D4G the trunnion cover is missing and I see the trunnion has turned 180 deg after running for about a hour. I'm sure my blade angle needs to be set correctly. What is the procedure and angle setting? Do I have to purchase and install the OEM cover or is there another option Thanks ahead
I think you the need cover but a pic. would show better what's missing.
There is a cover that keeps the trunnion from rotating What is the procedure for setting the blade angle?
Question: Is the arrowed pin bent.? If it is then it will require straightening before attempting any sort of adjustment.
It appears as though the eye assemblies at each end of the link should have different threads (one RH, one LH). Is that correct.? If so the assembly will need to be disassembled and adjusted so that each eye has an equal amount of thread showing, not the disparity that is there right now. Once that has been done, and the pin on the rear side straightened if necessary, you should be able to adjust the linkage.
I don't think anything is bent It appears to be welded at a short angle Looks like factory weld
In that case you need to look at the setting of the turnbuckle assembly for making the adjustment. See my post above.
It looks to me like a snap ring is missing on the left side trunnion. Edit: On closer look you can see the snap ring is bent inward in the 1st. pic. and looks like a line. It's almost disguised. You can clearly see the "eye" for snap ring pliers on the right side. Looking at the parts page Nige posted, it also appears the end on the blade side is upside down. The snap ring should be on the bottom unless it's just shown that way in the manual. The pin/mounting hole underneath the turnbuckle for the hyd. cylinder looks suspect too.
Both ends of the trunnion have snap rings on the too side In the Cat part drawing Nige sent it only shows 1 snap ring on each end if the trunnion Am i missing something? What looks wrong with the cylinder?
The attachments that Nige provided show that the missing cover is what is supposed to hold the link from turning. In regard to what angle to adjust it to, the attachments give an angle, but it is pretty much a matter of preference. On real firm ground where you are having difficulty cutting it is better with the blade pitched further forward. Conversely, in softer ground or for more carry/less cut you will want it pitched back a bit. You may find that it is a bit easier to grade with it back as well.
The pin through the cylinder looks like a C keeper should go there but it looks damaged and welded Thats my next project I guess if i grind the weld off i can pull the pin and replace it?
The parts listing likely shows 4 snap rings and the diagram doesn't show this detail. I don't know how easily the turnbuckle would turn by itself without the cover. The cover would help keep dirt off the threads. I'd guess the thread is a common size. Depending on how the blade is adjusted you might be able to use a jam nut to prevent to the turnbuckle from turning. Top links on a 3pt. hitch have about a 1/8" teardrop shaped plate to act as a jam nut. I only need to use it on implements that shake and vibrate a lot like a rototiller or a mower where it's loose to let the mower follow the ground. I can't see a dozer vibrating like that or the turnbuckle to have no weight on it.
I was thinking about jam nuts too. Its does not rotate much but I do see movement after working the dozer I just got this machine 2 weeks ago and im trying to correct anything that looks bad
Any way to determine the thread size and pitch from the parts list?
I lost my cover and got a new one from cat, not too bad but that’s been a while..
I'm not sure but if it comes apart take the std. threaded part to a bolt supply and match it that way. The other way is to measure it and use a thread pitch gage.
1 1/2” UNC