Since the stuck brakes are now fixed, we are moving on to repairing the Case Model 33 Backhoe which has alot of leaks in the valves under the tower controls. I smartly decided that removing the backhoe from the tractor was the only way to do this properly and without alot of charlie horses and fussing. After reading the shop manual, and analyzing the situation, I was frankly amazed at how easy it is to remove the backhoe. Honestly, there is less confusion than removing a small front-end bucket off a small Kabota. Here are some pictures: Pic of the rear of the backhoe before cleaning some of the oil/dirt/muk off: I had to put the tires back on so I could drive the tractor away from the backhoe. Then I used a 3/4" breaker bar with a long pipe attached to get the leverage needed to unscrew the two large nuts (I believe 1 7/8")on each side (only back them off about an inch). I used plenty of penetrating oil on all the pins and nuts/threads for a couple days before doing the removal. I was pretty shocked to read in the shop manual that these nuts require a torque setting of almost 600 foot pounds! I was thinking that they would be a royal pain to loosen, but they came off pretty easy. Pic of large nut that needs to be loosened: After these nuts are loose, you start the tractor and slowly ease the backhoe up just enough to take some pressure off the two large pins so you can tap them out with a hammer. I had to work the stabilizers up and down as the pins were being tapped out to reduce the friction/load on the pins. (Most pins have a circlip, but mine had holes drilled thru the pins with a small bolt holding it in place). Once the two pins are out, continue raising the stabilizers as you watch the bottom of the backhoe begin to raise up out of the large "U" shaped slots at the bottom. There is a large pin like this one on each side which then must be removed. Pic showing the "U" shaped slots at the bottom of the tractor hitch: Then make sure that the backhoe is raised high enough to allow the tractor to drive away. Be sure to then place a bunch of 6x6 blocks under the backhoe base so that it will be stable even if the stabilizers leak-down. The shop manual showed dismounting the backhoe in a "A" position, but I just left the backhoe in the fully extended position, which makes it easier for us to work on the cylinder joints. Here is a pic of the backhoe removed: You will drive the tractor forward only about a foot. Then shut-down the tractor and disconnect the two quick-disconnect hydraulic lines from the tractor. (Be sure to reconnect the supply line to the return line of the tractor before starting the tractor and driving off. If you do not connect these two lines, the hydraulic pump will be straining under enormous pressure with no relief, and I imagine that you could blow lines or ruin the hydraulic pump). Now we have MUCH easier access to all the lines/valves under the control tower: (out of pic space, so will post next)
Much better access to the backhoe for repairs: Much easier access to repair/paint the rear end of the poor ole tractor: I discovered alot of loose bolts/nuts due to the years of banging from the backhoe. Great time to add washers and tighten all these bolts. I also discovered toward the front of frame near the front-end loader, that some frame bolt heads have worn down into the metal frame......good time to remove them and add washers to prevent the bolt from working its way through the frame.
I have not yet received my Case Parts Book for the Model 33 backhoe, so can someone direct me to a source showing the O-rings and parts I will need to order? I read in another post that it is essential to order Case brand, as other after-market brands do not fit properly. In this picture, you can see that there is no yellow protective cap on one of the middle valve spindle tops. At first we thought it had fallen off and we should try to find a new cap. However, in the shop manual, it also shows this one without a top cap. Anyone know why a top cap is not supposed to be on this one? Any other good advice/tips before we remove this heavy valve assembly and begin a rebuild? Thanks. dwight
Here is the OEM Case online parts book. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr49912ag42690
Thanks Tinkerer......Im going to the site now.
Tinkerer.....that Case site is VERY hard to navigate. I could not find anything on the Case Backhoe Model 33. If you can direct me to how to find the backhoe control tower replacement ORings, etc., let me know.
Does Case make a Model 37 and Model 33 Backhoe? I marked all the hoses to the backhoe control valves and am ready to remove it: I found a tag on the right-hand side of the valve controls which shows a Model 37. I thought that this was a Model 33 backhoe.....do I need to order O-Rings and parts for a Model 37, or are they still the same parts? The picture of the copper tag is blurry, but it says "Mod C20-37, Pt. No. D39047, Ser. 98-111 (or 88-111), by Commercial Shearing & Stamping Co." I will need to order the rebuild O-Rings and parts, so would I be ordering for a Model 33 or a Model 37? Thanks.
Another foolproof way to mark hoses is to use colored zip ties. One on the hose and another on the fitting it connects to. Use one on each line, when you have used all the colors once put two on each line. They are solvent proof and fairly permanent.
Sorry, I missed this post. There is only a #33 Backhoe for the CK series. Here is a link to the parts book. http://partstore.casece.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr64163ag4305789 Go to the upper RH corner, there is a green bar, use it to expand the parts book to full screen. Choose a component and click on it. Use the browser backspace arrow to go back to the list. At the very bottom of the page you will see two little squares one is for looking at images of the components and the other is for viewing everything as a list. The control valve information starts at #190 thru #194.
Tinkerer........Hey, thats a smart idea using the colored zip ties......marked probably permanetly for several years, and wont wash off like the black marker on white duck tape. I will give that a try, as it would suck to have the marks wash off by the hyd. fluid or rain.
Tinkerer....thanks for the info....only a #33 backhoe. I wonder why they stamped on it "Model 37". Thand for the detailed info on using the site....I had missed those small buttons on the bottom of the screen....clicking them is a big help.
Another thing when using the online parts book, enlarge the part image as much as you want so you can see it in more detail. Put you curser on the image and hold your left mouse button down and you can shift the image so you can see everything no matter how much it is enlarged.
Tinkerer......thats a big 10-4 from my backdoor....making the image larger, and sliding it around. I started writing down part numbers for all the ORings and gaskets, and it does take alot of time to go thru it all and get the right numbers down. It seems that Case would just make a complete ORing/gasket kit to rebuild the entire valve assembly.....but maybe that would be too easy on us.
Update on rebuild of the backhoe valve assembly: I removed that HEAVY assembly from the backhoe, and I am telling you......I would not want it to be just one ounce heavier. I took all of my backbone to heave that heavy greasey sucker up onto the saw-horse work bench. What is the weight on that puppy? Around 125 lbs? Hear are some pics after scraping and cleaning with diesel fuel. This pic shows the lower right hand badge that shows "Model 37". Did Case ever make a model 37, or is this still the Model 33? I would like to make sure that I order the right O-Rings and gaskets. What do the experts here say? In this pic you see that the second from the right upper valve appears to be missing a solid cap like the other 3 have. What is this one for, as the shop manual seems to show it missing also? Wouldnt it be better to have a cover over it?
Any good tips/advice on doing this rebuild? Is there already a good thread with alot of pics showing a rebuild?
When you take the sections apart take pictures and take note of exactly how everything came apart. Especially the orings and seals. Some of the seals may look like miniature wheel bearing seals and have a cupped seal.
Tinkerer.......there were no leaks between each section, so I was just planning on pulling out the components from the top/bottom on each one.....mainly checking for dirt, cleaning, and putting new ORings/gaskets in there. Dont you think this is reasonable instead of pulling apart the entire set of 8 valve components? OK....I will inspect well, and be sure I get the right "cupped" seal in the right places. There are drain plugs on each side of this big assembly......are these used to help bleed the system when I re-install it? Or do I just put it back on dry, and let the tractor pump the fluid into it, removing the air in the process? Do I "try" to pour hydraulic fluid into the hoses before screwing them back in place? Im also trying to wire brush/sand/paint up the rear-end while the hoe is off:
I wasn't sure what you were up to as in regards to the dis-assembly of the valve bank. No need to take the sections apart unless there is a specific problem with one of them , such as replacement of one of them. Don't bother making more of a job out of a simple resealing of the spools tahn you need to. If the all the valves worked ok, just replace the seals and O rings. When you are done just reconnect everything and start the engine. You don't need to prime the valve bank. Keep an eye on the hydraulic oil tank and keep it full. Be sure and exercise the all the cylinders when you get it running and keep it full of oil.
Nice work, good thread. For parts and advice, I highly recommend talking to Dale at Tractorstuff in Indiana. I got nearly all the parts for my machine from him, and he really knows his stuff. He may be able to answer the 33/37 question.
Tinkerer......Good, Im glad you agree that its ok not to take the entire valve bank apart, but just putting new orings/seals/washers in each of the 6 inner banks should be fine. Thanks for the info about not needing to prime the system, but just running the engine/pump and working the cylinders will bleed it. I was going through the Parts Book for the Model 33 and see that it does take quite a few different ORing/seal sizes, that each valve bank may be different from the one beside it. Valve No. 4 is the most interesting as it has 3 upper and lower chambers. It is the one that looks like it is missing the "cap" like the others have. This "missing cap" is an adjusting needle. Im still not sure why this one has it, but the others do not.....but that may start to answer itself as I keep tinkering with it. Maybe that is an adjustment to reduce the speed that the dipper can drop to the ground? Valve Bank No. 4: In this pic you can see that it "looks like" it is missing the metal cap, but thats just the way they come from the factory.
CasIns.....Hey, thanks.....This is my first major effort at rejuvenating an old Case Backhoe, and Im trying to do a decent job.....and maybe these threads and pics will help the next guy who tackles the same job. I must admit that it is enjoyable to repair and bring back to life an old relic like this.....and hopefully she will be running for another 50 years. 10-4 on TractorStuff.....I will contact him after I get my entire list of supplies together.
Some before/after paint work pics: Alot of work, but she is looking MUCH better.
So simple I LOVE IT! I never thought of this.
After a few days of pounding pins out I am at the point that I have the hoe off and drove the tractor forward a few feet. I saw in the posting above mentioned to complete the circuit by connecting the quick disconnects. I know I have a 680 c ck not a 580 so it will be a little different. There is (3) supply/return lines going to hoe, all different sizes. I looked in the parts manual and saw that there is 1 return line and 2 supply lines. I'm struggling to find the right fittings to connect hoses so the tractor will still be functional while I restore the hoe. also there are 3 lines so 1 will be left out? I should also mention that the hoe is always live and the loader bucket is always live. the last owner must have done something because the lever to change from loader to hoe is broke. Any input would be much appreciated. I will include a few pictures to help with a visual.
That lever is the the throttle control, pull it up to set the speed you want the engine to run when operating the backhoe. IF it is hooked up to the fuel injection pump. The light bulb next to it is the coolant over heating warning. When it works. Did you loosen the big nuts on the clevis that is attached to the lower mounting pins ? If you didn't it is amazing you were able to get any of the four mounting pins out. The big oil supply (pressure) hose needs to be hooked up to the hose that returns to the hydraulic tank. Before you take the hoe off. I sometimes leave them connected if I only need to get the tractor away from the hoe for more room to work.
ahhhh ok so its not to swap it but just a remote throttle control got it! ya to get bottom pins out i took out the bolt that had the washer that locked bottom pins in. to do top I loosened bug nut. Eventually I got smart and used a bottle jack to jack up rear of tractor to release pressure off bottom pins. ok so i hook large oil supply to tank return line. do I just cap the line going to what looks like (valve) loader control? I will include pictures of pages I'm working from. you should be able to zoom in there good pics. I cant thank you enough for taking the time to respond to me so many times!!!!
I can't really tell from those pages. Put a floor jack under the base of the boom. Use it and the stabilizers to tilt, raise and lower the back hoe assembly to facilitate the pin removal. Block the hoe backhoe frame up securely. The stabilizer cylinders will bleed off and the backhoe will tip over. It can kill you or someone else in an instant !! I watched one go over once and believe me it happens fast. Back off those big nuts on the clevis a lot when you remount the hoe. It takes lot of wriggling to the pins back in.
IIRC that 3rd hose doesn’t need to be hooked to anything as long as you don’t move the control lever it is associated with.
so after you told me the third small hose I looked further into the loader control in parts manual and you are right it shows that spool calm. I will just unhook that one small line to see if it spits out oil. I will include pictures of hoe support/block job I did.
Looks good DnD ! I prefer an engine hoist with a chain at the boom and dipper junction It is a little safer than the bottle jack that is under your boom. I never put a bottle jack under anything that is not level. There is always a chance it could slip out from under anything that is on an incline.
soooooo... that is a no go, I got a JIC 1" 1/4 to 1" male/male reducing coupling and left loader control supply uncapped while connecting pump supply to tank return. It pissed everywhere so I tried capping loader control just for a second and it had immediate back pressure that grew. I called my local shop to send them on the hunt for a JIC Y 1"1/4 female to 1" male an 3/4" male. I know they will find it but I'm sure it will cost a couple few hundred. SMH
It may be cheaper and faster to just have two hoses made up long enough to reconnect the backhoe to the pump and tank return. You will have full functions for the backhoe as a bonus. I never bought or needed those fittings you are referring to.
FWIW my 680 is a twin to yours in every way. Although the Y fitting is no longer available a substitute could do the same thing. There is no pressure on it, so you could use a regular ol pipe fitting from a hardware store. The L19599 swivel and the other fittings are readily available from hydraulic supply vendors. Discount Hydraulic Supply is one of my favorites. From the service manual---------------------------------------------------------------
got it! Thank you again!!!!!!! I read so many threads but there is very mixed thoughts and now I'm more confused, What do you use TINKERER for fluid in hydraulic tank? some say hyd/tran some say mobil 424 I think you had mentioned traveler ISO aw32 but think it was in relation to a dozer.
I have run mine hard for many years with AW32 (SAE 10W). That grade because of the cold winters we have in IL. A local farm supply store has their own house brand that meets Case specs. $50.00 for 5 gallons tax included. Tractor Supply sells a premium hydraulic oil, 10W-30 that I would use if they had a store closer to me than the one 30 miles from away. Do not use anything that does not meet Case or John Deere specs. You don't need expensive oil with anti chatter additives. IMHO.
Mission complete! Thanks for all the help!!!!! Next up tune up, just have to wait for hydraulic tank return side filter (coming Wednesday)
I"m curious as to what your hydraulic tank looks like. According to the serial number you gave me it is the one in the image. If it is be sure to clean the screen in the bottom of the tank. This is one of those differences in the same model machine but there are small changes in the configuration as the production years progressed. This tank is one of them. The tank in my later mfg'ed 680 is nothing like this one. If you remember I mentioned there are 3 different parts books that are serial number specific. Changing the hydraulic oil in the tank is only about half of what is in the entire system.
That is exactly it! I pulled it all out the other day and have the big filter on order. I expect filter this Wednesday. So the screen you are referring to is Item # 11 in the above diagram? Any tips to make sure I drain 100% of the fluid? It just says to pop out plug coming off return side of tank. I will include a picture
Yes, Steve. #11 is the screen. If the oil you are draining doesn't look milky or contaminated follow the instructions in your book. If the oil is nasty, you need to do a detailed and time consuming flush of the entire hydraulic system. You got a really good price on the hydraulic oil !
so I'm ordering repack kits for hoe cylinders and gave the case dealer the model and serial of hoe. They wrote back confused saying that it was supposed to be a model 34 hoe but the plate says 36 any thoughts?
It is a #36 backhoe you have. Do not look at the #36 in the Backhoe online parts book. That one is for tracked machines. It has a different mounting frame because it is adapted to the crawlers. Your 680 service manual should have all the backhoe info. in it. If it doesn't you can find everything in the on-line parts book.
Ok so i'll tell the dealer that it is a #36 THANKS
You really should look at aftermarket seal kits. The last one I bought from CNH was over $140.00. Never again ! I could have had a hydraulic shop reseal it for almost that much. Here is a link to your backhoe parts book. https://www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/c...E-E111-9FCE-005056875BD6_35_HYDRAULIC_SYSTEMS
Thanks!!!! quick question? I really cleaned up the hoe been working on just that for a week. I found there was a gap in swing cylinders where they bolt in. screws are loose too. could this have caused the side to side swing when driving? not sure if you can see gap from pic but I will include it
so I found the HW store? they just do seal kits. everheard of them? any good? I have a OEM seal kit you think anyone needs it? or do you? G109494
That gap is normal on all 680's. I cut shims(plates) from flat stock and ground them down to fill the gap. Your side to side slop is either worn out bushings in the cylinders and/or worn rod eye bushings and pins. The bolts that hold the trunnions will never stay tight unless you take everything and meticulisly lean the threads and use blue loctite on them. Grade 5 bolts are used. The only place I buy seals it is from Dale Wiess at tractorstuff. http://e-backhoeparts.com/ Thanks for the offer but that kit won't fit my BH boom cylinder. Go to post #30 and you will see what kind of problem the swing cylinders can create. HeavyEquipmentForums
OK it all makes alot more sense now! so would I need (2) or (4) of item #29 in post 30? well keep your eyes out for someone who needs OEM case 580 boom repack. not looking for money just want to bless someone now that I know how much they cost from case. Ill get #29 and #3 from post 30 and if there is still play then Ill replace the piston eye bushings. Your idea of zip ties worked sooooo well! I just finished marking hoe up with them. Thanks again!
If you can cut them in half and use them you only need two. The shop that welded the trunnions would not cut them. I had to go to CNH and buy the OEM's. Nearly $100.00 each because there are very few in their inventory. That is a real problem when they carry any parts in their inventory 47 years. I was happy they even had them. At least I eliminated the slop in the swing of the boom.
yah it appears that they dont have any!!! I will call tomorrow