PO has replaced the alternator with a GM unit, it doesn't quite line up with the other pulleys, and the fan belt is shot. Read thru the operators manual, and it looks like an easy task to unbolt the hydraulic pump, slide it forward and change the belt - WRONG- had to cut the 3 suction hose sections, and managed to remove the hi pressure line and the two bolts holding the pump to the motor, but it will not move. I've always been cautioned not to put any pressure on the input shaft of the pump (driving on a coupling or whatever), so I'm afraid to do much hitting or prying. I've been able to find something about anything on this forum, so I'm sure one of you guys have run into this before, and can give me some advice. Thanx in advance, TheOldMan
Sounds like the drive coupling has not been maintained and is frozen. Two options come to mind... one, take the four bolts out that hold the adapter to the front engine pulley and pull it forward to remove the belt. That won't fix the issue with the coupling... Two, can you get a pry on the pump coupling on the adapter side?? Not many options here. The coupling on my 580B was completely frozen, except for the pump end. I had to replace the fan belt like you and ended up taking the whole adapter and all off and driving the shaft and coupling apart with a drift in a vise. That allowed me to clean it up and get it lubricated. HTH, Dave
Did you remove the front support? Looking at the parts manual, doesn't look like you can get at the bolts holding the drive adapter with the pump in place. Looks like only 4 bolts hold the front support to the engine, but I don't know if there is enough clearaace to remove it with the engine in place. How did you jack up the front of the engine? Don't think the oil pan will support that much weight, and I've got the loader bucket up on the holding brakcet, so be difficult to use a hoist. Maybe it's time to think about one of those link belts. Will I ruin the pump if I start trying to pry it away from the coupling?
Like I said I was able to remove the pump, but could not get the coupling and splined shaft out. So I was able to remove the four bolts on the adapter through the pump mounting hole. You cannot get to the front pulley on the engine? I believe that on my B I cold have gotten the bolts off by taking the side panels off of the radiator support and turning the engine to get to them one at a time... Would have been a pain though! Dave
I guess the next step is to either pull the radiator so I can see what I'm doing, or opt for the power twist belt. I wonder if the reccommended lube of the spine drive is facilitate future removal of the hyd pump, or if it will actually cause a problem if it is not lubed. I don't forsee the old C ever leaving the farm, so unless the pump fails, there probably isn't much chance of needing to pull the pump unless something drastic happens.
A method that has never failed me is to use an air chisel with a 1/2" blunt punch down against the spline area of the coupler and soak it with PB Blaster while vibrating the coupler. That has never failed to soften the rust and soon the pump will slide out of the coupler easily. On later series hoes I take the bolts out of the coupler and slide it ahead rather than moving the four bolt pump. The air chisel thing makes a bad job otherwise very tolerable. Mel
I thought about the air chisel, and I probably don't have a chisel long enough to reach down there, haven't used it in several years. I've decided to go for the power-twist belt. That way I don't take a chance of doing any damage to the pump, and if it has operated this many years w/o being lubed, chances are it'll last me as long as I have the hoe. PO said he had had it on the farm for 20 years, and the belt looks like it's that old, doubt if he ever replaced it, he never fixed anything else. Thank God he loved his grease gun, most of the pins and bushings are in pretty good shape. I do appreciate the help and suggestions you guys have given me. TheOldMan
TheOldMan, my only concern with mine was the fact the coupling system makes up for misalignment between the crank adapter and the pump. If it is locked hard it is putting stresses on the pump shaft. Once removed, it would be very difficult to get the pump perfectly aligned again. If it does not leak you are good to go, at least for a while.. HTH Dave
As I noted befoe, the PO said it had been on his farm for 20 years, and he never fixed anything else, so I doubt very much if he had the pump off, and the belt could certainly be 20 yrs old. I figure if it's lasted that long, it'll go a while longer. Need to move the alternator forward about 1/4" to align the belt, would have to remake the mount on the engine, bolt holes are too close to just slot the mount, and the alternator doesn't sound good (bad bearing?) so gonna take it to the rbldr today, and see if he can shim the pulley forward that far as he refurbishes it.