I am trying to change the coolant on my JD 210c (diesel). I was able to drain the radiator but the coolant drain set screw in the engine block is rusted in. I stripped the head trying to get it out. I do not see any freeze plugs in the block. Can it be sucked out through the thermostat housing or some other way? I can't really get to that drain screw to drill it out, it's behind the frame rail. I was pondering using that freeze spray from locktite and pounding a metric or torx wrench into it. Putting heat on it makes me very nervous.
I could not drain mine so I added some flush chemical and filled it with water. I ran the thing only one hour then drained. What came out was powerful dirty so I had to refill/drain 4 times before the water cleared up. Finally adding the anti-freeze... This is not good as it can clog a new or clean radiator so draining/flushing the block as best possible is a good idea. IF you can remove the thermostat and use a water hose to flush the block it would be better than what I did. With the cold thermostat closed you can't get much water thru the engine. Some here will caution on the use of the radiator cleaners. I just know mine had a leaky radiator and stop leak had been used. I was glad to get all that junk out of my engine.
It's a bit hard to say what to do, cause we don't have a picture of the drain plug. First off would be to put some stuff on it to try and loosen the rust, apparently a acetone and ATF mix is the best http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350800 Give that some time to work. Depending on the situation you may be able to weld a bit of steel onto the plug and get it to move that way, if that works I would be inclined to weld a nut onto it to remove the so and so. If you can get a good weld onto the plug you can try and go the nut route straight up but it has to be a good weld, otherwise the nut will just break off the plug. Another advantage of welding something onto the drain plug is that it will heat the plug and help break the rust.
My experience with that plug is that it is just in tight. It is a pipe thread. Don't worry about the rust, other than to get some off so you can weld a nut to it. It will come out then.
Yair...Wild Bill. I am a big fan of the "weld a nut on it" technique as mentioned by Hendrik and DJ. If it is awkward to get at you may be able to cut the side out of a suitable sized nut with a hacksaw and slip it on from (say) the bottom. This will allow you to get a decent weld in from the top or from what ever is the best angle to get at. As Hendrik has mentioned this provides some concentrated heat into the plug which is half the battle. Best of luck. Cheers.
I would'nt risk stripping it, if you are changing to extended life coolant fill with water and run until the thermostat opens. Drain and repeat until clear, add coolant
Yeah that'll work, or take the thermostat out and stick a water hose in the top radiator hose. It is not critical to open the drain plug.
Flush it you will be better off and won't have to worry about the plug.
You guys - where's your sense for adventure and accomplishment?????? Conquering the plug dragon is better in the long-term.
It turns out I was trying to take out some ancient accessory hole plug. Someone had installed an antifreeze filter where the drain is and the picture in the manual had the plug in a different location. Why would you need an antifreeze filter anyways? Would there be any problems with using hard tap water to flush the radiator? I used distilled when I filled it.
Sounds like a cruel joke, hard water is fine for flushing.
Some Diesel engines require an anti-freeze filter .... it's not so much to filter but more to do with adding DCA to the system which is an additive to fight electrolosis in the block .... the cummins engines were common for using those ..... and if I remember correctly the old JD 8875 skid I had, had the filter added too, it was the three cyl turbo'd version (same engine the 540 farm tractor had as well as the older 310 back-hoes)