Woring on the 580C we just got, and making some progress, but the wiring is really chopped up. Trying to muddle through it from the parts and service manuals, but looks like the dash is going to be a complete replacement.The fiberglass box itself is badly weathered, so going to lay up a new layer of cloth on the outside, and modify it. Like to end up with something so everything in there is servicable without having to disassemble. I looked at the posting here that show the dash the genleman made out of plexi, and looks very good,but wonder just how many lights etc. I should try to include. The original instrument cluster had 4 lights in addition to the gauges. How many of these do you really need? Do you need a voltmeter and an alt light both? How about the hyd filter and air filter alerts. Only going to use the machine on the farm, won't normal maintence on filters suffice?
If the 580 is fitted with a red warning charge light ( the 1 that goes out when the engine is running, it will need this light working) any other light is up to you. tctractors
I like to have oil pressure, water temp, and an ammeter at a minimum. Tachs are nice. Idiot lights for high oil temp and so on will suffice...but on the balance I always prefer to have gauges (and really like gauges paired with a warning light to get your attention) vs. the lights alone.
Since I am also a new owner of a 580C, I have been reading your recent posts with great interest. It sure seems as though you have had quite an experience so far. I had DOT fears but was able to escape without any interest. Maybe the fact that the hoe was transported early Sunday morning worked in my favor. My 580C wiring is also a total mess; nothing electrical worked as it should. The starter was wired direct. I removed the instrument panel and the fiberglass box and cleaned it all. After studying the service manual, I think I understand the wiring. I know I need to replace the instrument solenoid and switch. So my plan is to rewire the machine to proper operation using the original instrument panel. Wish me luck. Since I work slow, this may take a few weeks. Please keep us informed on your progress. Thanks.
This fall I put a nice big oil press gage, a coolant temp gage and voltmeter in my 580 SL. Couldn't stand not knowing what the values were. The idiot lites all worked but they don't provide enough info. My 580 just gets used on my acreage so I don't worry much about air filter clogging or the hydraulic filters. Not enough hours go on them. Also ripped out all the wiring on my 1998 Kobelco SK130 excavator this spring (just bought it). It was a mess. Just wanted basic functions and the same basic gages went into it. Way simpler than the OEM wiring. Works like a damn now. All very straight forward. I have some other machines that are getting the same basic "3 gage" treatment.
How do you know what temp or pressure the warning lights need to be set for? I just got a Ford 655C and the only working instrument is the charge light. i found a nice set of 3 gauges oil pressure, oil temp and water temp all with warning lights. The warning lights are set for 6psi, 253 degrees and 232 degrees. I have no idea if these are in the ballpark for a Ford 268 engine. thanks
I am told some of these sensors (580SE Shuttle Oil Temp at least) works the gauge based on resistance. If you remove and short the wire to GROUND the gauge should go all the way to the top. So the sensor must work based on variable resistance. This week I am going to use an ohmmeter and try to evaluate this sensor that is not working maybe on mine. I plan to check the resistance cold, then maybe use a small bottle torch to warm it up a bit looking to see if the resistance changes. I need to change the shuttle fluid, but if this sensor is bad I want to order one before the fluid drain because I wonder if this sensor out drains fluid. ?? I think the sensors that operate just lights ane just simple closure to ground, vs the "variable resistance" for the gauges. Someone said the Oil Temp Gauge was never really calibrated correct from Case because the hand rarely goes up. IF SO, I wonder if some simple resistor in line with the wire would better calibrate this. I will know more after I get my meter on this.
Adding a resistor in line with a variable resistance type sensor may make the gauge read properly at one end of the gauge but the other end will not be right and every value in between will be off, so not the way to go. An easy way to check temp gauges without fancy instruments is to use boiling water. Will give you very accurate reference point at sea level and that point is where you want a temp gauge to be most accurate.
I haven't checked to see if any of the original gauges work, because the plexi in front of them is so fogged you can't read them, and so far almost every sensor on the machine is not hooked up. It does have and aftermaket oil pressure gauge screwed to the side of the instrument panel. Going to finish pulling the fiberglass box today. I'll keep you posted.
Today I shorted the wire at the sensor to ground and the gauge goes all the way to the top.. So, gauge AND wire are OK. At the sensor.. 6800 Ohms cold (about 55 degrees F) Then I heated the sensor somewhat and the resistance dropped to about 1400 ohms... So,.. I think mine is actually all working. Apparently it's just not easy to heat the oil shuttle temp up enough to see the gauge move working around the farm. I will soon change the oil. Put the thing in 4th gear, lock the parking brake and open the throttle wide open for 40 seconds, etc 2 or 3 times. I'll see if that rascal ever moves any then. I read that I need the oil very warm to drain it from the torque converter. That TC plug is hard to find up inside the flywheel housing, but from what I read, it's there.
I found the 580C tach cable attachment on the side of the engine block, but the cable has been cut off, and a rubber cap added at the cable to engine attachment. I've read on the forum that it is impossible to remove the tach drive from the block without ruining it, and a replacement is $90+. Without having the engine end of a tach cable, how can I tell if the drive gear and everything is there and working? The tach itself works with an electric drill, and I'd like to retain the original tach with my dash rebuild, but hate to pay $42 for a cable, then have to buy the drive too. Trying to make a decision between the original instrument and the TinyTach. Any advice on how to check this?
Look at this thread.. Is this the type of tachometer drive you have?
TheOldMan, any chance of a picture? If the cable is cut off, it should unscrew off the drive adaptor.... reason why it has been cut off it may be rusted in place maybe? If the drive unit is still good - you should be able to see it spinning when the engine is running. Bowen - 580C = different engine to your 580E - not all Case machines are the same as yours mate Appreciate your trying to help other members - but confusion WILL rein
Aiarman, the end of the tach cable that screws on the drive is still there, with a rubber cap pushed over it. I assume that is to keep water out and oil in. Rright now I'm waiting for parts to come in for the detent on the shuttle shift, so can't start the engine. I've been taking some pictures, but they're too large to post here, and haven't figure out how o downsize them. When I do, Ill post them.