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Hitachi excavator ex

lminter240 ยท 2010-04-10 11:13

I Have a Excavator Hitachi EX 55 UR, after work 20 minutes normal Temp. is coming alarm @ the dashboard RED LIGHT SYSTEM, end stop work all hydraulic system, Problem all instruction for diagnostic and reset ECM is written in Japanese.- You can help me?????? Thank you LOU

Replies60
  1. #1captain charlie2010-04-11 11:21

    Learn Japanese, get manual translated, (i had to say that sorry) check radiator for water, test for antifreeze ( i like to stick finger in and then lick it), see if fan belt is there and tight, you may have to pull thermostat and test for opening.

  2. #2lminter2402010-04-12 11:53

    Sorry, Engine is perfect, maybe hydraulic sensor??????????????????????????????

  3. #3lminter2402010-04-14 18:07

    I think no many peoples know about Hitachi Excavator EX55UR, I desperate need the machine working now. Thank you

  4. #4captain charlie2010-04-15 10:56

    Which light are you talking about, engine water temp or hydro temp. When i use my EX50 to doze the temp will climb but not in twenty minutes. I don't have a hydro temp on this machine. regards charlie

  5. #5binkie2010-04-15 23:23

    we have a hitachi ex 100-1, that over heats after 40 min, when i lift the bonnet the temperature drops.any ideas on how to fix problem?

  6. #6sultan2010-04-16 00:00

    There could be all sorts of causes for overheating. My Guesses: -Failed thermostat -Failed water pump -Clogged radiator fins (inside blockage preventing coolant flow or dirt preventing air flow around the fins) -Insufficient coolant Sometimes even engine oil issues can cause increased heat from friction. Check these first and see if they are your problems. And there are many more possible causes that a mechanic would be able to think of...

  7. #7watglen2010-04-16 07:15

    If you can operate with the hood up, but not with it closed, then blocked airflow passages would be my guess. Look for trash blocking airflow into the fan/rad area.

  8. #8lminter2402010-04-20 11:03

    Light location is @ dashboard red color with alarm - sign say SYSTEM, and after 5 minutes working well, after pass 5 minutes all hydraulic work very very SLOW, I change hydraulic oil, hydraulic filter, change strainer inside hyd. tank, Now Slow speed is start when alarm and red light is ON. Thanks ALL LOU

  9. #9lminter2402010-05-12 10:57

    HITACHI EX55 UR, Thanks ALL, I fix the machine, just replaced COMPUTER, and now woking perfect Thank you again

  10. #10robert2352011-08-22 19:29

    I have a EX55URC grey market to North America. it seems to operate at 195'F and the temperature gauge is at the top of the range but not in the red. We changed the coolant rad and thermostat. Do i have worn water pump or other problems. is this normal for this machine.

  11. #11tony Zandl2011-09-03 11:27

    Hi can you tell me where i can purchase a Hitachi ex 55 ur -3 computer (contol modual) I have the same problem.I hope somone can help me locate one off these computers. Thanks Tony.

  12. #12topcat2011-10-19 14:42

    I need an operators hand book for a EX55UR knuckle boom Hitachi excavator in english please anyone know of a site to download or buy these manuals . Machine is working OK but hydraulic modes only have Jap writing on indicators & I found a blown 10Ampm fuse that may have something to do with the hydraulic controls as they are real sensitive & fast at the moment & there is no indicator lamps lighting on the dash when the switch or switches are moved .? any one got a clew what these controls . TC

  13. #13tool_king2011-10-19 21:23

    lminter240 If you need to read a code .Let me know .I have the Hitachi Wind Dr and the Hitachi DrEx.I am in Passaic County.

  14. #14aboutenuf2011-10-19 22:48

    Hitachi EX60URG hydraulic failure- The unit has hydraulic power on RH track, bucket and boom- No power or pressure on LH track travel, stick up or down, Can the hydraulic pump be somehow diivided like this and have a stuck relief vale or why only operate from one side? anybody know?

  15. #15topcat2011-10-20 00:46

    thanks too_king I can still work machine but just jerky & will stall engine if I butt out a ram still finding my way around the little gadget & fixing stuff as I go . Just identfieing what the stick writing all means replaced a 12Amp fues still no lights on the 3 position switch ? Thanks for the first clew mate I will get back to you , TC

  16. #16topcat2011-10-21 07:39

    Got another days work done found the RPM down as is engine power throttle cable needs ajusting only geting half travel to Hi speed stop. Fan belt loose & radiator core Oil cooler needs hoseing out. Can computer be reset by removing battery leads that may dump fault codes & start a fresh page . Working my way through this little gadget as its had lots of neglect for the hours its got on it

  17. #17tool_king2011-10-21 08:50

    topcat Disconecting the battery will not clear the fault code from the computer.You need to use a Hitachi dr ex scanner or the laptop version to do so.

  18. #18topcat2011-10-21 21:18

    Thanks Tool_King now I got to look for the computer port or Data plug to plug my scan tool into got a local bloke looking for info on Hitachi I will Google a few things & see whats about on these machines down under there are a few about . Thanks for your time mate I will pass on any solved problems to the site here . TC

  19. #19tool_king2011-10-21 22:07

    topcat The connector should be in the fuse box .I will be a white connector with four pins or could have a white six pin connector with three pin in or both.If you have the Hitachi scanner it will work.I have three tools Iuse. The Dr EX,Palm pilot and a laptop software call WinDr.Let me know if you need any tool numbers or further help.

  20. #20topcat2011-10-25 02:59

    so far Ok mate I hope these shots come out tightened alternator belts, washed out radiator & oil cooler cores ajusted throtel control to get Max revs freed electrical wire under floor plate no change in conrtols responce just faster & cooler .

  21. #21topcat2011-11-01 19:54

    Ok further examination on control handels reveales lots of slack in the pilot control valves under the rubber boots I am going to look into that today & see if I can take out the slack so there is not much free travel as you move the controls about if it cant be ajusted out I will go to plan B & find my own fix as its hard to blend the movements for smooth opperation with all this slack I am also looking into the limit switches on boom & dipper arms the wireing looks bodgey I will see if there is a circuit through the system & that the switches still function then trace it back to the controls I will report back . all fuses are intact but still no LEDs on the dashboard lighting up still looking for that problem may have to photograph the signs & run it through a translater of some sort ? to see what it all means ?? TC

  22. #22topcat2011-11-01 23:38

    OK removed a little play from controls improved by 75% to the touch removed & cleaned & dryed out the dipper monitor sensor that wa full of water & rust & its working on its closing limit & now the alarm is also sounding may just need repsitioning for the other end of it travel . Removed the battery turminals as I was doing the job as there is no disconect switch on this machine that I have found so some things may have reset . Learning as we work every day we fix or ajust something thats bugging me. TC

  23. #23topcat2011-11-04 15:09

    OK i put a meter across the 3 wire sensor on the dipper arm & got no reading that made sence but when I cleaned & re mounted the thin & it started to work with the boom raised to its limit that worked again to & the travel of that function has a soft stop that now works . Folding the dipper brings the bucket close to the cab & the last part also has this slow but out stop & alarm buzzer now working as with with the bulk buckett on you could fill your lap with spoil real easy if you got into that spot . I figure these sensors are ruggered electronic devices & are just in need of ajustment to cover each end of their working range I will attack this next work day & see if the dipper extension limit will also work as this end gets lots of work reaching out as one dose on these small machines . I will get back to you next week . TC

  24. #24jaytech2011-11-04 22:10

    topcat i lost dash lights on my ex120. turned out not to be the fuse but the fuse holder. it was rusty and one of the pinch prongs had broken off. hope this helps. jay

  25. #25topcat2011-11-05 02:35

    thanks Jaytech as you can see the dash is suffering from exposure but the fuse box is sheltered from most of that I am just plucking up the courage to pull the screws & take a peek under there , its on the gunna list mate thanks for your time .TC

  26. #26Jackson2011-11-05 09:01

    Seems like there are quite a few of us that have a grey market machine. Some have manualds writen in Japanese. I have an EX60URG. Can anyone point me(us)to a source for manuals(English please). My problem started when I inadvertently put the two 12V batteries in- reversed-I think. I had written down a diagram but lost it so I installed them using my obviously unreliable memory. I set them in series, which I think was correct, giving 24V, but may have the polarity wrong. I had it as a positive ground. As I recall nothing worked so I rechecked, that's when I found the polarity problem, and reinstalled with negative ground. Now when I try to start it all the lights on the operator panel come on and the guages all seem to work but the starter never comes on. At the very least I need a wiring diagram. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

  27. #27Jackson2011-11-05 09:03

    Seems like I should have proof read my post. Sorry about the spelling errors. I really can read and write in English.....

  28. #28Jackson2011-11-05 09:11

    Re my post on my Hitachi EX60URG: It just occurred to me that maybe I don't have an electrical problem. This is a new machine for me; my first excavator actually. And its essentially the first time I've used it. Maybe I don't know how to start it. Is there something other than the ignition switch that has to be done? I know some machines have interlocks or safety related features that prevent starting. Am I missing something obvious? One other question for all you smart, experienced, and, did I mention good looking, experts. What the heck does the URG stand for???

  29. #29grizzssly2011-11-11 16:40

    hopefully a easy question, i have a ex55ur with the nissan td23 motor, and need to no what oil filer it takes, cant read the jap writing on it, and no i dont want to learn it either, as i saw in a different post, and how much oil it will hold, thanks

  30. #30tool_king2011-11-11 17:43

    grizzssly The oil filter is a B2 Baldwin .Other filters Replaces: Allis Chalmers 7023700-0; Case A146696; Ford B7A-6714-A, C9NN-6714-A

  31. #31tool_king2011-11-11 19:14

    oil capacity should be around eight quarts of oil.

  32. #32tool_king2011-11-11 21:13

    hse are the filters for the ex55ur Lube B2 (L4278859) Pilot Hyd. PT8392 (4294135) Return Hyd. P7264 (4294132) Fuel Spin-on BF7841 (4178829) Fuel BF932 (4339926) O. Air PA3820-FN (4294846) Opt. I. Air PA2861 (4311871)

  33. #33yanmarman2011-11-13 09:06

    Iminter 240 What did it cost?

  34. #34topcat2011-11-13 13:39

    The engine in our machine I believe is Izusi diesel enough power to do the job & good on diesel . Lifted the dash & found another in line fuse 30 amp blown bridged it out for the time being I will replace it this week ajusted the boom stop sensor beter but needs fine tuning on the extending limit . Still no led's on the dash & the smal LCD display that is half blank has the leters H/S/L that are displayed on the working half can be moved by pushing the buton under it but dont seem to change anything in the controls . I am thinking that this stuff is for an aircon cab model & not our open machine as there are lots of empty plugs under the seat may be to work a cab heater /AC system . Machine works great just not smooth & hydraulics dont feel any change when I change dash settings as I cant read what all that gobbly gook signs mean as Yet may have to take pictures & go & see the local ethnick help mob someone may read it for me . TC

  35. #35Jackson2011-11-16 17:38

    I have an EX60URG and found an operator's manual on the John Deere site. The same manual covers the 55 I think. Cost about $30 US. Covers all the basic stuff. The only problem with it is that it seems to be for the current version of the machine-mine is an older unit-and the locations of many things are different. And I don't know what the URG or your UR stand for. There may be differences there as well. In any case-its the only Operator's Manual I've located.

  36. #36topcat2011-12-04 13:42

    OK track tension everyone has their own idea as to how tight rubber thacks should be I just broke one on flat ground no crap in the track just snapped . I would say it has jumped the sprocket teeth as all the running gear is free & clean any refrence as to how much sag is the corect on the top run . I will look into the track slack ajuster gear there should be some sort of shock spring i would think in the system ??? TC

  37. #37yanmarman2011-12-05 06:32

    topcat how are you? Well Itighten mine to 3/8 inch slack ,lift machine off ground pump tracks till only 3/8clearance off of bottom track roller Never had ant problems.I check my track tenison weekly,should check more,.What kind of tracks did you have? good luck

  38. #38topcat2011-12-05 13:39

    Thanks Yanmaran when the new track arrives that will be what I will aim for the slack ajusters need new grease nipples fitting so there is no loss of presure from my small grease gun its a high presure gun with small volume per stroke got to get a bigger one for this job will free up the front idler to make shure it is all working as it should while I have it of line . thanks for your time TC

  39. #39yanmarman2011-12-05 17:48

    no problem

  40. #40topcat2011-12-11 13:27

    Ok I have been into the track frame in preporation for the new track chains arrivle & freed it all up fixed the ajuster but found it all just siting in there solid no shock pad or spring that I could find behind the ajuster so it looks like the track it self has to cop the loads when there is muck in the chain & sprocket teeth ?? So from here on I will lift & spin the tracks more often to stop build up I would guess after all its only a toy machine so no frills . TC :beatsme

  41. #41joeylittle2011-12-13 21:39

    hi , got an ex55ur , loking for parts for this machine, any help... need ngk spark plug module ( controls glow plugs ) , also need hydraulic cylinder

  42. #42joeylittle2011-12-14 08:42

    control module Did you ever find parts for this machine since I have one also

  43. #43jcgranite2011-12-14 12:16

    anyone know where i can get a manual for a 1990 ex 50urg excavator , also need the swing motor housing /gears.

  44. #44topcat2011-12-14 13:49

    Best of luck mate when you find one let me know to my new track should arrive today & we will start work again so i will start learning more about the toy as we go more work & tuneing to be done on the Hydraulics but that will have to wait till the job is over & we find time to play . TC

  45. #45rock882011-12-14 21:39

    Good equipment for excavators

  46. #46archibaldtuttle2011-12-18 08:41

    Jackson, If you look at the way the access to EX-60 manuals is laid out on the John Deere site, there are actually EX60 and then EX60-2, EX60-3 . . . I called the help number for the library but all they do is sell the books and they have no idea whatsoever how to match your serial number to the series involved. Long time gone (almost before the internet) there used to be a division of Hitachi in the US (in Texas) that could offer modest help with these gray market machines. I got a print version of a parts manual for mine that has been spot on by giving them the serial number but this office is long gone. I believe, as you pointed out that getting the correct operator's, parts or repair manual depends on correctly matching your machine to the series noted above. DOES ANYONE KNOW IF THERE IS A WEB RESOURCE FOR ESTABLISHING MODEL AND BUILD DATE FOR GRAY MARKET HITACHI's by SERIAL NUMBER? This is really a necessary adjunct resource to the John Deere Library. I also have another open question for any other Hitachi gray-fficianados. Was there ever a John Deere equivalent to the EX60, or any of the smaller of the Hitachi line that we get gray from Canada? The assumption I always had was that they weren't marketed in America because John Deere sold equivalent models, but maybe they just weren't marketed in America for competitive or supply reasons but there was no actual equivalent model. As to the URG - I have always believed, but can't remember if it was ever confirmed to me by anyone at Hitachi, that this designated the offset boom. Does your unit have the boom offset? As far as the batteries which you seem to have figured out, on mine which according to my notes is an EX60-2 but I have no way of confirming that and the parts manual just says "EX60 Excvator serial No. 10001 - " but no where on my machine is there any 5 digit serial number, instead the MFG. No. is listed as 10C-1977. Now maybe that sould be taken to be 11977 but who knows? Anyway it is 24V, Batteries in series negative ground. The machine starts from the key swith (turn left for glow plugs, yellow light on cluster goes out when plugs are warm enough, then right to start). Finally for Topcat et al on track tension - I would imagine this debate applies to virtually all rubber track excavators, not just Hitachi. Although perhaps the idler design may include shock absorption on some other models that I have not found present on the Hitachi medium weight gray market rubber track machines. Of course these machines can be tracked either way, you can find EX60's on steel. So maybe smaller units have such niceties. My EX60 broke a track early in its career, but I don't really believe it was so much from track tension as from the habit of the tracks to get cracks in the rubber and expose the steel cords to corrosion and physical abuse weakening them to the point where they may ultimately snap when challenged. That said, I run my tracks much looser than I used to as a precaution. This results perhaps in more frequent detracking, but I'm pretty adept at getting these tracks on in 10 minutes. Given that my first experience with detracking was on a 20 ton Kobelco on steel up to its gills in mud, if you survived that, you can survive anything and I believe that the looser tracking is less likely to break rather than detrack. I've got ten years on these new tracks (BTW, I had no money when I broke the track and I actually used stainless steel aircraft cable and a nicropress to stitch the track back together and ran for almost a year that way. When you hear what they want for tracks you might consider that alternative, and/or just to operate in the pinch while you wait for one to get shipped in . . . Nough said. Apparently I don't have the privilege of starting a new thread and no adminstrator has responded to my e-mail to explain why, but I am particularly interested in chasing down better documentation as to the actually series of machine I own because I need to buy a repair manual as I have to take the swing box out. The seal is gone and I can't keep oil in it and it has started to make a sickening grinding sound so I think I have a few expensive parts on my roster and would be well served by getting the right repair manual although I would vastly appreciate any comments on the experience of those who have pulled their swing box on technique, things to watch out for re falling out the bottom of the unit as you lift it out. And finally, I have a pretty good clunk at the end or reverse of swing which suggests to me that the shaft on the outer planetary gear and or the teeth are worn but I have never been able to find a way to grease or inspect this gear. The only guess I can make is that there is an inspection port under about the right foot of the operator's seating position that doesn't appear to access anything, but perhaps if the cab is turned to just the right spot this seems about the right distance from the center of swing to possibly allow inspection of the shaft for the outer planetary. Thanks, Brian

  47. #47topcat2011-12-18 13:51

    Thanks Brian I am back with a new track & working A$2000.00 & I am going to look into the running gear on the other side track its making noises that dont feel good . apart from that I believe I have a presure reliefe problem on the dipper extension as it will stall out the engine if you butt it out & it takes priortary in the hydraulic system . I need to move the control handels when I get the chance to a beter position whre I can rest my arms on my knees or some where & work with my wrists to make things smooth in operation as the seat has no arm rests & you float about when on bad terain . The off set boom is real handy but there is more moving parts to wear & keep lubed so it may help on resale its got to be used & not abused as the machine is fast & not the way larger machines I drive are configured with hydrailics you can blend movements & be smooth saves wear &tear . Thanks for your time mate good luck in your quest for info I am in the same boat thats why I came here . TC :notworthy Merry Xmas to all .

  48. #48willie592011-12-18 16:23

    Explanation is quite simple: You have to post three times at the forum then your status will be upgraded, you will then be able to start a new thread. This is to control computer spam bots from inundating HEF with spam.

  49. #49archibaldtuttle2011-12-18 18:44

    topcat, yours is EX55 right? not familiar with that machine. I can occasionally stall out the EX60 with high load but usually running multiple actions and never associated it with any bump on the dip control or really any one control and although it would become worse to the point of inoperability if fuel deliver were impeded. I've actually installed an electric lift pump right under the fuel tank because there is only three problems I've ever had with the machine (until 25 years in with this swing box) and those problems are fuel, fuel and fuel. There was an inline fuel screen that nobody would know about contained in a hollow bolt at one end of the fuel line that was almost unreachable. (once somebody finally tipped me to that I took it out and threw it away and put the inline fuel pump and a prefilter right under the tank). Are you not able to extend the dip at all? It sounds more like you are saying you can't do it under certain circumstances with other functions operating. I thought you wouldn't hit a pressure relief unless you were doing excavator isometrics, e.g. grabbed a rock or something that you won't slip off and pulling on it for all you are worth. If you are just moving functions but not under heavy load I wouldn't think the issue would be pressure relief. Rather you need more volume to move more functions and you hit a heavy consumer with the dip. I'm not sure how the machines are governed, including my own. I never looked into it because I've never needed to. I'm presuming if you start hitting more functions or load a function that has been swinging free that the machine increases its own fuel delivery to maintain flow to all functions but that is strictly an assumption on my part. My question would be whether it might be a governor type problem? as far as noise from the other side track, I lift up the machine and hand spin the bottom rollers to check for smooth operation and then drop the machine and lever the track up with a long bar to check the top support idlers. Bad rollers won'[t help the track but the only track I've ever snapped was at a crack in the rubber where the steel cords had been exposed to corrosion and physical abuse. Do you have any sense if the one you snapped went at a pre-existing crack or weak spot? Brian

  50. #50archibaldtuttle2011-12-18 18:52

    willie , thanks for filling me in. i figured it might be something like that but some sites require an administrator to figure out you are a real person or something and I hadn't been on the site in a while and so I also thought my absence might have been the problem so I sent an email to the site administator a couple weeks ago and never heard anything. unfortunately the message you get when you try to post just says 'you don't have that privilege, maybe you aren't signed in right' or something approximately like that and doesn't offer a lack of posting history as a possible issue.

  51. #51willie592011-12-18 18:55

    You have 3 posts now, when the server updates, typically within an hour, your status will upgrade.

  52. #52Capnkel12013-01-10 20:00

    I have an Hitachi EX55UR with the same problem as Iminter240. Within a minute after I turn machine on the red light "system" lights up and the alarm sounds. I know the engine is not overheating and there is enough oil and hydraulic fluid and I have checked for everything I can think of. Does anyone know how to correct this? Many thanks.

  53. #53emover_12013-01-10 20:23

    my guess is you have one bad pump. Most machines have multiple pumps with divided usuage so you can do multi functions smoothly simultaineously. If you keep using it you will have more bad pumps since they share the oil supply.

  54. #54Capnkel12013-01-10 20:45

    Ex55Ur system light thanks for the response. I finally called Hitachi in Australia and they were very helpful. They said it was most likely a malfunction of the collision alarm. Which I knew to be true because I had broken the wire sometime back clearing some brush. They also sent me an email describing more of the functions of the "system" alarm. The alarm can sound differently depending upon the problem. Thanks

  55. #55topcat2013-01-10 23:52

    Ok happy new year to all I havent done many hours on this machine for a while the problen is on boom extension there is no pressure unload when it hits the end of travel that is butting the dipper cylinder out. croud it in & it slows then unloads the pressure as it should & the boom lift travel is the same slows then stops with no load on the engine & alarm sounds as it hits stop all good its just the dipper extension thats the problen it will kill the engine straight away with load stalling out . tryed the limit switch settings but no luck I just have to be carfull when working at full strech on the dipper arm . No time to chase faults till the job is finished . Going to switch functions to backhoe & other configureations on the change over valve next time & see if its only in excavator control mode . TC

  56. #56joeblow2013-01-13 10:07

    Check for no load sense or sticking swash plate on rear pump

  57. #57docsteviec2015-06-14 03:28

    Hi i'm new to this forum in fact posting to any forum but seems like a helpful bunch of people on it so thought i'd join. I found a range of manuals for the EX55UR on line at [email protected] they were very helpful finding what i needed and came up with operators manual, parts manual *2 and a workshop manual, electric circuit diagrams and hydraulic circuit diagrams.

  58. #58Gary Kellam2015-06-16 14:11

    Thinking about buying a hitachizx22u any good

  59. #59rseipalau2020-01-20 18:49

    i am facing the same problem with my ex55ur....did you ever get a respond - did you fix the problem?

  60. #60rseipalau2020-01-20 18:55

    having the same problem - did you ever fix the problem ??