My buddy has this machine. I think its a 93 model maybe a tad newer. The other day it started messing up on him. The machine will start but will not idle up. When they get the machine reved up they hydraulics are really slow and you can tell somethings not right Here's a video of what its doing. any Idea's on what the problem may be? he tried putting another computer on it and that didn't work, although the computer he got was used and could have been bad as well. The video YouTube - Hitachi with electronic problem
sound like you have a load sensor not working .What is the machine serial number ? I can look up the schematic for this mechanic.I have the Hitachi manuals
Thanks man here is the # 147-67506 ex200lc-2
I would check the batteries and alternator aswel, i have seen things like this happen when there is not enough power (voltage) to work the electrical funcions! Just a thought! CPS
It sounds like the power demand screen is blocked, this is a union screwed into the main valve block with a smallish pipe hooked in to it, the filter is built into the union and near impossible to clean out giving a good result, dont be tempted to pierce a hole in the screen as it just causes damage, if you could post a pic of your valve block I would be happy to point out the union, they are not a costly item and need replacing after about 6'000 hrs usualy. tctractors
Did that fix the problem? I have a mechanic I could ask.
aint looked at it yet, we spent all day today looking at new machines haha
you have a pvc problem. ask -3Doc about this problem he can help you. changing the the pvc controller will not automatically solve the problem. you must check all the wiring continuity for all the sensors and check the sensors if they are good or bad. e.g. DP sensor, pressure sensor, angle sensor, rpm sensor, high speed solenoid. i can supply you bnew PVC if you want.
I have the exact same problem with my 94 EX200LC-2. It will make an attempt at the functions but thats it. The light on our PVC is not on as well which lead us to beleive it was the PVC, we sent it to an electronics place and had it tested and everything was fine. We plugged it into another machine and the light came on, so we moved on to the wiring, but theres continuity, all the right wires have power and grounds, and all the fuses are fine. Any other suggestions?
test all your sensors and solenoids. angle, pressure, rpm, DP sensor, and pump displacement solenoid. check the resistance.
The Dr. Ex also wont comunicate with my machine to diagnose the problem. How do you test the solenoids and sensors?
With the machine TURNED OFF,disconnect all of the sensors feeding the PvC. Turn the machine on and check the LED on the PVC,to see if it is flashing now. If it is,turn the machine OFF and plug one sensor back in. Turn the machine ON and check the led. When you find the sensor that makes the LED go out,there's your problem....these PVC would shut down entirely to protect themselves instead of giving you a code. You'll notice how I was pretty clear about turning the key off and on.....never disconnect or connect any sensor or ec motor on this vintage machine with the power on.....recipie for electrical disaster,or at least a blown out PVC FWIW, I'll bet it's one of your pump pressure sensors giving you grief.
my hydrolics are very weak like the high speed selenoid is keeping the flow down. the machine will idle up and the ec and pvc have red flashing lights when i turn on the key. when i turn of theunit and unplug the high speed selenoids the machine has full hydrolic power but too much unless i am in constant motion in multiple directions. the pressure sensor has been replaced and continuity checked all is good. what is the resistence of the selenoids supposed to be becuse i think they might be the problem because they are not clicking when i start the machine and function the hydrolics. however i didnt check the continuity to the selenoids but they must be getting power because when they are unplugged they open up wide and when they are plugged in they close up tight. please help i don't know what to do
oh yeah the machine is also a 92 ex200lc-2 grey market hoe
I have a very similiar problem with my 1997 Deere 690 E LC. Works fine part of the time, then will go into a slow motion mode on every function - dig, swing, travel forward or backwards. The higher you rev the motor, the slower it goes. Problem comes and goes, sometimes several times in a day. May last 10 minutes, may last 2 hours. Deere checked all pressures and sensors, all check out fine. Hydraulic filters are new and oil is fresh. New pump too. Seems electrical to me, but have no idea how to check if it is the computer and can find no one who can offer any assistance on the computer either. Any one have any suggestions? Thanks
Your throttle linkage is worn out. There is also a ball bearing on the throttle control that you will find has a flat spot worn into it...fix that too. Put your machine at high idle and pull the throttle lever to the high idle stop with a bungee....Ill bet it runs just fine if you do that
Thank you for the info. I will definiately check that out this weekend and try the bunge. When you say "put the machine at high idle" what exactly do you mean? Is that the setting just above the lowest idle position, or is that full throttle? Is this something that requires a Deere mechanic, or is this an easy fix? Throttle linkage and throttle control with the ball bearing all one unit? Sorry for so many questions. Just want to get the right info so I can finally get this thing fixed. Thanks again for any info you can provide.
masseymgr, We had a 690E & at one time had a similar problem with inconsistent performance, was very frustrating-ended up being the water/fuel seperator filter was in need of replacing. Was an easy fix. Hope yours is as well.
We also had to have our throttle linkage replaced at about 6000 hrs. Was not running properly in the "modes". This helped the machine in that perspective. It really sounds to me like a fuel problem similar to the one I previously mentioned.
Zaxis, thanks for the additional info. I have already replaced both the fuel filter and the fuel/water seperator. No change in performance. Checked governor linkage today. Seems to have a slight catch in it, but not alot. Ran machine, started out fine, went into "slow mode" again for a while, then came out of it and ran fine for 3 hours. Guess I will call Deere and price gov. linkage and anything else that goes with it and hope for the best. Anyone want to buy a Deere 690 E LC??? This thing is trying my patience and killing my productivity.......................
purchased a Hitachi PC120LC-3 - was wondering if anybody out there knows how to switch the boom to the right control and the stick to the left. Right now its the opposite.
was wondering if anyone ever switched controls over. Just bought at Komatsu PC150LC-3 and would like to switch the boom to the right and the stick to the left. Right now its the opposite. Any ideas how to do this>??
Zaxis and cuttting edge - - thanks so much for the help. I checked all throttle linkage and it appeared fine, but the bearing that the throttle acuator pushes against had several very worn spots on it and did not turn freely. A $6.00 bearing from my local bearing supply house seems to have solved the problem. Have run machine several times since bearing replacement with no apparent issues. Thanks again for the help. Massymgr
Rob Sime I am pretty sure I have a pdf drawing of the pilot lines you need to switch.Their are four lines that need to be done .I will post a link on here for you to down load.
Rob Sime here is the drawing of the pilot line out of the book for a PC150-3Download this link http://www.4shared.com/photo/cLJ-8EBK/IMG_4697.html I hope this helps you out.
Rob Sime here is the drawing of the pilot line out of the book for a PC150-3Download this link http://www.4shared.com/photo/cLJ-8EBK/IMG_4697.html You need to switch the boom to were the stick and stick to boom Mark your line before you take them off.And know what port you took them off of .A digital photo is a big help if thing get mess up .You know were came from . I hope this helps you out.
why won"t the dr. ex comunicate with my hitachi ex200-2 i replaced the 2 computers and new wiring harness from cab to engine
EX200LC-2 starts runs but wont operate any controls. it feels like it wants to, but it almost feels like it is engaging to move the delimber or boom but it moves 1-2 feet and stops. the tracks wont move they feel like there going to but don't. it feels like it is not getting enough power to move the machine or like there is a break stuck on. any help would be appreciated. this has a Denharco delimber head on it. and i have both manuals but this is confusing to say the least. we have replaced the $8000 computer and it still wont move
this a repost in another thread for a start. This seems to be a problem for is a lot of people out there!! I am a little overwhelmed by all the questions about pump controls. I will try to explain how the system works and the most common problems that can cause the -2 blues as I call them! There are 4 sensors that monitor the system and tell the computer what is happening so it can control the pumps. #! N sensor, this is the small sensor on the top of the hyd pump that monitors the RPM of the engine. #2 P sensor , is the sensor on the outlet port of the pump that monitors the pressure that the pumps put out. #3 A sensor, the small can shaped sensor on the side of the hyd pump, this monitors the angle of the swash plate inside the hyd pump to tell the computer how much oil the pump is tying to put out. #4 DP sensor , is the can shaped sensor on the top and in the middle of the control valve. This tells the computer the difference in pressure between what the pump is putting out and what the valve bank is using. If the wiring to any of these sensors is bad or the sensors are bad or the fuses are bad all of your pump control is lost and many problems can occur. I have found that most hyd. problems on these machines are electrical problems! If the computer can not see what the pump is doing it will basically shut down and the pumps will slowly go to full swash and put out way too much oil and everything will speed up and loose power and the engine will be overwhelmed and smoke black smoke and stall. The biggest problem is crispy wiring in the pump aria that has broken or shorted out, this is the best place to start looking. also check the fuses and make sure they are all good and also the right ones in the right places. this is very important so you don't fry your computer!!
if you have access to dr. zx its the easy way to diagnose the problem. if you have just replace a new computer then maybe the problems are the sensors. try to check all your sensor that are stated above.
Computer says A-OK connected the computer it says that all of them are functioning. how do i manually test each one or can i?
did you go to monitor function? try to monitor the pump pressure, diffential pressure, angle sensor values.
The spools are activated by pilot oil from the joysticks. The amount of oil fed to each spool is controlled electrically from the proportional solenoid valves. These feed pilot oil through steel lines between each A and B port of the valve bank which activates the VPCV (variable pressure compensating valves) allowing oil to the spools. This is only skimming how this machine works, but as stated before most problems are electrical. In my experience, if it is dead slow then you are not getting a feed back from the DP sensor. If your PVC (Pump Valve Computer) is blinking light on and off at regular intervals then electrically it is not showing any faults. I have seen the old style DP sensor seize hydraulically. Therefore not reading a differential pressure and not sending a signal to the PVC to stroke the pumps. If you get it where it goes to max pump flow and kills the engine. Usually this is the A-sensor. Having said all that. I would check the main pressure and pilot oil pressure. And what the hell, fuses. Gone the hard way around to come back and find a fuse blown on that style of machine.
ok so i went back up to the machine sat there got the DR.ex to start checking things individually. as best i can tell i have very little pump pressure 2.3-5.1(kgh-m-?) but i do have alot of flow volume 360-374 l/min i was not able to get the hydraulic oil to read temp over 44c can a temp sensor cause this thing to sit? i am so lost this machine is kicking my ass any help would be appreciated.
Fixed so i found that the swash was moving and still would not build pressure so i pulled the main pressure relief valve to find it was bad..... replaced and drove off of mountain.....YAY 2 years it sat over that.
What do you guys think I have read all of the threads that have anything to do with the HITACHI 200LC. I have checked fuses, computer is operating normally Out of the 4 sensors they all tested fine. ALTHOUGH the angle sensor was a little suspect. STEP 1: I removed the sensor and checked with a small screwdriver to see if the fork on the swash plate was intact. I could rotate the fork freely which indicates that one of the arms must be broken. STEP 2: I put my multimeter in parallel on the ground and sensor return wires and adjusted angle sensor to roughly 1.45 or 1.54 Volts which is where it should sit in normal operation ** (I may not be accurate with the set voltage values because it has been several months since doing this but a guy with lots of experience had told me to set it to this so I am not making this number up) ** I then reinstalled the angle sensor. STEP 3: I got a friend to start the machine and operate it while I monitored the voltage..... WHAMMO the machine ran awesome no stalling or slow operation. THEN.. the voltage changed and the machine acted up again. **( I cant remember which did what but from what I gathered after a few tests. Either when the voltage goes above or below the value that I had originally set it causes one of these two things. ISSUE 1: the machine goes into a limp mode where the engine is at high rpm but all the hydraulic functions are slower than molasses. OR ISSUE 2: the machine runs fairly normal except it will stall out when you run the hydraulics full out (two functions at the same time or fully extended or retracted) My question to anybody is. Has anybody had this problem before? What have they done to fix it? Is it possible to tear down the pump and replace the fork? Does anybody have a rebuilt pump? Is there a manual that shows step by step instructions for tearing down the pump? Or is my troubleshooting completely effed and I am so far out I should get my head checked?
Need your help. I posted here a while ago about problems we were having with our 1994 EX200LC-2. My father has recently passed away and I want to get rid of t he machine, unfortunately the problem was not solved. Now I have 2 mechanics that have looked at the machine and both are giving me different stories. Just want to throw it out there and see if you guys might be able to help me out, as I don't know much about machinery. The engine wiring harness was replaced, a new PVC & EC, several sensors were replaced & most recently the stepping motor. Machine runs but has a speed control issue, almost like it doesn't have enough power. Machine can be reved up manually and hydraulic functions still don't work. Pump has been tested and is fine.
Where was the main pressure relief valve located on your machine? I am having a similar problem but can't seem to find this in the manual