I never really need to use more than 3/8 for repairs. I've tried strapping buckets with 6" wide pieces. Used bridges and wedges but it didn't make much difference. Sill had to weld a bit, beat a bit. It doesn't seem to matter what I do, this stuff doesn't seem to want to bend. Is there anything else you can do besides get a bigger hammer, hotter rosebud, or longer pipe?
have you considered placing 6" wide pieces perpendicular to digging direction as opposed to parallel to digging direction? Wouldn't have to bend the T1 then.
Yeah Willie, I've used rows of wear plates around the curves. It's just some times I'd like to be able to bend it. Mild steel bends like Velveeta.
I think T1 is similar to our Bisalloy 80. Its the same to machine. Cat use it on bosses in the D9/D10 ripper frames. Its generally twice as hard to bend as mild steel. We use a lot of it in mining buckets. The main roll is Bisalloy and it forms OK with the right gear.Its used a lot in pressings as well.Normally make sure the grain is going the right way before pressing a 90 deg bend. I have a slab of 3 1/2 inch T1 in my shop as a bench. It was an offcut off the end of a ball mill roll. I had the curve milled flat
My brochure from USS lists T-1 type A, type B, T-1 with no suffix, T-1 type C. The brochure says to use USS Shield 400 and 450 for improved formability while maintaining the other properties (abrasion and impact). Looking at chemistry and the mechanical properties, it is likely the chemistry is altered and the heat treatment is accomplished so as to limit the maximum hardness compared to the T-1's listed above show no such limit, therefore helping with formability. * Thanks for asking this question - now when I fix something that requires bending I will know what to ask for....but I won't get my hopes up...since at the distributor the steel plate is laying on the asphalt with a marking pencil identification that may say 'T1' or it could say 'plow steel'....there is no reference to the original shipment and the marking pencil reliability as to accuracy could be in doubt, if you know what I mean. * I have always wanted to get a portable brinell hardness tester so I could do my own hardness testing to help me to make sure it is the correct material. I have seen those 'hit with a hammer' ones... Bisalloy hardness is around 225 Hb,while T-1 and shield 400 are all well into the 300's. Bisalloy seems like a nice material.
T1 was referred to as bridge steel when I first started out and we used it heavily for structures and wear plate on dozer blades and wheel loader buckets. I used Streich Bros. in Tacoma to roll press the plates for loader buckets. Make sure you let them know what the material is before sending a job that way. I'm sure there must be a bender in the north end also. You might give Wendal at HPF a call or contact PSM to see if they could give you some advise. On thick material for excavator buckets and dozer blades, heat and beat got too time consuming so we would cut it into bite size pieces and warm up the welder. The spray guns make that process the preferred method. Lately I've seen more AR plate used than T1. I haven't heard how it is to bend though or its cost compared to T1. Good Luck!
We have two grapples with jaws made of AR400. Some guy in Burlington or Darrington did the bending for the bucket manufacture- AWC, now defunct. We asked PSM to make AR400 jaws for the 2 PMS grapples we have. They did, but said they'd never do it again because it was too hard to machine. Wear plates come in "bite size pieces" like 4"x5". I've had good luck using those to "form" around a bend. We really needed 2 new digging buckets at the start of summer but the bosses didn't have the money. They were so thin you could see daylight through them and they were tearing apart at the corners. I did a lot of bodywork with a 12 lb sledge so I could get a flat surface to weld to. Then I scabbed t-1 plate and wear plates to them and they've been working all summer and holding up fine. Nothing like the work other guys here do but the price was right.
Hey, ain't a thing wrong with that work rob, the objective is to add a wear surface, it don't have to look like it came from a machine shop. BTW, what kind of teeth are those, sure as heck ain't side pin teeth.
They are Esco style top pins- 30S Funny thing is Willie, now they are all polished up by digging sand, they don't look half bad ...
I was thinking Hensley top pin but couldn't see enough of the profile. I love Esco Super V myself, expensive critters, but oh so easy to change them.