There is a leak somewhere in the fuel injection pump. It drips at a rate of about 1 drop every 2 or 3 seconds when the engine is running. I've included a picture that shows what I think are 2 sections of the pump(labeled 1 and 2) and it appears to be leaking on the front and back side of the joint, assuming it is a joint, marked in blue. The parts book doesn't show it as 2 different sections so I guess it's possible that it's leaking from somewhere else or the housing is cracked. I removed and replaced the solenoid very recently and also removed and replaced the pump support bracket. I don't know if that could be related or not but it didn't leak before that. Any ideas on what to check and how to proceed form here? Should I remove the pump? Thanks, Doug
Probably the throttle shaft... I don't really know on something this new but PumpGuy will see your post and have a definitive answer
It's not uncommon for the fuel to leak in the area you have marked. Unfortunately, it's a take the pump off, & let the professionals handle it, type of repair. .... it's only money Doug......
Could be leaking BETWEEN 1&2.. 1 is the head & 2 is the main pump housing.. theres an oring between them. Very common problem. Its not something the layman can fix.. & the pump has to come off.. The pump & engine have to be timed before removal.. Does that engine have the PUSH timing pin under the pump?? I see in the pic the pump has a lock timing screw on IT.. Once the ENGINE is in time, the screw is loosened, the clamp removed {tie onto throttle} & the screw is screwed in against the pump drive shaft to keep the pump timed.. Then you go around to the front of the pump & remove the drive gear nut & use a puller to pop the gear off of the pump drive.. Hope this helps..TPG
Lol Yes, it's only money but I'm more concerned about my wife reminding me that she said it would be cheaper to rent a backhoe for a month or 2 every summer than buying one. I guess she's right as usual.
Thanks for the reply. Yes there is a PUSH timing pin under the pump. I've read through the service manual and am fairly certain that I can remove the pump without screwing anything up. I do have a few more questions though. 1) Does it make sense to have the pump rebuilt at the same time? There are about 5000 hours on the machine. I think that I will be putting on 300-500 hours a year, assuming it gets past the point of needing repairs every 5-10 hours. 2) Should I just buy a rebuilt pump? 3) If I did buy a rebuilt pump, would there be any issues with the timing? I noticed that I'm supposed to make a mark on the flange when removing the old pump. I assume that if I bought a rebuilt one there wouldn't be any marks to line up. Thanks, Doug
The pump comes back to you LOCKED..ITS TIMED & its up to you to unlock it AFTER its bolted up & the drive shaft nut is tightened.. When you rotate your engine until the pin goes into the hole.. the engine & pump are timed.. No need to make a mark unless you want to.. Its probably MUCH cheaper to get it rebuilt than buy a new one.. MUCH CHEAPER.. especially if "you know a guy".. wink, wink.. You'll play hell trying to get someone to "JUST" replace that oring.. Its off, so you may as well go thru it.. theres a lot of orings & seals in it.. Get the 10 digit Bosch P# & do your search using THAT #.. 0 460 426 *** OR call your local fuel shop & ask them what they would charge to O/H a Bosch VE pump.. average OUT THE DOOR cost.. THEN get back to me..
Thanks for getting back to me and for the information, it's very helpful. You're right that it makes sense to rebuild it since it's off the machine. I looked online and the cheapest rebuilt one I found is $895 from a place called Oregon Fuel Injection. I called 2 places I found in the area looking online, don't know anything about them. 1 place says a rebuild would cost around $700 and the other place said about $850. Thanks, Doug
Check your inbox.
I can't seem to get the locking pin to engage. I turned the engine over at least twice and nothing. According to the manual I just push in on the pin while turning the engine over. Am I doing something wrong, or is the pin defective? Doug
Got it. I took it off and removes the o-ring. It slides much better and it works now.
I sent you a reply, don't know if you got it.
A defective pin, Lol.. Its plastic & hard to move{dirt} What I do is.. Take a 90* scribe or a long screwdriver & pop out the retaining clip.. SEE if it still has the "nub" on the end of it.. the part of the pin that goes into the hole.. Remove the oring on the pin.. see if it will slide in & out NOW.. ALOT of times the nub is sheared off & still/stuck in the hole in the gear.. Let me know if THAT happened.. I have a cure..
Don't forget to pull the pin back out.!!!! or it WILL shear off.. Now the engine & pump are timed.. LOCK THE PUMP.. BEFORE removing the front nut.!!!
I got your reply..
Uh oh. I loosened the front nut and used the gear puller to loosen up the gear before locking the pump. How bad did I F it up?
Locking the pump helps keep the engine from turning.. AND keeps the pump in time.. It'll be fine, the pump will come back IN TIME.. Pull the pin out & make sure the engine hasn't turned much..{hole still in the window} It would just be impossible to put the pump back on IN TIME as it is now..unlocked.
OK, great. Thanks
Just wanted to make a post to say thanks to thepumpguysc . I had him rebuild my pump. He got to it faster than the local guys could and was a couple hundred dollars cheaper too. Turnaround was very fast too, once I sent it to him. Machine runs great now, starts up quicker and no leaks. Mike was also kind enough to answer a bunch of questions and help keep me from screwing up the installation, lol. Thanks, Doug
Thanks Doug.. appreciate that.. it was a pleasure doing business with you..