Old storage trailer, probably 10 years without moving but it's got to take a 1000 mile trip so needs some tires. Got the LR outer off and inner says no way. Gave it a drink of secret sauce and quit for the day. Joe H
Gotta pull the nuts off. Need the square socket.
Budd wheels. Gotta love them. NOT! We have a special impact socket for those as do tire shops.
Those "wheel studs" are actually lug nuts over another wheel stud and have to be removed. You'll need the socket to fit them.
Nothing wrong with stud pilot. left hand thread, if stuck on hub use a tire bar through hand holds against drum to loosen or leave thimble nuts loose and remove jack and roll trailer forward and back to loosen.
Also knows as stud piloted. Have LH on road side and RH threads on curb side.
BTW--that's a Propar/Fruehauf axle just for info.
One good thing about Budds, no need for a jack to remove outer tire. Just pull inner up on a 2 x 6, remove outer nuts, and pull outer tire off.
I need a square socket to take those studs out ? If they're as tight as the nuts were I can see where that end just twists off. Socket available where, and what's it called ? Guess call the tire shop in the morning might be my best option as this point. Rolling the trailer isn't going to happen, I have no way to move it. Brakes are an unknown too, although plenty of lining I can see. Maybe the elves will come tonight and sort it out for me. Maybe not, can't depend on them, only the gremlins show up. Joe H
It has been a while since I've used it, but i think this is the socket I have; Amazon.com
I have seen a socket that cam in the tool boxes, nut socket one end and a square in the other and holes for a cheater bar. spose they are like rocking horse **** now.
Double End Truck Wrenches – Ken-Tool www.kentool.com
You can change the tire without removing the wheel.
13/16” square socket should be readily available on Amazon or ebay. Tire guy should have one on his truck if you hire the job out. I like the idea of popping the tire off and mounting a new one without removing the rim from the truck, but I have never tried that on an inside dual. Done it a few times on a front wheel. If you can get the wheel off, that would be seem to be easiest way to do the job.
If we are talking easy, call your tire guy. Might be less expensive than running all over the place trying to find a bud socket.
This thread would have been real entertaining if we would have let Joe beat on the back of that rim for an hour or so first. LOL (Like I did the very first time I saw that set-up.)
Plus changing a tire while wheel mounted on axle--depends on side wall and casing. The other is getting it seated even on the rim, rim should be off laying down on air up.
I had a guy change a front tire and he mounted it then seated the bead. I just did the same on one of my front tires with a can of ether. I really liked it and it can't go anywhere.
Can this be true: https://www.lowes.com/pd/STEELMAN-3-4-in-Drive-x-13-16-in-4-Point-Square-Budd-Impact-Socket/1002702724?user=shopping&feed=yes&srsltid=AfmBOorPTEGtFqw9G1yW26tEUL1GHC9qohqWRmGfmcETIcT3UJFR1eplLMI $12.97 and available through Lowes?? Only problem is it looks like a two week wait! Amazon shows this: https://www.amazon.com/JXHONG-Drive-13-16-4-Point/dp/B0CJTVPS6F/ref=sr_1_30?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.ex4MZUloRSCKCYMI1lJrV276d-DKs4X0d4kHUWz8tI0E0pAz5Yd3BBBn-iVX3NPWqgtApGuiWvmWDofq8ZSEIjbkXCULbkeNuEWoLVts8hGYeUFk9TxKdix1Z2d-qN1RtxQkyimbmU7aLCmZTmvVnieVEK62AlFENivxiDSt4Xk9DAlmiP1imQ9OfcO-lZ5pSFrh2EtiJq9uz5f24qx-By4e4QFcRPsfc7RiL6XWO5gme2SNfiFj1zRrB9H69z16aIOnXYH3WR6wX2TNhpT2YbPFAthOEZMTg7VawXDSri4.K_EOm56QmgPvZisEmg5G3QusuQZ_BuCkxLSTN_nTrfs&dib_tag=se&keywords=budd+wheel+socket&qid=1715000671&sr=8-30
Been years since I even saw a Budd wheel, but after doing some looking I see several different sizes so guess it would be important to measure the square of that "nut". Also would I be right to recall that the "nut" is stamped "R" or "L" to let you know which way to turn them.
OK, went and had a look, Elves were a no show as usual. Time to go see the tire store and then see what's next. And Vtech, it would be just as entertaining to hear about you cleaning up the grease from your LMSnail Joe H
Had to change the bud "widow-maker" rims on a '69 C60.... Bud 3/4" impact socket set from Harbor Fright. That LH - RH thread messed with my head for a bit.
Surprise Surprise, I had the socket in an old set of 3/4 drive. Now, are the left side studs backward thread on the inner thread too ? Joe H
IIRC they are.....
Yes if they are on the lug nuts. Good thing you didn't need a pork chop to hold the cap nuts on.
The center of the inner, IIRC called Budd cap nut, should be stamped with either a R or L.
Inner nuts are called thimbles.
I didn’t know that, learnsomethineveryday.
By the book--it's inner nuts, by tire shop/truck shop slang-it's thimbles.
Well those thimbles are not moving. Tried both direction and no joy. But left side is reverse thread, both inner and outer ? Who thought this was a good idea ? Joe H
Need a stronger impact and DON'T HEAT THE NUTS!!!!!!
Chrysler. I don't know when chrysler stopped the left hand thread on wheel studs, sometime in the '70's I guess.
Stud pilot goes back to the 20's on trucks/trailers. There is a method for ruffing up the thimbles when stuck--but I won't suggest it on here, an along side the road trick. Everyone would wind there underwear up tight. * Alright use a 3lb swatter and smack them from the side hitting on the square drive, not too much just a hate tap.
That's next, thought of it earlier but moved to the right side. They're coming off, there's some oil on the threads except 1 was a SOB. Turned out to be rust, but it came. As it wasn't the first I knew I was going the right direction so just laid on it til it gave. Spud, no impact. I'm using a torque multiplier - 3/4 impact is as big as I have and it sez no. Joe H
Don't over torque them on the way in, 450 I believe. I've pretty much have only handled buds and Dayton's, I like old trucks
There is something about the torsional repeat hits that really works... Earthquake XT 3/4 with 1/2" feed line.
An impact would go a long way, if one was available. The bigger the better . . .
Yes, they'll both be left, if the thimble was right hand thread and the nut was left, then the nut would loosen the thimble as it tightened. I've never had to, but I'd add a little heat, 200-250F, then spin a nut on and smack the nut around the flats to wiggle the thimble a bit. Sometimes a cheater pipe on a breaker bar works better than an impact. The impact might just need a bigger/shorter hose, more pressure. Try both directions.
I must work on old stuff cause near everything is Budd. Newest was a 96 or 97 L8000 log truck.
Did we ever get the wheel removed? I’ve lost track
Got 3 off, left inner I gave up on. Back to it later today. Next question, how do I get the caps off the axle? 2 are plastic and leaking, screwed on with some strange tool I don't have ? Other 2 are like this.
Righty tighty lefty loosey with the cap
With what magic tool? Whatever it is I no got.
Found some replacements on ebay for $10 so solved that one. Next stupid question, should I be worried about the brake actuator diaphragms ? Trailer tag sez 1984, long time for a rubber part. Joe H
Propar/Fruehauf oil hub cover 4 7/8" 8 sided stamped steel spindle nut socket. Fits cover & spindle nuts both. * Put air to the system and check the brakes.
I typically use manual tools and a 5' cheater pipe with a friend holding the 4 way up
Check for an axle vent too I had a trailer with a propar axle and the rubber plugs in the caps had slits for venting. There were no other holes in the axle One of the more experienced guys can tell you if that's correct or not