I just bought this, seems to be very sound mechanically-hour meter says 2084 hrs, and I would guess by how tight all the pins n joints are that it’s pretty accurate, feels really tight, and the original rubber seals are still in all the joints. All the glass but one panel are original. A couple of the gauges are not working, engine temp one has been replaced. One cylinder is weeping slightly, like after an hr of running it’s slightly wet on the face of the cylinder but a drop has not formed yet. The shaft is in perfect condition, I am guessing just old seals that need replacing. Engine runs really good, it’s it the low 30s right now, and after sitting over night, hit the glow plugs for 20 seconds and she fires immediately. A minute or so and she running clean and smooth - although these old cabs sure don’t provide any sound insulation!! Story is it came from the forest service, and guessing by the color they may have got it from the military. Also has an extremely heavy duty bobcat dimension quick bucket change over setup, looks original, and the bucket itself is definitely original- IH tat on it completely legible. Couple pictures, then I have a couple questions!
So now the questions What is this about? It’s below the air compressor. And I am pretty sure the air compressor has been replaced.
This is the quick attachment and the bucket tag. I know it fits a bobcat, cause I also got a set of forks that go on the set up, and he put them on his bobcat to load them onto the trailer. The Black paint was just done by his wife, she thought they would get more out of it if she painted it. But gave up after she realized how much work it was going to be! However, her mother owns a sign shop, so she made all those nice new IH stickers and put them on instead, I am glad she did, looks kind a lot cool to me! They owned it 10 years, but she wanted a new horse trailer so she convinced her husband to sell it, believe me he did not want to let it go, negotiating was tough.
Second question, need manuals, there is very little info on these machines- so far I have found nothing on this model. Found a post or two on A 50B, and some of the larger machines, but nothing on the 50C
Think I found manuals at Jen Sales
One of the nicest older loaders I've seen. I'd guess the Bobcat style quick attach was added at a later date. My concern would be if it will hold up on a machine this size. Not sure but I think the alcohol is used to prevent the air lines and components from freezing. Made up to 1977.
Look around the air compressor or air lines for something like this: Alcohol goes in that and when compressor is running it evaporates some into the air to act as an antifreeze to keep air system working in freezing temps. There are other types used but seems like Hough liked that style! PS, Nice looking machine, what engine does it have? Did a little digging and found this on the Evaporator, see attachment.
I saw that on Spokane Craigslist a couple days ago and was a little tempted. Seems like a pretty good deal for around here. I was wondering if it had the D282 (or other member of that family) engine, which is a gasoline engine converted to diesel. If so be gentle with her and don't let her run hot, she is famous for blown head gaskets and cracked heads. Probably can't find a head for them anymore. The gasoline version of that engine is excellent and would make a good swap if the diesel becomes unrepairable.
Check, yep, that’s the one! Where do I look to find the engine model # ?
Welder Dave: The bobcat style adapter is built heavy- heavier than any bobcat or tractor version I have seen. My main use for this will be snow removal, and then secondary using the forks. Most of my dirt projects will be spreading gravel.
I can't remember, It's been 35 years since I seen one. The 282 had two simple straight rows of head bolts and long glow plugs to each cylinder. Also, these engines had a hole between #3 and #4 cylinder where you could run a rod from left to right, I think that was for throttle control linkage, maybe when installed in left hand drive vehicles. This is a dry sleeve cylinder type engine so it probably had freeze plugs. The 282 is a big bore version of the 236 they put in farm tractors. Back in 1981 I had 2 International Travelalls, one with the gas 6 cylinder and one with a D301, which was a parent bore diesel member of the same family. Lots of Galion Cherry Pickers have the 282. I agree that quick attach is probably a bit light for a wheel loader, but you'll be glad to have it, especially if it has auxiliary hydraulics.
I'd careful in heavy pushing and especially using only the corners of the bucket. Then you should be OK.
Good Buy as I see it!! Good luck with the Machine!!
Found it! Right beside compressor, Next question how do you fill it?
Steel crown head cap with that pointy head, is also a relief safety valve. Bleed off the air in it as you start pulling that off. Some had a drain port on the bottom to drain any water as well vent the can to ready for refill.
Check Does any of this look familiar? I ordered a manual that has the 282 as the engine that would be in this. seems like the only other diesel option was the Detroit in this model machine, there was also a gas option.
https://www.haldex.com/globalassets/north-america/documents/air-dryers-_-air-line/l31072.pdf
That’s what I was guessing, and it does have the drain Petcock on the bottom
Looks to be the Hough/IH UD282, also had a 260 but have not seen one in years. Should be a ID plate down on the block. Glow plug wiring has seen better days!!
Checked out the attachment adapter closely and it was definitely added later. The welding on most of it was done very nice - to where it looks factory. But in the difficult to get to spots - welding was not as good. And the bucket has the original bosses where the lower pins go thru.
LOL, w think that’s the NEW wiring! He replaced glow plugs sometime in the last 5 years. As well as the alternator and starter. Also noticed today that the original fuel pump was bypassed and the new one baling wired in place. Kind of funny the things you don’t see right away- and I spent an hour going over it before I made an offer!
Another question On the alternator side of the engine, Is that an oil filter housing- where the hose is going past?
On the other side I know the two cans closest to the cab are fuel filter housings
All the filters on this will be cannister, If feel experimental can buy aftermarket truck remote filters and eliminate the old cans. Cleaner. On the old GP System feeder wire went to one then daisy chained next to next to next, no reason for the BIG Daisy Flower wire sculpture pictured.
He had at least one hydraulic hose blow that I see has been replaced fairly recently. And the rest, while they do not have weather checking on them, they are definitely old!! So I would like to replace all of them soon. I know I could pull a fitting off to verify if it’s JIC But if anyone knows if that’s what was common might save me the mess! The thread OD and pitch matches a JIC 12 fitting
As DMiller also confirmed, yes that's one of that family.
As with most MilSurplus will end up changing most of the hoses as they shock load and either fail or start sweating/seeping, lack of use and they become brittle. Still should be a decent random use little loader.
Go back to post #8 where I attached the service manual for this unit and it will tell you how to maintain it!
kshansen Yep, it opened for me - and has good instructions, want to make sure that its working with winter here! Got a chassis and engine manual coming, should make getting this thing up to my standards more straightforward. The one hydraulic cylinder that has the weep has a little piece of the wiper missing. after all new hoses, I will go ahead and get all the cylinders redone. And of course tidy up all the wiring! What is it about old machines and wiring? Seems like no one ever finishes the job when they replace or remove something, they just leave the unused wire hanging there- drives me NUTS! Went to the surplus center and found they have a joystick style spool valve with a third accessory spool, good for 25 gallons a minute. this would be really nice to have for a swivel snow plow or grapple etc. Not sure its quite big enough though, as the current valve has -12 control circuit fittings and the one from surplus center has -10 size control circuits with a -12 size supply.
A great deal of Shade Tree boys would have a problem electrically and the first instinct they would have was 'Run a New Wire'. Wire generally NOT the problem but lacking trouble shooting skills many machines got hacked to pieces still broken after multiple 'Fixes'.
I don't think I'd mess around with the spool valves. Maybe see if a 3rd spool can be added (may already one) but if everything is working properly leave it as is.
Leave the cylinders alone till they start leaking. Being that old, most likely they've been done already, and not all at the same time unless the military did them. Fix as needed. The weeping one you can fix so you don't keep bringing more dirt into the system.
Made a little progress this week, removed the old fuel transfer pump that had just been left in place! Cut the zip ties of that were holding the newer fuel pump in place and mounted it where the old one was. Replaced the wires to it, they had been spliced three places! Rerouted the fuel lines and the air lines. Did all of that while servicing the anti freeze alcohol air reservoir. Also picked a snow plow for it. It has hydraulic swivel so I ordered another single spool valve, so I can swivel from the cab and have an accessory circuit. I decided Welder Dave was correct- leave the original one in place! But used the plow yesterday Morning anyway. The quick coupler on the plow hoses are make n female, so hooked it together and then grabbed the blade, swung it over to an angle, disconnect and plowed. It was just a small snowfall of 3 inches overnight. Plowing with this is awesome! plowed our private road in 3 passes. I am going to need to wear hearing protection when plowing though! With hammer down, she is loud in the cab!
So......I can’t concentrate on anything else but that glow plug wiring. It’s setting off my OCD something fierce!!
I thought it was Purdy!! kinda stoopid but purdy like a flower sculpture!!
That flower must DIE!!
LOL You guys crack me up! Ok, I will get that mess straightened up when I add all my new LED lights. Be a few weeks though- left today for Puerto Rico, then Florida till after the new year!
What!? It ain’t done yet? LOL
Who gave Batkom permission to take off on vacation before finishing the repairs? One would think spending time working outside in Idaho on this machine was not close to a vacation in Florida in December!
I don’t work on my machines outdoors!! Even in the summer! I am fortunate to have a shop at home heated and AC that I can get this into , as well as my excavator, when I need to work on them. If it doesn’t fit at my home shop, or need more room, I take it to my actually work! I have a lot of respect for those of you that work on heavy equipment outdoors, in all kinds of weather! If I had to do that - Nothing would get done!
Well did some more work to the old beast - got all my lights on - still have not fixed the glow plug daisy though! But I did try and add a third valve to operate the hydraulic swivel on my snow plow. I say try- cause I did complete the installation- but didn’t think it out correctly! Mostly due to ignorance of how the factory valve is set up. I used an open center valve that I fed from a T off of the line that supplies the oil to the main valve. So I am sure you can guess what happened! The boom n bucket are slow now and the swivel on the blade only works if you pull the boom lever at the same time as the swivel lever. So trying to figure out where I should be getting the oil supply for the third valve, or if I need a closed center on the third valve. the original main valve description in the manual - Two spool balanced spool design with integral pilot operated relief valve. Any suggestions on this?
It's likely open center so a closed center valve wouldn't work and cause major damage. The current valve may have a power beyond option to add another valve or perhaps you could add a valve with power beyond before the current valve. A simpler option might be to install a hyd. selector valve. Flip it to angle the plow then flip it back for the bucket. It would be a good idea to talk to an experienced hyd. shop and tell them what you want to do. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Selector-Valves/
Get the ID numbers off the old valve Should have a tag somewhere on it or take you parts book to a decent hydraulics shop They will be beat choice
Welder dave After thinking about it overnight - I came to the same solution, was thinking of getting fancy and using a solenoid operated selector valve, with a button on the handle of the valve I added. However I think you and Dmiller are correct that I need to find out if there is another solution using oil from the original valve - the power beyond option port would be ideal if it has one. I have the manual now that shows a complete tear down on the original valve - but does not mention any of the ports being for power beyond. Like you have all recommended - I will take a pic of the tag and find someone who can clue me in before I go further. I obviously did not think this thru completely before I started! Right now with two open center valves, I am losing flow thru the valve I added when operating boom n bucket function, and then when I try to operate my blade swivel valve I added, all the flow is just going straight thru the original valve. The only reason the boom n bucket function work at all is that the third function plumbing is smaller, so the flow thru it is restricted enough that the boom n bucket have some flow, if I had made the plumbing the same size, I doubt I would be getting any movement. So much for foresight - hindsights working though!
Be glad it's an older rather simple hyd. set up to figure out. Some of the new systems could put you in a padded room.
I agree with that! Well, from info I could get today, this valve does not have power beyond. So I added a manual selector valve. Wanted to do a solenoid operated one, but could not find any with port size I needed, locally or online. Don’t want to restrict the flow to the main valve.
Not sure what happens with the sideways pictures! And this valve setup now works perfectly! Thanks, welder Dave for the suggestion and confirming my thoughts on adding the selector valve
The only concern I can think of is if the selector valve is rated high enough GPM for the flow of the system.
I think it’s sized correct, has same fitting sizes and spool is actually larger than spools in main valve. As well this thing really does not move that much oil. Manual says pump capacity at 1200 rpm 100 psi is : Small element, 9 gpm Large element, 17 gpm Apparently the pump has two pumping sections, both manuals refer to the dual element pump. So if they work together that would be 28 gpm.
I would worry about what GPM rating the selector valve has not what port sizes it has. Too small will cause heating of the hyd. oil and possible other damage.
No worries Welder Dave, It’s rated for 3000 psi and 30 gpm.
Finally stopped snowing! So spent some time yesterday putting in a back up camera - I had bought it a while ago - but had not put it in! Big mistake! Backed over my lamp post in the driveway - forgot it was there! Wife was NOT happy! Also did a bunch of cleaning up the wiring, getting rid of random unused wires left from who knows what over the years. Also fixed/redid the glow plug flower!
Before picture as a reminder!
Pictures of the led lights - love these things!
Camera view
Finally got some part numbers and filters for this. My local Napa has been zero help finding filters for this - if it’s not in the computer- forget it! However if you can find a number they seem to be able to cross reference and find some of them. So they had one Napa engine oil filter and I wanted another, so found a Baldwin on line. Not sure about the Baldwin- it’s wrapped in some kind of paper or fabric. Installed the Napa one that’s metal wrapped. Any thoughts on the Baldwin?
Baldwin is generally considered a good filter.
The fluid flows from the outside to the inside of the filter, meaning the pressure is on the core of the filter. The outside metal is to protect the filter until it's installed, shouldn't matter once it's installed. Napa gold is wix, so that's a well regarded filter also. In reality, if you put in the cheapest filter and change it on schedule, 99+% of the time there's going to be no difference.
thanks guys! Never used this type filter on an engine, always spin on style.
Changed 7 hoses and hydraulic oil Monday. This has two filters in the tank on the return side. Check out this filter, I wonder how old it is!?
What's the outside of that filter look like?
Don’t have a side view, the filtering element looks a little grey. Will cut open next week n look at it. Inside of tank was actually surprisingly clean. Few flecks of yellow paint and a very light grey layer on the bottom and walls that cleaned off with one swipe with a rag.
It doesn't look very bad. Baldwin cross is PT499-5. Other brands should have a cross as well. https://www.baldwinfilters.com/port...25651dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN#/partDetail/PT499-5
Serviced the tranny this week - it was in need of service more than I had realized. Filter was quite gray, but more concerning was the metal I found in the strainer in the bottom of the sump.
Was able to reach in and clean the sump thoroughly, then flushed the system. Drained and refilled. Will run awhile now and then pull filter and strainer and see how it looks after 10 hours or so.
Also got the front windshield wiper working! I don’t understand people- all that was wrong with it was the on off switch was corroded up, got it freed up and hooked the wires back up n it worked perfectly! Why they had disconnected an obvious original factory wiring loom because they thought the wiper motor was burned up is beyond my comprehension! I am sure the rear one is the same way as you can’t even rotate the switch.
Nice machine. I wanted an IH 530 instead of my Terex, but couldn’t find one close enough to ship. Yours weighs 15,805 lbs, about half of my Terex. Did you get a manual yet? https://www.jensales.com/content/ppp/hough-h-50c-pay-loader-service-manual.pdf
Mountainguyed67 Yes, I have all the manuals now, chassis, engine, parts, and an original 1966 operator and maintenance manual - thanks to eBay. Also found a sales brochure from the mid 70s that has this exact version of the 50c pictured. It lists the weight with each bucket option offered, and the weight of each tire option offered. The way mine is configured it weighs 17,783 lbs I am sure a big part of that is the ROPs cab that had become std by then. The original weight listed in the 1966 manuals are as you said. As well,the hydraulic pump output volume was increased and the hydraulic tank design changed as well as the size of the boom and bucket cylinders were increased in the late models. Mine was made in 1977. I know the history on them says they discontinued mfr in 1976, but the tag on the dash says 1977. Guessing this may be due to it being made for the Air Force? For my needs it’s a perfect size. Has plenty of pushing grunt and the lifting capacity/ tipping load is over 12,000 lbs according to the manual.
I’m jealous that you have an IH, appears to be in good shape too. At the time I bought mine there was a 515 for sale in Southern California, but I wanted something bigger. There were 530s in the Midwest and East, but I didn’t want to ship that far.
Well, I wouldn’t be too jealous - I doubt the parts you have had to replace would be any easier to source for the IH/Hough! I personally think that all the Terex equipment is pretty cool - never worked on it, but all that I have seen always made any other machine it was near look wimpy! They look like they can take on a mountain and win!
The Terex is a stout machine for sure. I was in the Army 85-87. We had forklifts that were just a 2-1/2 yard loader with forks instead of a bucket, they had International Hough on the side. The operators liked them.
This weeks project was oil change in final drives and differentials. Front looked good, rear differential did have a few pieces of metal on the magnet - in addition to the typical real fine gray crud. I also noticed that the left rear axle housing has been replaced. Wonder if the metal came from whatever happened to that axle housing. Will have to take a pic of the pieces. Also put two new tires on, the rears were concerning, quite rotten and one leaking thru the side wall. While I was at it painted the final drives and wheels Started installing new bucket edges, The last job done to it was a mess. Took most of the day with a torch and grinder to get it ready. Got the frog tacked in place on the ends, but need to straighten the bucket floor before I go further.
Being as that appears a cotter pin puller those pieces appear pretty small. Side gear thrust washer sections maybe, possible lost a bearing at some point. Does not appear as an issue if not currently thumping grinding or other oddities.
My guess is as yours, DMiller. I put 18 hrs plowing on it this winter, and then a bit of other odd jobs around here, probably ran in around 25 hrs since I bought it, and I have not heard or felt anything odd. So hopefully it was something left from the past!
Bucket edge finished and added some side cutters to save those edges from more wear. And made a bucket position indicator. Roughly copied the one in my manuals picture. She ready to go to work for the summer!
So you can tell when it’s level?
Yes, so I can tell when the bottom of the bucket is parallel with the ground. works good, used it this weekend while cleaning up some property loading 15 yards or so of dirt. Bummer thing though - punched something - probably a nail thru one of my new tires! I had also ripped out the remains of a wood fence with the excavator and hauled it off - but there were still a few boards laying around, must have had nails in at least one of them. I will have to remind my self when running the loader that rubber tires are not invincible!
My machine has a bucket leveler system, but it’s not working. Does yours even have one?
Think mine may have had auto bucket level at one point. There were some brackets on the bucket cylinder that had whatever was attached torched off.
I’ve done alright getting the bucket level by dropping the lift cylinders all the way, with the tilt already back. Then tilting down until it starts to lift the machine, and come back a tad.
On the old Allis machines was called return to dig. Had detent on the control spools to latch up and as reached the point of dig effort would spool off.
This is what I was looking at when I built it. Painted. Red line around the cylinder where the buckets parallel to the ground. After dumping, while backing up I run the bucket back to the line and then lower the boom as soon as I am clear.
Some machines had just an indicator but most had a detent that could be adjusted to level the bucket how you wanted it (return to dig). Some machines also have an adjustable lift height kick out. If you were loading the same thing all the time, it makes it foolproof. Lift till it kick's out and you're good.
One of the older guys here when I started working for the company, he's passed away now, they bought him a new 966F, the last good Cat loader we ever had, we're up to M now and the experience hasn't been good. It had the bucket kick out. He got the guys to build him an indicator because he liked to know where the bucket floor was.