needing to clean radiator on my 941, it has been getting hotter than i think it should but not sure if would actually say it was overheating, the gauge gets up to about 1/4inch from the red mark and that is aslong as i have ran it, i checked it with a infrared and a instant read thermometer and it checked about 190-195 actual water temp.what would yall use as a flush and how would you go about doing it? the top of the radiator is pretty caked up hope the inside isnt that bad but no idea.
By the amount of rust in the neck the tubes could partially plugged w/ scale. If so about the only sure cure I know of is to remove the radiator and have it rodded. That much rust tells me it was ran for many yrs w/o enough or no antifreeze. Mike
That's cast iron right? So cast top and bottom? what's the core made of? With the way that's flaking off it looks like mineral build up with some oily crud on top? Fill it with rain water and dishwasher detergent and/or trisodium phosphate and run it till hot, drain immediately after you shut it off. Repeat until it comes much cleaner, then look and see if you need to use some kind of acid cleaner for the mineral deposits. If the tops of the cores are plugged, remove radiator hoses, run a garden hose in the top, air nozzle and rag stuffed in the bottom. Let it run until it over flows, give it a shot of water, repeat. 195 is no problem at all, assuming that's the temp of the engine. I'd be interested what the temps are for top and bottom tanks of the radiator, and the engine at the same time that it's as hot as you get it.
i took the top tank off today and around half of the tubes was clogged up, any ideas what can i use to rod it out with?
I used a strip of steel shipping strap cut narrow enough to fit comfortably thru the tubes. File the side you cut to eliminate sharp edges. Mike
ok, just roded all out but 3. started with the dipstick out of my truck and finished with the dozer dipstick. probly around 25 tubes that was stopped up on down inside and around half of them with crud plugging them up on the very top. on the 3 that i do like how hard can i poke them, im afraid to give them to much of a blow. the tank doesnt look bad other than the filler neck, and when i rebuilt the engine the water jackets that i could see didnt look to bad either.
The problem is you've got those three packed in tight. Try to run a water or air hose from one end and rod it from the other end to loosen the junk out a little at a time.
With that many tubes I don't think 3 will cause overheating. You probably already know this, but I'll say it should have 50% antifreeze year round. It will help prevent rust. If it will fit, a 3/32" torch welding rod might help clear the 3. Mike
Now clean out the oil coolers as they will be plugged as well. tctractors
did that when i rebuilt the engine, 40hrs ago.
When I was dealing with the same issues on my D6C a year ago, one of the old timers suggested the using the fuel tank level indicator dip stick to clean the plugged core channels. I used it & it worked excellent!
My old Allis has the same issue, runs hot if work hard but does not blow coolant, will cool as it sits a while idling so I know it is in the core, both in and outside need cleaned. After I get back on my feet.
When I was a kid my dad had an Allis Chalmers 7 loader with power shift & that thing ran hot right from new in warm weather. Not sure if it was the engine or torque.