i am in the middle of setting a few culverts for a guy to make some creek crossings, and was wondering how you guys set them and start packing them. i do not have a plate compactor, so i have been packing with my bucket (tryin not to hammer it much). after i get above the pipe a foot or two, then i can track across it. i have been packing it all then adding 4-5 inches of fill then packing again. the reason i ask... we are goin to add onto a pipe coming out of a dam to extend it, but there is more water running along side of the existing pipe than is running through it. did they not pack it good enough when they put it in? i guess i thought i was doing it all ok, and had no worries, until i saw one put in by a different company that was washing out. now i am second guessing myself. thanks
The size of the pipe, and if it's "squashed" pipe, helps determine the best method of backfill. The type of fill you are using also helps determine the method. As a general rule I do not use "bucket compaction" if I am trying to achieve real compaction.
Take a close look at the pipe is the bottom rusted out or did they not put any antiseap collars on when they instaled it. If it is running around the pipe dont waste your time extending it until you have fixed the problem. I would excavate around the old pipe and figure out what the problem is then you may have to cut the dam and lower the water level so you can repair the problem 10 or more bags of bentonite is always a good idea when repairing a pond pipe. As for compacation I have replaced many and never used a plate compactor not that it wouldnt be a bad idea. I have rented a jumping jack on a few very crutial repairs, and it worked great it also makes the beer taste a lot better come quiting time, the top 1/3 of the pipe is the most important. I usualy use the hoe and track along side the pipe while adding a few tenths of fill at a time if the pipe grade is cut very close I wouldnt be afraid to track across a pipe after it has 1/2 foot of cover depending on the type of pipe. We use a lot of 10-16'' welded steel pipe with 1/4 to 3/8 wall thickness on pond pipes around here it will take a real beeting and you wont be able to hurt it unless you get crazy with it.
actually, the lower 1/3- 1/2 is the most important if you're talking about strength of the pipe. if you have your bedding proper in the lower quadrants of the pipe, it creates literally it's own structure....
well i guess i should say that the culvert i am installing is a 36" diameter steel corrigated pipe. it seems that if i pack it too much on the bottom half it floats the pipe up and off of grade. soooo... i have been filling in just a few inches at a time and packing it w/ the bucket till i can drive across it. we also decided that the outlet from the dam will remain untouched as it is owned by someone else, we just moved our crossing there downstream about 100 feet and left well enough alone. thanks for the input so far! :drinkup