program did not work.
got new a-sensor yesterday, assembled it and adjusted to 4.4v, machine did run pretty nice for a while( it was raining and the fan in the cab is crap) after about 30min it felt harsh in movment again. this morning i tried to see what settings the a sensor had, 0.0v. ?!? yes it was a ebay sensor. have read the ebay sensor is crap, but, it worked a while... and i got steady 5v in, so can it really be bad? erth thru the harness (a sensor harness) and + is 5v, it means that both are present!? but the signal cable is 0.0v
the altenator is replaced a while ago (not me), what should i have ate the batteries when running at idle? 27.6v? if higher, could that be a issue? searching all posibilities now...
It should be around 27.5V at idle. If you are hitting 29.5V or higher at any rpm that would be cause for concern. Some of our newer machine's don't set a code until 33V. In my opinion, that is way too high. Also check for AC voltage at the alternator output (at fast idle and all loads on). If it exceeds 0.5V AC then you would have a bad diode. Stray AC voltage and electronics don't play nice together.
messured the voltage at the batteries today, got 29.5v at idle. both the boxes heart beat is 1/sec, all sensors are ok except A-sensor who broke again (ebay). the a sensor gets steady 5v all time. why did the ebay sensor break? crap quality or?
So long as it does not go over 30 I can live with that. Did you check AC voltage? How are the batteries? That means they are working as they should. eBay says it all.
Have not had chance to test the AC voltage yet. will do. Batteries are quite new, say 2 years, and they seem to be at same output and in range (dont remeber numbers but i did not recall that it was somthing to be concerned about) Ebay says it all, yep, needed to try, $30 against 975€(0vat)... one more in the air, to try.
my dp sensor, tried to adjust it, but i need to give it a light hit to get it down to 0.4v. Can i take that one apart? is there a spring inside or how does it work? If i tries to lift boom, arm in and bucket in/up. when the arem is almost straight down, the bucket stop. there is not enough oil flowing. Took the solenoids on the pump apart, could not see anything that was bad. My thoughts are now to the DP sensor... it reads and it does stuff. but. Here at 27sec, you see: Its conected to a 5v powerspply
That voltage needs to be a steady 0.4 volts. Did you ever try getting the blink codes from the PVC?
Yes, but the thing is, its not posible to unscrew so i get down to 0.4, it stops comming out at about 0.55v. like the spring inside is donne. if i tap it it will be podible, but if i screw it in and back out, it will stay at 05v isc. And with that said, its a problem. need to see if i can get it running, take it apart or whteva. Tried to get the blink codes, no sucess. connetct the 2 to the right with the lock clip up, key on? no codes. just once/sec. Trying to get my newly aliexpress drzx to work tomorow. did find a driver today that sounded promising.
if its adjusted say 0.7v, what will that do? and the otherway, 0.2v?
My opinion, get a "good" Dp sensor. The "Dp", "A" and "P" sensors are the most important to controlling pump displacement. Those sensors need to be spot on for the hydraulics to work properly. Also see if you can get the DrZx working. Best way to monitor things. Maybe start a conversation with LACHAU. He has knowledge and information most of us cannot supply on those units. Correct the right 2 terminals with the lock up. Turn key on after inserting the clip. Higher the voltage the slower the hydraulics
Lets start over. I originally was supplying specs for this thread and it has ended up all over the map. What is the exact operational complaint? Slow hydraulics? Jerky hydraulics? Aggressive hydraulics? Has engine fast idle speed been checked and confirmed with a tachometer? 2460 +/- 60 Has pilot system pressure (spec 52 bar) and main hydraulic system pressure (spec 350 bar) been checked and adjusted to spec? Track cycle time checked? Measured with one of the tracks raised and from a running start and time it for 3 revolutions. Do both sides. It is checked in fast travel mode, engine in P mode and work selector in the general mode with the auto-idle off. (EX100-3 spec 14.5 +/- 2 seconds, EX100M-3 spec 19 +- 3 seconds) Definitely need to establish if there are codes or not. If as stated you have constantly changing numbers on your sensors then either you need to get quality sensors or you may have wiring issues (or both). Hitachi's do not have a good track record for wiring. Answer the above questions and let's hope LACHAU chimes in.
Sorry. Got a new oem a sensor now. But as you said the dp senor is not to spec. The main issue is loss of flow in the stystem, its not possible to use all functions at the same time, bucket arm boom... Yes posible to use but not responding as they should. To me its clear that its not swash enough. All functions works, speed about thewhere it should be(one function at time) but multiple fuctions is a problem.. Tested about all cables to pvc today to rule them out. I need to figure out this dp senor thing and also to get this drzx running. Went dark to erly today. Yes, when tesged pressure, if i remeber correct, pilot 45 and rest 310bar.
I agree.
Okay, have not solved the DR.ZX issue, seems to be something with the win palm program, do not find any options to choose EX100. BUT. I have managed to go thru a lot of things and found out that as soon as i use LIFT BOOM it starts to hesitate in the hydraulics and normaly get a "jumpy" movment between bucket arm boom. If i use all functions except boom up its smooth. I also found that the pressure switch for boom is broken (who explains the auto idle not work when lift boom), its next to the lever pattern "gearbox", block with pilot hoses, its there right against the boom pressure sensor. and a new is ordered. will take a while... and this switch (on/off) if i put a jumpwire it should do the trick but it doesnt. So my thoughts are to take the boom solenoid thing out and see if its something interesting there. Does it sound wise? or shall i take something else apart? as mentioned, if you just leave boom up function out, it works great as far as i can understand.
At this point I am going to back out and defer to @LACHAU . These machines need to be "spot on" electrically or they won't work correctly. The only way to efficiently check these units for proper electrical operation is with diagnostic software, otherwise it all just a guessing game.
True story. but in the long wait for a new DR.ZX prgram i just need to figure out all posible things that can be the issue.
Have not donne anything to the machine lately, just been upset. BUT yesterday i found out things that i need to discuss. Its not a big diffrence between cold and warm machine, a slight worse when warm. About 2months ago we messured the pilot pressure to 45bar (should be 52) but close to where it should be. The nitrogen bladder is new with 25bar, if you use the machine 20min, shut it off then you have about 4 tries to let off pressure before nitrogen accumulator is empty, but yesterday after 3hour of use i only had a small amount of pressure in the accumulator to relese the pressure from functions. If my pilot pump is worn, it will be worse with warm oil, and the pressure will be less. Need to adjust pressure to see what happens yes, but before i figure out schim size, what do you expert think, pump worn or pressure relifvalve worn/broken? The temperature is about -2 celcius here during night and maximum +10 celcius during day this time of year.
its been winter here so not that much has happend but some things has cleared. i have narrowed it down to ARM IN is the issue, if boom up and arm in is both used at the sam time, it seems to not give enough flow for the arm. when i stop all other functions, it will take the arm mowment about 0.5meter( 2 foot?) and it will speed up. if i just move the arme its fast in and out, but when boom up is activated it will not have sufficent flow to the arm. will put a new DP sensor in to morrow just to test, a ebay DP, just to try.
I would suspect either the Arm In Pressure Sensor, or the Arm Proportional Solenoid. Hopefully @LACHAU will shed some light on this.
I did take the arm proportional valve out as far as polible. I got the upper part and the "slide"? Out,not the tube looking thing that is in the housing. Nothing obvious wrong.