I have a couple posts up here about issues with a Deere 200clc. Hauled it to the local dealer to have him take a look at it. Arm in function not working correctly. Hooked up laptop and pressures checked out ok so he is thinking it must be in the spool assembly. The tech didn't get a chance to start disassembly on anything yet to start the process. If it ends up being an issue with the spool block or valve block (is that what you would call it?) does anyone know of a place that could repair it? Have to buy the whole assembly from Deere and it's a cheap price of 24,000. My other thought is to try and find one at a salvage yard. Is this a good idea and does anyone have a recommend one they use? Don't know for certain it is the valve block just trying to explore options if it is. Tech did make some mention to checking out a second spool that also runs the arm in. Would like to get this fixed without having the price of a new pickup in it. Thanks
Oliver182 The block in made in what is call spool sections.They can be replaced one at time and not having to replace the hole valve block.Making it much cheaper for repair cost.
Ok I'll have to push my dealer. They claim you can't get parts of it and have to get the entire thing. I hope your right.
There are two halves to the valve, a four spool side and a five spool side, neither is available separately, and you cannot buy replacement spools. It is possible that Deere would provide a non documented solution, never know until you try. It's likely if there is a malfunction it's going to be a minor and replaceable part, if for some reason there is an issue with a spool or the block itself, they can usually be repaired by honing the bores oversize, then they grind, chrome, and regrind to fit the spools back to factory tolerance. If the pressures are correct, what is the malfunction, speed? Usually there's a regeneration circuit on modern machines that ports some of the rod end oil back to the butt end to speed things up, it's just a couple check valves and a piloted valve that changes states when pressure in the butt end starts to rise. Might be in that system, if it has it, will be built into the main valve block I would think. Good luck with her.
Have you seen how many hoses and steel lines run into that manifold? I had to take one out and split it because there were o-rings between the two halves that were leaking. It took me 2 1/2 hard days in 105* weather to get it done. I think the dealer wanted $8000 to do the job and that's been 3 years ago.
Heck yeah, I'd much rather do an engine swap or even a Rotek bearing, lol.
Maybe a little more info as to what the actual issue is with the arm circuit? A bit extreme worrying about a new control valve.
remember it's at dealer they don't fix or diagnose the problem just throw parts at it until problem goes away.
I have two separate posts from the last several days here that aren't to far down the page. HeavyEquipmentForums HeavyEquipmentForums If you have any ideas I would gladly investigate them. Thanks
Weirdest darn thing is it will only have problems when the oil warms up. Couple days ago it was slow while checking it and shut it off for a couple minutes. Started it right back up and worked fine for a couple cycles. Then back to slow and no power.
There's a trouble shooting section in the service manual that you need to look at. Just from the cobwebs I seem to remember that one pump does half the functions and the other pump does the other half. When you track the machine, it uses both. Seems like maybe electrical solenoids can be swapped between the pumps to rule them out. One of the Deere guys on here should be able to figure this one out easily.
Oliver182, you cannot have it both ways, slow could be anything, but pressure is power. If the pressures check out correctly, it HAS to have factory spec power no matter how slow it is. So, which is it? Or is the dealer not waiting for the problem to show up before doing his pressure checks, or are they just testing at the pump and not the arm cylinder lines? Not trying to be abrasive, just trying to understand. Cheers.
I hooked a guage into the arm cylinder line but had no way of knowing if the machine was malfunctioning since I couldn't tee into the line but rather had to cap it with the guage. I'm not sure what the dealer was doing, I talked to the tech briefly Friday afternoon and he said pressure checked out ok. I believe he was talking about the pilot control system though. He didn't get started on it till later Friday and I think it was quitting time when he called me. I do know when it was malfunctioning and machine was at idle you could hear a sound similar to when the cylinder would reach the end if it's stroke. Not the same but similar. When it finally got to the end of its stroke you could hear the engine pull down more and what I'm guessing is oil rushing over the relief. Check out the relief and it's new so not that. Really has me and dealer confused. Thanks for the help
Post your email.
Oliver182 I made a mistake it is made of the two haves . What is your email address?
I sent you a private message with my email. Thank you fir the help
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Maybe in the US but in the UK we're not allowed to fit parts just for the sake of it. We need to be 100% certain of what the fault is by following troubleshooting steps.
The more information the better mate. Has it got the old style dash( with the 2 analogue needle gauges) or a large LCD display? Is the arm roll in function slow, or weak/no power, or slow AND no power? How long does it take normal working before the arm starts to fault? Can you monitor the hyd temp to see if it faults around the same temp all the time? Have you removed and cut open the hyd filters for debri? When the fault occurs, is it apparent during a single arm roll in function or does it happen during a combined service ( Swing/ arm roll in or boom raise/arm roll in) Did the engineer replace the main relief valve or the arm circuit cylinder side overload relief valve? If it was the overload relief valve was it the one on the top or bottom of the control valve? The correct one should have been the top. If he suspected the overload to be at fault then he should have swapped the top one with the bottom and vice versa, it would have saved fitting a part that didn't solve the issue. Has he removed and checked the arm anti drift valve in the valve block? If this sticks, which is possible, when you roll the arm in it restricts the oil returning from the rod side of the cylinder causing a build up of pressure in the rod side, which means the arm will roll in slowly. It will show as having plenty of delivery pressure, it may even blow off on the relief when the arm is still moving because of the restriction. The other but less likely is the arm regenerative valve. This will normally show as a fault during a combined arm roll in and either boom raise/swing function. It only activates when the delivery pressure is low. Normally the symptoms of that is if you raise the boom at full speed and roll the arm in, the arm comes in but hesitates as it reaches the "tipping" point then moves again. Doesn't sound at all like your fault though. If i was you i'd be 100% certain the correct relief valves have been checked/ replaced, then identify, remove and check the arm anti drift valve. You can see the anti drift valve in your picture in the other post. Its located on the 5 spool section on the top near the rear of the block. Its held on by for allen head bolts and has a large hex type nut in the centre. Hope this helps mate.