The Case 680E is leaking out the bottom of the transmission bell housing. Right under the ring gear . I’m guessing it the trans seal by the Torque converter ? How heavy is the Trans ? Can the seal be installed from outside ?
Is it hydraulic oil that is often used in the shuttle or is black like engine oil ? Have you been adding oil to the shuttle ? The transmission is the four speed gear box that uses 80/90 gear oil, and that oil has no way to get into the bell housing.
Ok it has to be the oil from the shuttle. I keep having to add hyd oil to the dip stick near the Petals in the middle hole . I though that be Trans oil but guessing I was wrong
So could it be the Torque converter leaking or the torque converter seal to suttle box? What has to come out To get to thoughs parts
There were changes in some of the 680E parts depending on your serial number. The pump seal, #28 in the parts book is the likely culprit. ----> https://partstore.casece.com/us/par...ad0c176a&sl=EN¤cy=#epc::mr59183ar709956 You have to remove the drive shaft, 4 speed gear box and the the shuttle. I would recommend that you take out the convertor and shuttle together. That will require unbolting the bell housing from the engine block. That is a good thing because you will be able to inspect the flex plate that bolts to the flywheel and torque convertor. Look for cracks in it. The bolts that hold your 4 speed transmission to the adapter plate are different lengths. Be certain they go back in the holes they came out of , or you will strip the threads on them when they bottom out in the blind holes of the adapter plate.
I’ve looked over the whole backhoe and could not find th S/N the alum plate that had it on it is worn to bare alum no words on it . Thank you I will be trying to pull this apart this weekend. About how much does the parts weigh shuttle box more or less then turbo 350 Chevy trans ? Is it a cast iron transmission by chance?
From the online parts book -----> https://partstore.casece.com/us/par...1c63c688&sl=EN¤cy=#epc::mr59183ar126928 the shuttle, convertor and bell housing are quite heavy. Been a long ,long time since I had a chevy transmission out of anything, but I would think the 680 assembly will be quite a bit heavier. the housings are cast iron.
Just to update I’ve pulled the driveshaft and 4 speeds transmission. If the weather holds out I will be pulling shuttle box out tomorrow.
Good Luck Rich !
The 680E here has a serial number plate on the main frame near the starter. Supported the rear of the engine from above while removing the flywheel housing. Shuttle weight was not a concern.
I almost got the shuttle out Battery in head light went dead. Was really surprised the TQ Converter looks brand new not a spot of rust on it and the seal looks to be in pretty good shape which was a letdown I was hoping to see it cracked so I knew for sure that’s where the leak was coming from. I’m guessing I’ll replace that seal and hope for the best this is a pain in the rear doing it on the driveway.
maybe the rear engine seal at this time as well.
I don’t think it’s the rear engine seal. I don’t have to add any engine oil just keep haven’t to dump a bunch of fluid in the shuttle. Just hoping it not a Internal issue pushing the fluid the out some how
After you removed the torque convertor is there any wobble in the input shaft bearing ?
Is there any moisture present there? Between the converter & the shuttle? OR maybe between the converter & the flywheel? Make sure you have a good look at all the welds for the flex plate nuts on the convertor & around the pilot spigot at the front. Cracks can happen there. You should see small trails radiating from any leak areas.
Sorry got busy with other stuff . The input side of shuttle is tight and seem good in all ways other then the dirt I got all over the splines taking it out. The Torque converter has about 10 to 15° of movement counterclockwise and clockwise also has a little movement up and down side to side I don’t know if it supposed to have a little movement or solidly fixed to the fly wheel. I’ll be pulling the Torque converter when I have time most likely next week The Fly wheel is exposed to the elements and is that dark rust color
Sounds like a broken flex plate. There should be zero rotational movement between the flywheel and torque convertor. I would strongly suggest that upon reassembly that you install the torque convertor in the shuttle before bolting it to the flex plate. There is almost zero chance of damaging the seal that way. Actually I would never separate the convertor from the shuttle when removing the assembly. Bolt a steel strap across the convertor to prevent it from falling out of the shuttle housing when you are jockeying it into final position. Cut the heads off of a couple of long bolts to be used as guide rods on the bell housing. The strap can be removed when the shuttle housing is securely on the guide bolts When you remove the convertor drain it and flush it with diesel fuel at least twice. It should have a drain plug in it to. You don't want any old oil left in it that can contaminate your new oil. Inspect the flywheel ring-gear for damaged teeth. This is the perfect time to replace it if it needs one.
Thank you. Your spot on I pulled the Converter and flex plate tonight the flexplate is cracked badly I’m thinking someone before me made their own and put it in there has washers behind the flex plate next to converter. I would have removed the converter with the shuttle shift if i understood how it was held in a first . Its weird the way it has a flex plate . Might cut a access hole so I can install the Converter in the shuttle shift then bolted up. Cause I can’t see the flex plate bolts till it starts to pull out of the Converter
on the Case site it say they dont have the flex plate anymore where are people getting them from now ? any links where i can buy one ? (also looking for flex plate from tq converter to flywheel for case 680e backhoe part number A14509 item number 45)
I think he means while you’re this close put a rear seal in it just to be safe. Out of all the rear seals I’ve put in over the years non of them were leaking just before they started leaking.
The flex plate part number in the online parts book was superseded to D87201. I buy all my Case parts from Dale Weiss. He is a human encyclopedia when it comes to anything made by Case. No one can beat his prices. Call or email him. http://e-backhoeparts.com/
I generally do all my own work but but there's a good shop here and I left my backhoe there ( maybe 8 or 10 yrs ago) while I went on a holiday.Told the owner to install a new rear engine seal and torc seal. One was leaking I can't remember which. Any way when I picked it up he had only done one and within a few wks. it was leaking worst then ever so he took it apart and replace the other at his expense. He wasn't to happy but I'd given him both seals & paid him good to replace both.
Thank you guys so much I’m going to give ebackhoe parts a call in the morning to order up the parts I might do the rear main seal as I got it all apart so far. But not sure yet
If you are going to remove the flywheel punch mark the crankshaft flange and flywheel before removal, it will maintain the factory balance of them. If you are working alone, bolt a bracket on the flex plate holes and use a lifting device. Those flywheels are so heavy you will never get it remounted without a severe safety risk.
Ok thank you I plan on removing the flywheel tonight and replacing the seal. The seal just came in mail today . Thinking I might drop the oil pan and reseal that as I’ll be so close to it
Thanks for the update. We always like to read the outcome on repairs that we offer help with. Way tooo often we never do in all the different forums.
Yea I try to update all the people that Helped me cause with out you guys It would have had a lot harder time trying to figured out the issues. It would have been months Hopefully the next guy that has the same issues this help. Just been Running behind on this. Chasing cows/ went back to school/ new baby / work/ then fixing the backhoe
You are one busy guy Rich ! I forgot to mention that if you do lift the flywheel like I described run the strap or chain up and in front of the hydraulic tank. It isn't a straight up lift on the flywheel but once you get it lined up with crankshaft flange you will be able to get it on. Use a long punch or something similar to insert through a bolt hole in the FW and crankshaft bolt hole.